Modeling tools.
Discussion
Bought a Pocher 1/12th model Alfa last year which I am finally going to start!.
Looking to buy an airbrush/compressor and the tools I will need, can anyone suggest a good place to buy these from?. I fully expect to do more than one kit so am looking to purchase good quality items. Will also need paint and adhesives etc.
thanks.
Looking to buy an airbrush/compressor and the tools I will need, can anyone suggest a good place to buy these from?. I fully expect to do more than one kit so am looking to purchase good quality items. Will also need paint and adhesives etc.
thanks.
Your best best for a start is Hiroboy at;
Hiroboy
Airbrush and compressor wise the custom paint sites are very informative, I use;
Custom Paint Shop
and
Organic Image
Hiroboy
Airbrush and compressor wise the custom paint sites are very informative, I use;
Custom Paint Shop
and
Organic Image
There are tons of places you can buy airbrushes and compressors. The problem is choice, variety and price ranges. You need to do a bit of homewwork on the type of airbrush and compressor you need and set some sort of budget before coming to any decision.
Regarding ordinary modelling tools, I would suggest -
a range of paintbrushes
a small selection of needle files
a selection of modelling knives
a basic range of paints (enamels, acrylics and spray cans - Halfords are quite good for a wide range of colours)
tube polystyrene cement
liquid polystyrene cement in an applicator type bottle (Revell produce it in this form)
liquid polystyrene cement in a bottle for brush application
Regarding ordinary modelling tools, I would suggest -
a range of paintbrushes
a small selection of needle files
a selection of modelling knives
a basic range of paints (enamels, acrylics and spray cans - Halfords are quite good for a wide range of colours)
tube polystyrene cement
liquid polystyrene cement in an applicator type bottle (Revell produce it in this form)
liquid polystyrene cement in a bottle for brush application
You will also need some non-polystyrene type glues.
Polystyrene cement works by melting and bonding the polystyrene plastic of the model. It will not stick other materials to each other - or even to polystyrene. You will find that kits often contain materials that aren't polystyrene - white metal, PVC plastic, polythene plastic, resin, clear acetate etc. For these you will need other glues such as white PVA (most commonly seen as Evo Stik wood glue) or cyanocrylate glue (often referred to as Superglue) and two part epoxy glues.
All these other glues have their uses. PVA glue is best for attaching clear parts. Polystyrene cement can easily damage clear poloystyrene parts so is best avoided when attaching these bits to the model. PVA glue is benign and won't damage the clear parts. It is also water soluble so excesses amounts can be easily wiped away witha damp cotton bud or even a mositened toothpick.
Superglue and it's brethren is good for gluing resin, white metal and non-polystyrene plastics. It is also best avoided when gluing clear parts as the fumes emitted by these glues can fog a canopy or window.
Another useful material is Johnson's Clear. This is actually a floor tile polish. It is acrylic based and is very benign. It is used as a gloss coat on models, it can be used to enhance the apperance of clear parts and it can even be used as a glue.
Polystyrene cement works by melting and bonding the polystyrene plastic of the model. It will not stick other materials to each other - or even to polystyrene. You will find that kits often contain materials that aren't polystyrene - white metal, PVC plastic, polythene plastic, resin, clear acetate etc. For these you will need other glues such as white PVA (most commonly seen as Evo Stik wood glue) or cyanocrylate glue (often referred to as Superglue) and two part epoxy glues.
All these other glues have their uses. PVA glue is best for attaching clear parts. Polystyrene cement can easily damage clear poloystyrene parts so is best avoided when attaching these bits to the model. PVA glue is benign and won't damage the clear parts. It is also water soluble so excesses amounts can be easily wiped away witha damp cotton bud or even a mositened toothpick.
Superglue and it's brethren is good for gluing resin, white metal and non-polystyrene plastics. It is also best avoided when gluing clear parts as the fumes emitted by these glues can fog a canopy or window.
Another useful material is Johnson's Clear. This is actually a floor tile polish. It is acrylic based and is very benign. It is used as a gloss coat on models, it can be used to enhance the apperance of clear parts and it can even be used as a glue.
Another vote for www.hiroboy.co.uk
I go there for nearly all my equipment/paints etc.
The main thing is they do bespoke sets of paints for various cars.
I've just bought a set of five paints to make a Honda Repsol bike and they are spot on.
The pukka Renault paint has just been delivered for my next project.....
I go there for nearly all my equipment/paints etc.
The main thing is they do bespoke sets of paints for various cars.
I've just bought a set of five paints to make a Honda Repsol bike and they are spot on.
The pukka Renault paint has just been delivered for my next project.....
https://airbrushes.com/index.php?osCsid=4d5bda47bf...
I have just bought an IWATA Revolution and am well chuffed with it.
First order with this places gets you 10% off too.
Good stock of paints and glues and god knows what else here also
http://www.emodels.co.uk/plastic-kits/
I have just bought an IWATA Revolution and am well chuffed with it.
First order with this places gets you 10% off too.
Good stock of paints and glues and god knows what else here also
http://www.emodels.co.uk/plastic-kits/
Edited by zippy500 on Wednesday 11th February 12:52
milleman said:
Thanks for your replies, will start collecting...
Good chap, don't forget to chuck some pictures up when you start.Don't forget also that many excellent models have been created with the simplest of tools. More tools just make the job slightly easier at times (and it's fun to have a nice selection of toys).
The Pocher kits are actually 1/8 scale not 1/12 and the thing you will need most of is - patience. At some stage you will come across components that simply do not fit together; these kits are Italian engineering in it's worst sense. I also have a Pocher Alfa on the stocks. First problem came when building the crankshaft - the diameter of the big-end pins is larger than the holes they fit into. I have also been warned that it takes approx 20 hours to build a single spoked wheel, (and there are 6 of them - 4 x road + 2 x spare), and that is after you've built/unbuilt/built the first one a couple of times. These are not like Airfix or Tamiya kits except inasmuch as they are built from components. When they are finished, though, they are superb.
You might want to find a Pocher engine kit; Bugatti 50T or Volvo diesel, say, to play with and get a "feel" for Pocher before slamming into the car kit. Could be money well-spent on e-Bay. There are a number of "how to" guides that are worth buying, (or downloading), and the supply of after-market detailing bits is limited only by your bank balance.
Have a look here for starters.
www.modelmotorcars.com/
If you are only building the Alfa on a spare-time basis I think you might be hard pressed to finish it this year.
I sincerely wish you good luck.
ETA : And, of course, these kits haven't been produced for many years so spare bits are a problem if you wreck any.
You might want to find a Pocher engine kit; Bugatti 50T or Volvo diesel, say, to play with and get a "feel" for Pocher before slamming into the car kit. Could be money well-spent on e-Bay. There are a number of "how to" guides that are worth buying, (or downloading), and the supply of after-market detailing bits is limited only by your bank balance.
Have a look here for starters.
www.modelmotorcars.com/
If you are only building the Alfa on a spare-time basis I think you might be hard pressed to finish it this year.
I sincerely wish you good luck.
ETA : And, of course, these kits haven't been produced for many years so spare bits are a problem if you wreck any.
Edited by Skodaku on Tuesday 17th February 12:52
Skodaku, thanks for your comments.
Yes, you are right about the scale they are 1/8 not 1/12.
I realise that the Pocher kits are at the top of the difficulty scale but you have to aim high!.
I have thought about one of the engine kits as a starter, have had the kit now for over a year and keep thinking about doing it-just need to get going and start it.
The kit came with a number of "extras" such as better springs etc, there are a couple of websites that sell upgraded parts for these-wallet permitting.
Am looking at the Hiroboy website at the moment to see which airbrush to buy, should I ever start it of course....
Will post with how I get on.
