clipless pedal/shoes
Discussion
I use my MTB spds for commuting as they are a bit quicker to use than my road pedals. That said I only do 4-5 miles each way but it is on a 29er fixie MTB. For proper road rides I use road spds and space disco shoes. The only place I doubt use spds is rocky MTB rides, prefer sticky shoes and flat pedals so that the bike isn't attached in a crash.
Depends on how much you want to spend,
http://www.wiggle.co.uk/cycle/pedals/
I've only ever used the SPD's you will fall off a couple of times but when you get the hang of them you will never go back to flat pedals.
http://www.wiggle.co.uk/cycle/pedals/
I've only ever used the SPD's you will fall off a couple of times but when you get the hang of them you will never go back to flat pedals.
Edited by Black can man on Monday 29th June 23:03
Of the main pedal types, there's Speedplay and the rest. Dig a bit deeper and there's Keywin, Speedplay and the rest. Further still and there are some ultra lightweight esoteric types which look like little more than an axle, and there are some Crank Bros models which are a bit out there. But for an easy life, choose Shimano SPD SL or Looks.
If you get SPD SL or Look pedals then definitely invest in a pair of these http://www.cyclesurgery.com/pws/UniqueProductKey.i...
Really handy for if you need to walk about in cleats, keeps them nice and fresh for a lot longer. I use Look Keos on my road bike. Generally the more you spend the more weight you save but were only talking 50-75gram saving for nearly the same in £££'s so I'd go for pedals that are around £30-50. Shoes should be whatever fits best, try loads on at your local bike shop. Again the more you spend the lighter and stiffer they are, but since you're not a pro racer you'll not need £250+ carbon shoes. Most brands do a shoe that's around 70-100 that contains some kind of stiffening rod which is all most people ever need.
Really handy for if you need to walk about in cleats, keeps them nice and fresh for a lot longer. I use Look Keos on my road bike. Generally the more you spend the more weight you save but were only talking 50-75gram saving for nearly the same in £££'s so I'd go for pedals that are around £30-50. Shoes should be whatever fits best, try loads on at your local bike shop. Again the more you spend the lighter and stiffer they are, but since you're not a pro racer you'll not need £250+ carbon shoes. Most brands do a shoe that's around 70-100 that contains some kind of stiffening rod which is all most people ever need.
I prefer SPDs on my bikes as most of my cycling is commuting and I like being able to clip in both sides without having to look down. And be able to walk in and around the train station.
Because of that, I have a set of SPDs on my road bike too.
I don't do enough cycling on that to warrant getting a whole different system including new shoes.
I'm currently waiting for a Brompton to arrive and when it does, I'll be putting SPDs on that too.
Because of that, I have a set of SPDs on my road bike too.
I don't do enough cycling on that to warrant getting a whole different system including new shoes.
I'm currently waiting for a Brompton to arrive and when it does, I'll be putting SPDs on that too.
no pun intended, but yes, I did have a couple of comedy falls. Luckily both were on nice soft ground.I think if you intend to do loads of road cycling, then the road specific ones where the cleat sits prod of the sole of the shoe would be worth it.
For me, it's 99% commuting and I want to be able to walk properly, so I just got SPD ones which have recessed cleats so you can walk.
I've put pedals on mine that have the clips on one side, and flats on the other, so if I want to pop out and I'm wearing my trainers I don't need to change my shoes.
I'd recommend setting the tension spring quite loose to start with, so you can unclip nice and easily, then tighten it up as you get used to it. Also practice clipping in and unclipping a few times whilst leaning against a wall.
Get into the habit of unclipping one foot whenever you approach a junction or a light where you might have to stop. When that's second nature you will hopefully never fall off!
For me, it's 99% commuting and I want to be able to walk properly, so I just got SPD ones which have recessed cleats so you can walk.
I've put pedals on mine that have the clips on one side, and flats on the other, so if I want to pop out and I'm wearing my trainers I don't need to change my shoes.
I'd recommend setting the tension spring quite loose to start with, so you can unclip nice and easily, then tighten it up as you get used to it. Also practice clipping in and unclipping a few times whilst leaning against a wall.
Get into the habit of unclipping one foot whenever you approach a junction or a light where you might have to stop. When that's second nature you will hopefully never fall off!
Dick Turpin said:
Get into the habit of unclipping one foot whenever you approach a junction or a light where you might have to stop. When that's second nature you will hopefully never fall off!
From what I remember when I started, topples happen when the unclipping movement is not yet automatic and you suffer brain overload: you approach a junction, there's traffic, and there's a pedestrian, but the pedestrian isn't sure whether to cross or let you go, and you're not sure whether to go or let them cross, and then there's the traffic, and there's something behind you, but you're slowing down for the pedestrian... and suddenly you're not moving, but you've not remembered to unclip. Topple. A solution is to unclip a long time before you have to, even if you might not have to. At least to begin with.
Greg66 said:
From what I remember when I started, topples happen when the unclipping movement is not yet automatic and you suffer brain overload: you approach a junction, there's traffic, and there's a pedestrian, but the pedestrian isn't sure whether to cross or let you go, and you're not sure whether to go or let them cross, and then there's the traffic, and there's something behind you, but you're slowing down for the pedestrian... and suddenly you're not moving, but you've not remembered to unclip. Topple.
A solution is to unclip a long time before you have to, even if you might not have to. At least to begin with.
Yes, you're right.A solution is to unclip a long time before you have to, even if you might not have to. At least to begin with.
The only time I had a "clipless moment" was when I thought I could get away without stopping, but then a pedestrian crossing changed to red. Nothing more embarrassing than falling in a heap in front of people!
Dick Turpin said:
Greg66 said:
From what I remember when I started, topples happen when the unclipping movement is not yet automatic and you suffer brain overload: you approach a junction, there's traffic, and there's a pedestrian, but the pedestrian isn't sure whether to cross or let you go, and you're not sure whether to go or let them cross, and then there's the traffic, and there's something behind you, but you're slowing down for the pedestrian... and suddenly you're not moving, but you've not remembered to unclip. Topple.
A solution is to unclip a long time before you have to, even if you might not have to. At least to begin with.
Yes, you're right.A solution is to unclip a long time before you have to, even if you might not have to. At least to begin with.
The only time I had a "clipless moment" was when I thought I could get away without stopping, but then a pedestrian crossing changed to red. Nothing more embarrassing than falling in a heap in front of people!
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