Pics of your models, please!

Pics of your models, please!

Author
Discussion

AMD87

2,004 posts

201 months

Thursday 14th January 2016
quotequote all
slybynight said:

my latest Lego kit....hey inverted!
heres some earlier ones


Need the Concorde one!

Twobad

69 posts

173 months

Friday 15th January 2016
quotequote all
blueST said:
He she is in all her £8 Airfix starter set, brush painted glory. First model i've made in 20 years...





I enjoyed it so much I've ordered a 1:24 Tamiya Honda NSX to do properly!
Knowing what the paints and brush are like in those starter kits that's really quite good! Welcome back to the hobby.

blueST

4,378 posts

215 months

Saturday 16th January 2016
quotequote all
Twobad said:
Knowing what the paints and brush are like in those starter kits that's really quite good! Welcome back to the hobby.
Thanks. Even though I'd washed the sprues, it kept pooling like it was repelled by the plastic. I don't remember that happening years ago with old Humbrol enamels I had. The only way it seemed to work was to paint a really thin almost wash, let it dry, then go over it again. Need to get some decent quality paint for the Tamiya NSX. In fact I might have a box of old Humbrol pots in the loft, wonder if they are still ok?

Evangelion

7,640 posts

177 months

Saturday 16th January 2016
quotequote all
Before I moved house and chucked it all out, I had loads of tins of Humbrol enamel I'd had for 30 or 40 years and they were still useable. The secret is to always make sure the lids are on really tight and if paint dries on the rim, scrape it off to ensure a good seal. (Remembering not to let the scrapings fall into the paint as this will do more harm than good!)

If you haven't used a tin for a while, do the opposite of James Bond - don't shake it, give it a good stir. Warming the tin will help.

jmorgan

36,010 posts

283 months

Saturday 16th January 2016
quotequote all
TR4man said:
Twobad said:
Not long completed Hasegawa 1:8 Museum Series Sopwith Camel F1.













Stunning
Seconded or thrived or what ever the count is.

z06tim

558 posts

185 months

Saturday 16th January 2016
quotequote all
Evangelion said:
Before I moved house and chucked it all out, I had loads of tins of Humbrol enamel I'd had for 30 or 40 years and they were still useable. The secret is to always make sure the lids are on really tight and if paint dries on the rim, scrape it off to ensure a good seal. (Remembering not to let the scrapings fall into the paint as this will do more harm than good!)

If you haven't used a tin for a while, do the opposite of James Bond - don't shake it, give it a good stir. Warming the tin will help.
I have resurrected a lot of humbrol and xtracolor enamels that are 25+ years old. I find if the pigment has separated into a solid, first stirring to break this up, then put the lid on and a good shake will re-combine.

I have got back into the hobby after more than 20 years off. I still like the old fashioned brush painting, but some of the new tins of humbrol enamel are not as good - either too thin, or poor coverage.

I've tried Revell acrylics and they are dreadful for brush painting.

Just bought some Hataka acrylics to try, so think ultimately i will need to try air-brushing. Fun times!

EagleMoto4-2

669 posts

103 months

Saturday 16th January 2016
quotequote all
z06tim said:
Evangelion said:
Before I moved house and chucked it all out, I had loads of tins of Humbrol enamel I'd had for 30 or 40 years and they were still useable. The secret is to always make sure the lids are on really tight and if paint dries on the rim, scrape it off to ensure a good seal. (Remembering not to let the scrapings fall into the paint as this will do more harm than good!)

If you haven't used a tin for a while, do the opposite of James Bond - don't shake it, give it a good stir. Warming the tin will help.
I have resurrected a lot of humbrol and xtracolor enamels that are 25+ years old. I find if the pigment has separated into a solid, first stirring to break this up, then put the lid on and a good shake will re-combine.

I have got back into the hobby after more than 20 years off. I still like the old fashioned brush painting, but some of the new tins of humbrol enamel are not as good - either too thin, or poor coverage.

