Mating a TKO gearbox to RV8
Discussion
Slow M said:
2. The only item I regret, on my own build, is the use of an Aluminium bellhousing. A steel scattershield is too great a safety improvement, to not be included, in a proper build.
Best,
B.
That sounds interesting. What's the reasoning? Is it to do with energy adsorption in a crash? Best,
B.
DonkeyApple said:
Slow M said:
2. The only item I regret, on my own build, is the use of an Aluminium bellhousing. A steel scattershield is too great a safety improvement, to not be included, in a proper build.
Best,
B.
That sounds interesting. What's the reasoning? Is it to do with energy adsorption in a crash? Best,
B.
Best,
B.
Well, I got myself a TKO 600 gearbox from 'Spartridge' [cheers bloke] and picked it up from Topcats Racing. By the way, nice set up down there VERY impressive and Warren and the guys were very helpful. Dropped off my RV8 bellhousing at 'Rakeway' yesterday who are modifying it for me to take the TKO [Neal there is another of helpful guy with plenty of time to talk to you which is nice] along with fitting a concentric release bearing. Just have to decide on which clutch to use as my new AP single plate has held up so far but, do I go twin plate now or later Today I ordered a mid-shifter kit from the States to bring gearchange in same position in the car as the old T5. I did notice that 'Real Steel' used to make a bellhousing for the RV8/TKO but no longer do so
I'll keep thread updated in case anyone else finds it useful if they're considering the same in the future.
I'll keep thread updated in case anyone else finds it useful if they're considering the same in the future.
macdeb said:
Well, I got myself a TKO 600 gearbox from 'Spartridge' [cheers bloke] and picked it up from Topcats Racing. By the way, nice set up down there VERY impressive and Warren and the guys were very helpful. Dropped off my RV8 bellhousing at 'Rakeway' yesterday who are modifying it for me to take the TKO [Neal there is another of helpful guy with plenty of time to talk to you which is nice] along with fitting a concentric release bearing. Just have to decide on which clutch to use as my new AP single plate has held up so far but, do I go twin plate now or later Today I ordered a mid-shifter kit from the States to bring gearchange in same position in the car as the old T5. I did notice that 'Real Steel' used to make a bellhousing for the RV8/TKO but no longer do so
I'll keep thread updated in case anyone else finds it useful if they're considering the same in the future.
How much is the whole project going to cost ? How do the ratios compare .I'll keep thread updated in case anyone else finds it useful if they're considering the same in the future.
SILICONEKID345HP said:
How much is the whole project going to cost ? How do the ratios compare .
Daz, around £3k. new twin plate clutch, new steel flywheel, machining bellhousing, centre slave, spiogot bearing, balancing and used low mileage gearbox. Ratios are similar to T5 at;
2.87=1st
1.89=2nd
1.28=3rd
1.0=4th
0.82=5th
There is an option for a 0,64 = 5th gear but that for me would be a too wider gap between 4th and 5th.
A Quaiffe conversion with shot-peening etc was going to cost around £2.2 [without new clutch and flywheel] and then it would be at it's limit. So I shouldn't be left at the roadside with a box full of broken cogs
EFA and slight change for centre slave cylinder.
Edited by macdeb on Tuesday 13th January 21:36
Edited by macdeb on Thursday 22 January 20:30
Mac
I have this infront of mine, spins up like a motorcycle ............................
I have a steel flywheel and a single plate racing AP clutch plate and cover spare in the garage if any use, although you might need some think a bit beefier with all that lovely torque you have. Don't forget you will need to fabricate a new rear box mount and a new prop shaft as yours won't be long enough.
I have this infront of mine, spins up like a motorcycle ............................
I have a steel flywheel and a single plate racing AP clutch plate and cover spare in the garage if any use, although you might need some think a bit beefier with all that lovely torque you have. Don't forget you will need to fabricate a new rear box mount and a new prop shaft as yours won't be long enough.
Edited by 77racing on Monday 12th January 21:13
77racing said:
Mac
I have this infront of mine, spins up like a motorcycle ............................
I have a steel flywheel and a single plate racing AP clutch plate and cover spare in the garage if any use, although you might need some think a bit beefier with all that lovely torque you have. Don't forget you will need to fabricate a new rear box mount and a new prop shaft as yours won't be long enough.
That looks so cool, shame to cover it up! Thanks for the offer, I would've had the flywheel for sure if I had known earlier Ordered steel flywheel and McCleod RST 10.5" twin plate clutch this morning. Just gotta get 'em all balanced now, then offer up, then measure for propshaft and new gearbox mount. I have this infront of mine, spins up like a motorcycle ............................
I have a steel flywheel and a single plate racing AP clutch plate and cover spare in the garage if any use, although you might need some think a bit beefier with all that lovely torque you have. Don't forget you will need to fabricate a new rear box mount and a new prop shaft as yours won't be long enough.
Edited by 77racing on Monday 12th January 21:13
Edited by macdeb on Monday 12th January 23:21
macdeb said:
That looks so cool, shame to cover it up! Thanks for the offer, I would've had the flywheel for sure if I had known earlier Ordered steel flywheel and McCleod RST 10.5" twin plate clutch this morning. Just gotta get 'em all balanced now, then offer up, then measure for propshaft and new gearbox mount.
Do you have to change the flywheel when changing the gearbox ?Edited by macdeb on Monday 12th January 23:21
I have thought about changing up to a lightweight steel flywheel - but do you not have to remove the engine, disassemble and get the new flywheel balanced with the crank/etc/etc as a single rotating mass..?
Or is there a way to swap flywheels and have a properly balanced end result without having to take the engine out/apart..?
Or is there a way to swap flywheels and have a properly balanced end result without having to take the engine out/apart..?
domV8 said:
I have thought about changing up to a lightweight steel flywheel - but do you not have to remove the engine, disassemble and get the new flywheel balanced with the crank/etc/etc as a single rotating mass..?
Or is there a way to swap flywheels and have a properly balanced end result without having to take the engine out/apart..?
Hi Dom, a 4.6 built by Dom [TVR Power] I would guess it's been balanced though best ask or should be on spec' sheet. All things considered, you can change flywheel with engine in situ and have the balancing matched to the existing if your not sure.Or is there a way to swap flywheels and have a properly balanced end result without having to take the engine out/apart..?
Edited by macdeb on Thursday 22 January 20:58
Hi Mac,
I was very specific at rebuild time about the importance of balancing, as the point of the rebuild/new heads was to extend the usable rev range - so wanted something that was well balanced as it would regularly see 6500rpm...
So any changes would have to retain this level of balancing - can crank assemblies balanced while still within the engine, be balanced to the same tolerances as "standard" balancing where the crank assembly has been removed from the engine..? ie. is the level of balancing achieved comparable to standard balancing processes?
Thanks,
Dom
I was very specific at rebuild time about the importance of balancing, as the point of the rebuild/new heads was to extend the usable rev range - so wanted something that was well balanced as it would regularly see 6500rpm...
So any changes would have to retain this level of balancing - can crank assemblies balanced while still within the engine, be balanced to the same tolerances as "standard" balancing where the crank assembly has been removed from the engine..? ie. is the level of balancing achieved comparable to standard balancing processes?
Thanks,
Dom
domV8 said:
Hi Mac,
I was very specific at rebuild time about the importance of balancing, as the point of the rebuild/new heads was to extend the usable rev range - so wanted something that was well balanced as it would regularly see 6500rpm...
So any changes would have to retain this level of balancing - can crank assemblies balanced while still within the engine, be balanced to the same tolerances as "standard" balancing where the crank assembly has been removed from the engine..? ie. is the level of balancing achieved comparable to standard balancing processes?
Thanks,
Dom
Hi Dom,I was very specific at rebuild time about the importance of balancing, as the point of the rebuild/new heads was to extend the usable rev range - so wanted something that was well balanced as it would regularly see 6500rpm...
So any changes would have to retain this level of balancing - can crank assemblies balanced while still within the engine, be balanced to the same tolerances as "standard" balancing where the crank assembly has been removed from the engine..? ie. is the level of balancing achieved comparable to standard balancing processes?
Thanks,
Dom
Internal balancing has to be best if you think about it, having all the pistons/rods weighing exactly the same, then crank balance, then flywheel and clutch pressure plate, front pulleys. That's how mine was done.
I would think you need to ascertain if the crank was balanced independent. Though from what Carsy says that's doubtful, but like I say I'd ask. But you can have the new flywheel matched to the balancing of the old. Ask 'Brummie' on here as I recall that's what he had to have done for his LS.
Edited by macdeb on Friday 23 January 14:33
Rv8's can be internally balanced but it takes a lot of time to do it. External balancing means that weights get added to the flywheel and pulley as required. It's much quicker and simpler but means you can't swop those componants. They belong on the original engine.
Factory engines are often assembled with mass produced parts, (cranks, pistons, rods etc) which have been manufactured to the correct tolerances required to achieve reasonable balance.
