Frame refurbishment options

Frame refurbishment options

Author
Discussion

tobinen

Original Poster:

9,222 posts

145 months

Wednesday 27th May 2015
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I've decided to strip down my mid-90s steel Bianchi and treat it to a spruce-up. It's just starting to show signs of rust and the top of the seat tube has split where the seat post collar goes round (bought like that). I'll also replace old components and bring it up to date a bit, e.g. crankset.

So far my internet trawling has narrowed down to two companies; Argos in Bristol (an hour away by car) or Ellis Briggs in Shipley (a lot further but can use mail).

Does anyone have any other recommendations? I'm leaning towards keeping it the original colour (an off-white) but I am open to a custom paint job or something funky.

anonymous-user

54 months

Wednesday 27th May 2015
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Argos for the frame repairs/refurb and Ooey for the paint, Ooey are not cheap but the result is simply stunning.

I'd keep it period too, places like Hilary Stone have new old stock components (though they are over priced on that site) but just have a wander round some bike jumbles and you will find good quality components without the need to go modern.

Dammit

3,790 posts

208 months

Wednesday 27th May 2015
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To do this properly will cost probably ten times the final value of the bike- if it has a lot of personal value then ignore me, but otherwise I'd examine what your goals are before opening your wallet.

tobinen

Original Poster:

9,222 posts

145 months

Wednesday 27th May 2015
quotequote all
Not too concerned with the value of the bike; to me it's practically zero I've had it that long.

Checking out Ooey now, not heard of them before. Very slow website.

Cheers chaps

Soop Dogg

411 posts

235 months

Wednesday 27th May 2015
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Ellis Briggs every time.

Been using them for over 30 years and their stove enamelling for steel frames is second to none.

And they'll do any refurbishment work as well as the paint. I've had them do the odd extra like adding another set of bottle cage bosses and they're very reasonable for that too.

They build a great frame too for anyone wanting a new steel frame.

I had my 1981 Favori restored there two years ago (lots of chrome involved too) and it still looks like the day it was built.

Matt_N

8,901 posts

202 months

Wednesday 27th May 2015
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If you're considering Argos in Bristol, I'd recommend Tim at http://www.tjcdesign.com/

He re-did parts on my Colnago and did a fantastic job.

He can re-finish to any colour you want and will paint the decals too if you need, he was primarily a motorbike painter but he is doing a good number of cycles now too as the word spreads about the quality of his work.

tobinen

Original Poster:

9,222 posts

145 months

Wednesday 27th May 2015
quotequote all
Thanks again thumbup

I'll start a new thread once it's in progress. I still need a few more tools (e.g. BB removal) but I should have it stripped in a few days. I think it will take longer to decide what paint to have.

prand

5,915 posts

196 months

Wednesday 27th May 2015
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I've always fancied getting the frame and forks of my old pub/station bike, which I now ride more than my other bikes, sand or shot blasted and a powdercoat put on. There are quite a few local outfits to me that could do such a thing, I'd imagine it's cheaper than a specialist bike shop at the opposite end of the country. Would these be recommended?

Matt_N

8,901 posts

202 months

Wednesday 27th May 2015
quotequote all
prand said:
I've always fancied getting the frame and forks of my old pub/station bike, which I now ride more than my other bikes, sand or shot blasted and a powdercoat put on. There are quite a few local outfits to me that could do such a thing, I'd imagine it's cheaper than a specialist bike shop at the opposite end of the country. Would these be recommended?
I had my steel winter bike blasted and 2 coat powder coated (base and lacquer) last autumn by a local metal finsihers for £80, great finish too.

prand

5,915 posts

196 months

Wednesday 27th May 2015
quotequote all
Matt_N said:
I had my steel winter bike blasted and 2 coat powder coated (base and lacquer) last autumn by a local metal finsihers for £80, great finish too.

that's kind what I'm thinking of. It's an old unloved bike, and £80 to resurrect it would be more than reasonable enough to give it a new lease of life. Might spend a couple of quid on some Marin decals too.

However, this may just make it a bit more nickable so maybe I leave my rat look pub bike as it is.

Moaningroadie

264 posts

192 months

Wednesday 27th May 2015
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Powder coating is great, but don't do it on an alloy frame. The powder needs to cure at 200 c or so which can lead to precipitation heat treatment (artificial aging) - not good.

eta - Vernon Barker did a 1990's Cannondale F series frame for me and did a nice job: http://www.vernonbarkercycles.co.uk/frame_spraying...


Edited by Moaningroadie on Wednesday 27th May 21:37

Dammit

3,790 posts

208 months

Wednesday 27th May 2015
quotequote all
When you say the seat tube has split, could you give a bit more detail?

This might mean that the tube needs to be cut out and replaced, if you want to do a proper resto.

