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Composite Guru
Original Poster
407 posts
72 months
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Big Fat Fatty said: Stunning looking model, I love the work on the Merlin engine. I'm working on one at the moment but it's not in a plane  and if you don't mind I would like to use your work as reference for my engine detailing Thanks. Go for it, i have added most of the larger hardlines and pipes but electrical harnesses i had to give up on as they are too damn small. 
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Big Fat Fatty
2,586 posts
25 months
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Thanks mate, I appreciate it  This is what I'm working on, it's a 1:24 Airfix Merlin from the mk1a, in a Mercedes  it's a bit further along now and though it's not as detailed as the Tamiya version it's good enough for what I want to do Sorry for the thread hijack
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chris watton
12,361 posts
129 months
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Wow, didn't see this thread! I have just bought the very same kit (and will get the Mustang, too), to try out some painting techniques. I bought the Eduard PE and masking set to go with it. It is a great looking kit - and you have done a great job on yours!
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Composite Guru
Original Poster
407 posts
72 months
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Composite Guru
Original Poster
407 posts
72 months
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perdu
3,255 posts
68 months
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She is looking better each time I look
I like the paint chip preparation
nice
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dr_gn
6,921 posts
53 months
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perdu said: She is looking better each time I look
I like the paint chip preparation
nice I like the idea of the 'real' paint chipping too, but I wouldn't have the balls to do it for real. Guess you don't really know whether it worked out until it's to late?
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perdu
3,255 posts
68 months
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What CG is planning works
I made a 1/35 scale "Moby Dick" style Nantucket whaler diorama many years ago and I did this in long streaks along the plasticard grain over light wood colour then painted the "faded cracking" white paint along the gunnels in enamel
When dry the maskol was lifted out gently leaving flaking, cracked paint pulling off the surface.
Looked rather good (if I say so my...)
I have a IPMS mag photo somewhere
But back to this, it is a masterclass, I'm enjoying every second of it
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dr_gn
6,921 posts
53 months
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perdu said: What CG is planning works
I made a 1/35 scale "Moby Dick" style Nantucket whaler diorama many years ago and I did this in long streaks along the plasticard grain over light wood colour then painted the "faded cracking" white paint along the gunnels in enamel
When dry the maskol was lifted out gently leaving flaking, cracked paint pulling off the surface.
Looked rather good (if I say so my...)
I have a IPMS mag photo somewhere
But back to this, it is a masterclass, I'm enjoying every second of it Yeah I've seen the technique used before, but how do you know the maskol is in the right place and pattern to look good - before you paint the final coats?
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Composite Guru
Original Poster
407 posts
72 months
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dr_gn said: Yeah I've seen the technique used before, but how do you know the maskol is in the right place and pattern to look good - before you paint the final coats? The mask is white so you can see where it's been applied. Stonechipping is very light and random so it's not hard to do as long as you don't over do it. I plan to pick out some of the rivet heads too all over to make it look like the paint has flaked off the heads like it does on badly prepped aircraft surfaces. The spit would of been painted pretty quickly so the paint would of been pretty rough really. I also want to paint invasion stripes on too so they are going to have to have a hand painted look with a rough edge to them and very worn on the leading edges which is going to be a challenge.
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Composite Guru
Original Poster
407 posts
72 months
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Composite Guru said: The mask is white so you can see where it's been applied. Stonechipping is very light and random so it's not hard to do as long as you don't over do it. I plan to pick out some of the rivet heads too all over to make it look like the paint has flaked off the heads like it does on badly prepped aircraft surfaces. The spit would of been painted pretty quickly so the paint would of been pretty rough really.
I also want to paint invasion stripes on too so they are going to have to have a hand painted look with a rough edge to them and very worn on the leading edges which is going to be a challenge. Pic added to 1st post to show the chipping effect.
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dr_gn
6,921 posts
53 months
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Composite Guru said: Composite Guru said: The mask is white so you can see where it's been applied. Stonechipping is very light and random so it's not hard to do as long as you don't over do it. I plan to pick out some of the rivet heads too all over to make it look like the paint has flaked off the heads like it does on badly prepped aircraft surfaces. The spit would of been painted pretty quickly so the paint would of been pretty rough really.
