Getting an MTB, what else do I need?

[Craikeybaby]

I've got the bike:
New bike by Lewis Craik, on Flickr

And the various bits, except tubes, after I guessed wrong when I was in the LBS to buy a helmet. Will call in again tomorrow to try to swap them.

I've realised that I also need some sort of lock, as it would have been handy to ride up to the LBS, but don't want to leave my bike unattended.

What is needed in the way of regular maintenance? Do I need some sort of chain lube or something?

[Jayyylo]

Generally, I buy a tin of GT85 and use it to lube everything that needs it. With all things bikes, you can spend as much as you choose on very simple things.

Within the first 4-6 weeks you'll probably notice your gears going out and not shifting accurately because the new cables stretch. I assume you don't have a great amount of mechanical knowledge so maybe take it to your LBS and get them to show you how to set up the gears so you know for the future.

[Justin Cyder]

I'd go along with that. There's nothing sweeter than a bike that shifts perfectly from one gear to another & nothing worse than one that grinds it's way round the cassette.

[daddy cool]

Nice looking bike!

Craikeybaby said:

What is needed in the way of regular maintenance? Do I need some sort of chain lube or something?

I'd advise getting a chain cleaner (prices vary from ~£15 to ~30). Every couple of rides enclose the chain in the machine, fill it with a good degreaser/cleaner (Halfords citrus degreaser is ace and cheap) and back-peddle the cranks. After about 30 revolutions the chain will be a shiny as new! Dry the chain off thoroughly, then apply oil. At this time of year a "wet lube" will be most appropriate. In the summer when its bone dry, and if you ride in sandy conditions (like Swinley, or Cannock) a dry lube will pick up less grit in your ride.
I dont personally use GT85 as a chain lube, but use it elsewhere - as a general cleaner for the frame, to lube detail parts (jockey wheels, deraileur linkages) and also to lube the forks. To do that (after having washed the bike) spray GT85 around the stanchions. Push down on the forks as hard as possible and release, and they should bring up some muck. Wipe with a soft cloth and repeat until no muck is visible. Just dont get GT85 or any kind of lube near your brakes - cover them with a clean rag if you are spraying willy-nilly.
In a years time buy a chain checker (a couple of quid) and if the chain has stretched, replace. A stretched chain will start wearing the rest of the drivechain quicker.

[yellowjack]

daddy cool said:

Nice looking bike!

Craikeybaby said:

What is needed in the way of regular maintenance? Do I need some sort of chain lube or something?

I'd advise getting a chain cleaner (prices vary from ~£15 to ~30). Every couple of rides enclose the chain in the machine, fill it with a good degreaser/cleaner (Halfords citrus degreaser is ace and cheap) and back-peddle the cranks. After about 30 revolutions the chain will be a shiny as new! Dry the chain off thoroughly, then apply oil. At this time of year a "wet lube" will be most appropriate. In the summer when its bone dry, and if you ride in sandy conditions (like Swinley, or Cannock) a dry lube will pick up less grit in your ride.
I dont personally use GT85 as a chain lube, but use it elsewhere - as a general cleaner for the frame, to lube detail parts (jockey wheels, deraileur linkages) and also to lube the forks. To do that (after having washed the bike) spray GT85 around the stanchions. Push down on the forks as hard as possible and release, and they should bring up some muck. Wipe with a soft cloth and repeat until no muck is visible. Just dont get GT85 or any kind of lube near your brakes - cover them with a clean rag if you are spraying willy-nilly.
In a years time buy a chain checker (a couple of quid) and if the chain has stretched, replace. A stretched chain will start wearing the rest of the drivechain quicker.

Definitely need chain lube of some kind, even if you just put some engine or gearbox oil on there. Needs to be a 'Wet Lube' at this time of year, too. One downpour yesterday, with dry lube still on the chain, and this morning the chain is rusty

It's had a blast with WD40 to stop it getting worse, but I'm off out in a bit to buy more of the Halfords citrus degreaser 'daddycool' mentioned, along with some decent Wet Lube for the chain.

I also have a Muc Off 'Chain Doc' cleaning system (a gift) for quick cleaning of the chain on the bike, or I take it off and put it in an old ice cream tub with the citrus degreaser and use an old toothbrush to scrub it if I take it off. Use GT85/WD40 to keep things like the derailleur pivots clean, and run a little into the threads of the adjustment screws on said derailleurs, and into the barrel adjusters on your gear cables. Clean any muck off the exposed inner gear cables and wipe the cables with some chain lube on a rag. As 'dc' says, it's essential to keep aerosol spray and liquid lube well away from brake discs and pads, but so long as you keep the moving parts clean and lubricated you'll not go far wrong.

