Charging problem 2004 Cooper Pepper Pack
Discussion
So stuck in traffic battery light started flickering, then after a bit the power steering cut out and lights dimmed. Traffic then started moving, road cleared, battery light still flickering but power steering returned. Managed to drive home, late at night so decided I'd investigate the following day.
So 1st thoughts alternators packing up, multimeter on battery 9volts so pull it out stick it on an optimate for the day, battery revived, read 13v put it back in start the car, it idled fine. Multimeter across terminals when running bouncing between 9v and 14v, so though yes alternators knackered.
Phoned local parts place gave them the reg they found Alternator 3 options asked for more car details phoned back 10minutes later yep know which of the 3 it is all fine.
Booked car in local garage to fit Alternator as quite honestly I couldn't be bothered.
This is where it goes wrong - they fit it then phone and say the power steering pump is knackered causing a big draw to battery and so lights still flickering. Never had any power steering issues with the car (I know they are common), a friend say he thinks that it's an unlikely culprit. So asks they unplug the power steering pump to check; they do and still same problem so isn't power steering pump. Now they say probably the wrong alternator. I think not as the original problem is still there, it sounds like something is shorting out.
I've done some googling and to me it sounds body control module is often the problem with similar problems.
Any suggestions as to next course of action what to investigate? I've asked the garage to check BCM connections are not wet.
So 1st thoughts alternators packing up, multimeter on battery 9volts so pull it out stick it on an optimate for the day, battery revived, read 13v put it back in start the car, it idled fine. Multimeter across terminals when running bouncing between 9v and 14v, so though yes alternators knackered.
Phoned local parts place gave them the reg they found Alternator 3 options asked for more car details phoned back 10minutes later yep know which of the 3 it is all fine.
Booked car in local garage to fit Alternator as quite honestly I couldn't be bothered.
This is where it goes wrong - they fit it then phone and say the power steering pump is knackered causing a big draw to battery and so lights still flickering. Never had any power steering issues with the car (I know they are common), a friend say he thinks that it's an unlikely culprit. So asks they unplug the power steering pump to check; they do and still same problem so isn't power steering pump. Now they say probably the wrong alternator. I think not as the original problem is still there, it sounds like something is shorting out.
I've done some googling and to me it sounds body control module is often the problem with similar problems.
Any suggestions as to next course of action what to investigate? I've asked the garage to check BCM connections are not wet.
Well still no joy with this, the local garage got an auto electrician out and he can't say for sure whats wrong. BCM is covered in dust and looks to never have seen any water. He suspects duff alternator or a charging control module that's part of the clocks - is this likely doesn't seem so googling?
Driving the car back, almost every gear change but not all I had speedo cluster needles dropping on gear changes, (rev counter uneffected) driving you could be perfectly steady and it would behave same as at idle; ok for a few seconds then battery light back on.
I have spent this morning taking off every earth cleaning up and refitting, none looked particularly corroded. I tried a new battery as well. I thought I'd fixed it on 1st turn of the key trying a new battery and having checked all the earths as car started perfectly and idled perfectly for about 45 seconds but then it started battery light flickering again. So plugged in a scan gauge when idling, no fault codes but you can clearly hear the alternator kicking in and then dropping off. I took a video of the scan gauge displaying voltage held in front of the battery light and you can see it fluctuating between 12.5V and 13.5v.
I phoned BMW mini North Oxford thinking I've had enough, time to fork out but they have a 3 week waiting list, they said if I get the car to them they may look at it before then but can't say for sure, I'm not too keen on a 3 week wait just for a diagnostic.
So does anyone know if the power steering pump could be the cause although no one at the garage thinks so? The internet seems to say its often the source of electrical problems?
Driving the car back, almost every gear change but not all I had speedo cluster needles dropping on gear changes, (rev counter uneffected) driving you could be perfectly steady and it would behave same as at idle; ok for a few seconds then battery light back on.
