Tamiya Honda S2000
Discussion
I'm surprised your clear coat is dull. I very rarely need to polish it out, but use a Micromesh kit when I do (which is normaly due to environmental conditions).
My process for clearing with the pre-mix clear is to apply a very light coat at about 10psi to seal and then wait a couple of hours. Then a couple of wet coats at about 5psi separated by 30 minutes and then another wet coat the next day (my timings are based around me doing other things more than anything else).
My process for clearing with the pre-mix clear is to apply a very light coat at about 10psi to seal and then wait a couple of hours. Then a couple of wet coats at about 5psi separated by 30 minutes and then another wet coat the next day (my timings are based around me doing other things more than anything else).
Red Firecracker said:
I'm surprised your clear coat is dull. I very rarely need to polish it out, but use a Micromesh kit when I do (which is normaly due to environmental conditions).
My process for clearing with the pre-mix clear is to apply a very light coat at about 10psi to seal and then wait a couple of hours. Then a couple of wet coats at about 5psi separated by 30 minutes and then another wet coat the next day (my timings are based around me doing other things more than anything else).
Thanks for the advice, but I'm stripping the whole lot and starting again with my own paint mix. any ideas on how to strip this stuff? I'll take some pics of the Zero Paint result before I strip it.My process for clearing with the pre-mix clear is to apply a very light coat at about 10psi to seal and then wait a couple of hours. Then a couple of wet coats at about 5psi separated by 30 minutes and then another wet coat the next day (my timings are based around me doing other things more than anything else).
I'm considering packing the whole lot back to the guy and asking for my money back. As far as I'm concerned the whole 're-engineered for a more scale meallic finish' is a load of guff (TBH I wasn't conviced when I spoke to him on the 'phone the other day). A scale metallic either looks right or wrong - this looks totally wrong. ETA I'm sure they do *something* to the flake size, but it's certainly not anywhere near 1:24 scale to my eyes at least.
Edited by dr_gn on Monday 25th April 09:48
Red Firecracker said:
I've never had to strip paint froma plastic shell but the traditional brake fluid for a slow strip of Isopropol Alchohol (IPA) for a quicker strip are what I have seen recommended.
Sorry to hear you didn't get on with it though.
Yeah it's a shame, but at least I had a go with it. I'm sure the Zero Paint solid coulours are very good.Sorry to hear you didn't get on with it though.
Never had an issue with them, to be honest, and looking back through some pictures of previous silver models I've painted there is zero flake visible.
Still, as you say, you'd never have known if you hadn't have tried them. Might be an idea to test the paint stripping methods as well on some painted sprue.
Still, as you say, you'd never have known if you hadn't have tried them. Might be an idea to test the paint stripping methods as well on some painted sprue.
Red Firecracker said:
I'm certainly not going to argue with you.
To compare a Mercedes;
which was painted with Zero silver.
There's obviously something wrong here. I just emailed him and I don't think he will be in any doubt about how I feel about having ruined a decent model.To compare a Mercedes;
which was painted with Zero silver.
Pretty sure I won't get a reply, just like I didn't with the initial enquiry.
dr_gn said:
There's obviously something wrong here. I just emailed him and I don't think he will be in any doubt about how I feel about having ruined a decent model.
Pretty sure I won't get a reply, just like I didn't with the initial enquiry.
As I said before, if you need to speak to him, it really is best to ring him up.Pretty sure I won't get a reply, just like I didn't with the initial enquiry.
The_Jackal said:
I'm guessing you are looking at progressing thru the micromesh cloths?
I have to say, I assumed Zero paints were the dogs danglies, but it looks like it might be worth mixing your own concoction from Alcad et al.
After this weekends experience I now officially don't see any advantage whatsoever of using Zero paints. The colour match service is good I suppose (even though I've built around 20 F1 cars and never had the slightest problem getting the right shade with enamels including the metallic black/grey of the Tyrrell 020).I have to say, I assumed Zero paints were the dogs danglies, but it looks like it might be worth mixing your own concoction from Alcad et al.
With the Tamiya S2000 (or any decent car model) the bodywork straight from the mould is virtually flawless. Very smooth and shiny.
With zero paints you have to go through an elaborate sequence of processes:
1) You need to use a primer becasue the basecoat will attack the plastic.
2) You have to key the plastic with a light abrasive - this obviously destroys some of the original flatness and shine (from now on you're playing catch-up with the finish).
3) You spray on a primer - again, this introduces even more roughness to the once perfect surface.
4) You flat the primer down. This is not only very difficult or impossible around wing mirrors, A/B/C pillars, radiator intakes etc., but it also ruins the fidelity of some of the fine surface detail such as windscreen washer jets, badges, door handles etc.
5) Then repeat 4) ad nauseum, becasue you're bound to remove the primer from certain areas.
6) Basecoat time. Spray. Flat. Spray. Flat.
7) Clearcoat. Spray. Lots. Polish. Lots (again, virtually impossible around aforementioed details). BTW, I did get a good finish with T-Cut on the S2000, but it just made the metallic flakes look even more prominent.
What a chuffing joke.
With enamels you:
1) Spray the paint on in two or three coats, and you get a beautiful deep shine.
2) Sit back and admire.
Anyway.
I went back to plan a) and mixed my own colour using Citadel Myrthil Silver and Revall Aqua Colour Black. Both are water soluble. The result was much better. I did use the Zero Clear Lacquer (mainly because it looks like I'm stuck with it - No response to my complaint e-mail to Steve at Hiroboy). The lacquer needs polishing, but is already a better finish than with the Zero basecoat:
Here is a direct comparison with the Citadel:Aqua mix, and the Zero paint. Looking through a loupe, the Zero flake size is roughtly twice as large as the Citadel mix:
I went back to plan a) and mixed my own colour using Citadel Myrthil Silver and Revall Aqua Colour Black. Both are water soluble. The result was much better. I did use the Zero Clear Lacquer (mainly because it looks like I'm stuck with it - No response to my complaint e-mail to Steve at Hiroboy). The lacquer needs polishing, but is already a better finish than with the Zero basecoat:
Here is a direct comparison with the Citadel:Aqua mix, and the Zero paint. Looking through a loupe, the Zero flake size is roughtly twice as large as the Citadel mix:
Finished the floor pan last night. I used MIG Dark Wash in the aluminium castings, and Tamiya gunmetal mascara on the black suspension components. Not sure whether to overcoat with Klear: I don't want a high gloss finish on my carefully painted satin bits, but depending what the base finish is, Klear sometimes does dry with a satin sheen.
Gassing Station | Scale Models | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff