Discussion
First of all I would like to thank all you guys for sharing your experience!
Very very helpful in order to try to get most of it right from the beginning, as 7 TVR has pointed out!
Taking into account the different opinions regarding the diff ratio the plan is now to purchase another diff with 3.08 but keep the 3.45, so that I can swap and find out what I like best.
Right now I tend to go with the 3.08 for being able to use first better and have an ideal gearing for a topspeed of around 180 mph at 6200 rpm. I know this might sound a bit daring in a Chim and I do not intend to make much use of it. But being in germany and having the opportunity, there sometimes is the temptation to just "go for it", even if it's only for a short period of time. I'm sure you know what I mean!
On the other hand the 3.45 per jellys recommendation would mean instant acceleration without even bothering to change down...
All good stuff for thinking...
@jellison:
Jon, I very much appreciate your offer on advice and pictures! As soon as the real work begins (Feb/Mar) I'm sure I'm going to need it!
Stefan
Very very helpful in order to try to get most of it right from the beginning, as 7 TVR has pointed out!
Taking into account the different opinions regarding the diff ratio the plan is now to purchase another diff with 3.08 but keep the 3.45, so that I can swap and find out what I like best.
Right now I tend to go with the 3.08 for being able to use first better and have an ideal gearing for a topspeed of around 180 mph at 6200 rpm. I know this might sound a bit daring in a Chim and I do not intend to make much use of it. But being in germany and having the opportunity, there sometimes is the temptation to just "go for it", even if it's only for a short period of time. I'm sure you know what I mean!
On the other hand the 3.45 per jellys recommendation would mean instant acceleration without even bothering to change down...
All good stuff for thinking...
@jellison:
Jon, I very much appreciate your offer on advice and pictures! As soon as the real work begins (Feb/Mar) I'm sure I'm going to need it!
Stefan
Anytime Stefan.
I used to have my shift light set at 5800 whict was 151mph. It used to get there so fast it was just mental, any dual carriage way / may (only when I was in Germany obviously), sensible point to back of and take stock! Think the most I had out of it was just over 160 and it was still pulling like a made thing.
What is the redline in an LS3 (6500 in the 6).
I don't have to worry about redline with my new one (supposedly fine to over 8, but will us high 6's to 7k at redline).
You do know there is another Chim in Germany with and LS in it?
I helped a German chap (Rainer) get all the parts he needed for the conversion (copy of mine) - he flew over from Lichtenstein to have a go in it (!). I ordered everything he needed for the drivetrain and ship straight to him (think back in 2006). Was getting the same brakes as mine, and some big flash rim and tyre combo. Not sure if he ever finished it! Contact details if you want
Rainers LS6 (one of the last new one we could find) before shipping.
I used to have my shift light set at 5800 whict was 151mph. It used to get there so fast it was just mental, any dual carriage way / may (only when I was in Germany obviously), sensible point to back of and take stock! Think the most I had out of it was just over 160 and it was still pulling like a made thing.
What is the redline in an LS3 (6500 in the 6).
I don't have to worry about redline with my new one (supposedly fine to over 8, but will us high 6's to 7k at redline).
You do know there is another Chim in Germany with and LS in it?
I helped a German chap (Rainer) get all the parts he needed for the conversion (copy of mine) - he flew over from Lichtenstein to have a go in it (!). I ordered everything he needed for the drivetrain and ship straight to him (think back in 2006). Was getting the same brakes as mine, and some big flash rim and tyre combo. Not sure if he ever finished it! Contact details if you want
Rainers LS6 (one of the last new one we could find) before shipping.
Jon,
love those pics!
Never heard of a Rainer with LS Engine over here though.
LS3 redline is 6500, giving 169 mph on the 3.45 diff. Definitely fast, no doubt, but not (apart from acceleration) that much faster than the 160 (on GPS) in does now with the stock 5 ltr.
So topspeed-wise, the 3.08 would be just perfect and, to be honest, it's difficult for me to imagine the acceleration with this setup being slow, considering the amount of power available from the LS3.
As already said, I might end up testing both in order to find out the best for me. Very sad that the T56 6-speed doesn't seem to fit in the Chim chassis, which of course would be the perfect solution.
Stefan
love those pics!
Never heard of a Rainer with LS Engine over here though.
LS3 redline is 6500, giving 169 mph on the 3.45 diff. Definitely fast, no doubt, but not (apart from acceleration) that much faster than the 160 (on GPS) in does now with the stock 5 ltr.
So topspeed-wise, the 3.08 would be just perfect and, to be honest, it's difficult for me to imagine the acceleration with this setup being slow, considering the amount of power available from the LS3.
As already said, I might end up testing both in order to find out the best for me. Very sad that the T56 6-speed doesn't seem to fit in the Chim chassis, which of course would be the perfect solution.
