The 1/10 offroad RC thread
Discussion
theboyfold said:
Arif110 said:
Nope!! Your ESC seems to be the 'Pro' version!! And your motor has lovely fins on it. What country are you in?
I went for the ST primarily because of the tyres it came with - as I liked the look and behaviour on grass with those. My other car is a fifth-scale Maverick Blackout V2 - but it doesn't have a normal engine anymore!! The ST looked much like the Maverick - which I liked.
I'm in the UK, bought it in a store in Berkshire, Apex Models. I went for the ST primarily because of the tyres it came with - as I liked the look and behaviour on grass with those. My other car is a fifth-scale Maverick Blackout V2 - but it doesn't have a normal engine anymore!! The ST looked much like the Maverick - which I liked.
This has just happened to mine, which I understand is a common fault. This means I have to replace it, right? Yes? Then, if I am replacing that, I'll need to do other bits? Right? Yes? Good....
http://www.asiatees.com/model?HPI-Bullet-MT-Flux-U...All the hop-up parts that Asiatees do for the ST and MT flux. Send my apologies to your bank balance
Get the drive shafts as well when you order.
rhinochopig said:
Here you go chap. Full of ally goodness http://www.asiatees.com/model?HPI-Bullet-MT-Flux-U...
All the hop-up parts that Asiatees do for the ST and MT flux. Send my apologies to your bank balance
Get the drive shafts as well when you order.
Hmmmm... Much danger lurks here. Which wheels do you have again?! http://www.asiatees.com/model?HPI-Bullet-MT-Flux-U...All the hop-up parts that Asiatees do for the ST and MT flux. Send my apologies to your bank balance
Get the drive shafts as well when you order.
theboyfold said:
rhinochopig said:
Here you go chap. Full of ally goodness http://www.asiatees.com/model?HPI-Bullet-MT-Flux-U...
All the hop-up parts that Asiatees do for the ST and MT flux. Send my apologies to your bank balance
Get the drive shafts as well when you order.
Hmmmm... Much danger lurks here. Which wheels do you have again?! http://www.asiatees.com/model?HPI-Bullet-MT-Flux-U...All the hop-up parts that Asiatees do for the ST and MT flux. Send my apologies to your bank balance
Get the drive shafts as well when you order.
Anyway I followed this VVV chaps ideas re wheels and tyres - the vid tells you what you need. He's on a few of the forums too.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1pLcn8iyO_s
These are fitted with Proline Badlands which offer way better traction that the ST or MT wheels but at a fraction of the weight.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/like/281246487772?limghl...
Mine is then fitted with this body.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RC-Car-1-10-Ferrari-Enzo...
Their shop sells about 30 different shells that will fit if you mod the arches.
Seeing this thread makes me want to go and find out what happened to my Team Associated RC10 B3, hopefully my parents haven't chucked it away and it's in a box somewhere.
I spent quite a lot on it back in the day but it's most likely archaic and out dated now, (had an 11T motor which was quick for the day, battery lasted about 5 minutes) looking on hobbyking I'm amazed by how much the price of rc stuff has dropped.
Went through Crystal Palace last month and they were racing 1/8th scale nitrous on the racetrack, the noise they make is so loud. Gonna get a Mazda rx-8 shell and paint it the same colour as my car so I have a scale model.
I spent quite a lot on it back in the day but it's most likely archaic and out dated now, (had an 11T motor which was quick for the day, battery lasted about 5 minutes) looking on hobbyking I'm amazed by how much the price of rc stuff has dropped.
Went through Crystal Palace last month and they were racing 1/8th scale nitrous on the racetrack, the noise they make is so loud. Gonna get a Mazda rx-8 shell and paint it the same colour as my car so I have a scale model.
rhinochopig said:
RPM Revolver wheels in black. Forget which model now - there are lots. Think mine are to fit the Traxxas Jato rear - you need to make sure they are driven wheels, i.e. they have the hex or spline drive and you need to buy the correct hex adapter - the bullet one is an odd size. My first attempt ended up with me buying some fronts which are free spinning so useless.
Anyway I followed this VVV chaps ideas re wheels and tyres - the vid tells you what you need. He's on a few of the forums too.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1pLcn8iyO_s
These are fitted with Proline Badlands which offer way better traction that the ST or MT wheels but at a fraction of the weight.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/like/281246487772?limghl...
Mine is then fitted with this body.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RC-Car-1-10-Ferrari-Enzo...
