What bike repairs/maintenance have you done today?
Discussion
IroningMan said:
Friday, rather than today, but cleaned, polished and sealed - thankyou, Crankalicious - stripped-off Raceblades and the frame tape that was under the mounts for them, transferred tyres to 60mm carbon clinchers with removable-core Schwalbe innertubes and new valve extenders - which are too long so will be replaced with shorter ones - removed lights and added new Lezyne toolbag: now back in summer plumage:
Looks good with the carbon wheels. What wheels are they?? 
Stripped everything from my winter bike a Giant Defy Advanced Pro 2 and took the frame for a ding repair to my LBS.
Later will be cleaning and servicing removed mechanical parts ready to sell as once frame is repaired will go full Ultegra Di2 and hydraulic disc. Full set of 105 5800 going on eBay any day soon.
Later will be cleaning and servicing removed mechanical parts ready to sell as once frame is repaired will go full Ultegra Di2 and hydraulic disc. Full set of 105 5800 going on eBay any day soon.
Replacing the freebody on my SuperStar MTB hub.
I have a strange relationship with Superstar and their hubs...
I've been using one version of their wheels or other for years now, couldn't put a date to it but more than 5 years, less than 10. This is my 3rd set, first were stolen on my bike, second sold when I 'went 650b' - these are 13 months old.
Anyway, this will be my 4th freebody I think, maybe 5th across the 3 wheels - I've cracked them all, same place to varying degrees of destruction, I'd complain but they're such good VFM to buy and so good to deal with in after sales I just smile and stick on the warranty replacement.
I have a strange relationship with Superstar and their hubs...
I've been using one version of their wheels or other for years now, couldn't put a date to it but more than 5 years, less than 10. This is my 3rd set, first were stolen on my bike, second sold when I 'went 650b' - these are 13 months old.
Anyway, this will be my 4th freebody I think, maybe 5th across the 3 wheels - I've cracked them all, same place to varying degrees of destruction, I'd complain but they're such good VFM to buy and so good to deal with in after sales I just smile and stick on the warranty replacement.
My wife is away this weekend with some friends so I took the opportunity to service my forks.
I've completed a 'lower service' more than a few times, but it's the first time I've opened the spring and damper. A bit fiddly at times and in hindsight I'd have rather not measured out 180ml of oil with a 10ml syringe but it's easy enough, with RS stuff anyway - they produce nice easy to follow instructions with pictures etc. I won't be paying to have them done again, 1.5 hours and done.
I semi-successfully bled the brakes on my bike, the tears are better than they were, but the fronts are worse. Will have another go.
It felt like I spent more time adjusting the QR on the rear wheel after refitting it, than I did on the brakes. Why do wheels always seem to go back on out of alignment?
It felt like I spent more time adjusting the QR on the rear wheel after refitting it, than I did on the brakes. Why do wheels always seem to go back on out of alignment?
Kept the pace up this evening - Passportes is just around the corner!
Striped and cleaned my Shimano derailleur clutch mechanism. I had no idea a) it was possible, Shimano tend to politely ask you to buy another one if something goes wrong b) as a friction part it should be greased.
Anyway, took under ten mins, doesn't require removal of the derailleur, you just took the clutch off and pull it out. She's like new - I was just going to order one.
If you've got a Shimano clutch mech, give it some love - easiest thing in the world and makes a real difference.
Striped and cleaned my Shimano derailleur clutch mechanism. I had no idea a) it was possible, Shimano tend to politely ask you to buy another one if something goes wrong b) as a friction part it should be greased.
Anyway, took under ten mins, doesn't require removal of the derailleur, you just took the clutch off and pull it out. She's like new - I was just going to order one.
If you've got a Shimano clutch mech, give it some love - easiest thing in the world and makes a real difference.
Celtic Dragon said:
Neither did I until I googled shimano clicking mech, turns out they don't like oval chain rings! Still, as you say, it's a sub 10 min job.
No apparently not, can't say I can argue with it - I ran a 10sp SLX for 18 months before it started to complain - I didn't know they we're serviceable so I gutted it (I think it failed as it fell out in bits) 6 months with an oval and my M8000 XT seized. Was lucky enough to be passing home today at midday so took the chance to pop in for a sandwich and a bit of spanering.
Fitted a new M7000 chainset to replace the M670 I knackered. It's a nice bit of kit, bolts go in the back so it look nice as neat, but you can still get to them without removing the crank. Noticeanbly lighter than the old one, hopefully just as strong.
Just needs a new rear tyre, gear cable, headset bearing and quick shock air-can service and she'll be ready for the Alps.
Fitted a new M7000 chainset to replace the M670 I knackered. It's a nice bit of kit, bolts go in the back so it look nice as neat, but you can still get to them without removing the crank. Noticeanbly lighter than the old one, hopefully just as strong.
Just needs a new rear tyre, gear cable, headset bearing and quick shock air-can service and she'll be ready for the Alps.
Mad week on the spanners for me, winter riding in all weathers has taken its toil on the old Giant TranceX
• Remove all suspension bearings and replace with nice new Enduro ones
• Fit a new front Fork, The Fox has finally worn its stantions despite me servicing it every couple of months. I picked up a second hand but unused Rockshox Sektor from eBay that hopefully will last a year or two. (A bit of extra travel too, see below*)
• New DU Bush on the Rear Shock - an Achilles heel on the Trance, this seems to be the main wear point on the Meastro suspension
• Fit 0° Stem to counteract the increase in fork size*
• New Brake Rotors, old ones down to 1.1mm at the edges, still worked ok though but I don't need much of an excuse to buy shiny new stuff
• New Rear tyre, the old one has wet patches all over it from the leaking sealant after each ride. I like the performance of the Nobby Nic but they do seem to be prone to rock damage.
