S60 D5... owners
Discussion
A lex said:
Super Slo Mo said:
Well, following the complete absence of any interest in my car, it's gone into the garage for a new cambelt and MOT. Hopefully that'll spark a bit of enthusiasm (I've no idea why the cam belt might put people off, it's not an expensive job).
Failing that, it'll remain as a workhorse/tow car.
They are such great cars its one of the few things that every buyer has on the checklist??Failing that, it'll remain as a workhorse/tow car.
Stedman, give me a shout if you want to talk about it. Good luck BTW.
A lex said:
I had mine done last week too - the belt was showing signs of degradation and I had no proof it had ever been done (at 164k miles 
ops
How much are you paying for it? I paid £240 all in, including the full tensioner kit too.
The local Volvo specialist has quoted me £190 (genuine parts). I never thought to ask about the tensioner kit, I'd assume he'll do it as he's pretty good, but I will check.opsHow much are you paying for it? I paid £240 all in, including the full tensioner kit too.
Of course, it was all too good to be true. Picked the car up this evening, it was running fine (apart from a speed related vibration, but I put that down to the tracking possibly being out), got a couple of miles from home and it lost pretty much all power. Managed to limp back (it'll barely get to 20 mph, and is pumping out black smoke).
It sounds like it's not running on all cylinders, so it could be that an injector's failed. Alternatives I'm thinking of is that the timing belt might have jumped a tooth.
There's not much I can do right now, the mechanic has gone on holiday, so the sale of it will need to be postponed until he comes back
.
It sounds like it's not running on all cylinders, so it could be that an injector's failed. Alternatives I'm thinking of is that the timing belt might have jumped a tooth.
There's not much I can do right now, the mechanic has gone on holiday, so the sale of it will need to be postponed until he comes back
.A lex said:
Ah poo - that sucks. Theres no way it can be a coincidence.
Where are you based?
Get a thread started on the Volvo UK Forums.....
I'm in North Staffs, about J15 on the M6 actually. Where are you based?
Get a thread started on the Volvo UK Forums.....
It's odd, it was running perfectly, I'd just had a bit of a blast along the local dual carriageway, at a pretty decent pace too (I'm still impressed with how well it gathers pace and how refined it is, even compared to my new Superb), it failed as I turned right on the roundabout at my junction.
Oh well, I guess these things happen. At least I'm not relying on it anymore.
A lex said:
Not familiar with that area of the country, but im sure a post on the Volvo Forums will turn up some sort of local specialist who can sort you out.
It was the local, highly regarded, specialist who did the job 
.I'll trailer it back to him when he's back in his workshop, probably the week after next. I doubt it's something I can sort on my driveway, although it's worth a shout I guess.
A lex said:
Ah, didnt realise it was in at a specialist, I read it as being a general local mechanic from your posts.....
Hope you get it sorted, cant imagine its going to be a coincidence.
I'll give him the benefit of the doubt, he's a decent chap. I'm open minded as to the cause at the moment.Hope you get it sorted, cant imagine its going to be a coincidence.
Hoddo said:
Viewing S60's at the weekend. Would value your thoughts on these two:
Option 1
Option 2
Do not worry about the postcode, it is an old one I have no use for these days
Auto or manual. Which would you go for and why?
In addition, what should I be looking for in the history files:
Timing belts - how often should these be changed according to the service book?
Injectors
Anything else?
Timing belt (off the top of my head I have no idea, might be worth googling it) Option 1
Option 2
Do not worry about the postcode, it is an old one I have no use for these days
Auto or manual. Which would you go for and why?
In addition, what should I be looking for in the history files:
Timing belts - how often should these be changed according to the service book?
Injectors
Anything else?
Injectors - If idle is smooth and even leave them alone.
Anything else:
The concentric Clutch slave cylinder is a poor design, it goes pop from anything between 75-175k (mine went at 150k), if it's been replaced and they have proof then that is a bonus, if it hasn't been done there's not a lot you can do other than bear it in mind (over £1k job if/when)..
The intercoolers are made of cheese and swell-up over time (less time if remaped) mine is on 2nd intercooler (I got hold of a used OEM intercooler FOC, but if it goes again I'll be throwing a 3rd party one on it)
Suspension parts can knock and clunk, usually the front and/or rear drop-links...quick, cheap and easy DIY fix
OEM Rear shoes (handbrake) friction material come away from the plate and wreck the hub...if it hasn't had decent ones fitted then get to it pronto (Mine has MINTEX discs, pads and shoes all round)
I think that's about it for now...might come back to this post from home later once I've had a think.
A lex said:
100% option 1.
Its the facelift with the better electrics and nicer interior/lights etc.
Id always take a manual over an auto with these too - the autoboxes all go pop at some point.
Really? I thought Volvo Autos were bombproof, apart from the sIts the facelift with the better electrics and nicer interior/lights etc.
Id always take a manual over an auto with these too - the autoboxes all go pop at some point.
tty General Motors (who else would it be 
) one in my XC90 T6 Edited by y2blade on Wednesday 31st October 15:32
Hoddo said:
Viewing S60's at the weekend. Would value your thoughts on these two:
Option 1
Option 2
Do not worry about the postcode, it is an old one I have no use for these days
Auto or manual. Which would you go for and why?
In addition, what should I be looking for in the history files?
-Timing belts - how often should these be changed according to the service book?
-Injectors
-Anything else?
I am based near Northwich (S.Manchester). If anyone knows of a good car for sale or would like to kill some time searching for good 'uns on my behalf I would be most appreciative. Budget around £3k.
Nothing more to add other than that old postcode you've used is about 3 miles from my Aunties house. I know the salt works well!Option 1
Option 2
Do not worry about the postcode, it is an old one I have no use for these days
Auto or manual. Which would you go for and why?
In addition, what should I be looking for in the history files?
-Timing belts - how often should these be changed according to the service book?
-Injectors
-Anything else?
I am based near Northwich (S.Manchester). If anyone knows of a good car for sale or would like to kill some time searching for good 'uns on my behalf I would be most appreciative. Budget around £3k.
Edited by Hoddo on Wednesday 31st October 15:27
y2blade said:
Hoddo said:
Viewing S60's at the weekend. Would value your thoughts on these two:
Option 1
Option 2
Do not worry about the postcode, it is an old one I have no use for these days
Auto or manual. Which would you go for and why?
In addition, what should I be looking for in the history files:
Timing belts - how often should these be changed according to the service book?
Injectors
Anything else?
Timing belt (off the top of my head I have no idea, might be worth googling it) Option 1
Option 2
Do not worry about the postcode, it is an old one I have no use for these days
Auto or manual. Which would you go for and why?
In addition, what should I be looking for in the history files:
Timing belts - how often should these be changed according to the service book?
Injectors
Anything else?
Injectors - If idle is smooth and even leave them alone.
Anything else:
The concentric Clutch slave cylinder is a poor design, it goes pop from anything between 75-175k (mine went at 150k), if it's been replaced and they have proof then that is a bonus, if it hasn't been done there's not a lot you can do other than bear it in mind (over £1k job if/when)..
The intercoolers are made of cheese and swell-up over time (less time if remaped) mine is on 2nd intercooler (I got hold of a used OEM intercooler FOC, but if it goes again I'll be throwing a 3rd party one on it)
Suspension parts can knock and clunk, usually the front and/or rear drop-links...quick, cheap and easy DIY fix
OEM Rear shoes (handbrake) friction material come away from the plate and wreck the hub...if it hasn't had decent ones fitted then get to it pronto (Mine has MINTEX discs, pads and shoes all round)
I think that's about it for now...might come back to this post from home later once I've had a think.
A lex said:
100% option 1.
Its the facelift with the better electrics and nicer interior/lights etc.
Id always take a manual over an auto with these too - the autoboxes all go pop at some point.
Really? I thought Volvo Autos were bombproof, apart from the sIts the facelift with the better electrics and nicer interior/lights etc.