I've tried Revell acrylics and they are dreadful for brush painting.

Just bought some Hataka acrylics to try, so think ultimately i will need to try air-brushing. Fun times!
I have found that the Tamiya acrylics are just as good as they have always been, particularly for brush painting. I have recently discovered however how good the Tamiya rattle cans are, great smooth shiny finish with minimal effort.

Twobad

69 posts

173 months

Saturday 16th January 2016
quotequote all
jmorgan said:
TR4man said:
Twobad said:
Not long completed Hasegawa 1:8 Museum Series Sopwith Camel F1.
Stunning
Seconded or thrived or what ever the count is.
Thanks chaps. I'm pleased with how it turned out, which is unusual for me.

I'm doing a similar model of the Red Baron's Fokker Dr.1 now.

z06tim

558 posts

185 months

Sunday 17th January 2016
quotequote all
A few of my 65th Aggressor Sqn F-15C Eagle, from Nellis AFB:








ferrisbueller

29,260 posts

226 months

Friday 29th January 2016
quotequote all
I lack the talent to build things so have to buy them.

Always had a thing for the Blackbird so got one of these. It's quite nice!


PanzerCommander

5,026 posts

217 months

Wednesday 3rd February 2016
quotequote all
After a year or so I decided to rebuild my Tamiya Konigstiger (Tiger II) because after a bit of use the stock track tensioners (a known weak point) had decided that they’d had enough and it threw the tracks more than it drove and I was running out of spare links; though reading up on it mine lasted longer than most.

You know how these things go though, what starts as a set of Schumo track tensioners and Impact metal tracks turns into a full re-build and re-paint and increase the detail level.

So over a period of a year (mostly down to waiting for parts to be in stock at Axels Modelbau – they are a small business and make them in batches) I have re-built the tank with some modifications and its considerably more bad ass than before. I essentially bought the entire Schumo parts catalogue as well as some Aber parts, as well as raw materials and paints from my local model shop and some non-Tamiya specific parts from E-Bay to re-build it.

The first step was to strip it down and then strip off the stock zimmermeit coating and paint, I made good use of Mr Muscle for the plastic parts (remembering to wear gloves as that stuff is horrific) so it could be re-painted. The paint was one thing I wasn't happy with as the camo wasn't soft edged nor was the tone correct. All of the stripped parts were first painted in red-oxide primer before being coated in dunkelgelb (dark yellow) as the base colour. Then the rotbraun (red-brown) and dunkelgrun (dark green) for the camouflage pattern. I soft edged it using rolls of bluetac formed into the shapes and the rest masked off with a combination of paper masking tape and cut up bin liners (it’s a large model).

I decided to totally remove and fill in the mud guard holes (they fell off in battle – honest) and left only one section of the fenders in place, the paint scheme and lack of zimmermeit represent a tank used in the Ardennes in ’44.

The tow ropes are an Aber kit as is the track rope, the supports for the tow ropes are a Schumo cast set and the track rope supports are scratch built. The tools are stock Tamiya parts (photo etch is way to fiddly for me as I don’t have all the small bending tools and vices needed and wasn't about to buy them for a one off model) except the fire extinguisher which is a cast metal upgrade part that came with the hatches (more on those in a moment) because I misplaced the stock Tamiya one. The radio antenna is Schumo as are the photo etch grilles. The engine hatch handle is a piece of wire rather than the stock plastic item.




Moving onto the upper hull at the front, the two hatches (driver and hull gunner) are metal parts designed as an upgrade for the Mato/Tiegen tank which I have made open and close on the Tamiya kit so that I could mount the on/off switch for the electronics under the drivers hatch, and the on/off switch for the headlamp under the gunners hatch.





Moving to the front, the hull mg is stock Tamiya and the headlight (containing a grain of wheat bulb – yes it does work) is a Schumo cast metal part. The tow shackles are real metal (part of the same kit as the rear ones) and the track guides they hang from are cast metal Schumo parts.