Then the assembled engines are 'driven' by a machine and additional balancing is done to the the front and rear of the crank if required. This is how it was done at Rover. Also, Camaro's don't get any balancing treatment to the crank pulley or flywheel but Corvettes do. The vettes redline 500 rpm's higher.
Factory engines are often assembled with mass produced parts, (cranks, pistons, rods etc) which have been manufactured to the correct tolerances required to achieve reasonable balance.
Then the assembled engines are 'driven' by a machine and additional balancing is done to the the front and rear of the crank if required. This is how it was done at Rover. Also, Camaro's don't get any balancing treatment to the crank pulley or flywheel but Corvettes do. The vettes redline 500 rpm's higher.
Boosted LS1 said:
Rv8's can be internally balanced but it takes a lot of time to do it. External balancing means that weights get added to the flywheel and pulley as required. It's much quicker and simpler but means you can't swop those componants. They belong on the original engine.
Factory engines are often assembled with mass produced parts, (cranks, pistons, rods etc) which have been manufactured to the correct tolerances required to achieve reasonable balance.
Then the assembled engines are 'driven' by a machine and additional balancing is done to the the front and rear of the crank if required. This is how it was done at Rover. Also, Camaro's don't get any balancing treatment to the crank pulley or flywheel but Corvettes do. The vettes redline 500 rpm's higher.
I had my pistons weighed and drilled also con rods ,then the crank balanced , 7lbs off the flywheel. Factory engines are often assembled with mass produced parts, (cranks, pistons, rods etc) which have been manufactured to the correct tolerances required to achieve reasonable balance.
Then the assembled engines are 'driven' by a machine and additional balancing is done to the the front and rear of the crank if required. This is how it was done at Rover. Also, Camaro's don't get any balancing treatment to the crank pulley or flywheel but Corvettes do. The vettes redline 500 rpm's higher.
I saw the crank on the machine being spun ,with i think the flywheel and clutch on the end .
The whole lot cost me £75 ,my little 1860 mgb engine spun past 6500 rpm .
You can`t beat those little old engineering works and someone who looks like a geriatric doing the magic for you ..
Farndon Motors ,absolutely brilliant .
Edited by SILICONEKID345HP on Sunday 8th February 20:26
SILICONEKID345HP said:
I had my pistons weighed and drilled also con rods ,then the crank balanced , 7lbs off the flywheel.
I saw the crank on the machine being spun ,with i think the flywheel and clutch on the end .
The whole lot cost me £75 ,my little 1860 mgb engine spun past 6500 rpm .
You can`t beat those little old engineering works and someone who looks like a geriatric doing the magic for you ..
Farndon Motors ,absolutely brilliant .
I saw the crank on the machine being spun ,with i think the flywheel and clutch on the end .
The whole lot cost me £75 ,my little 1860 mgb engine spun past 6500 rpm .
You can`t beat those little old engineering works and someone who looks like a geriatric doing the magic for you ..
Farndon Motors ,absolutely brilliant .
Edited by SILICONEKID345HP on Sunday 8th February 20:26
MJA automotive engineering in Bromsgrove here. Was abit more expensive than that but great job done and best money spent IMO
Update; After waiting, and waiting, 3 journeys [to Cheadle] covering 480 miles and 3 days from work, being told next week, next week, next week and after nearly two months from start got my stuff back. [shame, seemed a nice bunch but my requirements were way down on the list it seems, not so important to them but very important to me] Can't live on maybe and could still be waiting now.
Spoke to an old mate [Craig @ Dyno-torque] who I should've gone to first but didn't think, and he started straight away.
Thanks to guys who PM'd me with ideas and information as it was very helpful, I'll keep updating for anyone who may be thinking of the same conversion. [there are some high power RV8's coming out there]
Anyone thinking of LS conversions should pop in to Craigs, besides his 1017bhp [yes, 1017] twin turbo LS 6.9 RX7 he is doing many others at the moment and they look awesome
Spoke to an old mate [Craig @ Dyno-torque] who I should've gone to first but didn't think, and he started straight away.
Thanks to guys who PM'd me with ideas and information as it was very helpful, I'll keep updating for anyone who may be thinking of the same conversion. [there are some high power RV8's coming out there]
Anyone thinking of LS conversions should pop in to Craigs, besides his 1017bhp [yes, 1017] twin turbo LS 6.9 RX7 he is doing many others at the moment and they look awesome
Edited by macdeb on Wednesday 18th February 16:44
Edited by macdeb on Sunday 15th March 17:44
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