V70 T5 Buying advice
Discussion
Hi All,
I've been offered an ex plod V70 T5 for a pretty good price, but I'm just looking for some advice on things to look out for on these models.
It's a 2005 V70 T5 SE, it's done 114k. I've had a test drive and it goes well, no clunks or rattles. Although there is a message on the dash saying it needs a Volvo Alarm Service.
All advice is welcome, thanks in advance
I've been offered an ex plod V70 T5 for a pretty good price, but I'm just looking for some advice on things to look out for on these models.
It's a 2005 V70 T5 SE, it's done 114k. I've had a test drive and it goes well, no clunks or rattles. Although there is a message on the dash saying it needs a Volvo Alarm Service.
All advice is welcome, thanks in advance
As a 2005 it'll be a 2.4, these really are great cars and a lot of the early bugs were well sorted by then. I assume it's automatic? If so make sure you take it for a good long test drive from stone cold to fully warmed up and make sure it shifts smoothly.
The alarm service is due to the battery in the backup sounder failing, you can replace the module or take it to bits and replace the battery. Or you can just ignore it, like I do.
The alarm service is due to the battery in the backup sounder failing, you can replace the module or take it to bits and replace the battery. Or you can just ignore it, like I do.
If its ex-plod its likely to be a manual. Downside to the ex-plod cars are the poverty spec dashboard and the pleblon seat fabrics which have often seen some pretty heavy weight police arse over the years.
Engine wise they are largely bulletproof but check for a blocked crank breather system (or PCV as internet pundits love to call it) as these can end up blowing out the rear main seal on the engine, start the car from cold and pull the dipstick, if you get smoking from the tube the breather is blocked. You can also carefully release the oil cap with the engine running and you should get a slight vacuum effect of it sucking back down, again if this isn't the case then breather is not doing its job. Iffy coil packs are a known issue (often get a misfire when hot) but cheap to replace. Noisy or notchy power steering can be an indication of a tired and over worked pump or worse still, a shagged steering rack (a quite common problem) - listen for a wishy washy sound when turning the wheel or whining from the pump, the PAS fluid should be nice and clean and not smell burnt. AC compressor bearing get noisy with age so listen for grumbling at idle with the AC on.
If its a leggy example then check the cambelt has been changed they're not known for snapping but they do need changing to the correct schedule as 20 valves is a lot to bend. They like quality oil and fuel so don't be a cheap skate in this department. Running crap fuel will see you replacing lambda sensors on a regular basis. They run fine on regular 95ron fuel and in my experience actually run better on this than 97ron. Super unleaded seems to cause them to pink and knock more than standard unleaded as the timing adjusts to cope with different fuel. If its been mapped it'll more than likely prefer the super unleaded though.
They are quite heavy on their suspension so listen for clonking, chattering and knocking - crappy bushes can also lead to un-even tyre wear, particularly the front inner edges so have a good look at the tyres and make sure the meat is wearing evenly - often they will look mint on the outer edge and as bald as Greg Wallace's bonce on the inner edge.
Brakes are generally good and all the police spec cars will have been specced with the larger diameter brake discs. Rear calipers will seize from time to time and can be hard to diagnose as they will work nicely from cold and then seize up when the get warm - Blue tinged, cooked up rear discs is the tell tale sign. There is a known fault with the rear handbrake shoes chucked about on the internet with stories of them falling to bits and destroying the hubs but I've never seen this. Ideally fit genuine brake pads if you can as many OEM spec alternatives lack high speed bite and squeal like crazy.
Driving wise, they're very good out on the road with great manners and superb high speed stability (possibly one of the reasons the old bill liked them?) That said, they do crash about a bit at low speeds and can tramline on white lines. Don't expect fantastic economy from the T5 lump - around 25mpg average but then, if you're miser go and get a D5 or a bus pass. They tune up well for minimal money but I'd go a little carefully on upping the horsepower if its a gay-tronic auto. On the subject of the gay-tronic boxes, they need periodic flushing of the oil and fresh put in and its a good idea to have the software updated from time to time to up the shift pressures slightly to account for the wear tear on the box over time. Its an Aisin Warner box and has a bad rep but thats largely unjustified and they last well if looked after. If its a manual then make sure the dual mass flywheel isn't noisy or the gearchanges snatchy.
Engine wise they are largely bulletproof but check for a blocked crank breather system (or PCV as internet pundits love to call it) as these can end up blowing out the rear main seal on the engine, start the car from cold and pull the dipstick, if you get smoking from the tube the breather is blocked. You can also carefully release the oil cap with the engine running and you should get a slight vacuum effect of it sucking back down, again if this isn't the case then breather is not doing its job. Iffy coil packs are a known issue (often get a misfire when hot) but cheap to replace. Noisy or notchy power steering can be an indication of a tired and over worked pump or worse still, a shagged steering rack (a quite common problem) - listen for a wishy washy sound when turning the wheel or whining from the pump, the PAS fluid should be nice and clean and not smell burnt. AC compressor bearing get noisy with age so listen for grumbling at idle with the AC on.
If its a leggy example then check the cambelt has been changed they're not known for snapping but they do need changing to the correct schedule as 20 valves is a lot to bend. They like quality oil and fuel so don't be a cheap skate in this department. Running crap fuel will see you replacing lambda sensors on a regular basis. They run fine on regular 95ron fuel and in my experience actually run better on this than 97ron. Super unleaded seems to cause them to pink and knock more than standard unleaded as the timing adjusts to cope with different fuel. If its been mapped it'll more than likely prefer the super unleaded though.
They are quite heavy on their suspension so listen for clonking, chattering and knocking - crappy bushes can also lead to un-even tyre wear, particularly the front inner edges so have a good look at the tyres and make sure the meat is wearing evenly - often they will look mint on the outer edge and as bald as Greg Wallace's bonce on the inner edge.
Brakes are generally good and all the police spec cars will have been specced with the larger diameter brake discs. Rear calipers will seize from time to time and can be hard to diagnose as they will work nicely from cold and then seize up when the get warm - Blue tinged, cooked up rear discs is the tell tale sign. There is a known fault with the rear handbrake shoes chucked about on the internet with stories of them falling to bits and destroying the hubs but I've never seen this. Ideally fit genuine brake pads if you can as many OEM spec alternatives lack high speed bite and squeal like crazy.
Driving wise, they're very good out on the road with great manners and superb high speed stability (possibly one of the reasons the old bill liked them?) That said, they do crash about a bit at low speeds and can tramline on white lines. Don't expect fantastic economy from the T5 lump - around 25mpg average but then, if you're miser go and get a D5 or a bus pass. They tune up well for minimal money but I'd go a little carefully on upping the horsepower if its a gay-tronic auto. On the subject of the gay-tronic boxes, they need periodic flushing of the oil and fresh put in and its a good idea to have the software updated from time to time to up the shift pressures slightly to account for the wear tear on the box over time. Its an Aisin Warner box and has a bad rep but thats largely unjustified and they last well if looked after. If its a manual then make sure the dual mass flywheel isn't noisy or the gearchanges snatchy.
Edited by morgrp on Tuesday 8th September 02:28
dme123 said:
The alarm service is due to the battery in the backup sounder failing, you can replace the module or take it to bits and replace the battery. Or you can just ignore it, like I do.
I got this when I accidentally knocked off one of the little connectors that got to the wires in the side windows of the boot (Volvo Guard things). Just snapped it back on and it was okGassing Station | Volvo & Polestar | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff