Do I need a winter bike ?!
Discussion
I was all set for buying a turbo for winter two years ago ... instead I bought a winter bike. Rode every weekend throughout winter no matter what the weather ... you just can't ride on the roads around here 12 months of the year without guards ... loads of absolutely filthy country roads.
And as above, past October on wet days we expect people to ride with mudguards ... otherwise they have to ride at the back of the group ...
And as above, past October on wet days we expect people to ride with mudguards ... otherwise they have to ride at the back of the group ...
SixPotBelly said:
I'm in an uncannily similar man-maths induced boat. And thus also considering clip-on mudguards to fit a disk braked carbon Synapse (non HiMod in my case though). Initial investigations suggest the lack of a traditional brake bridge and disk calipers in places the clip-on mudguards' designers didn't envisage might both be hurdles...
I've just fitted these:SKS Race Blade Mudguard Set - Silver, X-Large https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B000BS0PNS/ref=cm_sw_r...
They have removable straps, or you can just cable tie them, but they only attach to the fork and higher up than a disc brake caliper will be?
AlfaFoxtrot said:
I've just fitted these:
SKS Race Blade Mudguard Set - Silver, X-Large https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B000BS0PNS/ref=cm_sw_r...
They have removable straps, or you can just cable tie them, but they only attach to the fork and higher up than a disc brake caliper will be?
Thanks, I'll look into those. Could be just the ticket.SKS Race Blade Mudguard Set - Silver, X-Large https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B000BS0PNS/ref=cm_sw_r...
They have removable straps, or you can just cable tie them, but they only attach to the fork and higher up than a disc brake caliper will be?
OP, if I try them before you do I'll let you know how I get on.
SixPotBelly said:
OP, if I try them before you do I'll let you know how I get on.
Fitted yesterday. The rear went more or less straight on with just a repositioning of the guard in the stays (it slides fore and aft) but the front needed *a lot* of stay bending as well. But they're on and they don't foul (when the bike's in the stand, at least). They don't even look too bad.
Yet to ride with them, which will be the acid test. The carbon Synapse fork tapers down towards the bottom, so there's a possibility that the stretchy-rubber attached mounts will gradually slide down the fork. But we'll soon see.
Hope this helps solve your dilema, OP. Thanks again to Alpha Foxtrot for suggesting them.
I'm coming round to the idea of a winter bike. I had an alu Ebay special for a couple of years which I rode year round, and I don't think the weather did it much damage. I do about 5,000 miles a year, and although the mileage and frequency drops in bad weather it doesn't stop altogether.
What is making me think about the winter bike is grip; I had two accidents on ice around February time; I got away with the first one but the second one broke a wrist and I just don't want to be off the bike that long again. So, it isn't just clearance for full guards for me, it is wider grippier tyres I want.
What is making me think about the winter bike is grip; I had two accidents on ice around February time; I got away with the first one but the second one broke a wrist and I just don't want to be off the bike that long again. So, it isn't just clearance for full guards for me, it is wider grippier tyres I want.
Indeed that's one of the main reasons I got a winter bike a few years back, my summer bike wasn't too special, but was a bit lively on greasy rural roads.
The winter bike I got had a longer more stable frame, with wider tyres and a bit more weight, it was so much more stable on decent descents, the wider cassette on the back meant I could stay seated on steep climbs, as the 39/25 on the summer bike meant out the saddle the wheel would spin
The winter bike I got had a longer more stable frame, with wider tyres and a bit more weight, it was so much more stable on decent descents, the wider cassette on the back meant I could stay seated on steep climbs, as the 39/25 on the summer bike meant out the saddle the wheel would spin
I've used my Scott CR1 (full carbon race bike), for commuting all year round from when I bought it seven years ago and it's withstood it very well indeed. I've never changed any components specifically for winter, just stuck some lights and mudguards on it (the latter are a bloody tight fit mind, even with 23mm tyres). Even running Ultegra, which a lot of people would say is madness for a winter bike, I'm sure it's still been cheaper than buying a second bike so I'm pretty sure a winter bike isn't justified on cost grounds alone. Having said that this is in fact now my dedicated commuting/winter bike since I've got a new 'best' one!
IroningMan said:
Race blades do a reasonable job, but to make the best of them you need to wrap the seat stays & forks with helicopter tape to protect them and then fit using cable ties rather than the rubber straps - all the better if you have one of those tools for tightening cable ties.
Im sure mine came with enough clear plastic wrap to make sure no damage is caused. After having my face & teeth disfigured by metal mudguards, I got a pair of these posted from Germany, really easy and simple to take off and put on when not needed :
http://www.hebie.de/en/protection/mudguards/racing...
You need a bit of clearance but nice non nonsense product on my winter bike
http://www.hebie.de/en/protection/mudguards/racing...
You need a bit of clearance but nice non nonsense product on my winter bike
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