ALawson

7,815 posts

251 months

Wednesday 27th May 2015
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Ooey did the paint job on my new frame (to me), they have done a few other people's I know and the finish is top knotch, he also does all Wyndy Millas frames.

prand

5,915 posts

196 months

Thursday 28th May 2015
quotequote all
Moaningroadie said:
Powder coating is great, but don't do it on an alloy frame. The powder needs to cure at 200 c or so which can lead to precipitation heat treatment (artificial aging) - not good.

eta - Vernon Barker did a 1990's Cannondale F series frame for me and did a nice job: http://www.vernonbarkercycles.co.uk/frame_spraying...


Edited by Moaningroadie on Wednesday 27th May 21:37
Interesting. Does this alloy heating issue include Chromoly? Surely 200C will not bother this sort of steel?

tobinen

Original Poster:

9,222 posts

145 months

Thursday 28th May 2015
quotequote all
Last night I had a dream of sorts and a colour scheme has started to take shape. It's a pity there isn't a site where you can play around with different colours on screen on a frame - or is there?

burriana

16,556 posts

254 months

Thursday 28th May 2015
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If it's a steel Bianchi, you know there is only one true colour option right? :-)


Dammit

3,790 posts

208 months

Thursday 28th May 2015
quotequote all
Powder coating is an industrial process, leaves a nice tough, thick finish- I've had a couple of frames done this way.

For a steel frame (lugged maybe?) it'll be way too thick and will obscure any nice details.

Get it done in 2K- modern "enamel" is crap and will chip when you look at it funny.

Expect to pay ~£300 for a decent job, plus cost of media blasting (do not shot blast a good frame- you'll kill it).

Call it £30 for blasting by someone who knows what they are doing and £150 to replace the seat tube, plus cost of the tube, which as we don't know what it is well guess another £150.

So we're at over £600 before we look at parts- what's the rear spacing, 126 or 130? Would you keep the period group or wish to upgrade?

tobinen

Original Poster:

9,222 posts

145 months

Thursday 28th May 2015
quotequote all
There will be Celeste included, especially as it's missing now.

village idiot

3,158 posts

267 months

Thursday 28th May 2015
quotequote all
i'm just in the process of rebuilding my old late 90's Battaglin. I bought it new and it's passed around the family before ending up back with me in a bit of a state.

annoyingly, the beautiful chrome columbus lugged fork has a few small holes where the chrome has pitted through and rust has taken hold. i am not minded to strip, fix and rechrome them, so it's time for a new fork.

as has already been pointed out on here, the cost of refinishing a frame can be very high and far outweigh ultimate value. i have had lots of good experiences with powdercoating using a company called trestan who are in southampton. they have done a number of frames for me in the past, so i took the battaglin frame to them, got them to mask off the chrome parts and then get to work. they stripped and then powdercoated the frame in RAL-6027 which as any petrol-head will know to the original gulf racing blue and any pedal-head to know is nigh-on identical to bianchi celeste. after powdercoating i popped back to apply the battaglin giro decals and trestan then completed the job with a very light sparkle laquer. trestan charged nicely under £50 for the job and the decals were about £25.

here is the frame as it stands today



i am now just awaiting the postman who should be delivering:-

Tifosi race carbon fork (i'm switching to 1" threadless from the original threaded configuration)
Tange Seiki polished 1" threadless headset
Fresh braze-on cable adjusters
Deda Piega compact bars
Xenith polished 110mm ahead stem (with steerer shim down to 1")
Deda cork ribbon in 'Celeste'
Selle Italia Q'Bik flow saddle in white
Campag Veloce polished silver groupset with white Hudz ergolever hoods
White cable outers
Campag Khamsin G3 ASY wheelset
Vittoria skinwall tyres

should be somewhat lighter than the original build and a very comfy ride. a nice synergy between 1990's and the present day

Matt_N

8,901 posts

202 months

Thursday 28th May 2015
quotequote all
Dammit said:
Powder coating is an industrial process, leaves a nice tough, thick finish- I've had a couple of frames done this way.

For a steel frame (lugged maybe?) it'll be way too thick and will obscure any nice details.

Get it done in 2K- modern "enamel" is crap and will chip when you look at it funny.

Expect to pay ~£300 for a decent job, plus cost of media blasting (do not shot blast a good frame- you'll kill it).

Call it £30 for blasting by someone who knows what they are doing and £150 to replace the seat tube, plus cost of the tube, which as we don't know what it is well guess another £150.

So we're at over £600 before we look at parts- what's the rear spacing, 126 or 130? Would you keep the period group or wish to upgrade?
The two lugged steel frames I took in for powder coating came out fine, no loss of detail.

Here's the fork crown as an example: