2005 clio 1.5 dci - things to look out for?
Discussion
I'm going to pick up a 100k miler shortly to bear the brunt of 1k per month commutes, for a few months.
I'm having a new cambelt fitted and can see the last owner had a new turbo fitted about 15k ago which alerts me to checking the EGR valve. The seller (ex Renault mechanic) has also resealed the sunroof (no evidence of water ingress though).
Other than this it seems to have needed new coil springs.
Any other common foibles/things I should be looking for?
I'm having a new cambelt fitted and can see the last owner had a new turbo fitted about 15k ago which alerts me to checking the EGR valve. The seller (ex Renault mechanic) has also resealed the sunroof (no evidence of water ingress though).
Other than this it seems to have needed new coil springs.
Any other common foibles/things I should be looking for?
Answering my own question (in the event it helps others):
Auxiliary and cambelt - cambelt was okay but I changed it anyway. Auxiliary was perished and also needed to be changed
EGR valve - have this split down and cleaned. Should be done as part of a normal Renault service (mine hadn't been, given condition). If the turbo has been replaced recently and the vehicle is relatively low mileage, then definitely worth checking the EGR valve as this can cause the turbo to burn out if it begins to stick
ABS rings - corrosion may cause the rings on the driveshafts to crack or foul the sensors. The ABS warning light will trigger above 60 mph, meaning it is deactivated. At lower speeds, you may feel the ABS kicking in unnecessarily before this happens. Cheap part to replace but harder to fit a new one to the passenger side. Requires wheel and drive shaft removal/replacement.
Airbag - there are contacts below each front seat. Moving seats in 3 door models can affect the connection quality. Disconnect, clean and re-connect. Solder the connections if this keeps happening (may already have been done). If this doesn't work, a diagnostic will be needed - mine had a jammed side-impact circuit switch (accessed below mid point of seat rails on the face of the door sills). If this doesn't re-set a new one can be fitted quite quickly.
Auxiliary and cambelt - cambelt was okay but I changed it anyway. Auxiliary was perished and also needed to be changed
EGR valve - have this split down and cleaned. Should be done as part of a normal Renault service (mine hadn't been, given condition). If the turbo has been replaced recently and the vehicle is relatively low mileage, then definitely worth checking the EGR valve as this can cause the turbo to burn out if it begins to stick
ABS rings - corrosion may cause the rings on the driveshafts to crack or foul the sensors. The ABS warning light will trigger above 60 mph, meaning it is deactivated. At lower speeds, you may feel the ABS kicking in unnecessarily before this happens. Cheap part to replace but harder to fit a new one to the passenger side. Requires wheel and drive shaft removal/replacement.
Airbag - there are contacts below each front seat. Moving seats in 3 door models can affect the connection quality. Disconnect, clean and re-connect. Solder the connections if this keeps happening (may already have been done). If this doesn't work, a diagnostic will be needed - mine had a jammed side-impact circuit switch (accessed below mid point of seat rails on the face of the door sills). If this doesn't re-set a new one can be fitted quite quickly.
jpp said:
Answering my own question (in the event it helps others):
Auxiliary and cambelt - cambelt was okay but I changed it anyway. Auxiliary was perished and also needed to be changed
EGR valve - have this split down and cleaned. Should be done as part of a normal Renault service (mine hadn't been, given condition). If the turbo has been replaced recently and the vehicle is relatively low mileage, then definitely worth checking the EGR valve as this can cause the turbo to burn out if it begins to stick
ABS rings - corrosion may cause the rings on the driveshafts to crack or foul the sensors. The ABS warning light will trigger above 60 mph, meaning it is deactivated. At lower speeds, you may feel the ABS kicking in unnecessarily before this happens. Cheap part to replace but harder to fit a new one to the passenger side. Requires wheel and drive shaft removal/replacement.
Airbag - there are contacts below each front seat. Moving seats in 3 door models can affect the connection quality. Disconnect, clean and re-connect. Solder the connections if this keeps happening (may already have been done). If this doesn't work, a diagnostic will be needed - mine had a jammed side-impact circuit switch (accessed below mid point of seat rails on the face of the door sills). If this doesn't re-set a new one can be fitted quite quickly.
Thanks for the follow-up!Auxiliary and cambelt - cambelt was okay but I changed it anyway. Auxiliary was perished and also needed to be changed
EGR valve - have this split down and cleaned. Should be done as part of a normal Renault service (mine hadn't been, given condition). If the turbo has been replaced recently and the vehicle is relatively low mileage, then definitely worth checking the EGR valve as this can cause the turbo to burn out if it begins to stick
ABS rings - corrosion may cause the rings on the driveshafts to crack or foul the sensors. The ABS warning light will trigger above 60 mph, meaning it is deactivated. At lower speeds, you may feel the ABS kicking in unnecessarily before this happens. Cheap part to replace but harder to fit a new one to the passenger side. Requires wheel and drive shaft removal/replacement.
Airbag - there are contacts below each front seat. Moving seats in 3 door models can affect the connection quality. Disconnect, clean and re-connect. Solder the connections if this keeps happening (may already have been done). If this doesn't work, a diagnostic will be needed - mine had a jammed side-impact circuit switch (accessed below mid point of seat rails on the face of the door sills). If this doesn't re-set a new one can be fitted quite quickly.
I had one 10yrs ago. Got an ex-demo on 18k at 12mths old. Only trouble I had in 12 months was a leaking big end seal which knackered the clutch as well. All done under warranty.
My mum still has the car and it's still going strong having needed virtually nothing, save for some recent electrical trouble relating to the alarm. Best car I've had for refusing to return rubbish mpg. Would never go below 50mpg.
My mum still has the car and it's still going strong having needed virtually nothing, save for some recent electrical trouble relating to the alarm. Best car I've had for refusing to return rubbish mpg. Would never go below 50mpg.
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