Discussion
theshrew said:
As above it will be your connections. Easy sorted once you have found them. Well worth putting power taps in (if you can with digital) Also wont do any harm to clean the track even if it looks clean. Think the stuff is called plebbys or something like that.
Its looking good mate once you give it a few tweeks it will run great.
Im having a thought that I might dismantle the track and build it back up in the kitchen which will allow me to sort any poor connections plus I'll be able to measure and cut the holes for the raised section. Its looking good mate once you give it a few tweeks it will run great.
Good idea?
While its out I'm going to cut a hatch in the board, it's not as simple as using a grabber to retrieve a crashed car. I might even extend the track toward the back by 1x straight so the hatch will be between lanes.
It's a bit rudimentary but when I was setting up tracks as a kid I'd often get dead areas of track.
As a teenager my cunning plan was to nick a bulb from a mini that is in a holder with 2 spade type connectors that are exactly the width of the rails on the track, it also has a plastic lug between them which handily fits between the rails and acts as a guide.
Press it on to the circuit, hold the controller down and the bulb lights - drag it round the circuit til it goes out and there is your problem joint.
Still got the bulb and still use it sometimes.
As a teenager my cunning plan was to nick a bulb from a mini that is in a holder with 2 spade type connectors that are exactly the width of the rails on the track, it also has a plastic lug between them which handily fits between the rails and acts as a guide.
Press it on to the circuit, hold the controller down and the bulb lights - drag it round the circuit til it goes out and there is your problem joint.
Still got the bulb and still use it sometimes.
Mark. said:
It's a bit rudimentary but when I was setting up tracks as a kid I'd often get dead areas of track.
As a teenager my cunning plan was to nick a bulb from a mini that is in a holder with 2 spade type connectors that are exactly the width of the rails on the track, it also has a plastic lug between them which handily fits between the rails and acts as a guide.
Press it on to the circuit, hold the controller down and the bulb lights - drag it round the circuit til it goes out and there is your problem joint.
Still got the bulb and still use it sometimes.
The last time I had a track like this I was about 10 so my dad did most of the building. I did actually phone him yesterday and he told me exactly what you say Mark. Apparently we had a light bulb in a holder with two wires to press on the track. As a teenager my cunning plan was to nick a bulb from a mini that is in a holder with 2 spade type connectors that are exactly the width of the rails on the track, it also has a plastic lug between them which handily fits between the rails and acts as a guide.
Press it on to the circuit, hold the controller down and the bulb lights - drag it round the circuit til it goes out and there is your problem joint.
Still got the bulb and still use it sometimes.
I do have a shocking memory!
Roadru77er said:
Mark
When you say a ''Mini'' bulb with 2 spade connectors do you mean a stop/tail light bulb common part No 480?
No, it's from the dash of an original Mini. Amber in colour, lord knows what it connected to, Dad probably had enough spare Mini parts to build another car!When you say a ''Mini'' bulb with 2 spade connectors do you mean a stop/tail light bulb common part No 480?
If I can find it I could take a pic and upload it.
falkster said:
Im having a thought that I might dismantle the track and build it back up in the kitchen which will allow me to sort any poor connections plus I'll be able to measure and cut the holes for the raised section.
Good idea?
While its out I'm going to cut a hatch in the board, it's not as simple as using a grabber to retrieve a crashed car. I might even extend the track toward the back by 1x straight so the hatch will be between lanes.
Get the idea with taking it apart etc but it's possible you could do that then get another problem when you put it back again. Good idea?
While its out I'm going to cut a hatch in the board, it's not as simple as using a grabber to retrieve a crashed car. I might even extend the track toward the back by 1x straight so the hatch will be between lanes.
It's a pretty simple fix in place as it is now. Run the car where and where it stops the problem will be in that area. Use the bulb idea or simply just the car either way it will show you if the track joins are ok. Just have a prod about at the joins.
While your messing about with it find out if power taps work on digital it is really worth putting them in so you don't get and power drop to the cars. I would imagine this will be even worse if your running more than 2 cars on that size of track.
Not sure if the bulb idea will work with digital the digital feed is not a 12v dc supply, a decoder is fitted into the cars which processes power and command codes. I guess as you cannot run an anologue car on a digi track....
Just use a car,drive it slowly you will see at which join it stops, or use a car with built in lights.
as others have mentioned a small flatbladed screwdriver can be used to tweak joins or a pair of long nose pliers is also handy. Some also use tin foil between the joins. Do it in situ, as even if you cure the problem in the kitchen the dismantle/reassemble will likley cause you grief again.
If you have not done so allready then sign up to slot forum its the pistonheads of the slot car world, plenty of advice and tips and soe stunning tracks
http://www.slotforum.com/forums/index.php?s=37e06a...
Just use a car,drive it slowly you will see at which join it stops, or use a car with built in lights.
as others have mentioned a small flatbladed screwdriver can be used to tweak joins or a pair of long nose pliers is also handy. Some also use tin foil between the joins. Do it in situ, as even if you cure the problem in the kitchen the dismantle/reassemble will likley cause you grief again.
If you have not done so allready then sign up to slot forum its the pistonheads of the slot car world, plenty of advice and tips and soe stunning tracks
http://www.slotforum.com/forums/index.php?s=37e06a...
bristolracer said:
Not sure if the bulb idea will work with digital the digital feed is not a 12v dc supply, a decoder is fitted into the cars which processes power and command codes. I guess as you cannot run an anologue car on a digi track....
Just use a car,drive it slowly you will see at which join it stops, or use a car with built in lights.
as others have mentioned a small flatbladed screwdriver can be used to tweak joins or a pair of long nose pliers is also handy. Some also use tin foil between the joins. Do it in situ, as even if you cure the problem in the kitchen the dismantle/reassemble will likley cause you grief again.
If you have not done so allready then sign up to slot forum its the pistonheads of the slot car world, plenty of advice and tips and soe stunning tracks
http://www.slotforum.com/forums/index.php?s=37e06a...
Some great advice from everyone thanks. Just use a car,drive it slowly you will see at which join it stops, or use a car with built in lights.
as others have mentioned a small flatbladed screwdriver can be used to tweak joins or a pair of long nose pliers is also handy. Some also use tin foil between the joins. Do it in situ, as even if you cure the problem in the kitchen the dismantle/reassemble will likley cause you grief again.
If you have not done so allready then sign up to slot forum its the pistonheads of the slot car world, plenty of advice and tips and soe stunning tracks
http://www.slotforum.com/forums/index.php?s=37e06a...
My reasoning behind the dismantle was to, as well as cure the joint issue, sort the measuring/cutting and mock up of the bridge sections?
The table is pretty solid but it's not idea for me to be climbing up and down every two minutes.
Love the foil idea though!!! Might do that aswell!!
I was sent a link to the slotforum by a friend and it's that forum and some of the amazing tracks both digital and analogue that made me want to do this.
I've decided it's going to be more of a marathon than a sprint now as I want it to be right.
I just got a new Slot Car book, and it suggests the use of a Circuitwriter Pen (search that on Amazon.co.uk).
Book is here:
http://books.google.co.uk/books/about/Slot_Car_Rac...
The preview actually has the bit about using the pen.
Book is here:
http://books.google.co.uk/books/about/Slot_Car_Rac...
The preview actually has the bit about using the pen.
With regards to the joints - turn the piece of track over and at the end of each rail bend the tab over. with a screw driver. It should give you a tighter connection.
Rub some INOX 3 over the rails, protects from corrosion and enhances connectivity. It will save you having to scrub it with Pleby's in about a years time.
I've just switched to digital and it is awesome. Although I've have to alter my track layout to encompass no R1 bends and to have only R2 & R3. This is so I can run with 5 pacer cars at a decent speed without them flying off. I spend more time racing myself ass opposed to with mates, my wife just laughs at it all!
My track only stays up for about 6months a year - basically until the conservatory (its home) starts to get too hot.
Here's a little build diary of all of my tracks over the last year or so.
http://entertainment.webshots.com/slideshow/578812...
