Modelling tips

[robemcdonald]

I think we are all agreed on how not to do it.
Going back to my original question: how do I do it?

[Eric Mc]

Old style ALPS printers could print white - but not modern laser or inkjets.

You can buy pre-printed generic lettering in many fonts and sizes - either as rub down "dry" transfers or waterslide decals.

[Evangelion]

Good point - before I had a computer and printer, I used to produce numberplates and driver names for 1/43 cars by applying dry transfer lettering to spare decal paper, coating with clear then it becomes a decal.

Useful tip; decal sheets sometimes have large areas of spare paper round the edge so cut off and keep these for when you need them.

[robemcdonald]

Thanks for that, it’s a useful technique.

I think I’m probbaly going to omit the custom decals on this build though.

[Red Firecracker]

robemcdonald said:

Thanks for that, it’s a useful technique.

I think I’m probbaly going to omit the custom decals on this build though.

No need for that, Rob, let me know the dimensions and I'll see what I can knock up (don't get your hopes too high though, everything is very old now and hasn't seen action for a while!)

[robemcdonald]

Red Firecracker said:

No need for that, let me know the dimensions and I'll see what I can knock up (don't get your hopes too high though, everything is very old now and hasn't seen action for a while!)

Wow. What a kind offer. I’ll try and knock something up later today.

Cheers

[robemcdonald]

A new tip.

I’ve built a few motorcycle models in the past, but never been 100% happy with the exhaust heat staining.
I’m building a bike for a friend at the moment and spent a bit of time looking at actual pictures and not YouTube tutorials. I’m actually quite happy with the results. You’ll need to excuse the obvious finger print (I forgot clear colours take 15 weeks to dry properly)

If you’re interested this is how the finish was achieved.

Step 1. Rattle can TS-13 silver
Step 2. Airbrush clear yellow. Several coats to make it darker where the weeds are.
Step 3. Airbrush clear blue over the weld seams.
Step 4. Using a Molotow chrome marker highlight the weld beads.
Step 5. A couple of coats of clear smoke.
Step 6. Light coat of thinned down nato black to bring it all together.

[CanAm]

Eric Mc said:

Old style ALPS printers could print white - but not modern laser or inkjets.

You can buy pre-printed generic lettering in many fonts and sizes - either as rub down "dry" transfers or waterslide decals.

Letraset used to make an absolutely massive range of dry transfer lettering in virtually every font and point size, but their range last time looked was miniscule in comparison. Similar products only seem to be available in large sized lettering for card makers etc.

But I think I may have a plan.....(to be continued)

[Evangelion]

Have a question for you guys:

Now that Future/Klear has been discontinued for a few years and I am coming to the end of my stockpile, what do I use instead?

[tight5]

Anyone used/uses lacquer 'paints' ?
Any advantages over acrylic ?

[The_Jackal]

Evangelion said:

Have a question for you guys:

Now that Future/Klear has been discontinued for a few years and I am coming to the end of my stockpile, what do I use instead?

Future is just a clear acrylic gloss. Any acrylic gloss will work. I use Alclad Aqua Gloss.

[The_Jackal]

tight5 said:

Anyone used/uses lacquer 'paints' ?
Any advantages over acrylic ?

They say they go down smooth, I think drying times are quite good too. Obviously you have to use lacquer thinner which come with worse fumes than acrylics.
No harm in trying one or two colours on the next project to see how you get on.
But make your own mind up, they aren't a holy grail, just another weapon in your modelling arsenal.

[Evangelion]

I have experimented with using lacquer thinners to spray Humbrol enamel and Tamiya acrylic. I used Humbrol 19 and Tamiya X7, both gloss reds, and they worked perfectly. Both dried to an amazing shine! Good for a car body?

[tight5]

Cheers, guys.
Something to think about.

[ST3Black]

The_Jackal said:

Future is just a clear acrylic gloss. Any acrylic gloss will work. I use Alclad Aqua Gloss.

