Tamiya Honda S2000

[dr_gn]

Red Firecracker said:

dr_gn said:

The Zero metallic silver was so appallingly bad that I ended up using Citadel silvers. They were definitely dry before overcoating, and the weather was very warm when I sprayed the varnish.

I look forward to seeing the restored back to glory S2000

How? Looks like it's only fit for the bin to me.

[Red Firecracker]

dr_gn said:

How? Looks like it's only fit for the bin to me.

Remove body, strip, repaint with matched colour and clearcoat. That's what I would do. Obviosuly depends on how you have fixed the body to chassis etc.

[perdu]

Red Firecracker said:

Remove body, strip, repaint with matched colour and clearcoat. That's what I would do. Obviosuly depends on how you have fixed the body to chassis etc.

You know this makes sense, it'ld be awful to waste such a fine piece of workmanship.

Any model is more than "just" a model when it's finished, yours deserve accolades.

Technically its obvious/it would appear that the top coat has shrunk due to some of its constituents drying out further than the under paint has. I can't see the under paint expanding instead, so the brittle top lacquer has had to crack as it shrinks.

Whichever way it was I'm now in favour of one type colouring...

[dr_gn]

Red Firecracker said:

dr_gn said:

How? Looks like it's only fit for the bin to me.

Remove body, strip, repaint with matched colour and clearcoat. That's what I would do. Obviosuly depends on how you have fixed the body to chassis etc.

The chassis is just clipped on, and I'm sure I could break the glue holding the screen on. In fact the only real problem would be the lights - I've even got a spare set of badges.

It's a hell of a big motivation request though...

[dr_gn]

perdu said:

Red Firecracker said:

Remove body, strip, repaint with matched colour and clearcoat. That's what I would do. Obviosuly depends on how you have fixed the body to chassis etc.

You know this makes sense, it'ld be awful to waste such a fine piece of workmanship.

Any model is more than "just" a model when it's finished, yours deserve accolades.

Technically its obvious/it would appear that the top coat has shrunk due to some of its constituents drying out further than the under paint has. I can't see the under paint expanding instead, so the brittle top lacquer has had to crack as it shrinks.

Whichever way it was I'm now in favour of one type colouring...

You're right - it's a classic stress-crack pattern of a surface under tension. The (pre-thinned)lacquer has alsmost certainly shrunk - massively.

I appreciate the comments, and it was my best model car, but the real reason I was pleased with it was the paintwork, which is now ruined.

I might just have a go at a repair, it's not nice to look at, and it's more exerience I guess.

[dr_gn]

Red Firecracker said:

dr_gn said:

How? Looks like it's only fit for the bin to me.

Remove body, strip, repaint with matched colour and clearcoat. That's what I would do. Obviosuly depends on how you have fixed the body to chassis etc.

OK, so the Zero Paints lacquer freakshow continues...here's the body after 3 hours in Mr. Muscle oven cleaner. Don't ask me what the black in the crack lines is - the plastic body was silver, and it was painted...silver. I wonder if I'd actually *wanted* that effect, if it'd have come out so perfectly defined?

[Red Firecracker]

I'll be very surprised if you remove the clear coat with Mr Muscle, brake fluid will be your friend. The black lines will be the Mr Muscle reacting with the water based silvers underneath.

Good to see you're going to kick it into shape.

[dr_gn]

Red Firecracker said:

I'll be very surprised if you remove the clear coat with Mr Muscle, brake fluid will be your friend. The black lines will be the Mr Muscle reacting with the water based silvers underneath.

Good to see you're going to kick it into shape.

Thanks for the tip.

There's some weird science going on there I can tell you.

[perdu]

I've a bottle of old brake fluid that I tried to remove the paint from my "gift" Matchbox Wessex. It hardly moved the gloss paint my donator had used but Tesco Oven Cleaner did the trick.

Mr Muscle wasn't very useful when I tried it But I can see that the hard lacquer coat will be a beast of a different safari

I rather like that crackle effect, beware BMW using it on their next Art Car

[dr_gn]

perdu said:

I rather like that crackle effect, beware BMW using it on their next Art Car

I think it looks brilliant. Shame I didn't want it in that particular place.

[perdu]

I don't suppose it will fingernail off will it?

[dr_gn]

perdu said:

I don't suppose it will fingernail off will it?

I think as RF and you suggested, brake fluid should have been the weapon of choice. In fact thinking about it, that's how I removed the original Zero Silver back in May.

Luckily I seem to have assembled the body parts with PVA canopy glue, so it was (fairly) easy to dismantle everything without damage. The only things I'm struggling with are the circular rear lamp lenses - inset into sockets. I thought about drilling into the plastic behind them and pushing them out with a drift, then filling the holes up.

Why are all my models such hard work?

Why do I even enjoy this stuff?

Do I even enjoy it?

[Red Firecracker]

I had a bit of a surprise yesterday, in my paint removing exploits. My normal media for diecast models is caustic soda and boiling water, works a treat. For more modern stuff, it's not so good so old fashioned paint stripper is the order of the day. I'd run out so as the missus was going past B&Q, she popped in and got some. I was expecting the normal metal tin. Nope, plastic bottle.

This was a surprise.

Even more of a surprise was that it worked a treat. I have yet to try it on a plastic or resin model, but I may do so later on today.