Yes, you are right about the scale they are 1/8 not 1/12.
I realise that the Pocher kits are at the top of the difficulty scale but you have to aim high!.
I have thought about one of the engine kits as a starter, have had the kit now for over a year and keep thinking about doing it-just need to get going and start it.
The kit came with a number of "extras" such as better springs etc, there are a couple of websites that sell upgraded parts for these-wallet permitting.
Am looking at the Hiroboy website at the moment to see which airbrush to buy, should I ever start it of course....
Will post with how I get on.
milleman said:
Skodaku, thanks for your comments.
Yes, you are right about the scale they are 1/8 not 1/12.
I realise that the Pocher kits are at the top of the difficulty scale but you have to aim high!.
I have thought about one of the engine kits as a starter, have had the kit now for over a year and keep thinking about doing it-just need to get going and start it.
The kit came with a number of "extras" such as better springs etc, there are a couple of websites that sell upgraded parts for these-wallet permitting.
Am looking at the Hiroboy website at the moment to see which airbrush to buy, should I ever start it of course....
Will post with how I get on.
You're absolutely right - you have to start somewhere and aiming high is no bad thing. Sorry if I sounded like a "downer" on this; I'm not and love Pocher kits. Was just trying to bring some realism.............but you seem to have your own so you'll be fine.Yes, you are right about the scale they are 1/8 not 1/12.
I realise that the Pocher kits are at the top of the difficulty scale but you have to aim high!.
I have thought about one of the engine kits as a starter, have had the kit now for over a year and keep thinking about doing it-just need to get going and start it.
The kit came with a number of "extras" such as better springs etc, there are a couple of websites that sell upgraded parts for these-wallet permitting.
Am looking at the Hiroboy website at the moment to see which airbrush to buy, should I ever start it of course....
Will post with how I get on.
As for airbrush - I now use an Iwata Revolution CR, (as does a good friend in Texas), and it really is a lovely bit of kit. You can buy dearer or cheaper. of course. Not sure dearer buys anything useful and cheaper usually, (but not always), means something has been skimped on. This Iwata model came out best in a recent Tamiya Model Magazine International comparison, is a joy to handle and clean and has Iwata's usual build quality and lifetime guarantee. Sort of airbrush you still be using, happily, in 10 years or more. It's dual-action of course. There are some great compressor deals out there but I've been using a Ripmax for a couple of years and I get the feeling it'll still be blowing air for the rest of my life. A water-trap and regulator are a must with any compressor.
Sorry if I'm preaching to the converted.
I'll look forward to hearing how the mighty Alfa progresses. Which one is it ? Mine's the blue & white Spider Touring Gran Sport 1932. Keep looking out for one of the Rollers or Mercs but I've 3 x 1/12 Tamiya's to build as well : Porsche 934, Porsche 935, (both original issue), and a Caterham Super Seven BDR, (the Master's Coachwork road car version). Bought the Porsches cheap off a guy who was, as he put it "growing up" (?) and imported the 7 from Hong Kong for a lot less than the UK retail price, (if you can find one). Anyway, enough from me.
Enjoy.
I used to do alot of airbrushing and I used a badger 360 airbrush which is excelent, especially for fine detail stuff.
From my airbrushing experience the airbrush and compressor you are using are only going to give you 25% of the final result. More than 50% is the paint and the rest is your spraying technique.
Before you try and paint your model I would practice painting on something else before hand, buying a cheap model for practice might be a good idea. Thinning the paint properly is hard to get right and every airbrush/paint combo is slightly different.
From my airbrushing experience the airbrush and compressor you are using are only going to give you 25% of the final result. More than 50% is the paint and the rest is your spraying technique.
Before you try and paint your model I would practice painting on something else before hand, buying a cheap model for practice might be a good idea. Thinning the paint properly is hard to get right and every airbrush/paint combo is slightly different.
