Full carbon road bike for 400 quid. What could go wrong?
Discussion
aspick said:
I have one of these (have had it now for about a year and have done over 1500 miles on it with no real issues at all) but I am now thinking of upgrading the entire groupset to 105 (around £300) and wondering if anyone else has done this ie. the complete groupset?
There are quite a few options around the groupset, some of which I'm not fully understanding ie. OK with the front and rear chainring options but not sure about the length and whether the bottom bracket etc. will be a problem?
I upgraded to a full 105 group set and had no problems fitting it myself, although you will need a set of cycle tools to deal with the BB. I used a Shimano Hollowtech II BB and it went in with no problems, (you won't need to face off the shells).There are quite a few options around the groupset, some of which I'm not fully understanding ie. OK with the front and rear chainring options but not sure about the length and whether the bottom bracket etc. will be a problem?
I have noticed that people are starting to rethink crank lengths and there have been a few noises made about the benefits of a shorter crank length, so it's probably more a personal thing.
Thanks for all the advice.
I was going to go for the full 105 5800 groupset from Wiggle in black (£299) and would have chosen the 50/34 front and 11/32 rear with a 175mm cranklength as this is what the cheaper Ice crank is on the bike right now.
I'm no bike mechanic so not sure about how all these components fit - I would have had a go at the brake calipers and a few other things myself but may have left the chainring/BB/front and rear derailleur/chain for my local bike shop to fit for me.
I understand the front dr that comes with this groupset package is braze on so will need a separate adapter for that (another £8 or so)
Not sure if the package comes complete with new cables.
However, if I'm also needing a new wheel because the current one will not take an 11 speed 5800 cassette then I may have to rethink and possibly just replace some parts in stages.
Looking at Shimano RS010 or RS11 rear wheel to keep costs down. Can't afford full new bike option yet (next year hopefully) but looking at keep the Ventura CP50 going for as long as possible with some good upgrades.
I was going to go for the full 105 5800 groupset from Wiggle in black (£299) and would have chosen the 50/34 front and 11/32 rear with a 175mm cranklength as this is what the cheaper Ice crank is on the bike right now.
I'm no bike mechanic so not sure about how all these components fit - I would have had a go at the brake calipers and a few other things myself but may have left the chainring/BB/front and rear derailleur/chain for my local bike shop to fit for me.
I understand the front dr that comes with this groupset package is braze on so will need a separate adapter for that (another £8 or so)
Not sure if the package comes complete with new cables.
However, if I'm also needing a new wheel because the current one will not take an 11 speed 5800 cassette then I may have to rethink and possibly just replace some parts in stages.
Looking at Shimano RS010 or RS11 rear wheel to keep costs down. Can't afford full new bike option yet (next year hopefully) but looking at keep the Ventura CP50 going for as long as possible with some good upgrades.
Edited by aspick on Monday 7th September 10:09
aspick said:
Thanks for all the advice.
I was going to go for the full 105 5800 groupset from Wiggle in black (£299) and would have chosen the 50/34 front and 11/32 rear with a 175mm cranklength as this is what the cheaper Ice crank is on the bike right now.
I'm no bike mechanic so not sure about how all these components fit - I would have had a go at the brake calipers and a few other things myself but may have left the chainring/BB/front and rear derailleur/chain for my local bike shop to fit for me.
I understand the front dr that comes with this groupset package is braze on so will need a separate adapter for that (another £8 or so)
Not sure if the package comes complete with new cables.
However, if I'm also needing a new wheel because the current one will not take an 11 speed 5800 cassette then I may have to rethink and possibly just replace some parts in stages.
Looking at Shimano RS010 or RS11 rear wheel to keep costs down. Can't afford full new bike option yet (next year hopefully) but looking at keep the Ventura CP50 going for as long as possible with some good upgrades.
I'd take shorter cranks (172.5?) unless you're 6'2" or more personally.I was going to go for the full 105 5800 groupset from Wiggle in black (£299) and would have chosen the 50/34 front and 11/32 rear with a 175mm cranklength as this is what the cheaper Ice crank is on the bike right now.
I'm no bike mechanic so not sure about how all these components fit - I would have had a go at the brake calipers and a few other things myself but may have left the chainring/BB/front and rear derailleur/chain for my local bike shop to fit for me.
