Frog (Rovex) Hawker Typhoon build [not GB]

[perdu]

here is the first picture of the upper frame tubing that will be the gunsight support framing

And from the other side of the fuselage



I have the mainplanes in place now, dihedral looks good as does the inner anhedral section

here is the White Stuff filler drying before tonight's onslaught




and finally the aperture for the landing lights cut out of the leading edge

Some extra creative thinking required for this section next. It might be a "bad thing", maybe I should have painted it instead



I rather like the Humbrol Acrylics, very easy to use without leaving a "Bill is bloody modelling again" signature...



Wonder how they will spray, should I use Tamiya thinners when airbrushing? I wonder...

[Eric Mc]

I've sprayed Humbrol acrylics (the type that comes with the starter kits) using Hannants thinners and they work fine.

[perdu]

Thanks Eric

I have been a tad wary of buying by website lately since hearing about the Hacked Hannants stories


have to search out my very fine drills to so it looks like a weekend buying spree is on the cards

[Eric Mc]

Hannants don't think that it was their site that was hacked but rather the server of the site that processes their (and other's) sales.

I've not had any problems - although I last bought directly from them at Salemodelworld in November.

[dr_gn]

It's coming together nicely, although I don't envy you your rescribing job on the undersides...

[perdu]

A line is just a line

somemore is just...

Thanks I quite like it again now there're wings on it at last

[dr_gn]

perdu said:

A line is just a line

somemore is just...

Thanks I quite like it again now there're wings on it at last

Those plastic recoil springs on the cannon are annoying me a bit. Can't we slice them off and wind some lead wire around a few brass tubes sometime soon?

[perdu]

Yes they are truly piffing me off too

I think I will be modelling a machine with the later faired in cannons so they are, for now, just for indication...

There is due to be much work on and around the wings before any serious further progress is made

And I still have to mix a flattish blue-greyish silvery colour for the wheel wells and doors

[dr_gn]

perdu said:

Yes they are truly piffing me off too

I think I will be modelling a machine with the later faired in cannons so they are, for now, just for indication...

There is due to be much work on and around the wings before any serious further progress is made

And I still have to mix a flattish blue-greyish silvery colour for the wheel wells and doors

The main reason I went for green rather than silver wells was that silver is a b*tch to get looking right, at least for me. If I weather it, it looks grey. If I don't weather it, it looks chrome.

BTW, check these guys out:

http://www.master-model.pl/index.php?lang=en

I know it's not your thing to buy details, but these really are the dogs bks. I used them on the Bf109, and there is no comparison, even with aftermarket resin. If it's in machined metal on the prototype, it will almost always look best in metal on the model IMO.

[perdu]

Very nice if you need to use metal

I'll be turning down a set for myself from plastic rod or sprue

probably Monday or Tuesday

I have an MG spares Day to attend tomorrow and much socialising to endure/enjoy

( A collection of friends and acquaintances to choose from )

So little chance of working on Tiff til tomorrow night

Also have Brum IPMS mates to meet in the late afternoon

Busy day

[perdu]

Odd day and little time for fettling this evening, just a few smaller than usual bits



The starboard fuselage wing joint was pretty poor (prolly as a result of cutting off the locating tabs to allow wheel well details to be "done") so I added a little Squadron White Putty, which I bought to try instead of the old Green Stuff I used to overdose on.

I like it, dries quickly and takes a good finish and details when needed

After filling and smoothing off yesterday I painted a coat of cockpit green just as a discloser coat that can be rubbed away, like here.



The port side seen during cleaning up

I see many of my retouched panel lines need a second cut to sort out the look of them, straightening and suchlike

Some have already been done tonight and others will get the treatment during quiet minutes this coming week






Here is some of the work entailed when closing off the wheel wells trimming of the 0.005" plates around the edge here



rescribed panel lines after rubbing down the disclose coat

still plenty to do but coming along slowly



really good view of really crap rear end panel lining

Has been sorted since but no picture

This and the previous one show the extra White Filler on the intake cowling, Frog's fit round here was unusually bad for one of their mouldings, I always expected better component fit from Frog

I expect to get the tailplanes on and faired in and maybe a coat of Sea Grey Medium this week

Fingers crossed we have a better week than last, it'd have to be a stinker to be worse...


edit why the hell do I ALWAYS miss seeing the spoiling mostokes first time around?

Edited by perdu on Monday 21st February 00:00

[dr_gn]

It's coming together. I can't get on with Green Stuff putty, it dries too fast. With Milliput you can remove it from panel lines with a damp cloth (and smooth the same way, so you don't need to sand it back in the first place usually).

[Eric Mc]

I've given up on Green Stuff as well. It also melts the plasric slightly. My favourite "old style" filler is Humbrol - which seems quite neutral. I find Milliput messy to use.

Increasingly, I use super-glues, Tippex and have just started to use Mr Surfacer.

[dr_gn]

Eric Mc said:

I've given up on Green Stuff as well. It also melts the plasric slightly. My favourite "old style" filler is Humbrol - which seems quite neutral. I find Milliput messy to use.

Increasingly, I use super-glues, Tippex and have just started to use Mr Surfacer.

I've got #1200 Mr.Surfacer, but it takes a few coats to fill larger gaps. I'm guessing the larger sizes will fill better.

[Eric Mc]

As an aside, what do you use to clean your brush after applying Mr Surfacer? I tried white spirits and it didn't seem to work that well.

[dr_gn]

Eric Mc said:

As an aside, what do you use to clean your brush after applying Mr Surfacer? I tried white spirits and it didn't seem to work that well.

Cellulose thinners.

[Eric Mc]

Thanks.

I'll give them a try next time I use Mr Surfacer.

[perdu]

Mr Surfacer?

new to me

fancy describing it and how you use it please

(no work done tonight, shoulder no fun and too restless to get down to it)

I ifnd the white putty far better than the Green Stuff they make, maybe there's a differentyformulation

The green on the model is just a paint film that gets rubbed away when doing the wet'n'drying, 'tisn't Green Stuff

I use paint as a filler when getting down to it this way

With 1200 grit w'n'd it can easily polish flat and smooth

[dr_gn]

perdu said:

Mr Surfacer?

new to me

fancy describing it and how you use it please

Basically a filler primer. You daub it over imperfections and cracks, then sand it down if you need to.

[Eric Mc]

It's like a very watery version of the Humbrol filler.