Airbrush acrylic paint
Discussion
Eric Mc said:
Zad said:
I just use isopropyl alcohol with water and a tiny drop of acrylic retarder, it seems to do just as good a job as Tamiya thinners at a small fraction of the cost.
Where do you by your isopropyl alcohol?Which is why I tend to use water with occasional driblets of Tamiya thinners
Also had a few goes at thinning with neat screenwash which also seems to work but goes against my better judgment, it is very good for cleaning the dirty brush out as well
That airbrush is like the one I use most often, mine only cost me (by coincidence) twelve quid
Not as if I'm a cheapskate nor nuffink, it works pefectly well
Eric Mc said:
Where do you by your isopropyl alcohol?
I get mine from here as this is my other hobby http://www.polishedbliss.co.uk/acatalog/reagent-is...
I have tried mixing my own thinners but find that the DR is right and use Tamiya thinners for Tamiya paint And Humbrol thinners for Humbrol / Vallejo / Revell paint .
Using Tamiya thinners with Vallejo ( not Air ) turns my paint into a lump of jelly
I have just sprayed a 1st layer onto a Buccaneer using Vallejo thinned with Humbrol and with Vallejo Retarder (obviously too much) and it took all night to dry so the retarder actually works .
johnS2000 said:
Eric Mc said:
Where do you by your isopropyl alcohol?
I get mine from here as this is my other hobby http://www.polishedbliss.co.uk/acatalog/reagent-is...
I have tried mixing my own thinners but find that the DR is right and use Tamiya thinners for Tamiya paint And Humbrol thinners for Humbrol / Vallejo / Revell paint .
Using Tamiya thinners with Vallejo ( not Air ) turns my paint into a lump of jelly
I have just sprayed a 1st layer onto a Buccaneer using Vallejo thinned with Humbrol and with Vallejo Retarder (obviously too much) and it took all night to dry so the retarder actually works .
One of the problems with Isopropyl Alcohol is knowing the % strength you've bought, and what % to dilute it to. I got mine from the local pharmacy so I knew the concentration, but even so, without experimentation, what is a good strength to mix to for various paints?
Spraying models is difficult enough without any more complications IMO!
This stuff is 99% + pure and I only tried it as I had it and agree with you regards the difficulty with spraying stuff .
As for the retarder a quick look on the Humbrol website tells me that their acrylic thinners has retarders in it so adding the Vallejo may have pushed it over the top .
As for the retarder a quick look on the Humbrol website tells me that their acrylic thinners has retarders in it so adding the Vallejo may have pushed it over the top .
Eric Mc said:
Where do you by your isopropyl alcohol?
Farnell, 1L was about £10 when I got it to make up a minimum order a few years ago. Maplin usually have Servisol 1L tins for £15 in stock at their shops. Assuming the marketing people haven't slashed it from their stock with all the other real electronics stuff.It certainly used to be the case that your local chemist would order medical grade isopropyl. Checking Ebay, it is showing 5L of 99.9% for £15
johnS2000 said:
This stuff is 99% + pure and I only tried it as I had it and agree with you regards the difficulty with spraying stuff .
As for the retarder a quick look on the Humbrol website tells me that their acrylic thinners has retarders in it so adding the Vallejo may have pushed it over the top .
I use Vallejo retarder with Vallejo Acrylics, so no idea how it works with other manufacturers. I guess it's the same principle as sticking to same make thinners/paints.As for the retarder a quick look on the Humbrol website tells me that their acrylic thinners has retarders in it so adding the Vallejo may have pushed it over the top .
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