What bike repairs/maintenance have you done today?
Discussion
To me, since our unplanned PH get together in a rather unsafe field watching XH558, you're a Veteran 
Do you know what teeth you need?
This is the one off my Deore crank AK type, http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/shimano-deore-f... Sadly seems out of stock though, but gives you the 3 options to compare against your current.
You could always go 1x and save the hassle
Do you know what teeth you need?
This is the one off my Deore crank AK type, http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/shimano-deore-f... Sadly seems out of stock though, but gives you the 3 options to compare against your current.
You could always go 1x and save the hassle
Celtic Dragon said:
To me, since our unplanned PH get together in a rather unsafe field watching XH558, you're a Veteran
Do you know what teeth you need?
This is the one off my Deore crank AK type, http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/shimano-deore-f... Sadly seems out of stock though, but gives you the 3 options to compare against your current.
You could always go 1x and save the hassle
Thanks! Do you know what teeth you need?
This is the one off my Deore crank AK type, http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/shimano-deore-f... Sadly seems out of stock though, but gives you the 3 options to compare against your current.
You could always go 1x and save the hassle
38-24t (Although I could go up to a 40t on the big ring if it would work with the 24t inner. I REALLY need that 24 x 36 low gear though!!!
)Ironically that link is exactly what I was looking at the other day when I first searched for suitable rings. It was out of stock then too. According to the markings on the non-drive crank arm, mine's an "AM" type.
I'm not ready for 1x quite yet. For a start, the cassettes are more expensive because of those oversize sprockets needed to keep the gear spread, and for another thing, I bought a couple of 11-36t ten speed cassettes. I'm not going 1x until those are used up. If I EVER go 1x. I'm an old stick-in-the-mud when it comes to changing stuff, you see. I'm too attached to my 2x gearing at the moment. Maybe I should blag a test ride on a 1x set-up (Bird Zero, maybe???) and see if I like it first...
Removed 11-28 cassette and chain after <900km riding, replaced with new 11-32 cassette and chain, also invested in a rear mech hanger alignment tool.
That was good fun splitting the difference on the error and tweaking the alignment, took a while to figure out how to use it. Obviously watching a mechanic in workshop take less than 10mis from the bike going into and out of the workshop made me think it was simple!
Gears and Di2 shifting beautifully.
Off to Tenerife on Thursday.
That was good fun splitting the difference on the error and tweaking the alignment, took a while to figure out how to use it. Obviously watching a mechanic in workshop take less than 10mis from the bike going into and out of the workshop made me think it was simple!
Gears and Di2 shifting beautifully.
Off to Tenerife on Thursday.
Celtic Dragon said:
You can still have a 24t granny ring on a 1x setup, you just need the secret! I've got a 26t secret 
Just had a quick scan and most places seem to be out of stock, there's a few on eBay at 23 quid a ring.
I've got a line on a 38t outer ring at a shop, trouble is it's 30 miles away. Got a suitable sized inner ring on the Evans Cycles website, but not entirely sure of compatibility. I might just take the Shimano part numbers down to my local shop and get 'em to order the two rings and swallow the inevitable extra cost...Just had a quick scan and most places seem to be out of stock, there's a few on eBay at 23 quid a ring.
Today (and a few hours yesterday) I gave my Fox Float X CTD a "quick" air can service.
It's a easy job... if you can get the air can off - I don't know if I was unlucky or it was assembled without grease on the threads but the sucker would not come undone!
I watched 3 different YouTube videos and they all so a chap grab hold of it and little out a little grunt and undo it... nope hours of trying to turn it, crying, swearing, begging no chance I though - I know, I'll get a strap wrench, that'll show it! Bought a pack of two which was lucky, destroyed the small one trying to undo it - finally the big one moved it a coupe of mm and the rest was easy.
The actual service is a peice of cake, I changed all the seals as I had them anyway but the old ones looked fine, cleaned and relubed and she's like new.
It's a easy job... if you can get the air can off - I don't know if I was unlucky or it was assembled without grease on the threads but the sucker would not come undone!
I watched 3 different YouTube videos and they all so a chap grab hold of it and little out a little grunt and undo it... nope hours of trying to turn it, crying, swearing, begging no chance I though - I know, I'll get a strap wrench, that'll show it! Bought a pack of two which was lucky, destroyed the small one trying to undo it - finally the big one moved it a coupe of mm and the rest was easy.
