Road bikes: What's your lowest gearing?
Poll: Road bikes: What's your lowest gearing?
Total Members Polled: 41
Discussion
42/21 on my Raleigh Dyna-Tech from 1990 back when cycling was a hard man's sport and not something fashionable after a bit of Team GB success at the Olympics. No such thing as compact or triple chainsets back then lad. 
Fine for south east England including the fearsome Ditchling Beacon but I don't think I'd want to take it to the Alps though.
Fine for south east England including the fearsome Ditchling Beacon but I don't think I'd want to take it to the Alps though.
neilski said:
42/21 on my Raleigh Dyna-Tech from 1990 back when cycling was a hard man's sport and not something fashionable after a bit of Team GB success at the Olympics. No such thing as compact or triple chainsets back then lad.
Fine for south east England including the fearsome Ditchling Beacon but I don't think I'd want to take it to the Alps though.
Crikey. That's the Real Deal. Nice bar tape too. Fine for south east England including the fearsome Ditchling Beacon but I don't think I'd want to take it to the Alps though.
JEA1K said:
Summer/race bike 36/25 and winter/training bike 36/28 .... helps with the extra weight of clothing and 'winter coat'.
Tempted to get a pro-compact for next season on the summer bike as a compromise ... couple of v windy races saw me running out of top end gearing, on the flat.
I thought that a 52/36 chainset was a "pro-compact"?Tempted to get a pro-compact for next season on the summer bike as a compromise ... couple of v windy races saw me running out of top end gearing, on the flat.
I'm considering swapping to one (Ultegra 6800 - I can just swap the rings right?) from my current 'Compact' as I'm doing OK on a 53/39 on my winter bike.
Anyone clarify?
53/39 = "Standard"
52/36 = "Pro Compact"
50/34 = "Compact"
...anything with three front rings is just a "Triple" to me because I've never had such gearing on my road bikes, and therefore don't know if there are such things as "standard" or "compact" triples. Anything with bigger than a 53/39 is "stuff wot only Time Trialists would use".
As I've said before, in 1997 I bought this...
53/39 x 13-23t
Which now looks like this...
53/39 x 11-28t
So I ended up with a "standard" chainset because that was what was fitted to the bike. Then in 2010 I bought a new bike, with 50/34 x 11-25t, and this year another bike (Trek Émonda) with 50/34 x 11-28t.
As ever, it was just what was fitted as standard. I'm grateful for the 34 x 28t gear on the steeper Surrey Hills stuff, but believe I could do OK with a slightly higher bail-out gear, as I'm getting by with the current 53 x 28. Hence me considering going up to a 52/36 chainset on the Émonda for next year.
So the correct term for a 52/36 chainset is "Semi Compact" (or "Faux Pro" 
)
http://roadcyclinguk.com/gear/evolution-chainset-r...
)http://roadcyclinguk.com/gear/evolution-chainset-r...
RCUK article said:
Pro perspective
As for the pros, Lars Teutenberg, technical adviser to Orica-GreenEDGE, came up with an interesting slice of inside information.
“Our riders usually use 53-39t, but on really steep hills they’ve used 53-36t or even 52-34t. Although this isn’t standard practice for Shimano combinations as front mechs usually don’t work well when there’s a spread of 16 teeth or more, we’ve made them work just fine,” says Teutenberg. That’ll be the magic touch of pro mechanics, then. Teutenberg adds this is often complemented by an 11-25t cassette at the back, or an 11-28t cassette for a hilly day in the saddle.
Regardless of what perspective you look at it from, be it as a rider, component manufacturer, bike brand or the pro peloton, the chainset has evolved significantly in a short space of time. While the standard double remains the setup of choice for racing cyclists, the introduction of the compact chainset and wide-ranging cassette ratios revolutionised gearing for the sportive set – and now the semi-compact bridges the gap, giving riders three widely-adopted and, in many cases, inter-changeable options to satisfy most demands. Maybe the ‘standard’ chainset isn’t so standard after all.
..and contrary to the belief of some doubters, even the professional riders sometimes reach for a 34 x 28t gear "for a hilly day in the saddle". As for the pros, Lars Teutenberg, technical adviser to Orica-GreenEDGE, came up with an interesting slice of inside information.
“Our riders usually use 53-39t, but on really steep hills they’ve used 53-36t or even 52-34t. Although this isn’t standard practice for Shimano combinations as front mechs usually don’t work well when there’s a spread of 16 teeth or more, we’ve made them work just fine,” says Teutenberg. That’ll be the magic touch of pro mechanics, then. Teutenberg adds this is often complemented by an 11-25t cassette at the back, or an 11-28t cassette for a hilly day in the saddle.
Regardless of what perspective you look at it from, be it as a rider, component manufacturer, bike brand or the pro peloton, the chainset has evolved significantly in a short space of time. While the standard double remains the setup of choice for racing cyclists, the introduction of the compact chainset and wide-ranging cassette ratios revolutionised gearing for the sportive set – and now the semi-compact bridges the gap, giving riders three widely-adopted and, in many cases, inter-changeable options to satisfy most demands. Maybe the ‘standard’ chainset isn’t so standard after all.