Stefan
I think even if the t56 would have fitted it really is just pushing the weight to far vs the v.light t5 and the heavier (but ok) tko.
Mine ended up about 50kg more that with the RV8 (1080 vs 1130), ok for 1.5x the power of the stoke 500,(needed the suspension mods though), way more chuckable and planted once all setup even with the extra weight (most of it was in the middle of the wheelbase though.
Mine ended up about 50kg more that with the RV8 (1080 vs 1130), ok for 1.5x the power of the stoke 500,(needed the suspension mods though), way more chuckable and planted once all setup even with the extra weight (most of it was in the middle of the wheelbase though.
flyingdutchie said:
Jellison, I am interested to know what alternator/bracket/tensioner/belt you are using on the ls1 engine i see in the pictures. I do have a solution at the moment, but it doesn't stop squeeling when cold and revving up. I do have an airconpump on the other side.
drop me a PM.Basically had the original high and right bracket modified to allow Exhaust through (I went forward). If you are not going forwardyou might be able to just order a new one of these brackets with no mods. Or have out on a Rose-jointed support ala HotRodLanes type stuff.
Christian,
though I hoped to have the conversion finished by now, we needed much more time than expected to make sure the conversion is street legal with the TUV here in Germany.
However, the engine is now ordered through an engine builder living nearby, who has specialized in providing stand alone LS engines for Cobra replicas and the like. Final specification is now a brand-new 6.0 ltr LS2 with the 28x reluctor, aftermarket cam and an output of around 450 hp, though I'm afraid we will lose a bit due to the limited room for the headers in the Chim. Transmission, as already mentioned, will be the TKO600 with the short 5th. As I still couldn't make up my mind on the final drive ratio, I'm going to keep the 3.45 initially to see how things work out.
One good thing was that I could use the waiting time for further planning on the conversion, having received valuable advice from jellison and having read "The complete swap manual" by Joseph Potak, which also clarified a lot of things I was able to adress before the work starts.
So, as the delivery of my new engine is planned in 3 weeks from now, I hope to be back with an update in the second half of May.
Cheers,
Stefan
though I hoped to have the conversion finished by now, we needed much more time than expected to make sure the conversion is street legal with the TUV here in Germany.
However, the engine is now ordered through an engine builder living nearby, who has specialized in providing stand alone LS engines for Cobra replicas and the like. Final specification is now a brand-new 6.0 ltr LS2 with the 28x reluctor, aftermarket cam and an output of around 450 hp, though I'm afraid we will lose a bit due to the limited room for the headers in the Chim. Transmission, as already mentioned, will be the TKO600 with the short 5th. As I still couldn't make up my mind on the final drive ratio, I'm going to keep the 3.45 initially to see how things work out.
One good thing was that I could use the waiting time for further planning on the conversion, having received valuable advice from jellison and having read "The complete swap manual" by Joseph Potak, which also clarified a lot of things I was able to adress before the work starts.
So, as the delivery of my new engine is planned in 3 weeks from now, I hope to be back with an update in the second half of May.
Cheers,
Stefan
We also went for the uprated driveshafts i don't know what make they are Warren gets them made to order we have also got a diff change looming because 1. the MPG is not great 2. we would like to cruise at 70-90 and have lower revs and lastly overtaking in the lower gears is quite a lottery as you don't know if its going to spin up we have been in 3rd at 60 go to put your foot down only to be met with suitable amounts of opposite lock needed rather quickly.
packman10_4 said:
We also went for the uprated driveshafts i don't know what make they are Warren gets them made to order we have also got a diff change looming because 1. the MPG is not great 2. we would like to cruise at 70-90 and have lower revs and lastly overtaking in the lower gears is quite a lottery as you don't know if its going to spin up we have been in 3rd at 60 go to put your foot down only to be met with suitable amounts of opposite lock needed rather quickly.
Warren put a BTR coned diff in mine, still not decided if i want to change ratio's, but yes well pleased i went for the up rated driveshafts!Gentlemen,
as my new engine is going to be delivered next week, I would like to pick your brains on the layout of the exhaust system. As I learned a few days ago, my LS2 engine will be delivered with LS3 heads and a comp cam, with around 450+ bhp.
The options I'm considering right now are
1. Forward running headers followed by two cats each followed by two pipes which run down in front of the engine and then separately to the end, with a X-pipe (or H-pipe) somewhere in between
2. same as 1., but with the pipes joining soon after the cats and a split to dual pipes again at around the middle of the car
3. Downrunning modified LS7 manifolds like Christian (7TVR) in his Griffith, but I'm not sure if there is enough room for cats between the manifolds and the ACT cherry bombs which I like to keep
What would be your suggestions?
I'm sorry if all this sound a bit complicated, I'm just trying to get it as good as possible from the beginning.
Cheers,
Stefan
as my new engine is going to be delivered next week, I would like to pick your brains on the layout of the exhaust system. As I learned a few days ago, my LS2 engine will be delivered with LS3 heads and a comp cam, with around 450+ bhp.
