Custom 500+ Horsepower LS6 1972 TVR Vixen Wide Body build
Discussion
I received the CNC cut gussets and pieces to make the TVR logo'd crossbar today, and I think it will all look pretty damn good and really beef up the Suspension/Roll Bar assembly.
Once the car is exploded the assembly will be sent out for final welding and a couple more gussets, and I will be home free with a unique and custom item
Once the car is exploded the assembly will be sent out for final welding and a couple more gussets, and I will be home free with a unique and custom item
I have the first side of the front fender flare mod, and I am thinking I really like it so far. I did my best to keep the overall TVR flat top shape that also matches the rear, but I removed the odd fender opening roll in at the top, and now it looks like a normal wheel arch that allows me to fill all the wheel opening up
[SIZE=4]Here is the original shape of the TVR wheel opening with the same size tire on it.. [/SIZE]
[SIZE=4]Here is the original shape of the TVR wheel opening with the same size tire on it.. [/SIZE]
Well I have passenger side bonnet flare rough in to match the drivers side that was done the other day, and of course getting it symmetrical kicked my ass, but it appears it will be there after the final grinding and shaping.. Once that is all found to be true, I will leave it up to the body shop to do all the finish grinding and structural strengthening on the back side, because Fiber Glass works sucks..
Looks like I have both sides of the front bonnet flaring pretty damn symmetrical for rough grinding and trimming, so the body shop should be able to take it from here. I am tired of the fiberglass grinding that wasn't part of the deal, but when you want it a certain way, you have to do what you have to do. Lol
Ok, I keep saying the Mod's have to end so we can actually meet a deadline, and I have brought this Mod up to the customer Doug and then let it die until he brought it up today, because I have really been trying to control my "While we are here, wouldn't this be cool suggestions", because he tends to give into my vision for this car, and that keeps adding more and more work and expense. Lol
The idea is for a Multi Throttle Body Down Draft Intake and a nice Clear Plexi Panel made into the hood scoop to show it off, and I think it would throw this car over the top with the Retro/Modern look we are going for with this build.
The idea is for a Multi Throttle Body Down Draft Intake and a nice Clear Plexi Panel made into the hood scoop to show it off, and I think it would throw this car over the top with the Retro/Modern look we are going for with this build.
Here are a few pics of the rear Cage/Suspension assembly all tacked together short of the Sway Bar mounting, but this should give an idea of how it all works.
I will be removing the smaller needle bearing setup on the aluminum cantilever to replace them with a more durable Brass/Bronze bushing, and that will replace the pictured washers and smaller bolts pictured, so it should be pretty damn durable after that mod is done.
I will be removing the smaller needle bearing setup on the aluminum cantilever to replace them with a more durable Brass/Bronze bushing, and that will replace the pictured washers and smaller bolts pictured, so it should be pretty damn durable after that mod is done.
I have determined that I will be connecting my Coil Over and Sway Bar links to the Upper Control Arm versus the lower arm, and I am thinking shorter link rods are stronger, and the smaller upper control arm is also stronger than the lower depending on dictated mounting points on the lower arm, plus it would give me unlimited space for my CV Axles at the same time.
I will also be mounting the Front Sway Bar high on the chassis for additional ground clearance, and I also plan on attaching the links to the upper control arm also...
I will also be mounting the Front Sway Bar high on the chassis for additional ground clearance, and I also plan on attaching the links to the upper control arm also...
The OBX Individual Throttle Body kit and Old School Valve Covers made it in for the TVR Vixen build, and damn what a difference it makes for a retro race appearance. I wish I could say the OBX kit is without hitches, but a box of loose parts and no instructions isn't a good start, along with just a few quality issues to address and make better, but it is a decent kit for the money when compared to the alternatives.
I had a right before falling asleep idea pop into my head last night, and here is the rough in of that idea. I was thinking there should be a way to ensure cleaner air gets to the throttle bodies, along with ensuring that rock or road debris that might get past the inner fenders doesn't have a chance to get anywhere near the intakes, and I came up with this baffle that will seal against the underside of the bonnet and draw air from the rear hood opening.
This baffle also has a dual purpose as sort of a jewel case for the intake systems display under the glass, because it takes all the dark under hood background out, while having a reflective enhancement function. I will make the final piece out of aluminum and have some nice tig welding done, so it will look like it belongs there and to me says vintage race.
