Compact vs Standard chainset
Discussion
I never thought I would look for anything more that a compact setup but Im finding now that Im running out of gears on some rides, Im at the top of my cadence and feel like I could push a bigger gear.
Im obviously cautious about not handicapping myself on the uphills but the rides I do rarely result in me being at the bottom end of my gears.
What are the general views on compact vs a 50+ front ring?
Im obviously cautious about not handicapping myself on the uphills but the rides I do rarely result in me being at the bottom end of my gears.
What are the general views on compact vs a 50+ front ring?
I use a 39:53 front and in a silly moment geared my bike with the highest ratio rear cassette I could buy. I find I hardly go into my highest gear preferring to spin on the large front chainring and in the middle gears at the rear unless its a long fast downhill, but I still manage the big hills faster than all my friends who have lower gears at hand as I guess they are spinning a higher cadence to make less progress. I'll beef up my legs to justify my purchase I'm sure.
There's a 'middle ground' 52/36 option as well, if you want bigger than 'compact', but don't want to go to a 53/39 'standard' chainset.
50/34 compact
52/36 'pro' compact
53/39 standard
My experience extends to an older steel road bike running 53/39, and a modern aluminium road bike with a 50/34, but I've not really ridden them back-to-back to compare them, so I don't feel qualified to proffer any advice...
50/34 compact
52/36 'pro' compact
53/39 standard
My experience extends to an older steel road bike running 53/39, and a modern aluminium road bike with a 50/34, but I've not really ridden them back-to-back to compare them, so I don't feel qualified to proffer any advice...
aea730 said:
I never thought I would look for anything more that a compact setup but Im finding now that Im running out of gears on some rides, Im at the top of my cadence and feel like I could push a bigger gear.
Im obviously cautious about not handicapping myself on the uphills but the rides I do rarely result in me being at the bottom end of my gears.
What are the general views on compact vs a 50+ front ring?
Are you spinning out on the flat or downhill? Im obviously cautious about not handicapping myself on the uphills but the rides I do rarely result in me being at the bottom end of my gears.
What are the general views on compact vs a 50+ front ring?
If downhill, work on an aero descending position. You'll probably get more benefit from that than you would from pedlaling a sprocket with one fewer teeth.
If on the flat, find a pro team willing to sign you!
I have just dropped from a 53/39 to a 50/34 as I always found that I was running in the 4 largest cogs on the back, when in the big ring. I have a 11-25 on the back and my rear mec could not cope with a 28 ( although it claimed it could)
No I mostly run on the bottom 5 cogs so the chain angle is much better, although my top speed has dropped by about 3 mph to 40 , another bonus I'd that the smaller chain set is stiffer and so less flex when really sprinting
Simon
No I mostly run on the bottom 5 cogs so the chain angle is much better, although my top speed has dropped by about 3 mph to 40 , another bonus I'd that the smaller chain set is stiffer and so less flex when really sprinting
Simon
Tiddy1 said:
I have just dropped from a 53/39 to a 50/34 as I always found that I was running in the 4 largest cogs on the back, when in the big ring. I have a 11-25 on the back and my rear mec could not cope with a 28 ( although it claimed it could)
No I mostly run on the bottom 5 cogs so the chain angle is much better, although my top speed has dropped by about 3 mph to 40 , another bonus I'd that the smaller chain set is stiffer and so less flex when really sprinting
Simon
Flex your chainset? No I mostly run on the bottom 5 cogs so the chain angle is much better, although my top speed has dropped by about 3 mph to 40 , another bonus I'd that the smaller chain set is stiffer and so less flex when really sprinting
Simon
Greg66 said:
Are you spinning out on the flat or downhill?
If downhill, work on an aero descending position. You'll probably get more benefit from that than you would from pedlaling a sprocket with one fewer teeth.
If on the flat, find a pro team willing to sign you!
Hmmm, like that one Greg, it's the downhill into flat sections where I seem to run out. Certainly nothing to do with my Kittel like performance ,If downhill, work on an aero descending position. You'll probably get more benefit from that than you would from pedlaling a sprocket with one fewer teeth.