I understand the front dr that comes with this groupset package is braze on so will need a separate adapter for that (another £8 or so)
Not sure if the package comes complete with new cables.
However, if I'm also needing a new wheel because the current one will not take an 11 speed 5800 cassette then I may have to rethink and possibly just replace some parts in stages.
Looking at Shimano RS010 or RS11 rear wheel to keep costs down. Can't afford full new bike option yet (next year hopefully) but looking at keep the Ventura CP50 going for as long as possible with some good upgrades.
Edited by aspick on Monday 7th September 10:09
You will need a new wheel, RS010 is 10 speed as well so you need RS11 or R501 if you want a cheap one.
With a 34/32 lowest gear you should be able to ride up a vertical wall, and the 105 group is much nicer to use than Sora so you'll really notice the difference. It should drop half a kilo or so of weight as well.
^ that. Shorter cranks the better as far as I'm concerned. The 10-speed R500s should fetch £50 or so on Ebay, if you buy a similar basic 11-speed wheelset it'll be fine for future winter road duties too.
Whilst changing the shifters add some nice Fizik etc dark/black bar tape to replace the horrible white OE stuff that's probably filthy already.
Whilst changing the shifters add some nice Fizik etc dark/black bar tape to replace the horrible white OE stuff that's probably filthy already.
Took mine out for it's first test ride on Saturday. Covered around 43 miles averaging just shy of 17mph. Longest ride in a couple of years so pleased with that.
Overall very impressed with the bike. The gears and brakes need a little fine tuning but that's probably to be expected with any new bike so not bothered with that. Brake pads aren't brilliant but are adequate.
Geometry wise it's fine, cranks may be a little on the long side but I can possibly adjust the seat forward to account for this.
My previous bike is a late 80s Peugeot, so I'm enjoying the benefits of no longer having downtube shifters, a huge weight saving between the two bikes, and everything being new and shiny!
That's about as in depth a review as I can give, but for anyone looking for an entry level road bike with plenty of scope for upgrading at a superb price I would recommend this without doubt.
Overall very impressed with the bike. The gears and brakes need a little fine tuning but that's probably to be expected with any new bike so not bothered with that. Brake pads aren't brilliant but are adequate.
Geometry wise it's fine, cranks may be a little on the long side but I can possibly adjust the seat forward to account for this.
My previous bike is a late 80s Peugeot, so I'm enjoying the benefits of no longer having downtube shifters, a huge weight saving between the two bikes, and everything being new and shiny!
That's about as in depth a review as I can give, but for anyone looking for an entry level road bike with plenty of scope for upgrading at a superb price I would recommend this without doubt.
Took my Cannondale Scalpel MTB out for a road ride last night (my daughter wanted to go out on her MTB), & it felt amazing after doing 5-6 rides on the Ventura.
I can only guess that as my Scalpel has Coda Expert cranks/BB (cost me £600 about 13yrs ago) & is ali framed it accelerates so much quicker & feels so much stiffer/lighter. Wheels/tyres/tubes on the Scalpel are nothing special by the way. Would changing the cranks/BB on the Ventura make a noticeable difference? If so, what would I need & what rough cost is involved? Really happy with the bike in general, it's just not as light/fast as I thought it would be.
I can only guess that as my Scalpel has Coda Expert cranks/BB (cost me £600 about 13yrs ago) & is ali framed it accelerates so much quicker & feels so much stiffer/lighter. Wheels/tyres/tubes on the Scalpel are nothing special by the way. Would changing the cranks/BB on the Ventura make a noticeable difference? If so, what would I need & what rough cost is involved? Really happy with the bike in general, it's just not as light/fast as I thought it would be.
^34.9.
LHM, can't get my head around that tbh. Equally smooth roads? There's aero and rolling resistance for a start and if sized & sat correctly you should be able to put a lot more power through the std cranks compared to any mtb. Perhaps it doesn't fit you or you've just not adjusted yet to riding a road bike?
(I also ride Giant AnthemX - similar to a Scalpel, and a SS 29er for reference)
HTII BB & Crankset will shave a bit of weight over the std SqTaper set up, that's it really. And you'll only notice lower weight climbing.
It weighs no more than any other carbon bike with Sora, R500s & entry level Ritchey finishing kit btw. Stripped down it's a pretty light frameset.
