R53 Cooper S Wheel Bearings

R53 Cooper S Wheel Bearings

Author
Discussion

NordicCrankShaft

Original Poster:

1,723 posts

115 months

Thursday 21st May 2015
quotequote all
Well my right hand side passenger wheel bearing is knackered, which is annoying as we where away this weekend with the car and it's a 4 hour drive.

Is the wheel bearing the same for every model of Mini?

The one I've got my eye on is this....

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Wheel-Bearing-Kit-Hub-ABS-...

Should these be ok? It's a lot cheaper than buying the part here in Norway as it's £150 just for the one side!!

Also, how easy are they to fit? Is it as easy as undoing the wheel, undoing a few bolts on the brake caliper,removing the disc, removing the old bearing and hub then putting it all back together?

CarsOrBikes

1,135 posts

184 months

Saturday 23rd May 2015
quotequote all
I don't think they're all the same, it comes as a hub, held with four bolts on the back, be careful of the abs sensor which will break easily, you don't have to remove it, and clean the recess in the hub carrier which will have rust around it, make sure the socket fits well on the bolts which will have rusted, one of mine I had to use a smaller socket on and only just got it. Clean any filings off the abs sensor. You don't have to take the hub carrier off, but if the bolt heads look rusty, you may find it a help, good time to check the shock top mounts for splits, if they are, do them while in there, same with brakes, discs etc.

NordicCrankShaft

Original Poster:

1,723 posts

115 months

Saturday 23rd May 2015
quotequote all
CarsOrBikes said:
I don't think they're all the same, it comes as a hub, held with four bolts on the back, be careful of the abs sensor which will break easily, you don't have to remove it, and clean the recess in the hub carrier which will have rust around it, make sure the socket fits well on the bolts which will have rusted, one of mine I had to use a smaller socket on and only just got it. Clean any filings off the abs sensor. You don't have to take the hub carrier off, but if the bolt heads look rusty, you may find it a help, good time to check the shock top mounts for splits, if they are, do them while in there, same with brakes, discs etc.
Thanks, what tools will I need as I'll be using some one else's garage so just want to check they have the right tools before hand, will definitely check the top mount not to worried about the brakes as I have a Wilwood 4 pot kit on order.

CarsOrBikes

1,135 posts

184 months

Tuesday 26th May 2015
quotequote all
I can't remember all the sizes haha

13mm for three top mount nuts, I think 16mm or 15mm for wheel bearing bolts, track rod end and lower arm ball joint will be open or combi spanner, but unsure from memory if 17 or 19mm. The abs sensor is an allen key maybe 5mm, but this may well not come out, if it does, the sensor probably won't release. The sensor is connected just behing the front inner splash guard, and usuallyhas its wire cable tied to the connector plug, so take a tiny tie or save the other, you may be able to slide it off. The sensor wire is also clipped to the chassis rail behind the strut, out of sight, try not to break the clip, it will pull 'down' but mine still broke and BMW supply an incorrect size replacement, so if you break it you will have to tie the wire away from the crank pulley! (ask me why) I mention the top mount bolts as it may be an idea to tackle it there rather than the lower shock mount which is 19mm, be warned these bolts break, and it will break at the head, meaning the rest of the bolt remains under the damper 'hook' preventing separation, so soak this for days before you do it! Then the driveshaft nut, again can't remember sorry, poss 32mm.

You're supposed to buy a new driveshaft nut, but they will go again, and you'll need a punch to peen it again.

Don't forget torque wrench, that hub nut takes quite a bit.

If it's just noisy, maybe do it all with the brakes. I can recommend braded hoses, with 'stainless' fittings, (there is a choice)

Good luck!

Don't forget a hammer, and use a ball joint separator if you wish to get them apart correctly, or I use a long bar to 'weight' in the direction of separation, then while 'weighted' clout it only once or twice and it jumps out. I hate seeing garages smack the st out of things waiting for them to 'fall'.

Going now or i'll be doing it for you haha