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Marshdweller
Original Poster
75 posts
32 months
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As I threatened in one of the recent GB threads, I've decided to create a "Modelling Tips" thread. :P
It seemed logical to me to have a one stop shop for advice for all types of modelling questions; one in which hopefully the more talented members can assist the less capable of us by passing on their tips and techniques. In some cases, this might simply be a link to a Youtube video or another website where the answer is already given in great detail.
Either way, I hope this takes off and also helps prevent the forum from getting cluttered up by lots of individual advice threads.
If the mods see fit to sticky this thread, or even turn it into a Wiki (I've never created a Wiki before, and was rather reluctant to start now) that would be great.
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Marshdweller
Original Poster
75 posts
32 months
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I'm going to start things off by asking two questions, both about model aeroplanes:
1. What's the best way to paint the glass canopy?
2. When working in 1/72, what's the best way to paint the wheels? I always seem to get black paint on the silver bit and vice versa (for example).
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The_Jackal
2,812 posts
66 months
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Good idea.
Painting canopies:
Learn to mask carefully with masking tape. This can be made easier and better by trimming the tape lengthways with a steel rule on a cutting mat first. This thinner strip will be easier to bend round the curves and the cut edge will be straighter and less likely to bleed. After applying burnish down the edge with the end of a blunt cocktail stick to again make sure no paint bleeds under the tape.
For your first coat of paint use black or what ever colour should appear on the inside, then apply the outward camo colours ontop.
Believe me, the more you do it the easier it gets and you will be impressed with the better finish if you take the time and effort.
Painting wheels:
Paint the centres first.
Then use a very diluted mix of your tyre colour and using a very fine pointed brush just touch the crease where the wheel joins the tyre so the paint spreads using capillary action. Touch a few times round the outside till the crease is filled in. Then you will find it easier to paint the rest of the tyre not having to go too close to the wheel centre.
Again the more you do it the easier it gets.
Hope those help.
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Red Firecracker
4,172 posts
96 months
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Good idea. Might be worth creating it as a Wiki rather than a plain thread though?
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Marshdweller
Original Poster
75 posts
32 months
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Red Firecracker said: Good idea. Might be worth creating it as a Wiki rather than a plain thread though? Marshdweller said: If the mods see fit to sticky this thread, or even turn it into a Wiki (I've never created a Wiki before, and was rather reluctant to start now) that would be great.   I'll give it a go, but be warned, I might make a mess of the forum if it all goes horribly wrong...
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Z06George
1,694 posts
58 months
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Could someone answer a canopy question that isn't answered in the wiki please? I got some paint where I shouldn't have ( I'm still new t painting canopies) now it wouldn't wipe off so I dabbed a tiny bit of cloth on some white spirit to get rid of it. I have done this before and it worked, it worked again but this time the canopy has become blurry. I'm guessing it's taken the finish off the plastic. Is there a way to correct my silly mitake?
I will post pictures of the finished plane when I sort this out.
Cheers
George
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Eric Mc
67,253 posts
134 months
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Get hold of some polishing mesh type cloths which go in progressive stages from 3,600 to 12,000. Start polishing with the lower numbered mesh and gradually work the canopy using higher and higher numbered cloths. Initially, the canopy will look even more foggy but as you work through the numbers, the clarity will reappear.
To finish off the job, dip the canopy in some Johnson's Klear. Leave the canopy to dry for 24 hours and he-presto - you will have a beautifully restored canopy.
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perdu
3,251 posts
68 months
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Eric Mc said: Get hold of some polishing mesh type cloths which go in progressive stages from 3,600 to 12,000. Start polishing with the lower numbered mesh and gradually work the canopy using higher and higher numbered cloths. Initially, the canopy will look even more foggy but as you work through the numbers, the clarity will reappear.
To finish off the job, dip the canopy in some Johnson's Klear. Leave the canopy to dry for 24 hours and he-presto - you will have a beautifully restored canopy. If you have to you can polish the canopy after using an abrasive (I'm old fashioned and use 1200 grit wet'n'dry TBH) with toothpaste on a piece of soft cotton fabric. It will bring a truly clear finish to the canopy, which if you are lucky enough to own a bottle of Klear can then be made almost miraculously transparent. If you do get a smear of paint where you don't want it, let the paint dry and then scrape it away from the unwanted clear bit with a very sharp modelling knife tip. Use it very lightly just lifting paint not plastic and you can often get away with a firm rub over with a ('nother) piece of cotton cloth. It is amazing just how well a simple remedy like that can clean stuff off for you rather than getting involved with harsh chemical stuff.