Moving onto the upper hull at the front, the two hatches (driver and hull gunner) are metal parts designed as an upgrade for the Mato/Tiegen tank which I have made open and close on the Tamiya kit so that I could mount the on/off switch for the electronics under the drivers hatch, and the on/off switch for the headlamp under the gunners hatch.Moving to the turret, the gun barrel is a Schumo upgrade part and the muzzle brake is an Aber kit. I fitted the Schumo commanders hatch replacing the stock kit one and fitted a Schumo ammo loading hatch on the rear. Handles on some of the hatches have been replaced with Schumo pre-bent wire handles. Others I like the one on the engine deck hatch is a scratch made handle from brass wire.


Onto the rear, the C-hitches are a Schumo kit, and the exhaust covers are a cast metal Schumo kit (now discontinued but you can get resin ones). The jack is the stock Tamiya. The jack block is totally home-made, as are its mounts and strap. The tow shackles are metal (real bolts) and the rear hull sections they hang from are Schumo resin parts. The track links on the turret are usable replacements for the tanks actual tracks (I bought a bunch of additional spare Impact track links, they sit on the Schumo track hangers.











Moving inside the tank (not photographed - yet), the tensioners have been replaced with the Schumo tensioner kit (both the adjustable parts and the blocks) which should be 100% better than the stock ones and be able to handle the additional load of the Impact metal tracks. I also added POM bearings to support the output shafts, I may still buy a bracing kit for the gearboxes. The gun has counterbalance weights glued to the re-coil mechanism to help counter the metal gun and muzzle brake, and I used the stock tensioners and a bit of lead to counterbalance the whole turret assembly.

I put a plasticard shield on the turret rotation motor assembly to keep wires out of the gear mechanism and add some rigidity to it, I wanted to use a Flakpanzer Geopard rotation assembly but finding one was tough (they occasionally pop up on e-bay) and I don’t think that there would be enough space in the lower hull to mount everything.

I intend to fashion a travel lock for the main gun that runs of a micro servo on the 5th channel of the transmitter as the gun flops around a bit when driving over rough terrain.

I'm happy with the tank over all, the splotches for the ambush camouflage could be smaller but as its a tank it doesn't have to be perfect (show me one tank that is) I may weather it at some point but I need to learn how to do that properly before I ruin the paint job - or I could just drive it through a puddle.

NickM450

2,636 posts

199 months

Thursday 4th February 2016
quotequote all
Finally got my hands on all three thumbup


perdu

4,884 posts

198 months

Friday 5th February 2016
quotequote all
PanzerCommander said:
After a year or so I decided to rebuild my Tamiya Konigstiger (Tiger II)

I'm happy with the tank over all, the splotches for the ambush camouflage could be smaller but as its a tank it doesn't have to be perfect (show me one tank that is) I may weather it at some point but I need to learn how to do that properly before I ruin the paint job - or I could just drive it through a puddle.
smile

drive it through that puddle..

Seriously, after giving up on German tanks many years ago I usually look,... say yeahhrr OK,... then move on, this one has me stopping.

Looking.

And liking.

I would consider dulling down the rust on the tracks, this obviously seriously in service tank wouldnt have quite such 'rusty' track links but hey

Whadda I know, I'm an aeroplane man mostly

nice model

in fact nice to see so many actually built models here

And I'm not dissing the collectors who collect, this is for the models we are proud of and happy with wherever they start their lives with us

I might even have another vehicle to show off soon wink

Skii

1,625 posts

190 months

Friday 5th February 2016
quotequote all
In my opinion the Tiger II is the best looking tank ever built, love what you have done there ,clearly a labour of love. As Perdu says the tracks do look a bit red bit not a difficult job to tone them down a bit.

Great stuff.

PanzerCommander

5,026 posts

217 months

Friday 5th February 2016
quotequote all
Thanks smile

Yes the 'rust'on the tracks is a bit red, probably not helped by the bright silver metal castings giving additional shine. I merely whipped over them with the same red-oxide primer that I used as a base coat for the whole tank.