I still have to work out the back wall and a few bottom pieces, but I ran out of aluminum material I had laying around the shop. If you see the outdoor pics, you will notice the Dark Background that I feel this piece will eliminate.
This baffle also has a dual purpose as sort of a jewel case for the intake systems display under the glass, because it takes all the dark under hood background out, while having a reflective enhancement function. I will make the final piece out of aluminum and have some nice tig welding done, so it will look like it belongs there and to me says vintage race.
I still have to work out the back wall and a few bottom pieces, but I ran out of aluminum material I had laying around the shop. If you see the outdoor pics, you will notice the Dark Background that I feel this piece will eliminate.
I think I have the final layout of the air baffle system for the individual throttle bodies, and it will gather plenty of air from the back of the hood and I will be adding the aluminum firewall insulation on the outside of it to allow cooler air and for a more race/purpose look.
I have screwed it all together with brackets so my welder can tack it all together and not try to fit and hold a bunch of pieces together, so I hope that aids for a nicer appearance once is all tig welded together, and all the bends and joints will be tig welded the full lengths for a multi piece fabricated look.
I have screwed it all together with brackets so my welder can tack it all together and not try to fit and hold a bunch of pieces together, so I hope that aids for a nicer appearance once is all tig welded together, and all the bends and joints will be tig welded the full lengths for a multi piece fabricated look.
SUCCESS. The TVR Vixen is now equipped with a combination of Wilwood 6-piston 15in front and 4-piston 14 in rear brakes, Falken Azenis RT615k Tires in a 275/35/18 front and 315/30/18in rear combination on Boze Alloy 18x10 and 18x11 wheels, along with being setup for Ridetech Triple Adjust Coil Overs all the way around. That should be a very nice combination of quality products that will allow this car to perform as she is going to look, and the 540 horsepower LS6 @2100 pounds should help in the launch that makes all of the other components necessary.
The progress pics have been fairly slow due to waiting for a couple of key components before I can tear the car back down, but here are a few pics of the new door mirror choice, and I think it flows way better with the car than the chrome mirror that was on it, plus these matching left and right mirrors have built in turn signal indicators for a bit of a modern touch.
Hadn't had much time to get some shop projects worked on due a hectic business schedule, but I am back in the shop and there will be some upcoming updates on the TVR Vixen and 1967 Gto LS2 build.
I finally figured out a place to mount the Ridetech TQ series triple adjust resevoirs, and it is an odd place overall, but there is no visual blockage out the rear and there is easy access for adjustments. I just need Ridetech to send me new stickers for the canisters so I can clock the logos correctly to take care of my OCD. In the last picture, please do not pay attention to the mock up heim joint link, because it is not the correct one and was only used for testing suspension articulation and mounting tab locations.
I finally figured out a place to mount the Ridetech TQ series triple adjust resevoirs, and it is an odd place overall, but there is no visual blockage out the rear and there is easy access for adjustments. I just need Ridetech to send me new stickers for the canisters so I can clock the logos correctly to take care of my OCD. In the last picture, please do not pay attention to the mock up heim joint link, because it is not the correct one and was only used for testing suspension articulation and mounting tab locations.
Working on the reshape of the TVR's lower nose to add more center opening and to also bring the bodywork down to complete where TVR left off from the factory, and that will also clean up the excessive chassis/suspension exposure that just doesn't make the body work completed.
This is a rough in of course, so the center opening will have more curve and contour to blend out nicely to match the factory curves of the car, and the sides/corners of the center opening will have Arch and Rounded Corners to look much more at home. I needed something to be secure all the cut lower fiberglass pieces, so I made the center opening out of steel and welded to the factory bonnet tubing to give me a sturdy center points to work up to, so the fine tuning of those corners and contour of the opening will start happening when everything across the bottom is securely attached as one piece.
Hopefully everyone can see through the crude duct tape application and see the overall contour that if fairly close to the factory but just a bit more aggressive and lower to hide the excessive chassis exposure cleans it all up, which can be seen in the factory pictures below. And yes we are considering removing the front bumperettes totally.