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Z06George
1,694 posts
58 months
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Thanks very much for the info guys, I have got wet'n'dry in the loft so I shall give that method a go. I'm pretty sure I have some Klear too but if I don't is this easily available at a model shop?
Edited to say the Klear I found is actually Clear 35 which I'm guessing is basically a finish to go over paint work, you can see how much of a novice I am.
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dr_gn
6,916 posts
53 months
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Z06George said: Thanks very much for the info guys, I have got wet'n'dry in the loft so I shall give that method a go. I'm pretty sure I have some Klear too but if I don't is this easily available at a model shop?
Edited to say the Klear I found is actually Clear 35 which I'm guessing is basically a finish to go over paint work, you can see how much of a novice I am.
I'd try Brasso for starters - no point using anything more abrasive is it's just a minor discolouration.
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Tuscan Rat
3,239 posts
92 months
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Can't Wiki it as i'm not that clever, however have made sticky. Just been written off for another month after being knocked off motorbike so to keep my brain active I have just ordered this, I have wanted to build a truck for a while, if all goes well will invest in a trailer for it.  My question is, tips for an easy way to spray the bulk of the cab ? Other than spraying lexan Tamiya shells I have never painted anything this big, always been smaller planes etc...
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dr_gn
6,916 posts
53 months
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Tuscan Rat said: Can't Wiki it as i'm not that clever, however have made sticky. Just been written off for another month after being knocked off motorbike so to keep my brain active I have just ordered this, I have wanted to build a truck for a while, if all goes well will invest in a trailer for it. My question is, tips for an easy way to spray the bulk of the cab ? Other than spraying lexan Tamiya shells I have never painted anything this big, always been smaller planes etc... If you haven't got an airbrush, Halfords Plastic Primer spray can followed by the appropriate spray can colour on top, possibly followed by clear spray lacquer is probably your best option.
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Negative Creep
11,267 posts
96 months
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I'd use car paint for something that size, the downside being it's hard to touch up if you miss anything. A good tip I have is to use Tip-Ex pen such as this for small filler work  They spread out in the gap, dry in seconds and can be easily sanded back
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steveo3002
2,314 posts
43 months
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car and truck tyres can be made to look more realistic by rubbing the tread over sandpaper , gives them a used look
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steveo3002
2,314 posts
43 months
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next time youre at the £1 shop buy a couple of the telescopic magnet pick up tools , that gives sevral lengths of various diameter tube that slips inside each other , lots of uses such as tail pipes , axles , engine parts etc
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steveo3002
2,314 posts
43 months
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if you need some scale sheet steel /metal , save a foil chinesse takeaway container and its a spot on , cuts easily and holds its shape while still being thin
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Alex@POD
3,508 posts
84 months
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What's the best way to avoid an orange peel effect when spraying a clear coat?
I've tried rubbing it down, but it takes the shine away... then another coat brings back the peel...
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dr_gn
6,916 posts
53 months
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Alex@POD said: What's the best way to avoid an orange peel effect when spraying a clear coat?
I've tried rubbing it down, but it takes the shine away... then another coat brings back the peel...
Use T-Cut or this:  Followed by Autoglym polish or similar. Avoiding the orange peel in the first place depends on lots of things like paint thinning, distance of airbrush from surface, how fast you move the airbrush, ambient temp/humidity etc etc. I've never been able to avoid it, so resort to the T-cut/car polish method. Worked fine on the S2000 though, and that's what I'll be doing with the latest Jaguar.
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Alex@POD
3,508 posts
84 months
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I shall try that, I haven't cleared the car yet, just been trying spare decals on the spare parts, to make sure nothing reacts. I'll report back.
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jmorgan
17,011 posts
153 months
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Panel lines, if that is the right term. The edges in the moulding being brought out, any pointers there?
Just started again after fits and starts over the last few years.
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