Mountain Bike Weight
Discussion
If you really want to knock the weight down you'll need to be a lot more nerdy than you are at the moment - get a full kit listing, and accurate weights.
My steel SRAM XX cassette (11-32) was lighter than my titanium Dura Ace 11-25, so MTB stuff can be "proper" light.
However, be aware that you'll be looking at an average of £1 per 1 gram saved - so if you want to lose a kilo be prepared to drop a grand doing it safely.
My steel SRAM XX cassette (11-32) was lighter than my titanium Dura Ace 11-25, so MTB stuff can be "proper" light.
However, be aware that you'll be looking at an average of £1 per 1 gram saved - so if you want to lose a kilo be prepared to drop a grand doing it safely.
Tiddy1 said:
I'm astounded that that bike weighs only 8kg, my small framed Dura-ace equiped Canyon ultimate CF pro weighes 7.8kg and the canyon frame and fork is 1200g vs the lurcher 2.1kg, where the hell did you save the weight?
I'm amazed you managed to get UP to that weight? Unless you've got some very heavy wheels on?My Boardman Pro Carbon is currently at 7.4kg inc pedals - with an 1400g frame and fork..
Yes, I was a little dissapointed when I weighed it, but I weighed every individual part during the build and I did not see where I could save much weight. The wheels are fulcrum Quatros that come in at 1870g for the pair so may be 300g to be had there without going carbon. Also running pro race 4tyres which come in at 650g a pair so 200g possible there. It did have a couple ov bottle cages and a computer but they are no more than 100g total. Everything else is either carbon durace or ultegra so not much to be had without serious extra money
To be honest at the beginning of the year I set myself the goal to loose the weight of my bike off me and have managed 10kg so my bike effectively weighs nothing
To be honest at the beginning of the year I set myself the goal to loose the weight of my bike off me and have managed 10kg so my bike effectively weighs nothing
dave123456 said:
do you mind me asking which trek they were off? mine were off a fuel ex-7 and I suspect that they may be the millstone!
6700 hardtail.Not massively heavy but then I did go silly with the new ones - 190g a rim for a start!
TBH, while riding the whippet is awesome, I've just come back from a weekend at Brechfa and other than the two steepest climbs which I just twiddled up, my 30lb canyon nerve was never an issue - and that's coming from an ex weight-weenie roadie.
(Although some new lighter AM wheels will be ordered this year
- just don't tell SWMBO...)yonex said:
I was amazed by the weight of my new mtb. The wheels are Stans Flow no tubes, lighter than my road wheels. All in the bike is 9.1kg, frame 900g. I would never have believed anything with forks and knobbly tyres could be this light.
My 26" Flows on Hope hubs were 1880g with tape and valves (29er version is just over 2kg) so the road wheels must've been quite heavy. My 35mm wide 29er Light Bicycle carbon rims on 32H Pro2 Evo hubs came in at bang on 1700g, which still isn't amazingly light, but if I hadn't used my existing hubs I might have managed to sneak the weight under 1600g using lighter 28H hubs (DT240 possibly). Back to the OP. There's a few areas you can still lose weight
Frame: Cotic Soul medium (c2000g)
Fork: Rock Shox Reba SL 2006 vintage (c1600g)
Stem: Thomson Elite (c160g) - Syntace Megaforce 50mm - 122g
Handlebar: Answer Pro taper (315g) - Kinesis Strut 750mm - 175g
Brakes: Hayes Stroker Gram (670g) - Formula R1 brakes - 560g
Shifters: Deore XT 9 speed (260g)
Rear derailleur: Deore XT 9 speed (270g)
Front derailleur: Deore XT (??150g)
Chainset: Deore LX hollowtch (???)
Seatpost: Thomson Elite (c250g)
Saddle: Selle Italia Turbo (c270g) - Selle Italia SLR 135 - 135g
Wheels: Bontrager Select (?? no idea) -
Tyres: At the moment Schwalbe Sammy Slick (980g)
Almost 1lb saved without looking at the wheels and cranks where I reckon at least another 1-2lbs should be achievable. Going 1x10 allows you to ditch the front mech, shifter and cable, but you might need to add a 40t range expander to the cassette which would only be 60g or so but should save another 1/2lb. After that you're into the realms of proper weight weenie territory shaving single figure grams from the rear mech, spoke choice, titanium bolts, super lightweight rotors etc.