The options I'm considering right now are
1. Forward running headers followed by two cats each followed by two pipes which run down in front of the engine and then separately to the end, with a X-pipe (or H-pipe) somewhere in between
2. same as 1., but with the pipes joining soon after the cats and a split to dual pipes again at around the middle of the car
3. Downrunning modified LS7 manifolds like Christian (7TVR) in his Griffith, but I'm not sure if there is enough room for cats between the manifolds and the ACT cherry bombs which I like to keep
What would be your suggestions?
I'm sorry if all this sound a bit complicated, I'm just trying to get it as good as possible from the beginning.
Cheers,
Stefan
Stefan, is there any particular reason you want to keep the cats, you will find they are a major heat trap creating allot of heat soak!
The LS3 definitely gave me higher under bonnet temps, hence the vented bonnet and opened up front end!
Allot of people said my downward modified LS7 headers would not work! Not enough room, to tight an angle etc. Brian's got spoons down at topcats for the humble pie eaters!
Honestly i wanted to run them forward at first like the RV8 headers, but equal length pipes seemed a better option and enabled us to use the extra forward engine bay space to mount the Acusump low down! I also think it looks very tidy!
I have camcoated the headers inside and out and used heat tape on the chassis rails to try and control temps in tight spaces!
Not sure if there is a right or wrong way, just think it comes down to personal choice and what you have to work with!
Warren did say getting the LS in the Griff was harder than all the other tvr conversions they have done due to space restrictions!
I guess the only way you could find out which method works best would be to run both set ups on the same engine and see which gave a better return!
There is also the point of cost as i was quoted crazy money for bespoke headers as opposed to the relatively cheap modified LS7 Jobies !
PM me if you want some build pictures showing the headers at different stages of the build and gap to chassis rails?
Good luck and hope to see some pictures soon
The LS3 definitely gave me higher under bonnet temps, hence the vented bonnet and opened up front end!
Allot of people said my downward modified LS7 headers would not work! Not enough room, to tight an angle etc. Brian's got spoons down at topcats for the humble pie eaters!
Honestly i wanted to run them forward at first like the RV8 headers, but equal length pipes seemed a better option and enabled us to use the extra forward engine bay space to mount the Acusump low down! I also think it looks very tidy!
I have camcoated the headers inside and out and used heat tape on the chassis rails to try and control temps in tight spaces!
Not sure if there is a right or wrong way, just think it comes down to personal choice and what you have to work with!
Warren did say getting the LS in the Griff was harder than all the other tvr conversions they have done due to space restrictions!
I guess the only way you could find out which method works best would be to run both set ups on the same engine and see which gave a better return!
There is also the point of cost as i was quoted crazy money for bespoke headers as opposed to the relatively cheap modified LS7 Jobies !
PM me if you want some build pictures showing the headers at different stages of the build and gap to chassis rails?
Good luck and hope to see some pictures soon
@eff eff
This seems to be the configuration used for several conversions. Is the Y-piece and single pipe to the mufflers layout just for convenience or does it make no big difference power-wise in comparison to dual pipe layout? I was under the impression that dual pipes from front to end with X-pipe in between is the preferred setup for minimum power loss.
What are the experiences on here?
Cheers,
Stefan
This seems to be the configuration used for several conversions. Is the Y-piece and single pipe to the mufflers layout just for convenience or does it make no big difference power-wise in comparison to dual pipe layout? I was under the impression that dual pipes from front to end with X-pipe in between is the preferred setup for minimum power loss.
What are the experiences on here?
Cheers,
Stefan
Edited by stefan1200 on Tuesday 15th May 11:57
Having done a bit of research into this, 32" primaries and 4 into 1 is what i found to be desired.
1 3/4" the best diameter, until you want big power, 600+ bhp.
Loss of torque might result in bigger than this before those power levels.
I am at around 625bhp with mine (13/4" 25-32" primaries) and the manifolds have reached their limit, so would like to go to 1 7/8", you could only do this with a forward facing exhaust thanks to chassis restrictions, with long tubes any how.
You want an X-pipe too, mine is behind the gearbox, i Siamesed two exhaust tubes.
If you look around there are lots of conflicting bits of information, ideally exhaust wants to be specced to cam and intake also...
1 3/4" the best diameter, until you want big power, 600+ bhp.
Loss of torque might result in bigger than this before those power levels.
I am at around 625bhp with mine (13/4" 25-32" primaries) and the manifolds have reached their limit, so would like to go to 1 7/8", you could only do this with a forward facing exhaust thanks to chassis restrictions, with long tubes any how.
You want an X-pipe too, mine is behind the gearbox, i Siamesed two exhaust tubes.
If you look around there are lots of conflicting bits of information, ideally exhaust wants to be specced to cam and intake also...
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