LHM, can't get my head around that tbh. Equally smooth roads? There's aero and rolling resistance for a start and if sized & sat correctly you should be able to put a lot more power through the std cranks compared to any mtb. Perhaps it doesn't fit you or you've just not adjusted yet to riding a road bike?
(I also ride Giant AnthemX - similar to a Scalpel, and a SS 29er for reference)
HTII BB & Crankset will shave a bit of weight over the std SqTaper set up, that's it really. And you'll only notice lower weight climbing.
It weighs no more than any other carbon bike with Sora, R500s & entry level Ritchey finishing kit btw. Stripped down it's a pretty light frameset.
richardxjr said:
^34.9.
LHM, can't get my head around that tbh. Equally smooth roads? There's aero and rolling resistance for a start and if sized & sat correctly you should be able to put a lot more power through the std cranks compared to any mtb. Perhaps it doesn't fit you or you've just not adjusted yet to riding a road bike?
(I also ride Giant AnthemX - similar to a Scalpel, and a SS 29er for reference)
HTII BB & Crankset will shave a bit of weight over the std SqTaper set up, that's it really. And you'll only notice lower weight climbing.
It weighs no more than any other carbon bike with Sora, R500s & entry level Ritchey finishing kit btw. Stripped down it's a pretty light frameset.
What I was trying to say is that the Scalpel feels so stiff & light &, well, connected, it has instant acceleration. The Ventura is actually quicker I'm sure, it just doesn't feel like it & I want to replicate the feeling of the Scalpel. I'm sure I haven't fully adjusted to riding a road bike, that will probably take a few hundred more miles.LHM, can't get my head around that tbh. Equally smooth roads? There's aero and rolling resistance for a start and if sized & sat correctly you should be able to put a lot more power through the std cranks compared to any mtb. Perhaps it doesn't fit you or you've just not adjusted yet to riding a road bike?
(I also ride Giant AnthemX - similar to a Scalpel, and a SS 29er for reference)
HTII BB & Crankset will shave a bit of weight over the std SqTaper set up, that's it really. And you'll only notice lower weight climbing.
It weighs no more than any other carbon bike with Sora, R500s & entry level Ritchey finishing kit btw. Stripped down it's a pretty light frameset.
I took mine out last night and did a bit of a hill route on it. On the way back I started to get a creak from the crank area, felt like a bearing failure or something. Didn't stop to investigate as it wasn't a catastrophic failure and I wanted to get home.
So, what's the likely issue? Also, if I wanted to throw a new bottom bracket and crank etc. on it what should I buy? Anyone got any links to stuff that will be a guaranteed fit.
Or, (as I live in central Newcastle and am lucky to have a few LBS nearby) should I drop it into a shop and get it looked at before spending cash on stuff I might not need?
So, what's the likely issue? Also, if I wanted to throw a new bottom bracket and crank etc. on it what should I buy? Anyone got any links to stuff that will be a guaranteed fit.
Or, (as I live in central Newcastle and am lucky to have a few LBS nearby) should I drop it into a shop and get it looked at before spending cash on stuff I might not need?
jamiebae said:
Probably just a loose bottom bracket which needs tightening. You should be able to buy a tool kit which includes a crank puller and a square taper BB socket as well as various other useful bits for £20 so I'd have a go yourself if you think you're up to it.
I bought a bike tool kit from Aldi, hadn't really considered that something may have just come loose. I figured it was nailed on to be something expensive. I'll stop being lazy and get the spanners out.LordHaveMurci said:
What I was trying to say is that the Scalpel feels so stiff & light &, well, connected, it has instant acceleration. The Ventura is actually quicker I'm sure, it just doesn't feel like it & I want to replicate the feeling of the Scalpel. I'm sure I haven't fully adjusted to riding a road bike, that will probably take a few hundred more miles.
Can't help you with the why it does, but I love the way my (2002) Scalpel feels fast too. Maybe it's the relatively aggressive position, for an MTB, or the XC race geometry. Who knows. But I love mine too. Maybe try a road bike with a reputation for being stiff and responsive and see if it feels any better. CAAD8/10/12 or SupersSix perhaps at your nearest Evans. Hopefully it won't and you'll know you just need to get used to the Ventura.