First rough in to get rigidity and allow shaping. This part of the process is not to pretty, but it will be strong as hell, and give me what I need to build off of. As you should also be able to see, we are eliminating the front bumperettes, but I am still going to have the curved corners of the bonnet that mimic them.
This is a rough in of course, so the center opening will have more curve and contour to blend out nicely to match the factory curves of the car, and the sides/corners of the center opening will have Arch and Rounded Corners to look much more at home. I needed something to be secure all the cut lower fiberglass pieces, so I made the center opening out of steel and welded to the factory bonnet tubing to give me a sturdy center points to work up to, so the fine tuning of those corners and contour of the opening will start happening when everything across the bottom is securely attached as one piece.
Hopefully everyone can see through the crude duct tape application and see the overall contour that if fairly close to the factory but just a bit more aggressive and lower to hide the excessive chassis exposure cleans it all up, which can be seen in the factory pictures below. And yes we are considering removing the front bumperettes totally.
First rough in to get rigidity and allow shaping. This part of the process is not to pretty, but it will be strong as hell, and give me what I need to build off of. As you should also be able to see, we are eliminating the front bumperettes, but I am still going to have the curved corners of the bonnet that mimic them.
Guys, please don't say Cobra! Lol. It has been a struggle to make the TVR front end more aggressive and functional, and working with the previous upper and lower openings seperately wasn't flowing right, so I was left no real choice other than to make one large center opening that is often associated to the Cobra even though many other cars have had similar race inspired styling.
I had stole some lines and curves elsewhere on the body to have the opening make sense, and I actually didn't do an elongated oval that is curved forward also, so it has the flat center from left to right and the straightened curve on the sides as other parts of the body does, so I hope that this rough in will mimic other subtle features of the body. There is still a lot of structure and refining to do in order to make it permanent, and I still have to mirror it on the other side, but this is the best I was able to come up with on such an odd shaped car from the factory.
I had stole some lines and curves elsewhere on the body to have the opening make sense, and I actually didn't do an elongated oval that is curved forward also, so it has the flat center from left to right and the straightened curve on the sides as other parts of the body does, so I hope that this rough in will mimic other subtle features of the body. There is still a lot of structure and refining to do in order to make it permanent, and I still have to mirror it on the other side, but this is the best I was able to come up with on such an odd shaped car from the factory.
Just a little bit closer to rough in and the overall new front opening and nose shape down, and then the front clip is off to Corbett Tucker for all that nasty fiberglass grinding and final shaping to get it smoothed out and perfectly symmetrical. Glad it will be him doing the grinding instead of me, because the ground fibers and dust is the absolute worst kind of work in my opinion, and that is why it is great to have a quality body/paint guy that loves his work.
Not sure what if anything is going to be done with some sort of split bar or mesh filler as of yet, and I am entertaining the possibility of some retro round European race/driving lights that might look good as a filler also, but I think it should all fill in very well by the time the aluminum radiator and oil cooler is in place.
Not sure what if anything is going to be done with some sort of split bar or mesh filler as of yet, and I am entertaining the possibility of some retro round European race/driving lights that might look good as a filler also, but I think it should all fill in very well by the time the aluminum radiator and oil cooler is in place.
The TVR front end is getting closer to final rough in, but we are going to pick it up from Corbett Tucker at Creative Paint Worx to fit it to the car for tilt mountings and real world perspective viewing to make contour adjustments if necessary.
It is hard to really get the full story in pictures, and at these angles/heights on the bottom contour looks just a little flat and or squared at the corners there, but once the nose is at ride height and on the car, I think even a more contoured opening would appear flat just by visual break down.
It is hard to really get the full story in pictures, and at these angles/heights on the bottom contour looks just a little flat and or squared at the corners there, but once the nose is at ride height and on the car, I think even a more contoured opening would appear flat just by visual break down.
Looks like the TVR front clip has its basic shape roughed in, so it is now time to refit it and make the new attachment points for the tilt action. There may be some minor contour adjustments made to the lower bottom of the opening after it is installed and viewed in the real world, because there seems to be just a bit of flatness or hard corner that should disappear once installed and at ride height versus the up in the air angle of these pics.. We also may be running some sort of additional aero accessory, so I am not sure if anymore attention will be needed to it as a whole once installed and everything is in place.
Here is the original opening.
Here is the original opening.
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