S60 D5... owners
Discussion
wiliferus said:
I know it's a V70, so may not belong in this thread, but I picked up a 'Holy Grail' Euro 3 facelift manual today. 05 plate, immaculate inside and out, a wedge of bills where no expense has been spared. 110k on the clock. So far, absolutely chuffed.
And with a sunroof too - very nice! Manual? Fancy selling it?I'm considering an S60 as a commuter hack.
Do I have it right that the holy grail is a 54 Plate or 05 Plate 163hp with Black engine cover?
Are these badged as 2.4D or D5 does anyone know?
Are there any other giveaways or is engine cover the primary one?
Failing obtaining the holy grail, I guess as late as possible EU3 say 2003-2004 is still a good bet?
Cheers!
Do I have it right that the holy grail is a 54 Plate or 05 Plate 163hp with Black engine cover?
Are these badged as 2.4D or D5 does anyone know?
Are there any other giveaways or is engine cover the primary one?
Failing obtaining the holy grail, I guess as late as possible EU3 say 2003-2004 is still a good bet?
Cheers!
Would I also be right in thinking that if it's got 163HP and is Badged D5 then this has to be the EU3 engine as the 163hp EU4 was badged as 2.4D as the 185hp got the D5 title?
So the cremé de la cremé is a 54 plate / 05 plate with 163HP, a black engine cover, a D5 badge on the boot, in SE trim with 11 speaker dolby system? Time to go hunting
So the cremé de la cremé is a 54 plate / 05 plate with 163HP, a black engine cover, a D5 badge on the boot, in SE trim with 11 speaker dolby system? Time to go hunting
j4ck100 said:
Would I also be right in thinking that if it's got 163HP and is Badged D5 then this has to be the EU3 engine as the 163hp EU4 was badged as 2.4D as the 185hp got the D5 title?
So the cremé de la cremé is a 54 plate / 05 plate with 163HP, a black engine cover, a D5 badge on the boot, in SE trim with 11 speaker dolby system? Time to go hunting
You're right on all counts, the EU3 is badged D5 and 163hp.So the cremé de la cremé is a 54 plate / 05 plate with 163HP, a black engine cover, a D5 badge on the boot, in SE trim with 11 speaker dolby system? Time to go hunting
Of course you should always check the engine cover (or count the gears, if you get past 5 it's not the one you want) as it's not unheard of for the EU4 to be misbadged...
j4ck100 said:
Is yours a holy grail edition too?
She sure is! (well, minus the 11 speaker stereo) The only bit that can be a bit marmite is the light stone interior, but I quite like that.I waited until just after my deposit was paid and the deal was complete to explain to the trader why he was apparently getting so much interest in that particular car lol
ETA - mine is not so much holy grail but rocking horse ste in that she is actually a 55 reg, which is by far and away the latest plate I've ever seen an EU3 registered on.
j4ck100 said:
It does indeed.I've bloody jinxed it now!
If i end up spending that kind of money i will throw the car away!
I am looking for a new car but whilst it's running like a dream i don't see the point.
that car above is too good to be true.
And that was on an immaculate FVSH XC90 that was motorway driven daily.
If i end up spending that kind of money i will throw the car away!
I am looking for a new car but whilst it's running like a dream i don't see the point.
that car above is too good to be true.
kapiteinlangzaam said:
rat840771 said:
The euro 4 version is also a brilliant car and i have never had any issues with EGR, DPF etc.
So even if you go post 2005 it will still be great.
I did nearly €2.5k worth of sensors and DPF on my euro4 over the period of 2 months. When they go, they go expensive.So even if you go post 2005 it will still be great.
And that was on an immaculate FVSH XC90 that was motorway driven daily.
9 years on the belt, not 6. Mileage is correct. Make sure you do the tensioner as well, obviously.
Note all spelling mistakes are as this is being typed on android.
Mileage isn't as important as maintenence and I really mean that. These engines like frequent oil changes (more than volvo specify) and they like quality fully synthetic. Thats actually a little more than just an opinion but to clarify how I know would reveal things I'd rather keep at least semi private and off a public board.
What to look out for? Brief list and I'm sure I've put this up before but here are some starters:
Back brakes. The friction material has a habit of separating from the metal shoe. Its more serious than it sounds as it can wreck the hub and that's expensive. Check your handbrake and for noise at the wheel.
Axle bolts. Oft diagnosed wrongly as a clicking and duff CV joint. Its not. Its a 15 pound bolt. Order and fit the uprated XC90 bolts to cure it.