I also want to paint invasion stripes on too so they are going to have to have a hand painted look with a rough edge to them and very worn on the leading edges which is going to be a challenge. Pic added to 1st post to show the chipping effect. Are the previous pictures in order? The highlighted panel lines are shown before the silver coat. Presumably the preshading was done after the silver / grey coats, otherwise it would have got obscured by the silver and subsequent camoflague coats?
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Composite Guru
Original Poster
407 posts
72 months
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dr_gn said: Are the previous pictures in order? The highlighted panel lines are shown before the silver coat. Presumably the preshading was done after the silver / grey coats, otherwise it would have got obscured by the silver and subsequent camoflague coats? Yes, I had a bit of change of direction when I sprayed the silver. Tbh I was just having a play with pre shading but I'm not really a fan. I normally do it all at the end as you get a better result. Some go way over the top with pre shading and models look stupid when done too much. I'm a trained aircraft engineer by trade so I have an idea what panel lines are like on aircraft, they aren't thick black lines, they are no more than a couple of mm thick on real aircraft so shouldn't highlight majorly on a model.
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dr_gn
6,921 posts
53 months
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Composite Guru said: dr_gn said: Are the previous pictures in order? The highlighted panel lines are shown before the silver coat. Presumably the preshading was done after the silver / grey coats, otherwise it would have got obscured by the silver and subsequent camoflague coats? Yes, I had a bit of change of direction when I sprayed the silver. Tbh I was just having a play with pre shading but I'm not really a fan. I normally do it all at the end as you get a better result. Some go way over the top with pre shading and models look stupid when done too much. I'm a trained aircraft engineer by trade so I have an idea what panel lines are like on aircraft, they aren't thick black lines, they are no more than a couple of mm thick on real aircraft so shouldn't highlight majorly on a model. I agree about the panel lines - I've settled on pre-shading, very lightly, over the panel lines, followed by a dark wash that I almost completely remove with a thinners soaked cloth. The pre-shading on it's own is pretty much enough. Depends on the model though, Academy/Tamiya/Revell usually have fine panel lines. I think that a lot of weathering on models is as much about what you expect to see as what would actually be visible on the scaled-down real thing. After all, I reckon that if you magically scaled down a 1:1 matt-finished aircraft, it would look like a high gloss finish becasue the surface roughness of the paint would be 72 or 32 or 48 times less.
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chris watton
12,361 posts
129 months
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dr_gn said: Composite Guru said: dr_gn said: Are the previous pictures in order? The highlighted panel lines are shown before the silver coat. Presumably the preshading was done after the silver / grey coats, otherwise it would have got obscured by the silver and subsequent camoflague coats? Yes, I had a bit of change of direction when I sprayed the silver. Tbh I was just having a play with pre shading but I'm not really a fan. I normally do it all at the end as you get a better result. Some go way over the top with pre shading and models look stupid when done too much. I'm a trained aircraft engineer by trade so I have an idea what panel lines are like on aircraft, they aren't thick black lines, they are no more than a couple of mm thick on real aircraft so shouldn't highlight majorly on a model. I agree about the panel lines - I've settled on pre-shading, very lightly, over the panel lines, followed by a dark wash that I almost completely remove with a thinners soaked cloth. The pre-shading on it's own is pretty much enough. Depends on the model though, Academy/Tamiya/Revell usually have fine panel lines. I think that a lot of weathering on models is as much about what you expect to see as what would actually be visible on the scaled-down real thing. After all, I reckon that if you magically scaled down a 1:1 matt-finished aircraft, it would look like a high gloss finish becasue the surface roughness of the paint would be 72 or 32 or 48 times less. You are quite right, and most do not take the scale into account - some detail would be barely, if at all visible on some scale, and when they are accentuated, the model is in danger of becoming a 'caricature'. I have seen weathering so heavy that the end result looks like a model of a subject that has just been dragged out of the sea after 60 years! Model ships for example - I see a lot of modellers who have spent hours adding caulking to decks and other planking on small scale models, usually in black or dark grey, when even on the full sized version it is hardly visible – it looks wrong to my eyes. The best matt varnish I have found (even after using the Vallejo varnish) is, believe it or now, Ronseal Mattcoat polyurethane varnish – when thinned down to be sprayed, it gives a fantastic finish. (I have never ever used gloss or satin with any model)
