Respray of a die-cast model

Respray of a die-cast model

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ferrisbueller

Original Poster:

29,260 posts

226 months

Saturday 7th April 2012
quotequote all
I've got an old Burago model I'd like to freshen up and spray it a different colour.

I've stripped it down to this point:






What's the best way to proceed, just spray over the exisiting colour or strip it back to the metal and repaint? If it needs to be stripped, what should I use?

Also, can I reuse the existing transfers for the badges or will removing them render them useless? If so, can I get replacements?

Thanks

dr_gn

16,140 posts

183 months

Saturday 7th April 2012
quotequote all
ferrisbueller said:
I've got an old Burago model I'd like to freshen up and spray it a different colour.

I've stripped it down to this point:






What's the best way to proceed, just spray over the exisiting colour or strip it back to the metal and repaint? If it needs to be stripped, what should I use?

Also, can I reuse the existing transfers for the badges or will removing them render them useless? If so, can I get replacements?

Thanks
Nitromors paint striper will remove the old paint.

The stickers will probably be knackered if they're the self-adhesive ones, or definitely knackered if they're waterslides.

Many years ago, I restored a few on my old Bburago models; I wrote to them asking for the appropriate spares (including transfers) and they sent me the lot f.o.c.



ferrisbueller

Original Poster:

29,260 posts

226 months

Saturday 7th April 2012
quotequote all
Thanks doc, knew you'd be along to advise!

Looking on eBay there are replacement decals around so that's not a huge issue.

Looking at the Nitromors tin it reads like the onset of the apocolypse! How do you use it?

SV8Predator

2,102 posts

164 months

Saturday 7th April 2012
quotequote all
There is certainly no need to remove the original finish.

Just make sure you have prepared it correctly for the new finish.

Using a paint stripper leads to problems if the stripper is not fully removed from every microscopic crevice before applying the new primer.

dr_gn

16,140 posts

183 months

Saturday 7th April 2012
quotequote all
ferrisbueller said:
Thanks doc, knew you'd be along to advise!

Looking on eBay there are replacement decals around so that's not a huge issue.

Looking at the Nitromors tin it reads like the onset of the apocolypse! How do you use it?
Yeah, Nitromors (like many paint strippers) is nasty stuff, so follow all the safety advice on the tin. I use it outside - put the part on thick layers of newspaper, and wear rubber gloves, apply it with an old paintbrush and leave it for half an hour or so. Most of the paint should then scrape off with the paintbrush. You might have to apply it a few times to get everything off.

Then when you've got as much crud off as you can, thoroughly wash the shell in a bucket of very hot water, and rub everything especially the intricate bits with a toothbrush & detergent. Word of warning: when the hot water hits the Nitromors it seems to vapourise and if you inhale it, it's probably like inhaling sulphuric acid ie not nice.

IIRC I think I finished the process off by rubbing the shell all over with a Brillo pad before leaving it to dry in a warm place overnight and priming.

The above definitely worked well with an old Bburago E-Type shell I re-painted, so it should be OK for you unless they changed the paint type to something that resists Nitromors.

Red Firecracker

5,276 posts

226 months

Sunday 8th April 2012
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Always always always remove the original paint. These models have such a heavy paint coat on them that a lot of the detail cast in has been lost.

As an example;

Original;


DSC_7978 by Kelvin Pope, on Flickr

Stripped and repainted;


DSC_8050 by Kelvin Pope, on Flickr

Both the door handle and the rubbing strip are now far more defined.

However, paint removal is now a bit trickier than before due to the fact that Nitromors, the previous go to paint stripper of choice for these models, has had its formula changed and is now all eco-friendly. For that, read, it doesn't work very well.
After some (expensive) experimentation, B&Q own brand paint and varnish stripper (white plastic bottle) is the best of the new bunch. It's still friendly to bunnies, but does remove paint, unlike new Nitromors.

Once the paint is removed and you have washed the model thoroughly a couple of times, de-nib the casting with a soft steel brush to prepare for primer. Then it's just paint as per normal.

mickk

28,772 posts

241 months

Sunday 8th April 2012
quotequote all
Search for caustic soda pearls on Ebay, cheaper than Nitromors and twice as quick. Two tablespoons in a plastic container onto the model then add boiling water. Not the other way around.

Obviously outside using gloves and all the other H&S requirements. Good luck.

ferrisbueller

Original Poster:

29,260 posts

226 months

Sunday 8th April 2012
quotequote all
Niromors stage complete. Shell is 95% clean. What's best to use to take of the last few specs and even out a few imperfections in the casting? Sand it down?

dr_gn

16,140 posts

183 months

Sunday 8th April 2012
quotequote all
ferrisbueller said:
Niromors stage complete. Shell is 95% clean. What's best to use to take of the last few specs and even out a few imperfections in the casting? Sand it down?
Either apply the Nitromors again on the spots, or just Brillo pad it off. I might have used a brass suede brush on mine, can't remember. I guess you could use 1200 wet and dry too.

dr_gn

16,140 posts

183 months

Sunday 8th April 2012
quotequote all
Red Firecracker said:
However, paint removal is now a bit trickier than before due to the fact that Nitromors, the previous go to paint stripper of choice for these models, has had its formula changed and is now all eco-friendly. For that, read, it doesn't work very well.
I used some new Nitromors last week, and I must admit it looked, felt and smelled exactly the same as the stuff I used 15 years ago - it just ripped all traces of paint away in a few minutes.

Red Firecracker

5,276 posts

226 months

Sunday 8th April 2012
quotequote all
Failed completely for me and it was noticeably different in smell and consistency.

mickk said:
Search for caustic soda pearls on Ebay, cheaper than Nitromors and twice as quick. Two tablespoons in a plastic container onto the model then add boiling water. Not the other way around.

Obviously outside using gloves and all the other H&S requirements. Good luck.
Caustic soda (available in B&Q, Homebase etc) is excellent for stripping paint (model in pot, add boiling water, THEN add caustic soda, NEVER add boiling water to caustic) but does not work well on modern paint. It works so well on old old Dinkys that you can end up with no model at all.

Edited by Red Firecracker on Sunday 8th April 16:24

ferrisbueller

Original Poster:

29,260 posts

226 months

Sunday 8th April 2012
quotequote all
I had some old nitromors in stock.

Here it is after two applications of that, some careful scraping of tight edges and some wet and dry sand paper.

Looks pretty good.






Off to Halfords later in the week for some primer and some TdF blue.

mickk

28,772 posts

241 months

Sunday 8th April 2012
quotequote all
Red Firecracker said:
Failed completely for me and it was noticeably different in smell and consistency.

mickk said:
Search for caustic soda pearls on Ebay, cheaper than Nitromors and twice as quick. Two tablespoons in a plastic container onto the model then add boiling water. Not the other way around.

Obviously outside using gloves and all the other H&S requirements. Good luck.
Caustic soda (available in B&Q, Homebase etc) is excellent for stripping paint (model in pot, add boiling water, THEN add caustic soda, NEVER add boiling water to caustic) but does not work well on modern paint. It works so well on old old Dinkys that you can end up with no model at all.

Edited by Red Firecracker on Sunday 8th April 16:24
Strange, I've always done it the other wat around and never had a problem.

Red Firecracker

5,276 posts

226 months

Sunday 8th April 2012
quotequote all
mickk said:
Strange, I've always done it the other wat around and never had a problem.
Every guide I've ever read about the use of caustic has said to never add the water to the caustic. I've been using it for years and having seen it get out of hand myself, I've certainly no desire to try it that way myself. It's nasty nasty stuff.

Red Firecracker

5,276 posts

226 months

Sunday 8th April 2012
quotequote all
ferrisbueller said:
I had some old nitromors in stock.

Here it is after two applications of that, some careful scraping of tight edges and some wet and dry sand paper.

Looks pretty good.






Off to Halfords later in the week for some primer and some TdF blue.
Looking good. Don't forget to wash it very well in soapy water and then once rinsed off and dry give it a brush with a steel brush. The small ones Halfords sell are ideal.

mickk

28,772 posts

241 months

Sunday 8th April 2012
quotequote all
Red Firecracker said:
mickk said:
Strange, I've always done it the other wat around and never had a problem.
Every guide I've ever read about the use of caustic has said to never add the water to the caustic. I've been using it for years and having seen it get out of hand myself, I've certainly no desire to try it that way myself. It's nasty nasty stuff.
Perhaps I should stick to Nitromors then..hehe

dr_gn

16,140 posts

183 months

Sunday 8th April 2012
quotequote all
ferrisbueller said:
I had some old nitromors in stock.

Here it is after two applications of that, some careful scraping of tight edges and some wet and dry sand paper.

Looks pretty good.






Off to Halfords later in the week for some primer and some TdF blue.
Why not get some Autosol and a Dremel buffing wheel and polish it?

Only Joking.

ferrisbueller

Original Poster:

29,260 posts

226 months

Sunday 8th April 2012
quotequote all
The quality of the shell is actually better than I thought it would be but I'm not sure it's buffable wink

Primer is easy to come by obviously - even cans on eBay for 4 quid delivered. Not sure what trade price will be at Halfords. TdF appears to be somewhat more difficult. I think Halfords will mix me a small aerosol can for not very much so I'll try that in the week.

ferrisbueller

Original Poster:

29,260 posts

226 months

Friday 13th July 2012
quotequote all
Thread resurrection ahoy.

For a number of reasons I'd dropped this for a while. Got the shell primed up and bought some generic dark blue off eBay to spray it up having been quoted 15 quid for pukka TdF.....

The generic dark blue is guff.

Any of you keener modellers know where I can cross match a more readily available manufacturer's dark blue against Ferrari's TdF. Trade price on a can of generic (insert mass producing manufacturer here) paint is only a few quid. 15 quid on TdF is a bit extreme given the value of the model is probably less than that!

SAB888

3,230 posts

206 months

Friday 13th July 2012
quotequote all
Isn't it possible to go to a body shop and ask them to mix up some paint from the genuine manufacturer's code for the specific paint, then put it into a spray can?