Full carbon road bike for 400 quid. What could go wrong?
Discussion
Unfortunately the science doesn't back up that that perception. But hey ho, keep believing, Will!
An 85kg rider will go up a 5km/10% incline approx. 8 seconds quicker with a top of the line, 1500g wheelset than that same rider on a 2000g training/budget wheelset.
8 whole seconds over 5km.......
One thing holds true.
More expensive wheels make your wallet lighter.
An 85kg rider will go up a 5km/10% incline approx. 8 seconds quicker with a top of the line, 1500g wheelset than that same rider on a 2000g training/budget wheelset.
8 whole seconds over 5km.......
One thing holds true.
More expensive wheels make your wallet lighter.
Edited by Barchettaman on Wednesday 17th June 21:52
Interesting.
What stiffness did you feel improved? Torsional, radial or lateral?
You have to view the whole wheel and bike as a system.
Here are some of the factors that affect what you might be ´feeling´:
-Axle diameter and thickness
-Spoke count
-Number of spoke crossings
-Spoke thickness
-Spoke material
-Spoke type (j-bend or straight pull)
-Rim depth
-Rim width
-Rim material
-Fork leg stiffness and steerer tube diameter
-Chainstay and seatstay design
-Dropout alignment
And that´s before we even start thinking about tyre type and tyre pressure!
As you can see, there is more than meets the eye. Calling a more expensive wheel “stiff” or a less expensive wheel “not stiff enough” is inaccurate.
One more thing to think about. When Poertner was at Zipp, he tested various wheels on an Instron machine.The machine works by driving a crossbar up or down at a very controlled rate, in the center of the cross-bar is a load cell and a gripper, or a pusher (anvil) which either stretch or crush the object being tested. An Instron can be used to test the strength and stiffness of most anything provided you have clever engineers to build the fixturing.
Zipp was trying to get riders on to carbon wheel for Paris-Roubaix, and was surprised to find that the 32 spoke aluminum wheels they traditionally rode at Roubaix were actually radially *stiffer* than most of the deeper carbon wheels. The data that pointed to the fact that the conventional wisdom of an entire generation of cyclists, mechanics and even industry engineers was just generally plain wrong.
Perception and received wisdom are dangerous things.
What stiffness did you feel improved? Torsional, radial or lateral?
You have to view the whole wheel and bike as a system.
Here are some of the factors that affect what you might be ´feeling´:
-Axle diameter and thickness
-Spoke count
-Number of spoke crossings
-Spoke thickness
-Spoke material
-Spoke type (j-bend or straight pull)
-Rim depth
-Rim width
-Rim material
-Fork leg stiffness and steerer tube diameter
-Chainstay and seatstay design
-Dropout alignment
And that´s before we even start thinking about tyre type and tyre pressure!
As you can see, there is more than meets the eye. Calling a more expensive wheel “stiff” or a less expensive wheel “not stiff enough” is inaccurate.
One more thing to think about. When Poertner was at Zipp, he tested various wheels on an Instron machine.The machine works by driving a crossbar up or down at a very controlled rate, in the center of the cross-bar is a load cell and a gripper, or a pusher (anvil) which either stretch or crush the object being tested. An Instron can be used to test the strength and stiffness of most anything provided you have clever engineers to build the fixturing.
Zipp was trying to get riders on to carbon wheel for Paris-Roubaix, and was surprised to find that the 32 spoke aluminum wheels they traditionally rode at Roubaix were actually radially *stiffer* than most of the deeper carbon wheels. The data that pointed to the fact that the conventional wisdom of an entire generation of cyclists, mechanics and even industry engineers was just generally plain wrong.
Perception and received wisdom are dangerous things.
Some Gump said:
You can buy worse than £7 tyres that are a bugger to get on and off, and offer the puncture resistance of a fairground baloon? I hope to never meet those tyres!
Absolutely not been my experience with Vittoria Zaffiro tyres, and I have run them in 23,28 and 32mm varieties on a number of rims over the last 5 years. I'm not doubting your post, just giving my experience!Gump, my TT bike 'feels' slower on fast race tyres and with latex tubes, than with training rubber (Zaffiros, coincidently!)
I think it's something to do with the extra give in the supple tyre. The bike goes though, even with my fat arse powering it.
Be careful with perceptions, they can be misleading.
I think it's something to do with the extra give in the supple tyre. The bike goes though, even with my fat arse powering it.
Be careful with perceptions, they can be misleading.
aspick said:
I have one of these (have had it now for about a year and have done over 1500 miles on it with no real issues at all) but I am now thinking of upgrading the entire groupset to 105 (around £300) and wondering if anyone else has done this ie. the complete groupset?
There are quite a few options around the groupset, some of which I'm not fully understanding ie. OK with the front and rear chainring options but not sure about the length and whether the bottom bracket etc. will be a problem?
Well, you only have chainrings on the front, not sure what you mean about the rear chainring.There are quite a few options around the groupset, some of which I'm not fully understanding ie. OK with the front and rear chainring options but not sure about the length and whether the bottom bracket etc. will be a problem?
Length? Of what? Cranks? 170mm should be OK.
You want a ´standard´ BSA threaded bottom bracket (english threaded)
Removing the standard square taper BB and replacing it with the Shimano 105 external BB is easy if you have the right tools.
You might want to invest in a reuseable 11-speed quick link for the chain.
Depending on your wrenching experience you might consider swapping the gruppo over a job for the LBS. Oh, and you´ll need a new rear wheel.
Alternatively just keep with the perfectly serviceable 9-speed setup that the bike came with!
SHutchinson said:
I took mine out last night and did a bit of a hill route on it. On the way back I started to get a creak from the crank area, felt like a bearing failure or something. Didn't stop to investigate as it wasn't a catastrophic failure and I wanted to get home.
So, what's the likely issue? Also, if I wanted to throw a new bottom bracket and crank etc. on it what should I buy? Anyone got any links to stuff that will be a guaranteed fit.
Or, (as I live in central Newcastle and am lucky to have a few LBS nearby) should I drop it into a shop and get it looked at before spending cash on stuff I might not need?
Could be:So, what's the likely issue? Also, if I wanted to throw a new bottom bracket and crank etc. on it what should I buy? Anyone got any links to stuff that will be a guaranteed fit.
Or, (as I live in central Newcastle and am lucky to have a few LBS nearby) should I drop it into a shop and get it looked at before spending cash on stuff I might not need?
-pedal bearing, if it's a cheap plastic pair you're using
-crank arm loose on the BB spindle, if so tighten ASAP
-BB not tightened in frame, or needs removing and the threads greasing
-BB shot, bearings gone & creaking
LordHaveMurci said:
What chain lube are you guys using? Kid in Halfords said they always use GT85 rather than more expensive seasonal Muc Off stuff, seems like half a job to me?
GT85 works better as a chain cleaner or a temporary lubricant, as it evaporates. You're better off using a dedicated chain lube, IMVHOGassing Station | Pedal Powered | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff