Calling for LS advice and recommendations

Calling for LS advice and recommendations

Author
Discussion

77racing

3,346 posts

187 months

Sunday 15th October 2017
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Dereck Hi, I run a Quaife 69G behind my LS3 with Geartronic's flat shift ecu. changes gear in less than quarter of a second and it's manual shift scratchchinidea

DangerousDerek

Original Poster:

8,655 posts

220 months

Sunday 15th October 2017
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77racing said:
Dereck Hi, I run a Quaife 69G behind my LS3 with Geartronic's flat shift ecu. changes gear in less than quarter of a second and it's manual shift scratchchinidea
Why do I feel that sounds very expensive?

DangerousDerek

Original Poster:

8,655 posts

220 months

Sunday 15th October 2017
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RichardD said:
Congratulations, you have a base for lots of possibilities! What make/models are the turbos out of interest smile?

Thinking back to the 1/4, with a manual box you will wanting to be maxing out in 3rd or 4th at the end... (3rd may be tricky due to rpm required.)
With the right cam, and uprated valve springs it should be good for at least 7200 rpm.
The hairdryers are genuine Garret GT3076r good for upto 600 bhp each.
I will only be running them at 10psi for the first season. Honest.

RichardD

3,560 posts

245 months

Monday 16th October 2017
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DangerousDerek said:
With the right cam, and uprated valve springs it should be good for at least 7200 rpm.
The hairdryers are genuine Garret GT3076r good for upto 600 bhp each.
I will only be running them at 10psi for the first season. Honest.
More rpm the better (assuming power isn't dropping off too much) smile.

Am sure you already know, you should typically get (very) low 10's with just under 700bhp and a 'chunky' T56 (slightly slower shifting than the T5), crossing the line in 4th.

QBee

20,987 posts

144 months

Monday 16th October 2017
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DangerousDerek said:
RichardD said:
Congratulations, you have a base for lots of possibilities! What make/models are the turbos out of interest smile?

Thinking back to the 1/4, with a manual box you will wanting to be maxing out in 3rd or 4th at the end... (3rd may be tricky due to rpm required.)
With the right cam, and uprated valve springs it should be good for at least 7200 rpm.
The hairdryers are genuine Garret GT3076r good for upto 600 bhp each.
I will only be running them at 10psi for the first season. Honest.
You will need the correct ECU to run everything - if it has multiple maps then you can always have a low boost map for road use....or tie your right foot bootlaces to your belt...laugh
Seriously, I have a 2.5 psi map on my Chimaera that is perfect for everyday use.

TVR4US

163 posts

104 months

Monday 16th October 2017
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DangerousDerek said:
I aint trying to build something common though.
Brilliant answer,

DangerousDerek

Original Poster:

8,655 posts

220 months

Monday 16th October 2017
quotequote all
RichardD said:
More rpm the better (assuming power isn't dropping off too much) smile.

Am sure you already know, you should typically get (very) low 10's with just under 700bhp and a 'chunky' T56 (slightly slower shifting than the T5), crossing the line in 4th.
Weli reckon I can dip into the 9’s and maybe a mid 9 with say a bar of boost.

Think I will be using MS3 pro

RichardD

3,560 posts

245 months

Monday 16th October 2017
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DangerousDerek said:
Weli reckon I can dip into the 9’s and maybe a mid 9 with say a bar of boost.

Think I will be using MS3 pro
I did a quick model / calc which resulted in a 10.1 (680bhp) with a high 1.5x 60ft time too, so I definitely agree.

Do you think lag may be any sort of issue (in the first couple of gears) and ... if so (!) are you planning on keeping your NOS equipment as a sort of "anti-lag" just in case hehe ?

DangerousDerek

Original Poster:

8,655 posts

220 months

Monday 16th October 2017
quotequote all
RichardD said:
I did a quick model / calc which resulted in a 10.1 (680bhp) with a high 1.5x 60ft time too, so I definitely agree.

Do you think lag may be any sort of issue (in the first couple of gears) and ... if so (!) are you planning on keeping your NOS equipment as a sort of "anti-lag" just in case hehe ?
Richard, I have already done a 1.55 second 60 foot time. I plan to make a few changes when I sort a diff out that can take the punishment. I expect to be deep into 1.4's

RichardD

3,560 posts

245 months

Tuesday 17th October 2017
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DangerousDerek said:
Richard, I have already done a 1.55 second 60 foot time. I plan to make a few changes when I sort a diff out that can take the punishment. I expect to be deep into 1.4's
All I was intending with those initial numbers was just a rough guess of some potential early runs (based on a T56 or TKO600). With the power potential of the engine block and the turbos, if the car is modified as much as is necessary to use all the power fully, then you can be on the edge of wheelies and into the 8's !

norris_83

40 posts

86 months

Thursday 19th October 2017
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4.8s and 6.0s can handle some good boost with no problems (14~16psi) if tuned right. But the latter will help spool up the turbos and give you a much better torque curve.

That build is going to be a monster! Would love to have a race once I get my car out of the warehouse and road legal.


DangerousDerek

Original Poster:

8,655 posts

220 months

Thursday 19th October 2017
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norris_83 said:
4.8s and 6.0s can handle some good boost with no problems (14~16psi) if tuned right. But the latter will help spool up the turbos and give you a much better torque curve.

That build is going to be a monster! Would love to have a race once I get my car out of the warehouse and road legal.
I will race anything! I find faster cars drag me along and I get my best times that way.

Hmmm I hope I don't suffer too much lag and not missing out on torque for not having a 6.0.
The car will weigh around 1250kg with me in it when finished so maybe a higher revving 4.8 is right for the car. I did a little research on the spec I am aiming for and think that boost will build from around 2500 rpm. Whatever it ends up I am sure it will be considerably faster than it has been on a nitrous injected Rover V8 and that's all that matters.

RichardD

3,560 posts

245 months

Friday 20th October 2017
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DangerousDerek said:
...Hmmm I hope I don't suffer too much lag and not missing out on torque for not having a 6.0.
The car will weigh around 1250kg with me in it when finished so maybe a higher revving 4.8 is right for the car. I did a little research on the spec I am aiming for and think that boost will build from around 2500 rpm. Whatever it ends up I am sure it will be considerably faster than it has been on a nitrous injected Rover V8 and that's all that matters.
When you gave me the models of the turbos I did a quick look on the www and they seemed popular for big power Evo's, revving to 8k. Imho a 3.0 bank could mean everything happening at lower than ideal rpm for straightforward gearing, so you having 2.4's is probably ideal smile.

DangerousDerek

Original Poster:

8,655 posts

220 months

Friday 20th October 2017
quotequote all
RichardD said:
When you gave me the models of the turbos I did a quick look on the www and they seemed popular for big power Evo's, revving to 8k. Imho a 3.0 bank could mean everything happening at lower than ideal rpm for straightforward gearing, so you having 2.4's is probably ideal smile.
I knew I had a reason but it was so long ago I bought these turbos. The proof will be in the pudding