My Esprit V8 project time to post a thread
Discussion
Took the door panels off to fix the central locking and found the material coming unstuck.
The foam degrades to dust and it all starts to fall apart.
I found an air line is good for blowing away all the dust and Evo-Stik timebond good at gluing it back down. It’s a little tacky and awkward to apply but works quickly and I also used it on the carpets. It allows you to move it around to get it into position unlike the contact version which was very awkward to place items together perfect first attempt.
The foam degrades to dust and it all starts to fall apart.
I found an air line is good for blowing away all the dust and Evo-Stik timebond good at gluing it back down. It’s a little tacky and awkward to apply but works quickly and I also used it on the carpets. It allows you to move it around to get it into position unlike the contact version which was very awkward to place items together perfect first attempt.
sorry the car is dirty inside not had chance to clean it yet, so excuse the dusty pics.
I am using the Dakota digital quad air pressure and tank gauge kit, this I brought from the USA, nice bit of kit it moniters the pressure of each air spring and compressor tank. I might move it up in the roof panel in place of the digital clock. This was bloody expensive with import duty and the rip off parcel force handling fee! The doomsday switch next to it is the compressor override off switch, or it might be the ejector seat trigger! So don’t mess around with my switches and buttons!
Here is my e-level control pad, again nice bit of kit also from the USA! You can buy them in the UK and is probably the most used system for air ride installs when you start going into high tech and want full control and ease of operation. I can set 3 ride heights into memory, and also control it from a remote key fob. The ECU monitors each ride height sensor and can adjust it automatically to keep your ride height consistent. Not cheap but I couldn’t live with the manual switches I had before. I could not get consistent ride height by just checking air pressure.
The rats nest has changed! Now running twin alloy tanks and of course the e-level system, lots of air lines and wires! Work still to do tidying this area and still have to finish the rad/fans, I plan to box it in and have a vent outlet via the bonnet. The arrow is to show the location of the other air tank this fitted a treat between the light pods and saved a lot of space.
Wow mammoth amount of updates these last few days! Nearly made up for the long time away. Hope to keep going and thanks guys for all the positive support.
I am using the Dakota digital quad air pressure and tank gauge kit, this I brought from the USA, nice bit of kit it moniters the pressure of each air spring and compressor tank. I might move it up in the roof panel in place of the digital clock. This was bloody expensive with import duty and the rip off parcel force handling fee! The doomsday switch next to it is the compressor override off switch, or it might be the ejector seat trigger! So don’t mess around with my switches and buttons!
Here is my e-level control pad, again nice bit of kit also from the USA! You can buy them in the UK and is probably the most used system for air ride installs when you start going into high tech and want full control and ease of operation. I can set 3 ride heights into memory, and also control it from a remote key fob. The ECU monitors each ride height sensor and can adjust it automatically to keep your ride height consistent. Not cheap but I couldn’t live with the manual switches I had before. I could not get consistent ride height by just checking air pressure.
The rats nest has changed! Now running twin alloy tanks and of course the e-level system, lots of air lines and wires! Work still to do tidying this area and still have to finish the rad/fans, I plan to box it in and have a vent outlet via the bonnet. The arrow is to show the location of the other air tank this fitted a treat between the light pods and saved a lot of space.
Wow mammoth amount of updates these last few days! Nearly made up for the long time away. Hope to keep going and thanks guys for all the positive support.
Edited by s1v8esprit on Thursday 18th June 21:59
well took it for a spin around the block twice as all was working fine! thought lets go around again glanced at the temp gauge and see its at meltdown! prayer mat must have been wrong today! bloody thing seems worse now? got it home let it cool down checked everything water flow, rad fans coming on etc and its all working but just wont keep it cool! I need to redo it again, header tank has a very small inlet so could be causing a bottle neck and slowing the flow too much? going to look into changing that and also fit a swirl pot (I have it anyway so might as well use it)
Edited by s1v8esprit on Saturday 20th June 12:56
While at work tonight I had an epiphany yes 2 of my brain cells worked together and I may have worked out the overheating issue!
I fitted a small booster pump on a T-piece some time ago and I realised now this may cause a problem and reverse flow the water around the engine against the other water pump, the main water pump is at the front near the rad and the booster pump is at the engine end so it just circulating the water in the engine and not to the rad! I got on it when I came home and have ripped out all the hoses around the engine and going to do a fresh install tomorrow and simplify all the connections and routes and look into mounting the pumps the same end. The booster pump is going on the heater matrix circuit as that is what I originally brought it for but ended up using it as a booster for the main pump due to air locks. Yes I was a total plank! and feel foolish for making a stupid mistake but at least I hope to have sorted it now.