Tiddy1 said:
Yes, I was a little dissapointed when I weighed it, but I weighed every individual part during the build and I did not see where I could save much weight. The wheels are fulcrum Quatros that come in at 1870g for the pair so may be 300g to be had there without going carbon. Also running pro race 4tyres which come in at 650g a pair so 200g possible there. It did have a couple ov bottle cages and a computer but they are no more than 100g total. Everything else is either carbon durace or ultegra so not much to be had without serious extra money
To be honest at the beginning of the year I set myself the goal to loose the weight of my bike off me and have managed 10kg so my bike effectively weighs nothing
We've found the extra over mine then - it's in wheels and tyres, still not a heavy bike by anyone's measure of course!To be honest at the beginning of the year I set myself the goal to loose the weight of my bike off me and have managed 10kg so my bike effectively weighs nothing
Steve UK said:
Hello,
Just reading that was funny as its exactly what I am doing.
I did have a Cotic Bfe frame with Revelation 130mm qr forks, Thompson post carbon bars and Bontranger wheels 1x9 gears and recently decided it was too heavy and this is the reason my mates keep beating me :-)
I have now bought a Soul frame, new Rebas and just saving for some Stans no tube Arch EX rims and Hope hubs, I will also go from 2.2 to 2.0 tyres. Hoping for just under 12kg.... Should be about 1 kg lighter than my Bfe build :-)
As she is without the Reba and new wheels, already feels quicker. I have took off the chain guide too and fitted a Hope retainer ring.
Hello,Just reading that was funny as its exactly what I am doing.
I did have a Cotic Bfe frame with Revelation 130mm qr forks, Thompson post carbon bars and Bontranger wheels 1x9 gears and recently decided it was too heavy and this is the reason my mates keep beating me :-)
I have now bought a Soul frame, new Rebas and just saving for some Stans no tube Arch EX rims and Hope hubs, I will also go from 2.2 to 2.0 tyres. Hoping for just under 12kg.... Should be about 1 kg lighter than my Bfe build :-)
As she is without the Reba and new wheels, already feels quicker. I have took off the chain guide too and fitted a Hope retainer ring.
Got my wheels this week and finished the upgrades, just weighed it and it is now 11.5 kg. Size large with some time pedals and tool bag. Looking forward to my next trip to Cannock now :-)
Steve
My standard go-to tyre recommendation for British Isles XC (non-competitive) is the Maxxis ADvantage (http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/ie/en/maxxis-advantage-mtb-tyre-exception-series/rp-prod51565) in folding bead, 2.1" and (if you can get it) the 60a rubber. A very good all-round tyre, grippy enough and fast-rolling. The local Uni club uses only these on the club XC bikes.
jogon said:
My Pace RC200 currently weighs in at 12.9kg - full XTR, sup wheels with titanium spokes, Race Face carbon cranks and Pace RC36 forks.
Please tell me where you live so I can pinch your bike!! That was my poster bike as a child and I'm not really sure why as its not really a looker but I still want one.
So as everyone's talking wheels for the biggest improvement to a bike I'm currently running Giant S-XC29 2 wheels with Schwalbe Racing Ralph, 29x2.25 Performance Folding tyres. I'm led to believe that the wheels without tyres are 2302grams for the set.
Im due to go away in the next few months with work which means a bit of extra money in the bank and its about time I actually bought bike parts instead of lights and clothing (the bike is a Giant Anthem X29er 2 2013 which I ride XC/Trail so I still want to hit the odd jump on the trail)
I'm thinking of setting aside £1k for parts of which I need new brakes as the Elixir 1's are cheese so £500 for wheels (although if someone says chris king hubs built up are light I'll pay more as I've had Hope and always fancied CK)
Im due to go away in the next few months with work which means a bit of extra money in the bank and its about time I actually bought bike parts instead of lights and clothing (the bike is a Giant Anthem X29er 2 2013 which I ride XC/Trail so I still want to hit the odd jump on the trail)
I'm thinking of setting aside £1k for parts of which I need new brakes as the Elixir 1's are cheese so £500 for wheels (although if someone says chris king hubs built up are light I'll pay more as I've had Hope and always fancied CK)
Herman Toothrot said:
Remember great brakes these days if not a brand w
e are super cheap SLX / Deore sub £100 and are as good / better than old hopes etc.