I have spent this morning taking off every earth cleaning up and refitting, none looked particularly corroded. I tried a new battery as well. I thought I'd fixed it on 1st turn of the key trying a new battery and having checked all the earths as car started perfectly and idled perfectly for about 45 seconds but then it started battery light flickering again. So plugged in a scan gauge when idling, no fault codes but you can clearly hear the alternator kicking in and then dropping off. I took a video of the scan gauge displaying voltage held in front of the battery light and you can see it fluctuating between 12.5V and 13.5v.
I phoned BMW mini North Oxford thinking I've had enough, time to fork out but they have a 3 week waiting list, they said if I get the car to them they may look at it before then but can't say for sure, I'm not too keen on a 3 week wait just for a diagnostic.
So does anyone know if the power steering pump could be the cause although no one at the garage thinks so? The internet seems to say its often the source of electrical problems?
Edited by Herman Toothrot on Wednesday 15th February 16:57
U have mentioned that they have already tried disconnecting it - if they did then this should rule it out . If they didn't, it's definitely worth trying to rule it out.
Next step maybe to try and remove the speedo and rev counter and disconnect them - these are the gateway modules and this should hopefully isolate the body networks
Next step maybe to try and remove the speedo and rev counter and disconnect them - these are the gateway modules and this should hopefully isolate the body networks
Well I have taken the car to a different BMW / Mini dealership with less of a waiting list for a £100 + vat diagnostic and they just called they claim they can't test as 'non geniue BMW battery', what a crock of s
t. Why do main dealers behave like this? Trying to tell me a genuine BMW battery makes all the difference to a one week old YUASA battery on a 2004 mini.
Edit
Managed to move on with the suggestion they place a genuine BMW battery in the car to carry out the diagnostics.
Shock horror it made bugger all difference to the fault, but 'have you had work done on the alternator?' WTF it was booked in written on the job card that it has had a new battery and alternator trying to fix the issue, apart from the fact it's done 21miles total on the shiney new alternator.
Only useful info so far is that the powersteering pump although working does have error codes stored and they say the alternator and powersteering pump communicate. Will wait and see if there's any advance on that information such as 'duff powersteering pump' or 'duff alternator voltage regulator'. If they can't tell me that with full dealer facilities I think I am justified in never stepping foot in a main dealers.
Edited to update :
Dealership is now confident it's the power steering pump, amazingly BMW have agreed to replace the power steering pump paying parts cost if I pay labour; that I was not expecting on a 12 year old car. It with the diagnostic charge will end up as expensive as a BBA remanufactured pump and my local garage fitting it but at least this way even if they are wrong and it isn't the pump I've had an expensive in parts terms job done by them and it rules the pump out if it still doesn't fix it.
t. Why do main dealers behave like this? Trying to tell me a genuine BMW battery makes all the difference to a one week old YUASA battery on a 2004 mini. Edit
Managed to move on with the suggestion they place a genuine BMW battery in the car to carry out the diagnostics.
Shock horror it made bugger all difference to the fault, but 'have you had work done on the alternator?' WTF it was booked in written on the job card that it has had a new battery and alternator trying to fix the issue, apart from the fact it's done 21miles total on the shiney new alternator.
Only useful info so far is that the powersteering pump although working does have error codes stored and they say the alternator and powersteering pump communicate. Will wait and see if there's any advance on that information such as 'duff powersteering pump' or 'duff alternator voltage regulator'. If they can't tell me that with full dealer facilities I think I am justified in never stepping foot in a main dealers.
Edited to update :
Dealership is now confident it's the power steering pump, amazingly BMW have agreed to replace the power steering pump paying parts cost if I pay labour; that I was not expecting on a 12 year old car. It with the diagnostic charge will end up as expensive as a BBA remanufactured pump and my local garage fitting it but at least this way even if they are wrong and it isn't the pump I've had an expensive in parts terms job done by them and it rules the pump out if it still doesn't fix it.
Edited by Herman Toothrot on Wednesday 15th February 16:55
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