Iwata stuff may be extremely good (they are) but the price of their stuff is rather... prohibitive. I bought Chinese stuff off Ebay 14-15 months ago and have not had any problems with it. A compressor with a tank is much more preferable to a diaphragm compressor, which can give a pulse/staccato effect to your paint. Also, go for a dual-action brush which gives you much more control than a single action. The limit at the moment is still my abilities and not that of the brush.
The ones I went for are:
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Airbrush-High-Detail-D-Actio...
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/High-Performance-Silent-Airb...
Various sellers on Ebay have identical items.
The ones I went for are:
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Airbrush-High-Detail-D-Actio...
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/High-Performance-Silent-Airb...
Various sellers on Ebay have identical items.
Zad said:
Iwata stuff may be extremely good (they are) but the price of their stuff is rather... prohibitive. I bought Chinese stuff off Ebay 14-15 months ago and have not had any problems with it. A compressor with a tank is much more preferable to a diaphragm compressor, which can give a pulse/staccato effect to your paint. Also, go for a dual-action brush which gives you much more control than a single action. The limit at the moment is still my abilities and not that of the brush.
The ones I went for are:
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Airbrush-High-Detail-D-Actio...
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/High-Performance-Silent-Airb...
Various sellers on Ebay have identical items.
Thats the compressor I have. Very good for the price.
i went for dual action airbrushes also.
The ones I went for are:
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Airbrush-High-Detail-D-Actio...
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/High-Performance-Silent-Airb...
Various sellers on Ebay have identical items.
Thats the compressor I have. Very good for the price.
i went for dual action airbrushes also.
No arguments with any of the above. It can take quite a while become reasonably proficient wath an airbrush; regardless of make or cost. The advice I was given, by a pro airbrush artist, was to "practise dots, straight lines, (all thicknesses), curves and dagger strokes for about an hour a day for a couple of months". A roll of cheap lining paper from B&Q is ideal for this mundane task...............but it is a pain the the bum.
Of course, you could always do a 1-day beginners' course to understand the basics before diving off into terminally bad habit land. Depends how good you want to be, I guess.
Of course, you could always do a 1-day beginners' course to understand the basics before diving off into terminally bad habit land. Depends how good you want to be, I guess.
I think that's the difference. An airbrush artist is going to be making much more use of the dagger strokes etc (which look so simple but are an absolute pain!) in very fine work whereas the average modeller's main aim is going to be even coats over a relatively large area.
I do have different brushes for modelling and arty-farty work, the cheaper ones being used for the larger areas of coverage.
I do have different brushes for modelling and arty-farty work, the cheaper ones being used for the larger areas of coverage.
Skodaku,
Its the 8C-2300 Monza, also fancied the Pocher Fiat model which I might do afterwards
I didn't think your reply was being negative at all, so no problem there. Its usefull to chat to someone who has experience of these.
Your comments regarding the Tamiya kits are interesting, Being a Porsche nut the tamiya 934/935 kits do appeal-I allways remember the Tamiya kits I made in my youth (that makes me feel old) were of excellent quality. I am considering "starting" with one of these.
Hiroboy list the 934 kit on their site but the 935 is out of stock, e-bay has some of the 935 kits but they all appear to be in Hong Kong-why no UK dealer has one I'm not sure!.
Will post with what I decide to do.
Its the 8C-2300 Monza, also fancied the Pocher Fiat model which I might do afterwards
I didn't think your reply was being negative at all, so no problem there. Its usefull to chat to someone who has experience of these.
Your comments regarding the Tamiya kits are interesting, Being a Porsche nut the tamiya 934/935 kits do appeal-I allways remember the Tamiya kits I made in my youth (that makes me feel old) were of excellent quality. I am considering "starting" with one of these.
Hiroboy list the 934 kit on their site but the 935 is out of stock, e-bay has some of the 935 kits but they all appear to be in Hong Kong-why no UK dealer has one I'm not sure!.
Will post with what I decide to do.
Gassing Station | Scale Models | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff