Revell 1/25th Scale Ford Mustang

[mattmoxon]

Well I'm another one of these people inspired by James May to build myself a plastic kit - but Instead of a Spitfire I thought I'd make a car, not a classic or vintage one, but my own. A 2005 Ford Mustang GT.



This is how she currently looks:-


all the bits are there and I have to say the attention to detail is pretty good.

However what I want to do is make a scale model of my own car my first hurdle is the colour of my car is Redfire Metallic now I can get this for £8 from Halfords as a touch up paint (Indeed I do have some for the car) so getting the colour isn't the issue neither is applying (I'll use an airbrush) Will the Holts mixed paint work on a plastic kit - or will it either a) not adhere or b) eat the plastic? The second is the wheels the stock wheels in the kit are different to mine and I'd like some the same, is there anywhere that makes 1/25 scale car wheels?

Oh and here is my car which I am basing the kit build on:-


Cheers,
Matt

[Eric Mc]

First spray your model with one of the Halford's primer paints - white or grey are isually the best. Then you can use whatever top paint you like on the model.

[tr7v8]

I've used car paint on plastic kits loads of times. Either use a barrier as Eric suggested or all I do is do very light drop coats & allow to dry to start with & then build them up. Mos touch in paints are acrylics & a lot less reactive on plastic than cellulose.

[Evangelion]

I've frequently used car paints on plastic. As tr7v8 says, use a very light first coat or two, so that the primer dries as soon as it hits the surface and doesn't have time to attack it. When dry this will shield the plastic from subsequent primer/paint/lacquer etc.

'Barrier coat' comes already thinned so you just pour it straight into your spray gun or airbrush and it's ready to use. I've only ever used it on resin , so can't guarantee it won't attack plastic. I don't like it anyway, as the instructions insist it can't be sanded. What you'd do if you put too thick a coat on I have no idea!

[T89 Callan]

Building a model of your own car gives aspecial kind of satisfaction I believe. Last one I did was my first track car, complete with matt black wing and stripped interior.

Edited by T89 Callan on Monday 16th November 03:47

[Red Firecracker]

mattmoxon said:

However what I want to do is make a scale model of my own car my first hurdle is the colour of my car is Redfire Metallic now I can get this for £8 from Halfords as a touch up paint (Indeed I do have some for the car) so getting the colour isn't the issue neither is applying (I'll use an airbrush) Will the Holts mixed paint work on a plastic kit - or will it either a) not adhere or b) eat the plastic? The second is the wheels the stock wheels in the kit are different to mine and I'd like some the same, is there anywhere that makes 1/25 scale car wheels?

Paint wise have a look at Hiroboy.

If you give him your paint code etc he'll be able to mix up a scale version of the paint that is airbrush ready. Good service and good products.

He also does 1/25th scale wheels;

Hiroboy Wheels

but you'll be lucky, I suspect, to get some that match. In the past I've had to create a scale master and then resin cast a set to get the correct design.

Oh, and good luck!

ETA: If you need some GT500 side stripe decals making drop me a line.

Edited by Red Firecracker on Monday 16th November 08:56

[konamonkey]

Thats a really nice model to start with. Tons of detail and goes together well Heres a couple of piccies of mine:

[konamonkey]

one more

Edited by konamonkey on Monday 16th November 16:01

[Kaelic]

I was bought the same kit for my birthday and need to build it


am going to paint it the same as my pony

will be an interesting build to watch then you can laugh at my try hehe

[Skodaku]

Halfords spray cans of Plastic Primer - Red, White or Grey - are acrylic and do not attack plastics. Ditto their colour spray cans. VOC's drove most cellulose products off the retail market long ago..................IIRC.

[Langweilig]

I've already built this kit. There's a minor mistake in the instructions. The four flanged discs that fit into the wheel rims are printed the wrong way around. Once you fit the little metal pins in and attach the wheels you'll discover that flat, angled surfaces are not for this model.

When you're applying the decals, I'd suggest you kit yourself out with a bottle of Humbrol Decalfix. Revell decals may not stick to the model. The fixative shouldn't affect the paintwork.

Edited by Langweilig on Tuesday 17th November 23:05

[konamonkey]

Agree, the deacals are a bit thick but they do respond well to solveaset and probably will with any setting solution. Working on a Revell F430 at the moment Much funs

[mattmoxon]

Thanks muchly for the response I'll check out the links and keep you all posted on the build process - might take a while as I am away with work quite a bit at the moment but I think leaving it between stages might yield a better finished model.

Matt

[mattmoxon]

Well the engine is assembled and aside from a few touch ups is done:-



My painting isn't the best as my hands aren't the steadiest but all in all it is going fairly well I have a few other bits painted in the sprues ready for assembly/second coat of paint but I am going to have to leave the continuation on until next week.
Oh and, yep the rust coloured main crank pulley and exhaust headers are authentic to the real car .

Thanks for the offer on the stripes but if I do take it up they'll be plain stripes (mines not a GT500 the previous owner "decorated it" and I haven't had chance to change them yet).

Matt

Edited by mattmoxon on Sunday 22 November 19:13

[konamonkey]

Really like your engine! Can I recommend an bit of Tamiya smoke for the bare metal bits? Thinned with a lot of Tamiya thinner, this stuff will create a real impression of depth in the recesses of the engine.

[Red Firecracker]

Gawd no, not Tamiya smoke, awful stuff. Better to mix your own from some silvers/greys/blacks/rusts.

[konamonkey]

Hmmm, dont agree. If thinned properly with Tamiya thinners, its works very well. Works better via an airbrush but is still pretty good from a brush. But..... each to his own

[Red Firecracker]

My issue with it is that it offers poor tonal qualities allied with the fact that it is glossy, not flat. If it was flat, I can see a limited use, but not glossy. Might as well do the job properly to start with with flat colours. I am being ultra picky though.

[konamonkey]

Yeah, I see your point but I understand the initial percieved use of this product was to simulated oily stains on engine blocks etc. That would probably account for the semi-gloss finish. I sometimes mix it with flat base which does reduce the sheen a bit. You could also use thinned oil paint. Windsor&Newton paynes gray and burnt umber create very nice lowlights.

[mattmoxon]

I might have a look at getting some of that, I'll practice on the sprues first to get it right though - took me a weekend to get that engine together

Matt