Current layout
Rub some INOX 3 over the rails, protects from corrosion and enhances connectivity. It will save you having to scrub it with Pleby's in about a years time.
I've just switched to digital and it is awesome. Although I've have to alter my track layout to encompass no R1 bends and to have only R2 & R3. This is so I can run with 5 pacer cars at a decent speed without them flying off. I spend more time racing myself ass opposed to with mates, my wife just laughs at it all!
My track only stays up for about 6months a year - basically until the conservatory (its home) starts to get too hot.
Here's a little build diary of all of my tracks over the last year or so.
http://entertainment.webshots.com/slideshow/578812...
Current layout
Right, managed to spend an hour on it at this busy time of year.
I've now got a fully working track, both cars, both sides and all possible options.
Only issue I've got is, one side of the track, on the back 50% it seems a bit slower than the other side. Doesn't matter which car I use it's still a bit slower?
As I extended it from the original design the track is over 70ft. If it was lack of power it world affect both sides of the track over the same sections right?
Could it just be more tweaking?
I've now got a fully working track, both cars, both sides and all possible options.
Only issue I've got is, one side of the track, on the back 50% it seems a bit slower than the other side. Doesn't matter which car I use it's still a bit slower?
As I extended it from the original design the track is over 70ft. If it was lack of power it world affect both sides of the track over the same sections right?
Could it just be more tweaking?
falkster said:
Only issue I've got is, one side of the track, on the back 50% it seems a bit slower than the other side. Doesn't matter which car I use it's still a bit slower?
You need to make sure this is the track your competitors use 
Seriously though, interesting situation. Possibly dirty rails on that side of that section?
Got my Scalextric club R8 the other day, need to get the track set up to see if it's faster than the current quickest 911 GT3R. I notice the rear axle on the R8 has quite a bit of lateral movement in it any other members out there noticed the same?
Mark. said:
Got my Scalextric club R8 the other day, need to get the track set up to see if it's faster than the current quickest 911 GT3R. I notice the rear axle on the R8 has quite a bit of lateral movement in it any other members out there noticed the same?
I recieved my R8 from the club aswell recently,but i am a lightweight & always keep them in the box!But i agree its surprising the difference between different cars behaviour.
cerb4.5lee said:
Mark. said:
Got my Scalextric club R8 the other day, need to get the track set up to see if it's faster than the current quickest 911 GT3R. I notice the rear axle on the R8 has quite a bit of lateral movement in it any other members out there noticed the same?
I recieved my R8 from the club aswell recently,but i am a lightweight & always keep them in the box!But i agree its surprising the difference between different cars behaviour.
Don't really use mine either, track has not been up for a few years, but I display all mine in a grid format in my office
Mark. said:
Go on, I dare you - just crack the box open a little and check the rear axle
Don't really use mine either, track has not been up for a few years, but I display all mine in a grid format in my office
Excellent! would like to put mine on display aswell,they are all tucked away in a drawer,i will investigate the rear axle now you mention it.Don't really use mine either, track has not been up for a few years, but I display all mine in a grid format in my office
The missus thinks i am a big kid for liking scalextric at 38,but i have always loved it & this thread temps me into setting a track up in the loft!
falkster said:
My wife mocks me for having my helmets on display in my playstation room.
Lol now you really are on the same lengh as me. Scalextric, playstation and helmets. Although I've only got the 1 helmet so far but keep dropping hints to the mrs I want more Senna helmets. Glad you got it sorted. I've bought a bit of stuff for mine but nothing more I've got a new Puppy who is really ill so I've been spending more time at the vets etc than anything. Hopefully things will get better.
As for your speed issue prob your connection on one side of the track. Each join acts as a resistor so the worse your connectors are the less power you will have on that lane. Did you find out about power taps ? If it's the same as non digital this will make things better.
Also get the stuff one of the other guys mentions its supposed to be really good Its one of the things I bought the other week. Not tried it yet but people rave about it on slot forums so it can't be bad. Think it was £8.99 so worth a bash
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