The actual service is a peice of cake, I changed all the seals as I had them anyway but the old ones looked fine, cleaned and relubed and she's like new.
I decided to give my Spectral a bit of love ahead of our snowdon trip next week;
Semi strip and clean
New chain - SRAM X1
New cassette - SRAM XG (downgrade from the original x1 but half the price!)
Chainring swapped from 32t to 30t to hopefully help me on the ups.
New brake pads - uberbike finned race pads
New Rotors - SRAM
New Pedals - DMR V12
Scratches touched up.
New tyre sealant.
Torqued bolts.
Shock pressures reset.
General check over of anything else I could think of...
Just hope it all holds together!
Road bike got some new rubber too - Continental GP 4000s 25mm..
Not test ridden either yet.
Semi strip and clean
New chain - SRAM X1
New cassette - SRAM XG (downgrade from the original x1 but half the price!)
Chainring swapped from 32t to 30t to hopefully help me on the ups.
New brake pads - uberbike finned race pads
New Rotors - SRAM
New Pedals - DMR V12
Scratches touched up.
New tyre sealant.
Torqued bolts.
Shock pressures reset.
General check over of anything else I could think of...
Just hope it all holds together!
Road bike got some new rubber too - Continental GP 4000s 25mm..
Not test ridden either yet.
Dusted one of my MTB's off for a spin yesterday - chain kept jumping mid cassette under power despite being perfectly indexed, initially thought the hanger may be bent but on further investigation the free-hub bearings were shagged along with the wheel bearings, chain was about 120% and cassette was a bit on the worn side, que an hour on tinternet buying a new freehub (aside from the bearings the outside casing was deformed!), new wheel bearings, new cassette, new chain and new cable (seemed daft to fix everything else and find the cable was stretched....)
BTW - never buy Sun-Ringer Charger Expert wheels, the bearings and free-hub are made of cheese.......
BTW - never buy Sun-Ringer Charger Expert wheels, the bearings and free-hub are made of cheese.......
Edited by MadDad on Sunday 14th May 23:14
Update on those chainrings (from 12th May!)...
Well, it took me two weeks to order the damned things. Then nearly a week for the order(s) to come through. And a couple of days either procrastinating or being busy with other stuff, just for good measure.
So today I finally got a "round tuit"...
Crank set off, all cleaned up and degreased, chainrings replaced, axle etc regreased and refitted. Annoying tendency for the front mech to ship the chain when shifting up sorted, Oh, and the rear derailleur tension and guide pulley wheels replaced while the tools were out and the bike was in the stand. Then to finish off, removal of a gorse thorn tip from the front tyre and patch #8 applied to the innertube.
It's all back together now, sat in the garage awaiting a test ride (fingers crossed for tomorrow) and I've got a plaster on my hand where a tooth on the old 38t chainring bit me when I was pulling it from the bottom bracket. First it wouldn't come out, then it decided to come out all at once.
I fear I may have overtightened the pre-load cap on the non-drive side crank arm though. It spins OK when I'm turning it, without a feeling of resistance, but when i let it go it doesn't spin for more than a couple of revolutions. Should I crack the crank-arm securing bolts and back the tension off a little? The Shimano TechDocs guide isn't too clear on how tight it should "feel" and the listed torque value (0.7 to 1.5 Nm) is outside the capacity of my torque wrench to measure it accurately...
Well, it took me two weeks to order the damned things. Then nearly a week for the order(s) to come through. And a couple of days either procrastinating or being busy with other stuff, just for good measure.
So today I finally got a "round tuit"...
Crank set off, all cleaned up and degreased, chainrings replaced, axle etc regreased and refitted. Annoying tendency for the front mech to ship the chain when shifting up sorted, Oh, and the rear derailleur tension and guide pulley wheels replaced while the tools were out and the bike was in the stand. Then to finish off, removal of a gorse thorn tip from the front tyre and patch #8 applied to the innertube.
It's all back together now, sat in the garage awaiting a test ride (fingers crossed for tomorrow) and I've got a plaster on my hand where a tooth on the old 38t chainring bit me when I was pulling it from the bottom bracket. First it wouldn't come out, then it decided to come out all at once.