The Tiger II is one of those tanks that still looks like it could be on the battlefields today. I have seen one (well two as they have two at Bovingdon) in the metal and it is every bit as imposing as you would imagine.

I'm going to mount my camera on it (replay XD which has a cupola mount made for it) and shoot a few videos at some point, though devising a travel lock is the next project for it.

Edited by PanzerCommander on Friday 5th February 16:05

ferrisbueller

29,260 posts

226 months

Friday 5th February 2016
quotequote all
Tigers are awesome. Imagine staring down that barrel perched in a Sherman or such like. Yikes.

Love the supervans, too.

Great diversity on this thread lately.

Neith

621 posts

139 months

Monday 8th February 2016
quotequote all
New arrival, another AUTOart.

1/18 Initial D Legend Toyota Sprinter Trueno AE86


The Fujiwara Tofu Shop logo is accurate on this one (AUTOart positioned it wrong on the first run)


All of the badging looks spot on, also has the Trueno badging on the mudflaps. For anyone wondering, the licence plate is different to Takumi's car in the original Initial D. In 'Legend' the car has this plate.


There's a switch behind the front plate for toggling the pop-ups!


Engine is pretty heavily detailed (this car represents the 86 with the 4AGE engine (the later car has a TRD engine)


The boot opens on imitation struts and is carpeted. The car also comes with a box of tofu to put in the boot hehe


The interior is amazing. Few points of note are the carpeted floor, the cup in the cup holder (which Takumi's dad fills to make him drive smoothly) and the roof liner which you can't see here. The liner is for a sunroof-equipped car because in the anime Takumi's dad prefers it so he can readjust the position of the interior lights. AUTOart even remembered that detail. The seatbelts are also made of cloth.


Amazing model for the price (I paid about £110 for it from a site in the Netherlands and it arrived in 4 days. Can't fault that. Now has pride of place next to the AUTOart Reebok R32 GTR cool

sad61t

1,100 posts

209 months

Tuesday 9th February 2016
quotequote all
blueST said:
Thanks. Even though I'd washed the sprues, it kept pooling like it was repelled by the plastic. I don't remember that happening years ago with old Humbrol enamels I had. The only way it seemed to work was to paint a really thin almost wash, let it dry, then go over it again. Need to get some decent quality paint for the Tamiya NSX. In fact I might have a box of old Humbrol pots in the loft, wonder if they are still ok?
Use one of those screen cleaning wipes after the build to remove fingerprint oils and then a quick once over with rattle can primer (light grey) helps a lot. I've also found that flat brushes give a better coverage than the small round ones supplied in the starter kits.

The only problem you might have with old enamels (hands up, I've some 30+ year old ones in a drawer too) is that the thinner has changed, so it's always worth checking a small amount in a bottle cap before adding it to the pot. If it separates or goes stringy then try a different thinner.

blueST

4,378 posts

215 months

Tuesday 9th February 2016
quotequote all
sad61t said:
Use one of those screen cleaning wipes after the build to remove fingerprint oils and then a quick once over with rattle can primer (light grey) helps a lot. I've also found that flat brushes give a better coverage than the small round ones supplied in the starter kits.

The only problem you might have with old enamels (hands up, I've some 30+ year old ones in a drawer too) is that the thinner has changed, so it's always worth checking a small amount in a bottle cap before adding it to the pot. If it separates or goes stringy then try a different thinner.
Cheers, I'm going to do another cheap Airfix starter kit WWII Mustang just to get my eye in before the NSX. I've got some screen cleaning wipes lying about so I'll try that. I'm not going to use my old enamels. I'll just buy new as I go along.

Daston

6,074 posts

202 months

Wednesday 10th February 2016
quotequote all
Here are some of my minitures used for a Batman Skirmish Game. The scale is 35mm so around 1:43.

First up is Deathstroke







Gordon and SWAT