I fitted a small booster pump on a T-piece some time ago and I realised now this may cause a problem and reverse flow the water around the engine against the other water pump, the main water pump is at the front near the rad and the booster pump is at the engine end so it just circulating the water in the engine and not to the rad! I got on it when I came home and have ripped out all the hoses around the engine and going to do a fresh install tomorrow and simplify all the connections and routes and look into mounting the pumps the same end. The booster pump is going on the heater matrix circuit as that is what I originally brought it for but ended up using it as a booster for the main pump due to air locks. Yes I was a total plank! and feel foolish for making a stupid mistake but at least I hope to have sorted it now.
GTRene said:
is the water-pump working well enough?
and or do the fans kick in?
does the heater work?
water pump does struggle to prime when refilling the system hence why a fitted the booster bumpand or do the fans kick in?
does the heater work?
Fans work well, but I dont think much water flow was getting around the rad due to the booster just circulating the engine water?
didnt check but it was set to hot to enable flow around the matrix
OP for peace of mind and convenience I can highly recommend a vacuum tool for filling your cooling system.
They are below £40 on EBay now and worth ten times that for ensuring there are no airlocks in the coolant, you can fill and purge the most awkward systems quickly, first time every time.
You do need a compressed air supply but I am assuming that won't be an issue here.
They are below £40 on EBay now and worth ten times that for ensuring there are no airlocks in the coolant, you can fill and purge the most awkward systems quickly, first time every time.
You do need a compressed air supply but I am assuming that won't be an issue here.
kev b said:
OP for peace of mind and convenience I can highly recommend a vacuum tool for filling your cooling system.
They are below £40 on EBay now and worth ten times that for ensuring there are no airlocks in the coolant, you can fill and purge the most awkward systems quickly, first time every time.
You do need a compressed air supply but I am assuming that won't be an issue here.
thanks will look into itThey are below £40 on EBay now and worth ten times that for ensuring there are no airlocks in the coolant, you can fill and purge the most awkward systems quickly, first time every time.
You do need a compressed air supply but I am assuming that won't be an issue here.
After all my Paranoia and wows with engine bay temps, turns out the sender in the inlet manifold is faulty! Bloody intermotor crap! My Davies Craig controller for the EWP was at 90% and my dash gauge was at 120%!! I Have fitted a manual switch to the rad fans, also given the Davies Craig controller full control of the fans and done away with the old stock otter switch.
Have on order a new sender, will test it with the stock smiths gauge, Racetech, and also have a digital probe coming to check temps as well!
Totally redone all the water hoses, much more efficiently now, done away with the heater matrix as I think this is blocked? water flow was very slow in that area so bypassed it. Fitted the booster bump off the rear of the inlet manifold, also fitted a mechanical Racetech water temperature gauge in the engine bay this is the capillary type so are supposed to be very accurate? I chose to mount it direct to the alloy head as to get an idea of engine temp. I can also view this from the drivers seat very handy and very cool.(well it had better be!!)
Plan to wrap the sender line with heat shield wrap as to not affect the reading with exhaust temp, also have to repaint the inlet manifold again! I did it with VHT crinkle affect paint it did look good when done but may be I didn’t put a thick enough coat on? Can any one recommend a good paint for engines?
Have on order a new sender, will test it with the stock smiths gauge, Racetech, and also have a digital probe coming to check temps as well!
Totally redone all the water hoses, much more efficiently now, done away with the heater matrix as I think this is blocked? water flow was very slow in that area so bypassed it. Fitted the booster bump off the rear of the inlet manifold, also fitted a mechanical Racetech water temperature gauge in the engine bay this is the capillary type so are supposed to be very accurate? I chose to mount it direct to the alloy head as to get an idea of engine temp. I can also view this from the drivers seat very handy and very cool.(well it had better be!!)
Plan to wrap the sender line with heat shield wrap as to not affect the reading with exhaust temp, also have to repaint the inlet manifold again! I did it with VHT crinkle affect paint it did look good when done but may be I didn’t put a thick enough coat on? Can any one recommend a good paint for engines?
kev b said:
Intermotor! - once a decent brand, their stuff is so unreliable nowadays that my brother will not use the brand on customers cars any more because so many parts were faulty, preferring to use genuine OEM components despite them being harder to obtain and much more costly.
Yes me too never buying that crap again!
Thanks again, yes I do like it also but it does not last? may get them powder coated.
A few more pictures
Rear end showing locking catches on hatch, I can adjust these to have it open more or shut
Not the best location to take pictures but at least its not on my drive
Just love it low…….
A few more pictures
Rear end showing locking catches on hatch, I can adjust these to have it open more or shut
Not the best location to take pictures but at least its not on my drive
Just love it low…….
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