Modelling tips
Discussion
tight5 said:
Do you guys get kits, paints and decals online ?
Any websites you'd recommend ?
Thanks.
Hannants - it's a bit of a clunky website, but for aircraft kits it's great. Try Hiroboy or GPM for cars.Any websites you'd recommend ?
Thanks.
I usually get paints (Vallejo) from EBay or Amazon.
TBH I try to buy as much stuff as I can from model shows.
dr_gn said:
Hannants - it's a bit of a clunky website, but for aircraft kits it's great. Try Hiroboy or GPM for cars.
I usually get paints (Vallejo) from EBay or Amazon.
TBH I try to buy as much stuff as I can from model shows.
I use tamiya paints a lot, but Vallejo seems to be the pros choice. Is it much better? Do you need to thin it for air brushing?I usually get paints (Vallejo) from EBay or Amazon.
TBH I try to buy as much stuff as I can from model shows.
robemcdonald said:
dr_gn said:
Hannants - it's a bit of a clunky website, but for aircraft kits it's great. Try Hiroboy or GPM for cars.
I usually get paints (Vallejo) from EBay or Amazon.
TBH I try to buy as much stuff as I can from model shows.
I use tamiya paints a lot, but Vallejo seems to be the pros choice. Is it much better? Do you need to thin it for air brushing?I usually get paints (Vallejo) from EBay or Amazon.
TBH I try to buy as much stuff as I can from model shows.
I find Vallejo much better than Tamiya for brush painting, especially when thinned slightly and, again, used in conjunction with retarder medium (delays drying).
i take a full size skeleton with me when i go driving abroad ( don't ask long story ) i'm trying to get the head to turn with motors and gears, need some help with what motors to use as all the ones i find are just spinning ones, i need one witch turns the head from side to side ( just scare the people take photos ) and controls to make it turn left or right.
Try looking at a servo
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Servo_(radio_contr...
You will probably need a mechanism of some sorts as well (gears or levers)
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Servo_(radio_contr...
You will probably need a mechanism of some sorts as well (gears or levers)
When you're buying enamel paint, make sure it does exactly what it says on the tin. I found quite recently that tins of Humbrol 11 silver enamel, actually contains 56 aluminium enamel. I believe these paints are, or were produced in China. Someone didn't do their job right.
Revell clear red enamel paint. Don't use it. No matter how much you stir it, it'll still be thick and lumpy. Opt for the Humbrol equivalent. It looks and smells like cough syrup. But it's better than Revell.
Revell clear red enamel paint. Don't use it. No matter how much you stir it, it'll still be thick and lumpy. Opt for the Humbrol equivalent. It looks and smells like cough syrup. But it's better than Revell.
Edited by Langweilig on Tuesday 30th January 21:30
Langweilig said:
When you're buying enamel paint, make sure it does exactly what it says on the tin. I found quite recently that tins of Humbrol 11 silver enamel, actually contains 56 aluminium enamel. I believe these paints are, or were produced in China. Someone didn't do their job right.
Revell clear red enamel paint. Don't use it. No matter how much you stir it, it'll still be thick and lumpy. Opt for the Humbrol equivalent. It looks and smells like cough syrup. But it's better than Revell.
TBH I've found both Humbrol and Revell to be so inconsistent in quality, I never use either. I stick with Vallejo or Tamiya and be done with it.Revell clear red enamel paint. Don't use it. No matter how much you stir it, it'll still be thick and lumpy. Opt for the Humbrol equivalent. It looks and smells like cough syrup. But it's better than Revell.
Edited by Langweilig on Tuesday 30th January 21:30
Me too. I would only use Revell and humbrol as an absolute last resort.
On the subject of paints though. I think my quest for an acrylic natural metal finish has come to an end. The Vallejo metal finish range. It's been around a while, but I have only just discovered them.
I'm currrntly using them on a 1/72 mustang and they are truly excellent in every way and buffable too.
On the subject of paints though. I think my quest for an acrylic natural metal finish has come to an end. The Vallejo metal finish range. It's been around a while, but I have only just discovered them.
