Show us your R/C

[IroningMan]

I have a couple of Tamiya cars, a Blazer stadium truck - used to be a Mustang, TA02 chassis - and a Baja Champ.

Both still have 7.2v NiCad batteries which are well past their best: what's the current solution for optimum running time?

[lufbramatt]

IroningMan said:

I have a couple of Tamiya cars, a Blazer stadium truck - used to be a Mustang, TA02 chassis - and a Baja Champ.

Both still have 7.2v NiCad batteries which are well past their best: what's the current solution for optimum running time?

Be interested in this too. Have a Schumacher SST apex(?) chassis with some decent motors and MRT ESC, when I tried to get it going recently the nicads were toast. Would like to get a nice new bodyshell for it, maybe some sort of classic car if possible and have a go with it.

I'm guessing that old 27mhz radio gear is a no-no nowadays?

ETA: just seen you can get a E39 M5 bodyshell. Seeing as I'm in the market for a e39 saloon, might make a 1/10 replica of the car I end up buying, get the graphics guys at work to make some numberplates

Edited by lufbramatt on Wednesday 21st May 12:24

[Bungleaio]

Nothing wrong with 27mhz.

Lipo batteries are the norm really now but you can still get Nimh. If you are using lipo with old speedos make sure you put a voltage cut off as they don't like going below 6v.

You should get 20 mins run time out of a set of lipo's.

[Tiberius]

lufbramatt said:

IroningMan said:

I have a couple of Tamiya cars, a Blazer stadium truck - used to be a Mustang, TA02 chassis - and a Baja Champ.

Both still have 7.2v NiCad batteries which are well past their best: what's the current solution for optimum running time?

Be interested in this too. Have a Schumacher SST apex(?) chassis with some decent motors and MRT ESC, when I tried to get it going recently the nicads were toast. Would like to get a nice new bodyshell for it, maybe some sort of classic car if possible and have a go with it.

I'm guessing that old 27mhz radio gear is a no-no nowadays?

You can get Tamiya connector lipo battery stick packs for about 20 quid and you will need a lipo charger and a low voltage alarm for them as well.

http://www.vapextech.co.uk/acatalog/copy_of_copy_o...


I still run all mine on a mixture of 27mhz and 40mhz and they run fine, in some ways its better because most people have moved to digital there is less interference than there was.

[IroningMan]

Cheers - I'll have a look for some LiPos.

[y2blade]

Fast & Furious RC.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ARDw_hGEk_8

I though it was good

[PanzerCommander]

I would if it were me:

2.4Ghz radio (do model shops still sell the 27mhz stuff??)
New motor Electronic speed controller (nothing too hot just a more modern motor)
bearing kit
Biggest 7.2V NiMH pack you can find with a decent charger.

There is no real need to go down the Brushless and LiPo route (imho) unless you want to go crazy fast.

I have a 7.2v 5200mAh NiMH "wolf" pack in my Tamiya King Tiger tank and it provides around 1.5 hours of run time (I kid you not) on the stock twin 380 motors. Modern systems and batteries are very efficient, even on my Traxxas Slash 4x4 I get 40 minutes of off road bashing out of a 5000mAh 11.1v LiPo Pack.

[lufbramatt]

Tiberius said:

lufbramatt said:

IroningMan said:

I have a couple of Tamiya cars, a Blazer stadium truck - used to be a Mustang, TA02 chassis - and a Baja Champ.

Both still have 7.2v NiCad batteries which are well past their best: what's the current solution for optimum running time?

Be interested in this too. Have a Schumacher SST apex(?) chassis with some decent motors and MRT ESC, when I tried to get it going recently the nicads were toast. Would like to get a nice new bodyshell for it, maybe some sort of classic car if possible and have a go with it.

I'm guessing that old 27mhz radio gear is a no-no nowadays?

You can get Tamiya connector lipo battery stick packs for about 20 quid and you will need a lipo charger and a low voltage alarm for them as well.

http://www.vapextech.co.uk/acatalog/copy_of_copy_o...


I still run all mine on a mixture of 27mhz and 40mhz and they run fine, in some ways its better because most people have moved to digital there is less interference than there was.

Thanks. I was using 4mm round plugs+sockets with 2x3cell saddle packs, I don't think stick packs fit in the old Schumacher chassis as the drive belt runs up the middle. NiMH stick packs have got a lot cheaper recently, just a pain that I'd have to take them to bits and re-solder them.

My old speedo was top of the range at the time, the guys that owned MRT (not sure if they're still going) ran the Ashford club I used to go to, which later moved to an outside track at Burham near Canterbury. My motors were £50 odd quid 12 turn jobbies that were plenty quick enough for me

[MrBig]

cianha said:

I like that, warts and all! Might be an idea to retire the MSC, perhaps to a display case, in fovour of the logner runtimes an ESC would give?

Good point. Will do that at the weekend. Have one lying about.

Now for a slightly quicker motor...

[lel]

one I've just built, scx10 dingo

[khevolution]

was that a full kit or did you just put motor esc and receiver in? really want one of these for my collection one day, just feel i don't have the terrain around me to really do it justice.

[MBBlat]

lel said:

one I've just built, scx10 dingo

Nice kits - here's mine SCX10 Honcho (same chasis, different body)with a few extras
Axial Honcho front view by MBBlat, on Flickr
Axial Honcho rear view by MBBlat, on Flickr

Added a bit more bling to the wraith, plus a 3S 11.1v LiPo, its now even quicker, but breaks the front suspenson a lot.
Wraith with blossom 2 by MBBlat, on Flickr

[Windymiller]

C.A.R. said:

Love the Lunchboxes, Parma shells are still available from Time Tunnel Models though if you need a spare!

I recently finished my M03-R Mini. The headlights work and I'm just waiting on the brave pills before its' maiden run (outside of the kitchen floor...)

What paint did you use for the chrome details? Looks almost chrome-plated?

[C.A.R.]

I used Alclad II paint, from memory it came in an aerosol. Tip is to use very fine coats and not over-layer it, it then needs backing with black paint but only once it has completely dried.

It was a nightmare to mask and paint! But the outcome was well worth it. Just got to gather the courage to paint my other cars now...

[cianha]

I've never had such good result with Alclad II, that looks great. Tamiya sell a chrome kit with the Mini brightwork seaprately, I have one at home, but never got around to fitting it. Seeing yours is giving me the itch to dig out my MO3 again!

[Waynester]

Taigen Pro 1:16 Jagdpanther







Rest of the collection, mainly Taigen, Torro & Heng Long

[Athlon]

Just finished, I love these old Tamiya re-releases!

[HARTLEYHARE1]

That brings back memories. Outstanding

[HARTLEYHARE1]

That brings back memories. Outstanding

[Ray Luxury-Yacht]

Athlon said:

Just finished, I love these old Tamiya re-releases!

Marvellous. Done with a bit more attention to detail than my re-re build last year.

I quickly lost the mirrors and exhaust after the first few spirited runs

Can't remember if I have posted a pic of mine, but here it is on Bournemouth beach last summer:




(ETA: Note doughnut markings in the sand )