If on the flat, find a pro team willing to sign you!
aea730 said:
Just a bit more info which makes me think maybe I'm under geared at the back
I'm 50/34 chainset
The rear block is 13 14 15. 16. 17. 18. 19. 21. 23. 26
Would I benefit from some revision to the block, I'm just conscious of not ending up with big gaps in the gearing
I think I would try a 12-25 or an 11-25 cassette before trying a new crankset, tbh. You still won't have anything bigger than a two tooth jump at the blunt end of the cassette, and if you can get up something in 34/26, you probably can in 34/25, even if you don't quite know it yet...I'm 50/34 chainset
The rear block is 13 14 15. 16. 17. 18. 19. 21. 23. 26
Would I benefit from some revision to the block, I'm just conscious of not ending up with big gaps in the gearing
Tiddy1 said:
I have just dropped from a 53/39 to a 50/34 as I always found that I was running in the 4 largest cogs on the back, when in the big ring. I have a 11-25 on the back and my rear mec could not cope with a 28 ( although it claimed it could)
No I mostly run on the bottom 5 cogs so the chain angle is much better, although my top speed has dropped by about 3 mph to 40 , another bonus I'd that the smaller chain set is stiffer and so less flex when really sprinting
Simon
You mean from a 50/34 to a 53/39 if you were previously under-geared? No I mostly run on the bottom 5 cogs so the chain angle is much better, although my top speed has dropped by about 3 mph to 40 , another bonus I'd that the smaller chain set is stiffer and so less flex when really sprinting
Simon
O/p: as mentioned go for a 12-25 or 11-25 cassette and that will sort it. I have a 52/13 top and it is just about ok- certainly wouldn't want any shorter top gear.
No, as I said I dropped from a 53/39 to a 50/34 as I felt I was overgeared, hence using the 4 largest cogs on the block most of the time. Now I only have 50-11 top gear and hence reduction in top end spin out speed.
going from a 25 to a 28 on the rear has the same effect as going from a 39 to a 34 on the front,
39-25 = 42" gear
39-28 = 38"
34-25 = 37"
34-28 = 33"
going from a 25 to a 28 on the rear has the same effect as going from a 39 to a 34 on the front,
39-25 = 42" gear
39-28 = 38"
34-25 = 37"
34-28 = 33"
I run a 52:36 Q ring and 11:28 rear. I find this is the best compromise to sustain a comfortable cadence and not run out of gears on flats or climbs. I did run 53:39, but my cadence was dropping when trying to ride around 110%+ FTP.
Good shout on aero or general efficiency when riding and bike handling. I ride narrow and low (38cm bars and slammed), plus on fast descents will lower body to hover over top tube. With good hubs you carry a lot of speed anyway, quizzing past your bigger mates!
Good shout on aero or general efficiency when riding and bike handling. I ride narrow and low (38cm bars and slammed), plus on fast descents will lower body to hover over top tube. With good hubs you carry a lot of speed anyway, quizzing past your bigger mates!
I'd suggest 11-25 with the 50/34 as a good compromise. I'm looking to make the jump up to standard as I realised 53/39 with 11/28 gives me near as damnit the same lowest ratio as 50/34 with the 11/25.
I wouldn't say I'm spinning out 50/25 but I'm certainly lacking choice of gear at that point.
I wouldn't say I'm spinning out 50/25 but I'm certainly lacking choice of gear at that point.
When i changed to a standard i found the smallest gear the biggest issue. In fact i plan to do a 10,000ft sportive later this month and for that I'll be putting the compact back on.
It's not that i don't have the strength to get up climbs, i always get up them and if it's a short ride i'll be faster up them. It's the damage that it does doing it. My legs are still getting stronger as a result of the change be be mindful of the longer steep climbs.
It's not that i don't have the strength to get up climbs, i always get up them and if it's a short ride i'll be faster up them. It's the damage that it does doing it. My legs are still getting stronger as a result of the change be be mindful of the longer steep climbs.
Soop Dogg said:
Do you EVER use your 26?
If not, and if you think you can permanently manage without it, get rid of it and add a sprocket of 11 or 12T at the other end of the cassette, so you have 12-13-14-15-16-17-18-19-21-23
Means you won't have any gaps where you didn't have them before.
that only works if the system has consistent gaps between sprockets. I know Campag doesn't work that way - shimano/SRAM?If not, and if you think you can permanently manage without it, get rid of it and add a sprocket of 11 or 12T at the other end of the cassette, so you have 12-13-14-15-16-17-18-19-21-23
Means you won't have any gaps where you didn't have them before.
I keep swapping out my 53/39 and 50/34 between a 12-25 and 11-23 cassette (10spd campy)
I think i really will be getting some 52/36 rings to fit to the compact and have done with it.
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