Some ideas...

http://www.wiggle.co.uk/muc-off-chain-doc-chain-cl...

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Park-Tool-CM5-2-Cyclone-Sc...

http://www.halfords.com/cycling/tools-maintenance/...

[richardxjr]

Looks nice. Did you pick up 26" tubes instead of 27"? They'll still fit (and be lighter )

[Craikeybaby]

Thanks for all the chain cleaning/lube advice, I'll have a look at the LBS later.

richardxjr said:

Looks nice. Did you pick up 26" tubes instead of 27"? They'll still fit (and be lighter )

Thanks, nope, I got schrader instead of presta, bought them before the bike arrived and figured I had a 50% chance of getting it right.

[Craikeybaby]

Thanks for all the advice, I seem to have got the hang of it. As predicted earlier in the thread I'm going to need to take it to the LBS as the gears need tweaked (changes seem to have a 50% success rate) and the front brake is squeaking.

Are chainstay protectors a good idea? I've noticed a few chips on the chainstay, but wrapping some neoprene around it seems like a recipe to trap dirt/moisture.

[Craikeybaby]

daddy cool said:

Just dont get GT85 or any kind of lube near your brakes - cover them with a clean rag if you are spraying willy-nilly.

This is the key bit of information, that I kind of forgot, sprayed the chain with GT85, without covering the disc, now rear brake isn't very effective. Is that new pads and/or disc?

[richardxjr]

You might have contaminated the pads, see if it cleans itself up over the next few rides. Back brakes are secondary anyhow

[Craikeybaby]

That's the plan, they still slow me down, I just can't lock up the wheel. The front brake is squeaking when I'm not braking, so I'm going to need to get it to the LBS sooner rather than later.

[daddy cool]

Craikeybaby said:

That's the plan, they still slow me down, I just can't lock up the wheel. The front brake is squeaking when I'm not braking, so I'm going to need to get it to the LBS sooner rather than later.

Rear - get some spare pads anyway, but they might be ok in a bit. If you have a hill nearby ride down it with the back brake on to cook them! Before that take the wheel off and clean the disc with fairly liquid and/or burn then with a windproof lighter or some sort of flamethrower.
Front brake should be easy - release the two Allen bolts to loosen caliper. Hold in place and apply front brake. Holding the lever, tighten up the Allen bolts. Disc should be central now and not squeak on each rotation. A spare pair of hands helps!

[deadtom]

Craikeybaby said:

This is the key bit of information, that I kind of forgot, sprayed the chain with GT85, without covering the disc, now rear brake isn't very effective. Is that new pads and/or disc?

probably new pads time I'm afraid, and be sure to clean the rotor thoroughly as well.

your LBS should re set the gears and give the bike a once over for you after 6 weeks or so. If they try and charge you for it they are a bad shop and they should feel bad.

[Craikeybaby]

daddy cool said:

Craikeybaby said:

That's the plan, they still slow me down, I just can't lock up the wheel. The front brake is squeaking when I'm not braking, so I'm going to need to get it to the LBS sooner rather than later.

Rear - get some spare pads anyway, but they might be ok in a bit. If you have a hill nearby ride down it with the back brake on to cook them! Before that take the wheel off and clean the disc with fairly liquid and/or burn then with a windproof lighter or some sort of flamethrower.
Front brake should be easy - release the two Allen bolts to loosen caliper. Hold in place and apply front brake. Holding the lever, tighten up the Allen bolts. Disc should be central now and not squeak on each rotation. A spare pair of hands helps!

Thanks, I'll give that a go, I went out for a ride after work, but I mustn't have used the brakes enough.

[Craikeybaby]

deadtom said:

probably new pads time I'm afraid, and be sure to clean the rotor thoroughly as well.

your LBS should re set the gears and give the bike a once over for you after 6 weeks or so. If they try and charge you for it they are a bad shop and they should feel bad.

To be fair, I'm a bad customer who bought online, although they didn't have any 650b hardtails, which was what I was after.

[Craikeybaby]

daddy cool said:

Front brake should be easy - release the two Allen bolts to loosen caliper. Hold in place and apply front brake. Holding the lever, tighten up the Allen bolts. Disc should be central now and not squeak on each rotation. A spare pair of hands helps!

I had a go at this over the weekend, but need to do a bit more research as there was only one allen bolt on my caliper, the rest are all torx by the looks of things.

I didn't actually manage to get out on my bike this weekend, when I wasn't busy doing DIY etc it was chucking it down

[Silver940]

I find White Spirit works well as a chain degreaser, cheaper than the halfords citrus stuff if you don't mind the smell. probably not so healthy for the drive though!