I fear I may have overtightened the pre-load cap on the non-drive side crank arm though. It spins OK when I'm turning it, without a feeling of resistance, but when i let it go it doesn't spin for more than a couple of revolutions. Should I crack the crank-arm securing bolts and back the tension off a little? The Shimano TechDocs guide isn't too clear on how tight it should "feel" and the listed torque value (0.7 to 1.5 Nm) is outside the capacity of my torque wrench to measure it accurately...
yellowjack said:
I fear I may have overtightened the pre-load cap on the non-drive side crank arm though. It spins OK when I'm turning it, without a feeling of resistance, but when i let it go it doesn't spin for more than a couple of revolutions. Should I crack the crank-arm securing bolts and back the tension off a little? The Shimano TechDocs guide isn't too clear on how tight it should "feel" and the listed torque value (0.7 to 1.5 Nm) is outside the capacity of my torque wrench to measure it accurately...
Have you fitted a new BB? If not it sounds about right as using the old one they are always a little slacker...When new there should be a little resistance when you spin the crank (with nothing attached)
Old school cup and cone BBs which should spin forever
Finger tight then back off quarter a turn
47p2 said:
Have you fitted a new BB? If not it sounds about right as using the old one they are always a little slacker...
When new there should be a little resistance when you spin the crank (with nothing attached)
Old school cup and cone BBs which should spin forever
Finger tight then back off quarter a turn
It's the 'old' BB - Shimano press fit BB 73-41 I think (should have written the part number down while the cranks were off really!).When new there should be a little resistance when you spin the crank (with nothing attached)
Old school cup and cone BBs which should spin forever
Finger tight then back off quarter a turn
I rode it for 20 miles on "proper" MTB trails today and it was OK. Even managed a shared KOM and some trophies. I may still crack the bolts and back off the pre-load cap, just to be on the safe side though.
I 'listened' to the BB (no chain attached) spinning through the frame, and there was no tell-tale grittiness or resistance as far as I could tell. There was a very small amount of water inside the BB shell when I dismantled the crankset, so I've greased the inside of the bearing cups and the ends of the axle with Teflon grease to discourage water ingress. Now that I've got a suitable torque wrench I'll be happier to disassemble the cranks to inspect things in future. This was the first time I'd done any work on cranksets 'solo'. Next step will be a BB bearing press/headset press and I think I'll have the tools for every job on the bikes I own...
Having finally measured the chain stretch on my old chain, and discovered it was well past its best, I ordered a new chain ring, sprocket and chain for my fixie.
After a delay because postie couldn't be bothered to post through the sorry i missed you card I finally got the bits today.
A quick swap on my bike
and the old chain ring definitely past its best:
Test ride on the way into work tomorrow, hoping this will stop the clicking it had developed under power.
After a delay because postie couldn't be bothered to post through the sorry i missed you card I finally got the bits today.
A quick swap on my bike
and the old chain ring definitely past its best:
Test ride on the way into work tomorrow, hoping this will stop the clicking it had developed under power.
Max5476 said:
Test ride on the way into work tomorrow, hoping this will stop the clicking it had developed under power.
Nope, clicking is still there, which means crank, bb, pedals, or somewhere completely different...It definitely only occurs when under high load, and in relation to the crank rotation, so not a chain or wheel issue.
pembo said:
Try cleaning out and re-greasing the bottom bracket, or fitting a new one.
Every time I get a ticking from that area it's because the bottom bracket needs servicing.
It probably is that, it feels really smooth without a chain attached though. I swapped pedals last night, as I had a spare pair in the garage. I'll order a crank puller and bb tool tonight if its still clicking.Every time I get a ticking from that area it's because the bottom bracket needs servicing.
Max5476 said:
pembo said:
Try cleaning out and re-greasing the bottom bracket, or fitting a new one.
Every time I get a ticking from that area it's because the bottom bracket needs servicing.
It probably is that, it feels really smooth without a chain attached though. I swapped pedals last night, as I had a spare pair in the garage. I'll order a crank puller and bb tool tonight if its still clicking.Every time I get a ticking from that area it's because the bottom bracket needs servicing.
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