Which tyres will stop punctures ? Getting sick of them
Discussion
Speaking as someone 20kgs heavier than you are, I can categorically state that your weight is not the problem!! 
I've had many, many thousands of miles riding Conti Gatorskins with practically no punctures, and I've also run a couple of thousand on Vittoria Rubino Pros with only three punctures, one of which was from a drawing pin and one from a box staple, so would've punctured pretty much anything. I also use Conti CX Race (or something like that) 35c tyres on my CX bike for winter commuting, and they've also been fairly bulletproof. They're also much nicer to change if I do get a puncture, because they're a much looser fit on the rim, which is a godsend when your hands are cold and wet and you're struggling with tyre levers!
I did try changing to Conti GP 4 Seasons because the Gatorskins aren't much fun in the rain. Both on 23 and 28 tyres, I struggled to get more than 10 miles on my commutes into London without puncturing.
As a rule, I tend to run my tyres at the top end of the pressure range, primarily out of a desire to minimise the risk of pinch punctures given my weight, but it's interesting that someone else was getting fewer punctures by dropping the tyre pressures on 4 Seasons.
Does anyone know off hand if you can run road tyres tubeless? I do that on my MTB, and wouldn't go back, so for my commuter at least, I'm just now starting to wonder if this wouldn't also be an option...
I've had many, many thousands of miles riding Conti Gatorskins with practically no punctures, and I've also run a couple of thousand on Vittoria Rubino Pros with only three punctures, one of which was from a drawing pin and one from a box staple, so would've punctured pretty much anything. I also use Conti CX Race (or something like that) 35c tyres on my CX bike for winter commuting, and they've also been fairly bulletproof. They're also much nicer to change if I do get a puncture, because they're a much looser fit on the rim, which is a godsend when your hands are cold and wet and you're struggling with tyre levers!
I did try changing to Conti GP 4 Seasons because the Gatorskins aren't much fun in the rain. Both on 23 and 28 tyres, I struggled to get more than 10 miles on my commutes into London without puncturing.
As a rule, I tend to run my tyres at the top end of the pressure range, primarily out of a desire to minimise the risk of pinch punctures given my weight, but it's interesting that someone else was getting fewer punctures by dropping the tyre pressures on 4 Seasons.
Does anyone know off hand if you can run road tyres tubeless? I do that on my MTB, and wouldn't go back, so for my commuter at least, I'm just now starting to wonder if this wouldn't also be an option...
king puncture in Putney this morning on the faithful rubino!!! It was a huge bit of building flint. fKermit power said:
Speaking as someone 20kgs heavier than you are, I can categorically state that your weight is not the problem!!
I've had many, many thousands of miles riding Conti Gatorskins with practically no punctures, and I've also run a couple of thousand on Vittoria Rubino Pros with only three punctures, one of which was from a drawing pin and one from a box staple, so would've punctured pretty much anything. I also use Conti CX Race (or something like that) 35c tyres on my CX bike for winter commuting, and they've also been fairly bulletproof. They're also much nicer to change if I do get a puncture, because they're a much looser fit on the rim, which is a godsend when your hands are cold and wet and you're struggling with tyre levers!
I did try changing to Conti GP 4 Seasons because the Gatorskins aren't much fun in the rain. Both on 23 and 28 tyres, I struggled to get more than 10 miles on my commutes into London without puncturing.
As a rule, I tend to run my tyres at the top end of the pressure range, primarily out of a desire to minimise the risk of pinch punctures given my weight, but it's interesting that someone else was getting fewer punctures by dropping the tyre pressures on 4 Seasons.
Does anyone know off hand if you can run road tyres tubeless? I do that on my MTB, and wouldn't go back, so for my commuter at least, I'm just now starting to wonder if this wouldn't also be an option...
In aswer to your question , yes you can get tubless road tyres. Bontranger do a range of tyres that are tubeless ready, but also I believe Stans no tubes kits are available for road wheels now as well.I've had many, many thousands of miles riding Conti Gatorskins with practically no punctures, and I've also run a couple of thousand on Vittoria Rubino Pros with only three punctures, one of which was from a drawing pin and one from a box staple, so would've punctured pretty much anything. I also use Conti CX Race (or something like that) 35c tyres on my CX bike for winter commuting, and they've also been fairly bulletproof. They're also much nicer to change if I do get a puncture, because they're a much looser fit on the rim, which is a godsend when your hands are cold and wet and you're struggling with tyre levers!
