S60 D5... owners
Discussion
martinrpeachey said:
y2blade said:
Stripped and cleaned the rear calipers on MissB's S60 last night.
Fitted new dust seals too, run it round the village after and the drop-links are knocking AGAIN......f***ing great!
I've never known a car like these for s
t suspension design, they wear like no tomorrow! as soon as you stop one knock it's something else knocking again, yes the alignment has been done (get's checked/adjusted every year while being MOT'd).
Mornin Chris Fitted new dust seals too, run it round the village after and the drop-links are knocking AGAIN......f***ing great!
I've never known a car like these for s
t suspension design, they wear like no tomorrow! as soon as you stop one knock it's something else knocking again, yes the alignment has been done (get's checked/adjusted every year while being MOT'd).
You been using pattern parts again lol
Meyle HD drop links seem to be a good upgrade at about 40 quid, very sturdy.
My rear brakes are due soon but I'll probably upgrade to XC90 disks and calipers to match the fronts.
If you're up my way any time, give me a shout, I'll give it a look over if you want.
Thanks for the offer buddy.
APRIL 2012....I'll check how many miles they have done but off the top of my head about the same as the previous (El Cheapo) ones.
y2blade said:
Threw the new drop-links on tonight, the old ones are completely shot even though they have only done about 15k!!!!
The new ones are the MEYLE HD ones, so should last a lot longer!
The new ones are the MEYLE HD ones, so should last a lot longer!
That'll theach me for not reading too far back lol.
It's weird tho - my rear droplinks are the origionals with 205555 miles on them and still fine.
Probably best to confirm the droplinks before swapping them. I had a weird knock in mine for ages, checked all the suspension and found nothing.
Turned out to be one of little M-R-P's aluminium drink bottles rolling around in the spare wheel well and tapping on the side!
It amazes me, when I read about the P2 on various forums, how there's a huge divide between the reliable ones and the not-so reliable ones. Admittedly, mine has been a lot of work to get up to scratch but considering the 732.50 I spent on the DIM and the 1100 on the clutch, the 3700 the car owes me in under 3 years isn't that bad. Especially when you consider the mods I've thrown at it too.
Sometimes it's best to just draw a line and get rid, I can understand your frustration mate.
It's weird tho - my rear droplinks are the origionals with 205555 miles on them and still fine.
Probably best to confirm the droplinks before swapping them. I had a weird knock in mine for ages, checked all the suspension and found nothing.
Turned out to be one of little M-R-P's aluminium drink bottles rolling around in the spare wheel well and tapping on the side!
It amazes me, when I read about the P2 on various forums, how there's a huge divide between the reliable ones and the not-so reliable ones. Admittedly, mine has been a lot of work to get up to scratch but considering the 732.50 I spent on the DIM and the 1100 on the clutch, the 3700 the car owes me in under 3 years isn't that bad. Especially when you consider the mods I've thrown at it too.
Sometimes it's best to just draw a line and get rid, I can understand your frustration mate.
martinrpeachey said:
That'll theach me for not reading too far back lol.
It's weird tho - my rear droplinks are the origionals with 205555 miles on them and still fine.
Probably best to confirm the droplinks before swapping them. I had a weird knock in mine for ages, checked all the suspension and found nothing.
Turned out to be one of little M-R-P's aluminium drink bottles rolling around in the spare wheel well and tapping on the side!
It amazes me, when I read about the P2 on various forums, how there's a huge divide between the reliable ones and the not-so reliable ones. Admittedly, mine has been a lot of work to get up to scratch but considering the 732.50 I spent on the DIM and the 1100 on the clutch, the 3700 the car owes me in under 3 years isn't that bad. Especially when you consider the mods I've thrown at it too.
Sometimes it's best to just draw a line and get rid, I can understand your frustration mate.
I know what you mean mate, don't get me wrong it has been "reliable" as such (the only time it let us down was the clutch slave and they can/do go on all cars).....It's just these annoying niggles that keep coming back around.It's weird tho - my rear droplinks are the origionals with 205555 miles on them and still fine.
Probably best to confirm the droplinks before swapping them. I had a weird knock in mine for ages, checked all the suspension and found nothing.
Turned out to be one of little M-R-P's aluminium drink bottles rolling around in the spare wheel well and tapping on the side!
It amazes me, when I read about the P2 on various forums, how there's a huge divide between the reliable ones and the not-so reliable ones. Admittedly, mine has been a lot of work to get up to scratch but considering the 732.50 I spent on the DIM and the 1100 on the clutch, the 3700 the car owes me in under 3 years isn't that bad. Especially when you consider the mods I've thrown at it too.