Upper front strut top hats. The bearing goes and you get a rattle. Usually around 100k is when death happens. You'll hear and feel it.
Intercooler as mentioned above.
Alternator clutch bearing. Dont ignore it or it can chuck a serpentine belt into the timing belt and thats that. You'll hear it screech and scream usually on a cold start.
Rear calipers. Known weak point caused by people not changing rear pads at the 5mm point and the piston becoming over extended and dirt getting past the seal. You can buy rebuild kits from big red though.
Lower engine torque mount. Look for vibration.
Upper engine mount. Same again.
EGR. They clag up and really blunt the fuel economy and performance. Dont delete it though as you get a warning light on the dash that needs coded out. Buy a blank with a hole in it instead. It lets enough through to fool the ecu.
Power steering. Check the fluid. If its red, walk away quickly. Its green chf fluid it needs and red swells the seals and kills the rack.
Abs rings on the front. Made of cheese and a common reason for the light coming on.
Maf. They get dirty at 80k plus but can be rescued with a can of cleaner. Ive done several. Makes a real mpg difference as well.
Fuel filters. DO NOT USE PATTERN FILTERS. Use genuine Volvo. Pattern ones collapse and give headaches like you wouldn't believe. Ditto pollen filters. Pattern never fit and cause a whoosh.
Rear exhaust hanger. Rots and causes wobbly exhaust. You can buy a dedicated replacement bolt on clasp hanger from your favourite internet site. Search volvo exhaust hanger, its that common.
Thats it pretty much. Everything above is cheap and easy to fix (or avoid when buying) so dont be out off. They are fantastic machines. Ive actually given the company bmw 5 series back because my old volvo feels sturdier, has better seats and gear change and really drives rings around it!
Note all spelling mistakes are as this is being typed on android.
Mileage isn't as important as maintenence and I really mean that. These engines like frequent oil changes (more than volvo specify) and they like quality fully synthetic. Thats actually a little more than just an opinion but to clarify how I know would reveal things I'd rather keep at least semi private and off a public board.
What to look out for? Brief list and I'm sure I've put this up before but here are some starters:
Back brakes. The friction material has a habit of separating from the metal shoe. Its more serious than it sounds as it can wreck the hub and that's expensive. Check your handbrake and for noise at the wheel.
Axle bolts. Oft diagnosed wrongly as a clicking and duff CV joint. Its not. Its a 15 pound bolt. Order and fit the uprated XC90 bolts to cure it.
Upper front strut top hats. The bearing goes and you get a rattle. Usually around 100k is when death happens. You'll hear and feel it.
Intercooler as mentioned above.
Alternator clutch bearing. Dont ignore it or it can chuck a serpentine belt into the timing belt and thats that. You'll hear it screech and scream usually on a cold start.
Rear calipers. Known weak point caused by people not changing rear pads at the 5mm point and the piston becoming over extended and dirt getting past the seal. You can buy rebuild kits from big red though.
Lower engine torque mount. Look for vibration.
Upper engine mount. Same again.
EGR. They clag up and really blunt the fuel economy and performance. Dont delete it though as you get a warning light on the dash that needs coded out. Buy a blank with a hole in it instead. It lets enough through to fool the ecu.
Power steering. Check the fluid. If its red, walk away quickly. Its green chf fluid it needs and red swells the seals and kills the rack.
Abs rings on the front. Made of cheese and a common reason for the light coming on.
Maf. They get dirty at 80k plus but can be rescued with a can of cleaner. Ive done several. Makes a real mpg difference as well.
Fuel filters. DO NOT USE PATTERN FILTERS. Use genuine Volvo. Pattern ones collapse and give headaches like you wouldn't believe. Ditto pollen filters. Pattern never fit and cause a whoosh.
Rear exhaust hanger. Rots and causes wobbly exhaust. You can buy a dedicated replacement bolt on clasp hanger from your favourite internet site. Search volvo exhaust hanger, its that common.
Thats it pretty much. Everything above is cheap and easy to fix (or avoid when buying) so dont be out off. They are fantastic machines. Ive actually given the company bmw 5 series back because my old volvo feels sturdier, has better seats and gear change and really drives rings around it!
Edited by Hainey on Friday 21st April 15:08
Hainey said:
Bonefish Blues said:
You forgot alarm sounder battery units at the 8-10 year mark
Yeah mine had that. I put a full new unit in 2 years ago and it's gone again. I'll just do a fuse pull this time.It wasnt mean to be a 'be all end all' though, just a quick type out heads up.
It was a good brain dump - enough to frighten the uncommitted!
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