And a quick fiddle with the Mech alignment / indexing
Maybe I should just buy a new bike!!
• Remove all suspension bearings and replace with nice new Enduro ones
• Fit a new front Fork, The Fox has finally worn its stantions despite me servicing it every couple of months. I picked up a second hand but unused Rockshox Sektor from eBay that hopefully will last a year or two. (A bit of extra travel too, see below*)
• New DU Bush on the Rear Shock - an Achilles heel on the Trance, this seems to be the main wear point on the Meastro suspension
• Fit 0° Stem to counteract the increase in fork size*
• New Brake Rotors, old ones down to 1.1mm at the edges, still worked ok though but I don't need much of an excuse to buy shiny new stuff
• New Rear tyre, the old one has wet patches all over it from the leaking sealant after each ride. I like the performance of the Nobby Nic but they do seem to be prone to rock damage.
And a quick fiddle with the Mech alignment / indexing
Maybe I should just buy a new bike!!
lol, I keep thinking that every time I do anything with a bike....but you have a perfectly good bike after your service work so be happy and go ride it 
Today i did the following:
All i need now is some legs that feel like I was 20 years old so I can go ride them. Servicing the bikes seems almost as hard as riding them
Today i did the following:
- Changed a tubeless tyre that was constantly loosing pressure and it had a 15mm gash in it. Was tempted to patch internally before just throwing away the tyre but just put on a new one rather then worry about it.
- I Serviced no less that 3 pairs of fox forks. My floor is now covered in fox green oil but I now have 3 bikes with lovely juicy slidey front suspension. It has been more than 12 months since they were serviced so they were due.
- I degreased, cleaned and regreased 3 chains that were filthy. Underneath all the crap was perfectly good chains with no significant wear though (i measured) so no problems.
- I built up a new wheel - rim, spokes hub and nipples them balanced it and made sure it was true. Really boring work but at least the new wheel is really perfect....for now at least.
All i need now is some legs that feel like I was 20 years old so I can go ride them.
Servicing the bikes seems almost as hard as riding them Ho-hum.
Chain "slipping" when putting power down in higher gears. First thought? Chainrings.
Now park that thought.
Yesterday, self doubt about my 'diagnosis'* led me to strip the rear wheel out, and replace the freehub body, clean, inspect, regrease and rebuild the cone bearings, fit the new chain and cassette that have been sat in the "racing" spares box, and test ride the bike to enjoy the newly silent, slick-changing, sweetly shiny drive train.
Remember I asked you to "park that thought". Yup, you guessed it, it was the chainrings all along. Particularly noticeable on the large chainring and now, due to the not-yet-stretched new chain, the problem is actually worse, to the point where it is, for all intents and purposes, unrideable...
So now I've got to spend an hour or two trying to decipher the myriad different ways the online retailers describe chainrings and their compatibility. There seems to be nothing available anywhere as a simple, like-for-like replacement DEORE chainring. Grrrr!
Explanatory note: *The reason I doubted my chainring diagnosis was that last time I replaced the freehub body I put a "grumbly" one back on. The shop I bought it from had swapped to a new one when it went in for a new bottom bracket, but there was "life in the old unit, sir" so they gave it back to me as a spare. So, having had one lose ALL drive in the past, I thought it might be a pawl engagement issue causing things to slip under power. And whilst it was certainly far from smooth sounding, or feeling when I removed it, it certainly wasn't the root cause of the slipping issue.
Chain "slipping" when putting power down in higher gears. First thought? Chainrings.
Now park that thought.
Yesterday, self doubt about my 'diagnosis'* led me to strip the rear wheel out, and replace the freehub body, clean, inspect, regrease and rebuild the cone bearings, fit the new chain and cassette that have been sat in the "racing" spares box, and test ride the bike to enjoy the newly silent, slick-changing, sweetly shiny drive train.
Remember I asked you to "park that thought". Yup, you guessed it, it was the chainrings all along. Particularly noticeable on the large chainring and now, due to the not-yet-stretched new chain, the problem is actually worse, to the point where it is, for all intents and purposes, unrideable...
So now I've got to spend an hour or two trying to decipher the myriad different ways the online retailers describe chainrings and their compatibility. There seems to be nothing available anywhere as a simple, like-for-like replacement DEORE chainring. Grrrr!
Explanatory note: *The reason I doubted my chainring diagnosis was that last time I replaced the freehub body I put a "grumbly" one back on. The shop I bought it from had swapped to a new one when it went in for a new bottom bracket, but there was "life in the old unit, sir" so they gave it back to me as a spare. So, having had one lose ALL drive in the past, I thought it might be a pawl engagement issue causing things to slip under power. And whilst it was certainly far from smooth sounding, or feeling when I removed it, it certainly wasn't the root cause of the slipping issue.
Celtic Dragon said:
YJ, do you have a front 2x or 3x setup?
A 2x shimano is usually 104 / 64 bcd outer and inner.
2x10, mostly Deore. Knowing the number of teeth and the BCDs of the rings I need is only half the battle. Working out what BCD and 2x or 3x from vendors descriptions is the other half. I'd be happy with a straight swap, but I'm also struggling to navigate the Shimano Tech Docs site looking for exploded views and compatibility. It just keeps telling me I haven't "checked a box" when there appears to be no check box on the page???A 2x shimano is usually 104 / 64 bcd outer and inner.
I'll get there in the end. Trouble is, a lot of retailers stock higher-end rings. This starts to make it look like good value to simply purchase a whole new Deore crankset. I really don't need an upgrade, nor do I want to be spending daft money on chainrings. I've got a 'big' service on the car and the MOT and tax due at the end of the month on top of bike bits. I'm a poor pensioner, don'tcha know...
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