Sometimes it's best to just draw a line and get rid, I can understand your frustration mate.
The Clutch/dmf job took it pretty much to what the car is worth (I got the intercooler FOC ages back off a scrapper).
As per my comment on the second intercooler starting to swell (but not leaking yet) I'm not willing to throw any more lumps of cash at it....All the while it is running well I will let it do so! but if/when the "next" biggie rears it's head I'll scrap it after pulling all the sellable bits off.
You watch, it'll probably soldier-on for ages now
y2blade said:
I know what you mean mate, don't get me wrong it has been "reliable" as such (the only time it let us down was the clutch slave and they can/do go on all cars).....It's just these annoying niggles that keep coming back around.
The Clutch/dmf job took it pretty much to what the car is worth (I got the intercooler FOC ages back off a scrapper).
As per my comment on the second intercooler starting to swell (but not leaking yet) I'm not willing to throw any more lumps of cash at it....All the while it is running well I will let it do so! but if/when the "next" biggie rears it's head I'll scrap it after pulling all the sellable bits off.
You watch, it'll probably soldier-on for ages now
Interesting that you will strip parts. Is there a market for the bits?The Clutch/dmf job took it pretty much to what the car is worth (I got the intercooler FOC ages back off a scrapper).
As per my comment on the second intercooler starting to swell (but not leaking yet) I'm not willing to throw any more lumps of cash at it....All the while it is running well I will let it do so! but if/when the "next" biggie rears it's head I'll scrap it after pulling all the sellable bits off.
You watch, it'll probably soldier-on for ages now
I've got an S60 D5 with 115k on it and it has been faultless. All i've put on it is brakes and tyres but the car is i think developing a gearbox problem.
it's becoming impossible to get it into reverse at times and there is a knocking from the front left which i'm sure is just bushes.
But if, or when the time comes when it dies what parts are good to strip and sell?
it has heated leather fronts with electric memory drivers seat and supporting leather rear interior. Dolby stereo and speakers and in overall pretty good condition.
Engine is worth an easy thousand quid if it's running, this is the D5 not the T5.
I stripped my old v70 and got over £1,400 back for the parts and that was not including the engine which was scrap.
I ended up giving away most of the interior, the wings, bonnet, plus the three radiators, just cos I needed the space.
I stripped my old v70 and got over £1,400 back for the parts and that was not including the engine which was scrap.
I ended up giving away most of the interior, the wings, bonnet, plus the three radiators, just cos I needed the space.
That's a bit of an understatement. Took around 3 months I think. At the time the engine could have sold for a grand, in fact, just the cylinder head would have fetched that.
However, times change and if they're not worth that anymore, then I guess that's just how it is.
I suppose how much you can make depends on how many parts you wish to remove. I sold lots of little items at 10-20 quid a time, as well as much of the larger parts.
On the plus side, they're pretty easy cars to strip.
However, times change and if they're not worth that anymore, then I guess that's just how it is.
I suppose how much you can make depends on how many parts you wish to remove. I sold lots of little items at 10-20 quid a time, as well as much of the larger parts.
On the plus side, they're pretty easy cars to strip.
What are people's thoughts on the 2.5 T engine?
There is one at a main dealer near me, a 2.5 T SE Lux on a 56 plate with 51k on the clock up for £5489, they state they have done a Major service along with front discs and pads + 2 new tyres.
Does sound a bit high to me price wise but how much higher is it than it should be?
There is one at a main dealer near me, a 2.5 T SE Lux on a 56 plate with 51k on the clock up for £5489, they state they have done a Major service along with front discs and pads + 2 new tyres.
Does sound a bit high to me price wise but how much higher is it than it should be?
The 2.5T is the same engine ford used in the MK2 Focus ST/RS and also offered in the Kuga & Mondeo. So its a well tried and tested motor.
As for price two week ago I paid £7000 for a late 2008 58 reg 2.4D SE Manual which had done 16.5k with 5 Volvo Services and a years Volvo Selekt Warranty.
As for price two week ago I paid £7000 for a late 2008 58 reg 2.4D SE Manual which had done 16.5k with 5 Volvo Services and a years Volvo Selekt Warranty.
I've got the detuned 2.4D and it doesn't feel underpowered so buy on condition not engine would be my advice, from reading DPF issues seem to be less common with the larger engines than they are in 1.6-2.0 cars that are used in towns a lot.