I'm currrntly using them on a 1/72 mustang and they are truly excellent in every way and buffable too.
robemcdonald said:
Me too. I would only use Revell and humbrol as an absolute last resort.
On the subject of paints though. I think my quest for an acrylic natural metal finish has come to an end. The Vallejo metal finish range. It's been around a while, but I have only just discovered them.
I'm currrntly using them on a 1/72 mustang and they are truly excellent in every way and buffable too.
Looks great. The Standard Vallejo Air metallics are also very smooth, much smoother than the standard Model Colour equivalents.On the subject of paints though. I think my quest for an acrylic natural metal finish has come to an end. The Vallejo metal finish range. It's been around a while, but I have only just discovered them.
I'm currrntly using them on a 1/72 mustang and they are truly excellent in every way and buffable too.
grant666uk said:
Well I am back, After a year off building fake Lego I thought it was time to dig out the airbrush and the Zaku ver ka that I put away half finished.
So I am almost done with it. Just fixing the face tubing and adding the 1000 water slides. Then its put it all together and done.
Looking very good. Would be good to have it on a separate build thread though rather than in "modelling tips". I'm in the process of building an old Imai mech, so I'd be interested to see it.So I am almost done with it. Just fixing the face tubing and adding the 1000 water slides. Then its put it all together and done.
A quick question regarding masking. I want to respray a 1:43 scale model car in the colour of the one I owned as as teenager. So, looking at the image of the model below what would be the best way of masking the windows, lamps and chrome etc. I am thinking of using Tamia masking tape applied over everything and then cutting it away with a very sharp scalpel. I obviously I will have to re-touch the silver/chrome in places but, for example, I would like to retain the chrome trims on the front wings. Incidentally I want to go from red to mid-blue. How successful do you think I could be?
RichB said:
A quick question regarding masking. I want to respray a 1:43 scale model car in the colour of the one I owned as as teenager. So, looking at the image of the model below what would be the best way of masking the windows, lamps and chrome etc. I am thinking of using Tamia masking tape applied over everything and then cutting it away with a very sharp scalpel. I obviously I will have to re-touch the silver/chrome in places but, for example, I would like to retain the chrome trims on the front wings. Incidentally I want to go from red to mid-blue. How successful do you think I could be?
Try to take it to bits as much as possible. Trying to mask the painted trim will be tricky.tight5 said:
Anyone had any experience of Anigrand Craftswork kits ?
They have some kits i like the look of but are quite expensive, so don't want to get them if they are rubbish.
Cheers.
I’ve looked at their 1/48 scale firefox a few times, but have never had the courage to order one.They have some kits i like the look of but are quite expensive, so don't want to get them if they are rubbish.
Cheers.
I just have a nagging feeling that what I received wouldn’t look like this
I too would be interested in any first hand experiences
Novice question really (from a 65 year old who hasn't built plastic kits for a while but getting back into it).
I'm in the process of building a Revell 1/76 triplane (quite small), how do you avoid a big blob of cement coming out of the tube?
TBH the model is so delicate a big blob might help but it's not "professional".
Had a similar situation with the Typhoon I built last year, the one the MIL smashed.
I'm in the process of building a Revell 1/76 triplane (quite small), how do you avoid a big blob of cement coming out of the tube?
TBH the model is so delicate a big blob might help but it's not "professional".
Had a similar situation with the Typhoon I built last year, the one the MIL smashed.
Skyedriver said:
Novice question really (from a 65 year old who hasn't built plastic kits for a while but getting back into it).
I'm in the process of building a Revell 1/76 triplane (quite small), how do you avoid a big blob of cement coming out of the tube?
TBH the model is so delicate a big blob might help but it's not "professional".
Had a similar situation with the Typhoon I built last year, the one the MIL smashed.
This is the answer to all your problems.I'm in the process of building a Revell 1/76 triplane (quite small), how do you avoid a big blob of cement coming out of the tube?
TBH the model is so delicate a big blob might help but it's not "professional".
Had a similar situation with the Typhoon I built last year, the one the MIL smashed.
About £5 a pot from hobbycraft or your local independent model shop.
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