Frameset will feel as stiff as any mainstream brands lower priced carbon stuff 
SHutchinson, check the crank bolts first. (You'd have to undo them anyway to get to the BB) and the pedals too. Seem to recall my cranks weren't done up particularly tightly when I checked, before swapping them out for HTII
SHutchinson, check the crank bolts first. (You'd have to undo them anyway to get to the BB) and the pedals too. Seem to recall my cranks weren't done up particularly tightly when I checked, before swapping them out for HTII
Unless you can really put some decent power down on hills or sprints, I doubt you will differentiate between the stiffness of different carbon frames and if you do its more likely wheel flex which I find is noticeable on cheaper wheels
The MTB might feel quicker as you have the fit spot on, lower ratio gears etc
Sometimes I take my MTB with slicks for a trial run round the block , on narrow short streets I think "blimey this feels almost as quick as my road bike". Then I commute to work on it, turn into a long road that's always got a headwind and realise its not and after 10 miles its definitely not quicker than my road bike!!
On my best Carbon bike, it takes me about 1-2 hours of riding before I can really exploit the benefits of it (aggressive position/aero wheels/close gear ratios), on my commute there isn't much different between my bikes.
The MTB might feel quicker as you have the fit spot on, lower ratio gears etc
Sometimes I take my MTB with slicks for a trial run round the block , on narrow short streets I think "blimey this feels almost as quick as my road bike". Then I commute to work on it, turn into a long road that's always got a headwind and realise its not and after 10 miles its definitely not quicker than my road bike!!
On my best Carbon bike, it takes me about 1-2 hours of riding before I can really exploit the benefits of it (aggressive position/aero wheels/close gear ratios), on my commute there isn't much different between my bikes.
SHutchinson said:
I took mine out last night and did a bit of a hill route on it. On the way back I started to get a creak from the crank area, felt like a bearing failure or something. Didn't stop to investigate as it wasn't a catastrophic failure and I wanted to get home.
So, what's the likely issue? Also, if I wanted to throw a new bottom bracket and crank etc. on it what should I buy? Anyone got any links to stuff that will be a guaranteed fit.
Or, (as I live in central Newcastle and am lucky to have a few LBS nearby) should I drop it into a shop and get it looked at before spending cash on stuff I might not need?
Could be:So, what's the likely issue? Also, if I wanted to throw a new bottom bracket and crank etc. on it what should I buy? Anyone got any links to stuff that will be a guaranteed fit.
Or, (as I live in central Newcastle and am lucky to have a few LBS nearby) should I drop it into a shop and get it looked at before spending cash on stuff I might not need?
-pedal bearing, if it's a cheap plastic pair you're using
-crank arm loose on the BB spindle, if so tighten ASAP
-BB not tightened in frame, or needs removing and the threads greasing
-BB shot, bearings gone & creaking
Barchettaman said:
Could be:
-pedal bearing, if it's a cheap plastic pair you're using
-crank arm loose on the BB spindle, if so tighten ASAP
-BB not tightened in frame, or needs removing and the threads greasing
-BB shot, bearings gone & creaking
Cheers fella, I'll get all of those things checked once I get home. They all seem pretty sensible and along the lines of what I was thinking.-pedal bearing, if it's a cheap plastic pair you're using
-crank arm loose on the BB spindle, if so tighten ASAP
-BB not tightened in frame, or needs removing and the threads greasing
-BB shot, bearings gone & creaking
SHutchinson said:
Barchettaman said:
Could be:
-pedal bearing, if it's a cheap plastic pair you're using
-crank arm loose on the BB spindle, if so tighten ASAP
-BB not tightened in frame, or needs removing and the threads greasing
-BB shot, bearings gone & creaking
Cheers fella, I'll get all of those things checked once I get home. They all seem pretty sensible and along the lines of what I was thinking.-pedal bearing, if it's a cheap plastic pair you're using
-crank arm loose on the BB spindle, if so tighten ASAP
-BB not tightened in frame, or needs removing and the threads greasing
-BB shot, bearings gone & creaking
jamiebae said:
Probably just a loose bottom bracket which needs tightening. You should be able to buy a tool kit which includes a crank puller and a square taper BB socket as well as various other useful bits for £20 so I'd have a go yourself if you think you're up to it.
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