I'll no doubt get my 2.4D remapped at some point (not till my years warranty is up though) and I'm favouring the Rica softlaoder that would allow me to buy a higher powered map but also to use lower power levels.
I'll no doubt get my 2.4D remapped at some point (not till my years warranty is up though) and I'm favouring the Rica softlaoder that would allow me to buy a higher powered map but also to use lower power levels.
kapiteinlangzaam said:
MLAM said:
Also is there much difference between the 185BHP D5 to the "Detuned" 2.4D at 163BHP?
Yes, about 22bhp!MLAM said:
Do these engines have manifold flap failure like the BMW engines?
The swirl flap actuator arm can fail, but its a simple and cheap fix.So the swirl flaps won't snap off and go into the engine like the BMW engines?
chrisw666 said:
I've got the detuned 2.4D and it doesn't feel underpowered so buy on condition not engine would be my advice, from reading DPF issues seem to be less common with the larger engines than they are in 1.6-2.0 cars that are used in towns a lot.
I'll no doubt get my 2.4D remapped at some point (not till my years warranty is up though) and I'm favouring the Rica softlaoder that would allow me to buy a higher powered map but also to use lower power levels.
Thanks for the feedback.I'll no doubt get my 2.4D remapped at some point (not till my years warranty is up though) and I'm favouring the Rica softlaoder that would allow me to buy a higher powered map but also to use lower power levels.
Looking around a few of the newer ones are cropping up now.
MLAM said:
Nice one.
For those Diesel owners, is the DPF version of the Diesel engine really that bad to avoid?
Also is there much difference between the 185BHP D5 to the "Detuned" 2.4D at 163BHP?
Do these engines have manifold flap failure like the BMW engines?
No flap failure that I'm aware of but the EGR can clog quit significantly. The new D5 is a twinturbo and quite punchy.For those Diesel owners, is the DPF version of the Diesel engine really that bad to avoid?
Also is there much difference between the 185BHP D5 to the "Detuned" 2.4D at 163BHP?
Do these engines have manifold flap failure like the BMW engines?
i have had my 2005 (54plate) s60 d5 auto for nearly 2 years now....absolutely love it and have done 15k trouble free miles.
Only thing i would say is that the turning circle is not great. Other than that i cannot fault it driving wise.
In the process of fitting some winter tyres on it, but soon will be time for a change.
Its silver with black leather heated seats
rear parking sensors
premium sound system (h850?) only thing that ive heard better is in a 2012 lexus with 19 speaker mark levinson system
full volvo service hsitory upto 105k then maintained by Craig Rawse volvo service centre (google him...probably the best independant guy to take your volvo to in yorkshire) currently at 121k
a full tank (£95ish) returned me 600miles which included a trip to london and back (400) and the rest around town....for a big car that is amazing especially considering i wasnt looking for the best economy on my drive down...plenty of power for normal sensible use.
when i bought it i had the gearbox oil changed and on the last service i had the rear brake shoes changed (lack of handbrake use...common on auto cars)
rear legroom is a little disappointing bu this had not been a problem until my duaghter grew taller and we had to push the passenger seat forward to give room for her legs (she still constantly kicks the back from ther baby seat!)
i can honestly say its one of the most comfortable cars ive owned...that together with not having to worry about where its parked etc, its been a joy to own and would recommend it to anyone.
mine will be coming up in the classified section very soon if anyone is interested.
Only thing i would say is that the turning circle is not great. Other than that i cannot fault it driving wise.
In the process of fitting some winter tyres on it, but soon will be time for a change.
Its silver with black leather heated seats
rear parking sensors
premium sound system (h850?) only thing that ive heard better is in a 2012 lexus with 19 speaker mark levinson system
full volvo service hsitory upto 105k then maintained by Craig Rawse volvo service centre (google him...probably the best independant guy to take your volvo to in yorkshire) currently at 121k
a full tank (£95ish) returned me 600miles which included a trip to london and back (400) and the rest around town....for a big car that is amazing especially considering i wasnt looking for the best economy on my drive down...plenty of power for normal sensible use.
when i bought it i had the gearbox oil changed and on the last service i had the rear brake shoes changed (lack of handbrake use...common on auto cars)
rear legroom is a little disappointing bu this had not been a problem until my duaghter grew taller and we had to push the passenger seat forward to give room for her legs (she still constantly kicks the back from ther baby seat!)
i can honestly say its one of the most comfortable cars ive owned...that together with not having to worry about where its parked etc, its been a joy to own and would recommend it to anyone.
mine will be coming up in the classified section very soon if anyone is interested.
