Buying a 306 GTi-6 - cambelt advice needed
Discussion
LeeThr said:
GeordieInExile said:
S10GTA said:
The good lady is posting it today. Should be with you by the end of the week.
Top, top man. Thank you so much, let me know what the postage costs and how to get it to you.Chr1sh, ta for the advice - I'll get it looked over by a local specialist when I get the cambelt changed and see what they think the issue with the gearchange is.
I've noticed the STOP light has been flickering on intermittently - it does it for a fraction of a second then goes off again. Nowt to worry about, right?
S10GTA said:
What he said. Coolant level will likely be the culprit imho
After leaving the lights on all day by mistake on Friday, and subsequently killing the battery flat (got a jump, all is now fine), the STOP light has decided to make itself a permanent fixture of my dashboard.None of the other lights are on and the thing is driving fine... I'll give it a bit of coolant and see if that sorts it.
On the plus side, my cambelt and water pump arrived on Saturday - THANK YOU to S10GTA for your generosity, you're a gent.
GeordieInExile said:
After leaving the lights on all day by mistake on Friday, and subsequently killing the battery flat (got a jump, all is now fine), the STOP light has decided to make itself a permanent fixture of my dashboard.
None of the other lights are on and the thing is driving fine... I'll give it a bit of coolant and see if that sorts it.
On the plus side, my cambelt and water pump arrived on Saturday - THANK YOU to S10GTA for your generosity, you're a gent.
No worries. Don't worry about payment, just chuck a few quid in a charity pot if you feel like it.None of the other lights are on and the thing is driving fine... I'll give it a bit of coolant and see if that sorts it.
On the plus side, my cambelt and water pump arrived on Saturday - THANK YOU to S10GTA for your generosity, you're a gent.
Idle issues are normally down to idle control valve sticking or could be a knackered inlet manifold gasket. Neither of these should throw up a STOP light though so maybe that's a coincidence? Failing that could be an issue with plugs/leads/injectors but would have to be fairly severe to bring up the light. Are the revs juddering about on idle?
Having a shagged battery (which you may or may not have now) can do strange things as well. If all the clocks go to max when you fire it up then return to zero it's on its last legs.
If you're low on coolant you'll notice the temp going up sharply when you hammer it. The gauge is a bit vague but better than most modern cars and should sit at about 90 on a '6 engine and if it isn't getting up to tem (stuck 'stat) it could make it idle strangely I suppose. Leaks are primarily going to be the rad or thermostat but they're a t
t to bleed as well so if it's not warming up properly or the temp is fluctuating it's worth bleeding properly (google "coke bottle bleed 306) if there are no obvious leaks.
Having said all that I'd find out if there's any low fluids first
Having a shagged battery (which you may or may not have now) can do strange things as well. If all the clocks go to max when you fire it up then return to zero it's on its last legs.
If you're low on coolant you'll notice the temp going up sharply when you hammer it. The gauge is a bit vague but better than most modern cars and should sit at about 90 on a '6 engine and if it isn't getting up to tem (stuck 'stat) it could make it idle strangely I suppose. Leaks are primarily going to be the rad or thermostat but they're a t
t to bleed as well so if it's not warming up properly or the temp is fluctuating it's worth bleeding properly (google "coke bottle bleed 306) if there are no obvious leaks.Having said all that I'd find out if there's any low fluids first
Edited by StoatInACoat on Tuesday 8th December 13:44
GeordieInExile said:
The temperature gauge is borked (always way over the red line as soon as I turn the key) - should probably get that sorted as well, really. Other gauges work fine, oil temperature seems fine.
When the STOP light is on it does feel a little bit juddery, aye.
I think the faulty temp gauge is upsetting the ECU and fuel mixture? if I remember there are two sensors on the back of the head,one for the gauge and one for the warning light.Have the wires been mixed up? or,with the gauge showing red line all the time could be the wire is shorting to earth somewhere? Failing all that fit new sensors.When the STOP light is on it does feel a little bit juddery, aye.
Old Merc said:
I think the faulty temp gauge is upsetting the ECU and fuel mixture? if I remember there are two sensors on the back of the head,one for the gauge and one for the warning light.Have the wires been mixed up? or,with the gauge showing red line all the time could be the wire is shorting to earth somewhere? Failing all that fit new sensors.
There's 3 sensors in the thermostat housing. But I can't remember more than that.Sorry,I was talking old model.If you have three sensors in the stat housing they are:- Green temp sensor for the ECU.
Blue temp sensor for the gauge.Brown temp sensor for the AC fan.
Best get it hooked up to planet or whatever at a small Peugeot/Citroen Independent and have the fault codes looked at.
Blue temp sensor for the gauge.Brown temp sensor for the AC fan.
Best get it hooked up to planet or whatever at a small Peugeot/Citroen Independent and have the fault codes looked at.
You guys were so helpful last time I asked a GTi-6 question that I thought I'd ask another one...
I've had a bit of a mishap. Basically, I wasn't paying attention, I clipped a traffic island and shredded the nearside front tyre. Such a pathetic thing to do - I've been concentrating harder since.
The problem is that since that, at any speed above 30mph the thing is veering off to one side under hard acceleration while the wheel moves slightly to the other. Releasing the accelerator makes it veer back and makes the wheel move back to where it should be.
So the question is, what have I damaged and how expensive is it going to be to fix?
On the bright side, the temperature gauge has fixed itself since I last posted in this thread and is showing normal temperature levels.
I've had a bit of a mishap. Basically, I wasn't paying attention, I clipped a traffic island and shredded the nearside front tyre. Such a pathetic thing to do - I've been concentrating harder since.
The problem is that since that, at any speed above 30mph the thing is veering off to one side under hard acceleration while the wheel moves slightly to the other. Releasing the accelerator makes it veer back and makes the wheel move back to where it should be.
So the question is, what have I damaged and how expensive is it going to be to fix?
On the bright side, the temperature gauge has fixed itself since I last posted in this thread and is showing normal temperature levels.
You have bent something. You *may* be able to adjust it out if you go to a wheel alignment place who knows their stuff and they can get it within the adjusters. However if you have bent something then it's new suspension arm (s) until it's straight. Maybe £200-300, depending on how much is bent.
You can't DIY this because you need the optical gear to work out what's bent. You can of course replace the bent bits once it's diagnosed, then take it back for a realignment.
You can't DIY this because you need the optical gear to work out what's bent. You can of course replace the bent bits once it's diagnosed, then take it back for a realignment.
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