Is Aqua Gloss water based? Can it be cleaned using water/airbrush cleaner? Doe it give off a strong smell?

From what I have read, Future is/was primarily a US product. Do you know what the UK equivalent is?

[The_Jackal]

ST3Black said:

Is Aqua Gloss water based? Can it be cleaned using water/airbrush cleaner? Doe it give off a strong smell?

From what I have read, Future is/was primarily a US product. Do you know what the UK equivalent is?

Future is/was a uk product, it's America that had the different variations of it. I used it for years.It's called Pledge now
Yes Aqua gloss is water based but I would never advocate cleaning airbrushes with water it just isnt strong enough. Use a good airbrush cleaner, IPA or lacquer thinners. The O ring argument just doesnt hold up these days, the world has moved on in the world of airbrushes.
And no it doesn't give off a strong smell.

[ST3Black]

The_Jackal said:

Future is/was a uk product, it's America that had the different variations of it. I used it for years.It's called Pledge now
Yes Aqua gloss is water based but I would never advocate cleaning airbrushes with water it just isnt strong enough. Use a good airbrush cleaner, IPA or lacquer thinners. The O ring argument just doesnt hold up these days, the world has moved on in the world of airbrushes.
And no it doesn't give off a strong smell.

Thanks for replying and clearing up my confusion over the Future/Pledge product, much appreciated.

Is Aqua Gloss ok to spray over water based acrylics (Revell/Humbrol)? Would I then be able to spray a satin coat on top once I have placed the decals?

I use Vallejo airbrush cleaner, with a rinse through with water - that should be OK to clean the Aqua Gloss, shouldn't it? Can you recommend a UK stockist of the Aqua Gloss?

[robemcdonald]

I did a bit of advice. I want to replicate a chocolate egg (kinder) but with some kind permanent material.

The idea is to effectively make a fake kinder egg as per my picture in the other thread.

I’m pretty sure I’ll be able to get a mould from hobby craft, but need a material and idea Of how I could do it.
It needs to be the correct thickness so vac form is out (not that I have the equipment)
Anyone have an idea?

[dr_gn]

robemcdonald said:

I did a bit of advice. I want to replicate a chocolate egg (kinder) but with some kind permanent material.

The idea is to effectively make a fake kinder egg as per my picture in the other thread.

I’m pretty sure I’ll be able to get a mould from hobby craft, but need a material and idea Of how I could do it.
It needs to be the correct thickness so vac form is out (not that I have the equipment)
Anyone have an idea?

If it's a small Kinder egg, you could try making a silicone mould and cast one from resin. Obviously you'd have to do the whole process at low temperature. You can buy full resin casting kits - I've got one and it's pretty easy to do if you follow some simple rules (you can easily find online tutorials).

Or as you say, get a mould from Hobbycraft and just buy some resin and release agent.

Or, it would be a simple matter to 3D print one in resin, or even FDM if you're willing to do some smoothing.

[robemcdonald]

dr_gn said:

robemcdonald said:

I did a bit of advice. I want to replicate a chocolate egg (kinder) but with some kind permanent material.

The idea is to effectively make a fake kinder egg as per my picture in the other thread.

I’m pretty sure I’ll be able to get a mould from hobby craft, but need a material and idea Of how I could do it.
It needs to be the correct thickness so vac form is out (not that I have the equipment)
Anyone have an idea?

If it's a small Kinder egg, you could try making a silicone mould and cast one from resin. Obviously you'd have to do the whole process at low temperature. You can buy full resin casting kits - I've got one and it's pretty easy to do if you follow some simple rules (you can easily find online tutorials).

Or as you say, get a mould from Hobbycraft and just buy some resin and release agent.

Or, it would be a simple matter to 3D print one in resin, or even FDM if you're willing to do some smoothing.

3D printing is the way to go I think. A colleague has a FDM. I will give him a call.

Thanks