Id always take a manual over an auto with these too - the autoboxes all go pop at some point.
tty General Motors (who else would it be ) one in my XC90 T6 Edited by y2blade on Wednesday 31st October 15:32
So much so that I'm handing mine over to my Mrs when I get it's replacement.
Got myself a cheap code reader today, it seems my car problem is related to the MAF, and unplugging it makes no difference to the rough running (although that's probably not very scientific). It's a second hand unit anyway that was fitted last year, so it's not unreasonable to assume it's dead.
Anyway, it seems I can get a genuine Bosch MAF off eBay for around £220, or an aftermarket one for around £32.
The Bosch part is stupidly priced (although I believe it's £300 from Volvo), but is the aftermarket one too much of a risk?
I'm obviously going to sell the car, as I no longer need it (as mentioned before I think), but don't want to stitch a new owner up. On the other hand, why pay £220 if a £32 one will do.
I suspect I know what the answer will be.
Anyway, it seems I can get a genuine Bosch MAF off eBay for around £220, or an aftermarket one for around £32.
The Bosch part is stupidly priced (although I believe it's £300 from Volvo), but is the aftermarket one too much of a risk?
I'm obviously going to sell the car, as I no longer need it (as mentioned before I think), but don't want to stitch a new owner up. On the other hand, why pay £220 if a £32 one will do.
I suspect I know what the answer will be.
Super Slo Mo said:
Got myself a cheap code reader today, it seems my car problem is related to the MAF, and unplugging it makes no difference to the rough running (although that's probably not very scientific). It's a second hand unit anyway that was fitted last year, so it's not unreasonable to assume it's dead.
Anyway, it seems I can get a genuine Bosch MAF off eBay for around £220, or an aftermarket one for around £32.
The Bosch part is stupidly priced (although I believe it's £300 from Volvo), but is the aftermarket one too much of a risk?
I'm obviously going to sell the car, as I no longer need it (as mentioned before I think), but don't want to stitch a new owner up. On the other hand, why pay £220 if a £32 one will do.
I suspect I know what the answer will be.
You've answered your own question.Anyway, it seems I can get a genuine Bosch MAF off eBay for around £220, or an aftermarket one for around £32.
The Bosch part is stupidly priced (although I believe it's £300 from Volvo), but is the aftermarket one too much of a risk?
I'm obviously going to sell the car, as I no longer need it (as mentioned before I think), but don't want to stitch a new owner up. On the other hand, why pay £220 if a £32 one will do.
I suspect I know what the answer will be.
btw what code reader did you use? I was under the impression the cheap ones wouldn't read Volvo codes accurately.
Yeah, I reckon it'll be a waste of thirty quid and I'll end up buying the proper one anyway. I always quote the old 'buy cheap, buy twice' mantra to people, but then end up ignoring my own advice anyway.
A chap on T5D5 who is a volvo mechanic (I think), suggested a cheap U480 code reader, which I got. No idea if it's reading correctly or not. Fault code has come up as P0101, which shows on the OBD II fault list as MAF, and loosely translates to the Volvo code of BCM 0101 Communication between control modules. Communication problems with the engine control module (ECM). At least, in my head it does.
Part no is Bosch 0280 218 088, best price I've found so far for the real thing is £220 off eBay.
However, part of me is thinking that the safest option is to tow/trailer it back to my mechanic and have him do a proper code check on it, and just bite the bullet on getting the proper parts.
A chap on T5D5 who is a volvo mechanic (I think), suggested a cheap U480 code reader, which I got. No idea if it's reading correctly or not. Fault code has come up as P0101, which shows on the OBD II fault list as MAF, and loosely translates to the Volvo code of BCM 0101 Communication between control modules. Communication problems with the engine control module (ECM). At least, in my head it does
.Part no is Bosch 0280 218 088, best price I've found so far for the real thing is £220 off eBay.
However, part of me is thinking that the safest option is to tow/trailer it back to my mechanic and have him do a proper code check on it, and just bite the bullet on getting the proper parts.
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