Help please a good airbrush for a beginner.

[Yertis]

dr_gn said:

Yertis said:

I think I'm going to need to take up modelling again just to get my hands back the airbrush.

There's nothing quite like peeling a strip of Tamiya masking tape off a freshly airbrushed demarcation line.

Oooooooooooow yeaaahhhh.

I do know that feeling.

[Yertis]

Eric Mc said:

Followed by the gnashing of teeth as you discover how much paint has bled under the tape ....grrrrrrr.

And that one...

I must say I've been inspired by looking at dr_gn's stuff. Last night I was thinking about buying a kit to make, then I remembered I have an unmade Revell Spit V in my old model-making box, and an Airfix TSR2 bought on whim in the loft. And just thinking now I remember I also have a Fujimi Audi 90 Quattro, a Revell 944 Turbo, a Tamiya XJ220 and two Quattros, up there.

Lofts are great aren't they?

[Eric Mc]

I don't know. I can't get in mine with all the unbuilt kits.

[dr_gn]

Yertis said:

Eric Mc said:

Followed by the gnashing of teeth as you discover how much paint has bled under the tape ....grrrrrrr.

And that one...

I must say I've been inspired by looking at dr_gn's stuff. Last night I was thinking about buying a kit to make, then I remembered I have an unmade Revell Spit V in my old model-making box, and an Airfix TSR2 bought on whim in the loft. And just thinking now I remember I also have a Fujimi Audi 90 Quattro, a Revell 944 Turbo, a Tamiya XJ220 and two Quattros, up there.

Lofts are great aren't they?

I tried to get into the loft to take some pics of my old models which are in a chest of drawers. So much junk up there I couldn't open a single drawer so I gave up.

IMHO Best thing you can do is buy a nice modern, simple 1:48 Japanese kit and make a start...



You even get a tractor with it. Can't say fairer than that!

[Eric Mc]

They even have a nice matching set of crew figures to go with it.



It's almost a straight depiction of the US Navy pilot briefing scene in "South Pacific".

[dr_gn]

Or, if you like that kind of thing...how about a bit of mild airbrush action?

http://www.tamiya.com/english/products/61082me262_...

[Eric Mc]

Yay ... Luftwaffe Mottles

The true test of an airbrush (or the airbrusher).

[Yertis]

I quite fancy that Kattenkrad

[dr_gn]

Yertis said:

I quite fancy that Kattenkrad

You look at the '262 and wonder how they lost the war, then you look at the Kettenkraftrad and it all becomes clear.

[Anthony Micallef]

Eric Mc said:

Followed by the gnashing of teeth as you discover how much paint has bled under the tape ....grrrrrrr.

Wet the edge of the masking tape with thinners, that should help stop any paint bleeding underneath.

[dr_gn]

Anthony Micallef said:

Eric Mc said:

Followed by the gnashing of teeth as you discover how much paint has bled under the tape ....grrrrrrr.

Wet the edge of the masking tape with thinners, that should help stop any paint bleeding underneath.

I'm not convinced putting thinners in direct contact with a previously painted surface for any length of time is a particulary good idea...I've heard of using Johnsons Klear to seal the edge, but never tried it. I'd rather risk it and touch up any imperfections with a small brush.

[Eric Mc]

Anthony Micallef said:

Eric Mc said:

Followed by the gnashing of teeth as you discover how much paint has bled under the tape ....grrrrrrr.

Wet the edge of the masking tape with thinners, that should help stop any paint bleeding underneath.

On canopies, I give a quick spray (or even ordinary paint brushing) some clear over the masked canopy. That seems to work very effectively to prevent paint bleed under the masks.

I'll try the thinner trick on the main airframe.

Edited by Eric Mc on Wednesday 25th August 15:43

[Anthony Micallef]

Hmmm I may be getting confused between thinners and Klear which is very easy for me as I have a poor memory!!

[Eric Mc]

Thinner thuins paint.

Klear doesn't.

(Although people do use it as an additive to Tamiya varnishes - it really is a "wonder" liquid - just don't drink it).

[Skii]

With masking I make sure the paint is thin and sprayed at low pressure, the trick is not to wet coat the model, just keep the spray at 90 degrees and stop if you see the surface get wet, this will ensure nothing bleeds under the tape - you might end up with a rough texture to your paint as the paint dries before hitting the model - easily remedied with a quick wipe with a 4000 grit micromesh cloth.

[dr_gn]

Skii said:

With masking I make sure the paint is thin and sprayed at low pressure, the trick is not to wet coat the model, just keep the spray at 90 degrees and stop if you see the surface get wet, this will ensure nothing bleeds under the tape - you might end up with a rough texture to your paint as the paint dries before hitting the model - easily remedied with a quick wipe with a 4000 grit micromesh cloth.

Have you ever tried applying a coat of whatever colour is under the masking tape - to stop bleeding? Seems like a good idea if it is indeed just a single colour you're overmasking.

[dr_gn]

Eric Mc said:

Thinner thuins paint.

Klear doesn't.

(Although people do use it as an additive to Tamiya varnishes - it really is a "wonder" liquid - just don't drink it).

Some people even clean floors with it. What a waste.

[Eric Mc]

dr_gn said:

Eric Mc said:

Thinner thuins paint.

Klear doesn't.

(Although people do use it as an additive to Tamiya varnishes - it really is a "wonder" liquid - just don't drink it).

Some people even clean floors with it. What a waste.

It's rubbish on carpets.

[Skii]

dr_gn said:

Skii said:

With masking I make sure the paint is thin and sprayed at low pressure, the trick is not to wet coat the model, just keep the spray at 90 degrees and stop if you see the surface get wet, this will ensure nothing bleeds under the tape - you might end up with a rough texture to your paint as the paint dries before hitting the model - easily remedied with a quick wipe with a 4000 grit micromesh cloth.

Have you ever tried applying a coat of whatever colour is under the masking tape - to stop bleeding? Seems like a good idea if it is indeed just a single colour you're overmasking.

No to be honest I don't think I have, sounds like a valid technique though

[dr_gn]

Skii said:

dr_gn said:

Skii said:

With masking I make sure the paint is thin and sprayed at low pressure, the trick is not to wet coat the model, just keep the spray at 90 degrees and stop if you see the surface get wet, this will ensure nothing bleeds under the tape - you might end up with a rough texture to your paint as the paint dries before hitting the model - easily remedied with a quick wipe with a 4000 grit micromesh cloth.

Have you ever tried applying a coat of whatever colour is under the masking tape - to stop bleeding? Seems like a good idea if it is indeed just a single colour you're overmasking.

No to be honest I don't think I have, sounds like a valid technique though

What I don't get is: with any of the 'overspraying' techniques - either base colour or Klear...how do you know the gaps in adhesion of the tape are filled? Klear is so thin that it's almost impossible to build up much more than a few tens of microns I'd imagine. With paint, if you spray it thick enough to be effective, wouldn't you get a 'threshold' line where the tape was (or even peel the paint off the sparaye darea)?

Do these techniqes work in a different way from simply filling the gaps up?

Edited by dr_gn on Wednesday 25th August 20:52