Their shop sells about 30 different shells that will fit if you mod the arches.
Some good info there, my bank card is trying to hide from me at the moment! Anyway I followed this VVV chaps ideas re wheels and tyres - the vid tells you what you need. He's on a few of the forums too.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1pLcn8iyO_s
These are fitted with Proline Badlands which offer way better traction that the ST or MT wheels but at a fraction of the weight.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/like/281246487772?limghl...
Mine is then fitted with this body.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RC-Car-1-10-Ferrari-Enzo...
Their shop sells about 30 different shells that will fit if you mod the arches.
You don't happen to have a link for the drive shafts do you, I can't see them on that page. Thanks!
theboyfold said:
rhinochopig said:
RPM Revolver wheels in black. Forget which model now - there are lots. Think mine are to fit the Traxxas Jato rear - you need to make sure they are driven wheels, i.e. they have the hex or spline drive and you need to buy the correct hex adapter - the bullet one is an odd size. My first attempt ended up with me buying some fronts which are free spinning so useless.
Anyway I followed this VVV chaps ideas re wheels and tyres - the vid tells you what you need. He's on a few of the forums too.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1pLcn8iyO_s
These are fitted with Proline Badlands which offer way better traction that the ST or MT wheels but at a fraction of the weight.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/like/281246487772?limghl...
Mine is then fitted with this body.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RC-Car-1-10-Ferrari-Enzo...
Their shop sells about 30 different shells that will fit if you mod the arches.
Some good info there, my bank card is trying to hide from me at the moment! Anyway I followed this VVV chaps ideas re wheels and tyres - the vid tells you what you need. He's on a few of the forums too.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1pLcn8iyO_s
These are fitted with Proline Badlands which offer way better traction that the ST or MT wheels but at a fraction of the weight.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/like/281246487772?limghl...
Mine is then fitted with this body.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RC-Car-1-10-Ferrari-Enzo...
Their shop sells about 30 different shells that will fit if you mod the arches.
You don't happen to have a link for the drive shafts do you, I can't see them on that page. Thanks!
untakenname said:
Seeing this thread makes me want to go and find out what happened to my Team Associated RC10 B3, hopefully my parents haven't chucked it away and it's in a box somewhere.
I spent quite a lot on it back in the day but it's most likely archaic and out dated now, (had an 11T motor which was quick for the day, battery lasted about 5 minutes) looking on hobbyking I'm amazed by how much the price of rc stuff has dropped.
Went through Crystal Palace last month and they were racing 1/8th scale nitrous on the racetrack, the noise they make is so loud. Gonna get a Mazda rx-8 shell and paint it the same colour as my car so I have a scale model.
Mate, you should go dig it out. I saw my old Losi XX in the shed, rusting and feeling a bit sorry for itself. But I thought it's good to rebuild it to top spec as more of a shelf queen for old times sake, and race a new kit. You can get a new kit for like £200 or so, and trying to find vintage parts is hard (and expensive) enough to put anyone off racing one especially offroad.I spent quite a lot on it back in the day but it's most likely archaic and out dated now, (had an 11T motor which was quick for the day, battery lasted about 5 minutes) looking on hobbyking I'm amazed by how much the price of rc stuff has dropped.
Went through Crystal Palace last month and they were racing 1/8th scale nitrous on the racetrack, the noise they make is so loud. Gonna get a Mazda rx-8 shell and paint it the same colour as my car so I have a scale model.
I've gone a bit over the top on the rebuild, but it was my first proper RC and I'd like to keep it in good health looking good! It's a good project also. If only I could afford to build it to this spec when I was 16!
rhinochopig said:
Thanks, that's been added to the cart 
Spent a while hunting and found my old rc car in a box in the roof space of the garage, unfortunately time had not been kind and the batteries in the receiver have leaked everywhere and lots of stuff is corroded.
S1MMA said:
Mate, you should go dig it out. I saw my old Losi XX in the shed, rusting and feeling a bit sorry for itself. But I thought it's good to rebuild it to top spec as more of a shelf queen for old times sake, and race a new kit. You can get a new kit for like £200 or so, and trying to find vintage parts is hard (and expensive) enough to put anyone off racing one especially offroad.
I've gone a bit over the top on the rebuild, but it was my first proper RC and I'd like to keep it in good health looking good! It's a good project also. If only I could afford to build it to this spec when I was 16!
Did some research and the Thunder Tiger Pheonix is a rebadged RC10B3 so I may get one of them and swap the parts, popped out to the high street but Beatties/Modelzone has shutdown I've gone a bit over the top on the rebuild, but it was my first proper RC and I'd like to keep it in good health looking good! It's a good project also. If only I could afford to build it to this spec when I was 16!
untakenname said:
Did some research and the Thunder Tiger Pheonix is a rebadged RC10B3 so I may get one of them and swap the parts, popped out to the high street but Beatties/Modelzone has shutdown
B3's were the dogs danglers of off road cars maybe 10 years ago. Im more a t/c man but think it won the World Champs etc. You will be able to find parts for it they were that popular. As for the 1/8th you saw at Crystal Palace . Ive raced very fast T/C mainly electric buy also some nitro, I have zero idea how the hell those guys do it they are just crazy fast not just in a straight line but they have so much grip around the corners its unreal pretty much the F1 of the R/C world. Pitty more tracks arnt big enough to run them in the UK.
C.A.R. said:
My 1/16 Turnigy Buggy which comes ARTR for £45. Unbelievable value complete with brushless setup. Sadly spends a lot of its' time being repaired!
Would you say these are a good buy? Whats the total cost to get it working?I havent touched a RC since my very old Kyosho Nitro buggy!
For starters you'll need radio gear, which can be had for £30-40 for a decent 2.4Ghz modern system.
You'll also need batteries and a charger. Batteries for this specific buggy were less than £5 each, my charger however was £50 but it does a lot more than you would need it to.
It was incredibly cheap for me as I already had the majority of the stuff I needed. Once it's fixed it still only stands me about £100 inclusive of a replacement steering servo, £11 micro receiver and the spare parts / upgrades. It's a nice little buggy.
May have just spent a tenner on a faster motor too...
You'll also need batteries and a charger. Batteries for this specific buggy were less than £5 each, my charger however was £50 but it does a lot more than you would need it to.
It was incredibly cheap for me as I already had the majority of the stuff I needed. Once it's fixed it still only stands me about £100 inclusive of a replacement steering servo, £11 micro receiver and the spare parts / upgrades. It's a nice little buggy.
May have just spent a tenner on a faster motor too...
C.A.R. said:
For starters you'll need radio gear, which can be had for £30-40 for a decent 2.4Ghz modern system.
You'll also need batteries and a charger. Batteries for this specific buggy were less than £5 each, my charger however was £50 but it does a lot more than you would need it to.
It was incredibly cheap for me as I already had the majority of the stuff I needed. Once it's fixed it still only stands me about £100 inclusive of a replacement steering servo, £11 micro receiver and the spare parts / upgrades. It's a nice little buggy.
May have just spent a tenner on a faster motor too...
Sounds good, May have to look at purchasing one. Strictly for my son of course You'll also need batteries and a charger. Batteries for this specific buggy were less than £5 each, my charger however was £50 but it does a lot more than you would need it to.
It was incredibly cheap for me as I already had the majority of the stuff I needed. Once it's fixed it still only stands me about £100 inclusive of a replacement steering servo, £11 micro receiver and the spare parts / upgrades. It's a nice little buggy.
May have just spent a tenner on a faster motor too...
For any HPI BULLET OWNERS...
A heads-up over something minor-but-critical, if that doesn't sound too contradictory!
Background is that I'd managed to snap a rear diff cup - with albeit some quite aggressive rock-crawling style antics, where it got stuck cross-axled, making for inordinate load on two diffs' halves.
However, what I then noticed is that the tranmission contains a protection system which can literally be set to virtually zero chance of harm, to the opposite. This is the slipper-clutch.
On two models though now, I've noticed that it's been fully screwed-down, meaning zero play for the thrust spring, & therefore zero protection afforded.
I've now dialled mine down to what I think is optimal for what I use it for - nice to know now though that the slipper clutch will do its job before any diff cups go.
A heads-up over something minor-but-critical, if that doesn't sound too contradictory!
Background is that I'd managed to snap a rear diff cup - with albeit some quite aggressive rock-crawling style antics, where it got stuck cross-axled, making for inordinate load on two diffs' halves.
However, what I then noticed is that the tranmission contains a protection system which can literally be set to virtually zero chance of harm, to the opposite. This is the slipper-clutch.
On two models though now, I've noticed that it's been fully screwed-down, meaning zero play for the thrust spring, & therefore zero protection afforded.
I've now dialled mine down to what I think is optimal for what I use it for - nice to know now though that the slipper clutch will do its job before any diff cups go.
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