I have to admit it I'm a brand we are super cheap SLX / Deore sub £100 and are as good / better than old hopes etc.e to a degree but I have been looking at the Shimano XT M785 Set for £125 thats not even one hope, although on my old Norco I just got a Hope M4 for the rear brake first then the front a couple of months later then a couple of months later went rear brake only!Edited by ecsrobin on Friday 7th November 00:29
cathalferris said:
Yep, 20kg. I was surprised as well. Brand new it was 16.75kg with crappy xc tyres and a standard seatpost on it, and the dropper seatpost, stiffer springs front and rear and decent tyres added the few extra kg.
I can still climb on it, it just takes me longer than the lower weight bikes ridden by those that have more better riding stamina than I do! I can generate huge power for fairly short bursts and outsprint almost everyone else in the bike club I ride with, but I'll be wiped out after 30-45 seconds of that! I'm about 98kg or so when fully kitted with Leatt d30 pressure suit, carbon neckbrace, d30 knee/shinguards, Camelbak Mule with 3kg of water in the bladder and another kilo of isotonic/electrolytes in bottles (I like to stay hydrated when on Alpine spins) and I have 28" thighs with a 32" waist with not a lot of bodyfat.. So I needed a bike built up to withstand the torque I can generate on a bike. My first hardtail ended up with a bent middle ring from the sideways torque when in middle on the front and big on the rear, to about 3-5mm sideways between each spider. That was a bit of an eyeopener. The rings did appear to be made of cheese though! Still the ReignX frame has withstood all my abuse as I've learned how to properly pedal and move my body around on the bike and I'm fairly fast on it on the across and the descents, just not so fast on the ups..
Thinking of tyres and drag, the ADvantages with ordinary tubes in the 60a compound roll very fast for me. In no-pedal races against both DH bikes and XC hardtails down some of the roads I descended in France, I was easily 5-10kph faster than the others in the group. When I transferred to Minion DHF/DHR, I went back to only 0-5kph faster. My absolute fastest speed on the bike was 83kph (on this run http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BpXyj_bYaeE) one Easter Sunday on a 3km long road (https://goo.gl/maps/Yqw6v) on Achill Island in the West of Ireland, the bike was 17kg. Took 45 min to cycle up, and 3 min to cycle down! Sorry for the poor video quality, it was a cheapy oregon scientific camera mounted on the handlebars.
This is possibly the best post I've read on here in ages! 44lbs for a Reign? are you weighing it with the camelbak strapped to it??I can still climb on it, it just takes me longer than the lower weight bikes ridden by those that have more better riding stamina than I do! I can generate huge power for fairly short bursts and outsprint almost everyone else in the bike club I ride with, but I'll be wiped out after 30-45 seconds of that! I'm about 98kg or so when fully kitted with Leatt d30 pressure suit, carbon neckbrace, d30 knee/shinguards, Camelbak Mule with 3kg of water in the bladder and another kilo of isotonic/electrolytes in bottles (I like to stay hydrated when on Alpine spins) and I have 28" thighs with a 32" waist with not a lot of bodyfat.. So I needed a bike built up to withstand the torque I can generate on a bike. My first hardtail ended up with a bent middle ring from the sideways torque when in middle on the front and big on the rear, to about 3-5mm sideways between each spider. That was a bit of an eyeopener. The rings did appear to be made of cheese though! Still the ReignX frame has withstood all my abuse as I've learned how to properly pedal and move my body around on the bike and I'm fairly fast on it on the across and the descents, just not so fast on the ups..
Thinking of tyres and drag, the ADvantages with ordinary tubes in the 60a compound roll very fast for me. In no-pedal races against both DH bikes and XC hardtails down some of the roads I descended in France, I was easily 5-10kph faster than the others in the group. When I transferred to Minion DHF/DHR, I went back to only 0-5kph faster. My absolute fastest speed on the bike was 83kph (on this run http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BpXyj_bYaeE) one Easter Sunday on a 3km long road (https://goo.gl/maps/Yqw6v) on Achill Island in the West of Ireland, the bike was 17kg. Took 45 min to cycle up, and 3 min to cycle down! Sorry for the poor video quality, it was a cheapy oregon scientific camera mounted on the handlebars.
Also, this - "built up to withstand the torque I can generate on a bike" made me laugh. I think the pro's are probably outdoing you for torque readings, so I wouldnt worry.
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