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dr_gn
6,921 posts
53 months
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chris watton said: dr_gn said: Composite Guru said: dr_gn said: Are the previous pictures in order? The highlighted panel lines are shown before the silver coat. Presumably the preshading was done after the silver / grey coats, otherwise it would have got obscured by the silver and subsequent camoflague coats? Yes, I had a bit of change of direction when I sprayed the silver. Tbh I was just having a play with pre shading but I'm not really a fan. I normally do it all at the end as you get a better result. Some go way over the top with pre shading and models look stupid when done too much. I'm a trained aircraft engineer by trade so I have an idea what panel lines are like on aircraft, they aren't thick black lines, they are no more than a couple of mm thick on real aircraft so shouldn't highlight majorly on a model. I agree about the panel lines - I've settled on pre-shading, very lightly, over the panel lines, followed by a dark wash that I almost completely remove with a thinners soaked cloth. The pre-shading on it's own is pretty much enough. Depends on the model though, Academy/Tamiya/Revell usually have fine panel lines. I think that a lot of weathering on models is as much about what you expect to see as what would actually be visible on the scaled-down real thing. After all, I reckon that if you magically scaled down a 1:1 matt-finished aircraft, it would look like a high gloss finish becasue the surface roughness of the paint would be 72 or 32 or 48 times less. You are quite right, and most do not take the scale into account - some detail would be barely, if at all visible on some scale, and when they are accentuated, the model is in danger of becoming a 'caricature'. I have seen weathering so heavy that the end result looks like a model of a subject that has just been dragged out of the sea after 60 years! Model ships for example - I see a lot of modellers who have spent hours adding caulking to decks and other planking on small scale models, usually in black or dark grey, when even on the full sized version it is hardly visible – it looks wrong to my eyes. The best matt varnish I have found (even after using the Vallejo varnish) is, believe it or now, Ronseal Mattcoat polyurethane varnish – when thinned down to be sprayed, it gives a fantastic finish. (I have never ever used gloss or satin with any model) This caught my eye on Britmodeller recently: http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?showt...Fair enough it's Airfix, so the panel lines are going to be trenches, but still...that's weathered to within an inch of its life.
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chris watton
12,361 posts
129 months
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dr_gn said:  That's the model I had in mind when writing about the 'salvaged after 60 years under sea' bit! I seen that yesterday. (Along with a Tamiya Lancaster - http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?showt... ). AFV's I can undertstand, and on the whole, the weathering looks right on them, but not planes so much.
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Composite Guru
Original Poster
407 posts
72 months
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This model was commended and a winner at this years IPMS show at Telford. I hated it with a passion. I pretty sure someone had naughty pics of the judge!!  I don't know why but a lot of modellers spend time masking invasion stripes onto models and that wasn't the case. D Day was prepared for very quickly so stripes were slapped on with rollers or paint brushes not sprayed from what i'm aware. Mine is going to look a little like this if i can get the look perfected. 
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dr_gn
6,921 posts
53 months
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Yep, if that Spitfire won a prize, I might enter next year! I think the picture of the Spitfire with stripes was probably a decoy aircraft, [ETA maybe that's not right: http://spitfiresite.com/2007/12/painting-d-day-str... ] but I know that stripes weren't always applied very carefully in the field. I think it's true to say that some aircraft left the factory with stripes already on, so were very neat? I always think that the problem with applying stripes like that to a model is that it can easily look like the modeller has made a mess of the painting, even though it's probably true to life... I do like the look of them on a model though, but sometimes they look a bit flash IMO. When I built my Tempest I decided to half do the job, and picked a subject with just the underside of the fuselage painted! http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?showt...
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Skii
1,016 posts
60 months
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Composite Guru said: This model was commended and a winner at this years IPMS show at Telford. I hated it with a passion. I pretty sure someone had naughty pics of the judge!! That is downright shocking.
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