My car needs some TLC.
It needs tyres and the steering feels very vague.
Last time i had the wheels off the bottom arm bushes looked done. Can someone point me in the direction of what i need to fix the steering feel? i'll buy the bits and get it done over a weekend.
Also, anyone got a link to a workshop manual with diagrams etc?
It needs tyres and the steering feels very vague.
Last time i had the wheels off the bottom arm bushes looked done. Can someone point me in the direction of what i need to fix the steering feel? i'll buy the bits and get it done over a weekend.
Also, anyone got a link to a workshop manual with diagrams etc?
Davie_GLA said:
My car needs some TLC.
It needs tyres and the steering feels very vague.
Last time i had the wheels off the bottom arm bushes looked done. Can someone point me in the direction of what i need to fix the steering feel? i'll buy the bits and get it done over a weekend.
Also, anyone got a link to a workshop manual with diagrams etc?
Firstly, tools...It needs tyres and the steering feels very vague.
Last time i had the wheels off the bottom arm bushes looked done. Can someone point me in the direction of what i need to fix the steering feel? i'll buy the bits and get it done over a weekend.
Also, anyone got a link to a workshop manual with diagrams etc?
With the wheel off, give everything you're planning to undo, a dam good going over with some Plus-Gas...
Let it soak for a few minutes. The bolts are on the other side of the subframe. On the drivers side (as you see here) These are a pig to undo as there's no room to get a socket on so I used a 17mm ring spanner and a rubber mallet.
Have a jack under the wishbone, just to hold it steady.
Pull the assembly toward you and use something to wedge between the wishbone and the subframe. Giving you access to the bush. You can see how bad this bush is as I can push the rod over to one side with my thumb.
With a 4mm drill, destroy some of the rubber to weaken it a bit...
Grab the rod with a couple of adjustable spanners and turn it in one direction until you hear a crunch. then keep turning and eventually POP, out it comes!
Burn the old rubber off the rod.
So as not to get the rod too hot, burn it for a few minutes then let it cool. Wipe it with a rag and repeat 4 or 5 times until you end up with a clean rod...
In the intervals between burnings, grab a hacksaw and remove the blade. Thread it through the hole in the wishbone and re-attach the handle. Find the square cut out in the remains of the bush-outer and cut through into it. Be careful not to cut the steel sleeve press-fitted into the wishbone.
Now hammer a blunt screwdriver between the bush-outer and the steel sleeve, next to where you cut and twist.
Keep prying the bush into itself and after a while, it will just pull out.
Now, off to the shed with the rod and the new polybush. You can push the rod in part of the way by hand (plenty of copperslip required)
Now put it in a vice and press it about half way, until the bit of the rod that's inside the bush reaches the vice jaw.
Now, with a socket or anything to keep the rod away from the vice jaw (I used 2 little dumbell weights, taped together), press the rod all the way in. You should hear a "pop"
Now, back to the car!
coat the inside of the wishbone hole with good ol' copperslip
Using your socket (dumbell weights) the same way as before, use a G-clamp to push the bush into the hole in the wishbone. It WILL try to go sideways so force the clamp square. You'll see that about half of the lip round the end of the bush goes into the hole. The rest, you have to gently push in with a screwdriver. once the whole end of the bush is in, it will easily press all the way in with the G-clamp.
You'll know it's in when the lip pops out the other side and locks in.
Turn the rod so the rounded side faces the subframe and bolt it back on. AS for torque settings? I did it up as hard as I could by hand with a spanner and tw@tted it twice with a rubber mallet
IMPORTANT TIP...
Remove the hub bolt and while you're working, just push the driveshaft into the gearbox whenever you move anything. If the shaft pops out of the inner CV, you're in big doodoo
coat the inside of the wishbone hole with good ol' copperslip
Using your socket (dumbell weights) the same way as before, use a G-clamp to push the bush into the hole in the wishbone. It WILL try to go sideways so force the clamp square. You'll see that about half of the lip round the end of the bush goes into the hole. The rest, you have to gently push in with a screwdriver. once the whole end of the bush is in, it will easily press all the way in with the G-clamp.
You'll know it's in when the lip pops out the other side and locks in.
Turn the rod so the rounded side faces the subframe and bolt it back on. AS for torque settings? I did it up as hard as I could by hand with a spanner and tw@tted it twice with a rubber mallet
IMPORTANT TIP...
Remove the hub bolt and while you're working, just push the driveshaft into the gearbox whenever you move anything. If the shaft pops out of the inner CV, you're in big doodoo
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