I did try changing to Conti GP 4 Seasons because the Gatorskins aren't much fun in the rain. Both on 23 and 28 tyres, I struggled to get more than 10 miles on my commutes into London without puncturing.
As a rule, I tend to run my tyres at the top end of the pressure range, primarily out of a desire to minimise the risk of pinch punctures given my weight, but it's interesting that someone else was getting fewer punctures by dropping the tyre pressures on 4 Seasons.
Does anyone know off hand if you can run road tyres tubeless? I do that on my MTB, and wouldn't go back, so for my commuter at least, I'm just now starting to wonder if this wouldn't also be an option...
anonymous said:
[redacted]
Stupid question, but you are finding the sharp thing each time and removing it from your tyre - aren't you? Aside from that I've heard that high pressures can make tyres more vulnerable to sharp objects. A 25c or 28c run at a lower pressure might fare better.
Conti Sport Contacts seem to be very tough, at least in the 26" sizes. I've prised some very large chunks of glass and flints out of them which haven't gone through or damaged the carcass threads, which would have written off the lighter tyres I use on my other bikes.
They are not particularly light and can be tough to fit on some rims, but they roll well and rarely need to be removed.
They are not particularly light and can be tough to fit on some rims, but they roll well and rarely need to be removed.
Try some Stans. You squirt it in through the removable valve core. Got me through a few winters and even had a crack at sealing a 7mm slice!
Here's a video of some stabbing.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FTlZvOVG8zs
Here's a video of some stabbing.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FTlZvOVG8zs
Rocksteadyeddie said:
Try some Stans. You squirt it in through the removable valve core. Got me through a few winters and even had a crack at sealing a 7mm slice!
Here's a video of some stabbing.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FTlZvOVG8zs
I use Stans running tubeless on my mountain bikes, I did wonder about giving it a try on the road bike, so experience of putting inside a tube has been good?Here's a video of some stabbing.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FTlZvOVG8zs
I don't get this. You're using a tyre liner, and not riding in the grit infested gutter,and you're still puncturing every 100 or so miles? On the contact patch? Wtf is getting through the tyre *and* the liner, besides drywall screws?
I ride Pro4 Races with no liners, and those v light (read: thin) Conti inners on the commute and get a fraction of that number.
I'm really struggling to work out what can get through a tyre and a liner and yet not be found. I wonder whether you've got some shards of something on the liner that are doing a slow number working their way into the inner tube - perhaps try removing It and washing it.
I wouldn't think your weight is an issue (all right. Not this issue) unless you were flatting as you hit holes in the road - ie pinch flats.
Puzzling.
I ride Pro4 Races with no liners, and those v light (read: thin) Conti inners on the commute and get a fraction of that number.
I'm really struggling to work out what can get through a tyre and a liner and yet not be found. I wonder whether you've got some shards of something on the liner that are doing a slow number working their way into the inner tube - perhaps try removing It and washing it.
I wouldn't think your weight is an issue (all right. Not this issue) unless you were flatting as you hit holes in the road - ie pinch flats.
Puzzling.
Edited by anonymous-user on Friday 27th February 08:15
I'd be tempted to change to wider tyres and new inner tubes.
I've run 23mm gatorskins as I ride up some farm tracks on the way to work. I've moved to GP4000s and I have a better ride and no more punctures despite a lot of road debris. I only tend to get pinch punctures so run about 100 psi.
I've run 23mm gatorskins as I ride up some farm tracks on the way to work. I've moved to GP4000s and I have a better ride and no more punctures despite a lot of road debris. I only tend to get pinch punctures so run about 100 psi.
anonymous said:
[redacted]
As a tip on fitting the tyre, get it part way on, then wrap a rag round it and zip tie it in place nice and tight (or use the sort of compression straps you get with some tow bar bike carriers) and you can then work the tyre into the rim with a tyre lever from the other end nice and easily without the zip tied end trying to pop back out of the rim all the time. Herman Toothrot said:
Rocksteadyeddie said:
Try some Stans. You squirt it in through the removable valve core. Got me through a few winters and even had a crack at sealing a 7mm slice!
Here's a video of some stabbing.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FTlZvOVG8zs
I use Stans running tubeless on my mountain bikes, I did wonder about giving it a try on the road bike, so experience of putting inside a tube has been good?Here's a video of some stabbing.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FTlZvOVG8zs
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