Mating a TKO gearbox to RV8
Discussion
Right, almost there for those interested. Bellhousing as it turns out was the easy bit 
Been working on clutch arrangement and want to continue with an external slave cylinder, I know internal are in vogue at the moment but seals do fail and that's a gearbox out job. Just doesn't make sense to me.
Working out clearance for release bearing, bearing carrier, and spigot bearing. I have lot's of measurements that I'll try and make a diagram of and post up just in case someone may want to follow the same route. ie; RV8/TKO600/twin plate clutch/external slave. Don't get me wrong as I like the T5 and TVR's are light, but it can only do so much.
Been working on clutch arrangement and want to continue with an external slave cylinder, I know internal are in vogue at the moment but seals do fail and that's a gearbox out job. Just doesn't make sense to me.
Working out clearance for release bearing, bearing carrier, and spigot bearing. I have lot's of measurements that I'll try and make a diagram of and post up just in case someone may want to follow the same route. ie; RV8/TKO600/twin plate clutch/external slave. Don't get me wrong as I like the T5 and TVR's are light, but it can only do so much.
Why not just go hydraulic throwout bearing release?
Just as a example this is adjustable
http://bowlertransmissions.com/p/440/hydraulic-thr...
Just as a example this is adjustable
http://bowlertransmissions.com/p/440/hydraulic-thr...
Edited by Alexdaredevils on Tuesday 24th February 22:26
Hi Mate, long time no speak.
Yeah, seen them and probably [read definately] an easier job. Neal has one with an external bleed point, but as I said they do fail for one reason or another, and as a born worrier I just feel better having something I could fix more easily if I had to.
You know as I do, if everything was that easy, everyone would do it.
Yeah, seen them and probably [read definately] an easier job. Neal has one with an external bleed point, but as I said they do fail for one reason or another, and as a born worrier I just feel better having something I could fix more easily if I had to.
You know as I do, if everything was that easy, everyone would do it.
Edited by macdeb on Tuesday 24th February 22:49
Edited by macdeb on Tuesday 24th February 22:52
Bit late to help now Mac I'm sorry but it may be of use to others . I found these pictures of my bell housing I converted for the TKO, I just had lugs welded on, to drill and tap myself. This cost me £20 to get welded and a hour to clean it up with a sanding disc , not finished sanding in pic's but you get the idea.
Modified bellhousing with box attached.
New TKO600 with mid-shifter fitted, next to old T5
Modified old T5 gearbox mount to take TKO 600 so as to use existing chassis mounts.
modified to sit 22mm forward to get exact same gearstick position
Modified prop-shaft.
New TKO600 with mid-shifter fitted, next to old T5
Modified old T5 gearbox mount to take TKO 600 so as to use existing chassis mounts.
modified to sit 22mm forward to get exact same gearstick position
Modified prop-shaft.
Edited by macdeb on Sunday 15th March 17:48
can you make me a list pretty please List for any considering it;
TKO 600 gearbox with a FORD input shaft [it's the correct length]
Mid-shifter kit for above if not already fitted. [normally come with rear shifter]
Output yoke for above.
Suitable release bearing.
Propshaft modified to accept new output yoke [best measure length required when fitted in the car].
Modified bellhousing as previous.
Crank' Spigot bearing needs to have id machined out to suit larger diameter input shaft.
Input shaft carrier has to be machined back if fitting twin plate clutch.
If using external slave, Release bearing carrier id machined out to suit larger input shaft carrier, end machined to take new release bearing, and shortened at front by around 13mm [best take measurements first] if fitting twin plate clutch. [takes all of 10 mins on lathe]
Modify gearstick so by moving it forward by 22mm if exact standard position required [it will fit through hole in tunnel without but makes better job and only takes about 30 mins but best measure your own first in case]
Modify existing gearbox mount [as pictured] so as to use same mounting points on chassis.
If fitting twin plate clutch, the flywheel will need re-drilling/rebalanced to accept. I went for purpose made steel flywheel as it was an easier/better job. I had that lightened and balanced also.
I will no doubt edit
Hope it helps, PM if anyone wishes.
TKO 600 gearbox with a FORD input shaft [it's the correct length]
Mid-shifter kit for above if not already fitted. [normally come with rear shifter]
Output yoke for above.
Suitable release bearing.
Propshaft modified to accept new output yoke [best measure length required when fitted in the car].
Modified bellhousing as previous.
Crank' Spigot bearing needs to have id machined out to suit larger diameter input shaft.
Input shaft carrier has to be machined back if fitting twin plate clutch.
If using external slave, Release bearing carrier id machined out to suit larger input shaft carrier, end machined to take new release bearing, and shortened at front by around 13mm [best take measurements first] if fitting twin plate clutch. [takes all of 10 mins on lathe]
Modify gearstick so by moving it forward by 22mm if exact standard position required [it will fit through hole in tunnel without but makes better job and only takes about 30 mins but best measure your own first in case]
Modify existing gearbox mount [as pictured] so as to use same mounting points on chassis.
If fitting twin plate clutch, the flywheel will need re-drilling/rebalanced to accept. I went for purpose made steel flywheel as it was an easier/better job. I had that lightened and balanced also.
I will no doubt edit
Hope it helps, PM if anyone wishes.
Edited by macdeb on Wednesday 6th May 09:37
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