The roadie is Compact 11-28 on a 10 speed, so does have some gaps.
It's lumpy round here though, so I'm normally quite glad of it, although if I can scrape the dosh together, I'd love a Canyon CF SLX on Pro-Compact 11-28 on an 11 speed. (I hope the increased power transmission over the fairly bendy Al bike would mean I would be fine.)
It's lumpy round here though, so I'm normally quite glad of it, although if I can scrape the dosh together, I'd love a Canyon CF SLX on Pro-Compact 11-28 on an 11 speed. (I hope the increased power transmission over the fairly bendy Al bike would mean I would be fine.)
yellowjack said:
I thought that a 52/36 chainset was a "pro-compact"?
I'm considering swapping to one (Ultegra 6800 - I can just swap the rings right?) from my current 'Compact' as I'm doing OK on a 53/39 on my winter bike.
Anyone clarify?
53/39 = "Standard"
52/36 = "Pro Compact"
50/34 = "Compact"
My bad, substitute 36 with 34 which is what I run currently.I'm considering swapping to one (Ultegra 6800 - I can just swap the rings right?) from my current 'Compact' as I'm doing OK on a 53/39 on my winter bike.
Anyone clarify?
53/39 = "Standard"
52/36 = "Pro Compact"
50/34 = "Compact"
You're correct, pro-compact is 36.
OP, I currently have the same set up as you, and find it good for the Sussex and Surrey Hills. I don't think Neilski's 90's special would be a lot of fun up Ditchling though!
My old bike had a standard 53-39 Campag Crankset and 12-25 when I bought it. When I was out with mates who were generally of similar ability, the biggest problem I had was on longer steep hills. I could always get up them, but I'd be up out of the saddle, hauling on the bars, barely moving, and the guys on compacts would sit and spin and gradually ease away from me. When that chain and cassette wore out, I went for a 12-27, and the problem lessened, and when that wore out, the 12-29 went on, and again it was better.
With the 52-26, you may be able to fit a 34 tooth chain ring, but I don't know if you'll be able to change gear or if you can how it will feel or how it will last. The cheapest option is to fit a bigger cassette, but riding more hills will eventually make a difference.
My old bike had a standard 53-39 Campag Crankset and 12-25 when I bought it. When I was out with mates who were generally of similar ability, the biggest problem I had was on longer steep hills. I could always get up them, but I'd be up out of the saddle, hauling on the bars, barely moving, and the guys on compacts would sit and spin and gradually ease away from me. When that chain and cassette wore out, I went for a 12-27, and the problem lessened, and when that wore out, the 12-29 went on, and again it was better.
With the 52-26, you may be able to fit a 34 tooth chain ring, but I don't know if you'll be able to change gear or if you can how it will feel or how it will last. The cheapest option is to fit a bigger cassette, but riding more hills will eventually make a difference.
50/34 and 11/28 on both winter and summer bikes, but a typical ride round here is 1000ft per 10 mile. It's hilly in the peaks.
I'm tempted to go semi compact on my summer bike next year though.
Not a 53/39 on the nice bike, after winging at my bike fit yesterday, they said "We've got a 6800 chainset in if you want to swap?"
I'm tempted to go semi compact on my summer bike next year though.
Not a 53/39 on the nice bike, after winging at my bike fit yesterday, they said "We've got a 6800 chainset in if you want to swap?"
Edited by lukefreeman on Friday 4th December 12:47
In the UK Semi Compact with a 11-28, if I am going climbing up mountains I will stick a 11-32 on the back. Partially and fully ruptured MPFL and ACL make it a sensible choice.
Which is nice when tackling stuff like this.
https://www.strava.com/segments/6871549
Which is nice when tackling stuff like this.
https://www.strava.com/segments/6871549
LOL at pro-compact. Last I heard it was mid-compact; truth is the 'pro's' will run whatever gearing they need, only in willy measuring contests (and perhaps marketing blurb) do people care about how 'pro' their setup is 
Kinda depends in my case: TT bike 53/39, 12-25. If it's too steep for that, roadbike. If I'm spinning out, have a rest.
Road bike 53/39 (tbh I swap the cranks between the TT and road on a fairly regular basis 'cos they have the vectors on them and it's easier to swap cranks than pedals) Rear 11-28. But I do keep a compact (50/34) lying around and stick that in if I'm heading for the alps/somewhere notably hilly. I'd probably stick in the compact for whitedown for instance, except I rarely ride it and generally can't be bothered with moving the pedals and just suck it up.
Physiologically it's a hell of a lot better to spin up in a low gear seated than to grind, especially when that lets you avoid a massive surge of power. Smaller/lighter you are the more effective the standing approach (and vice versa). Maybe worth stomping out very short ramps, but anything over a minute I'm seated - slower up the hill, faster round the ride.
Kinda depends in my case: TT bike 53/39, 12-25. If it's too steep for that, roadbike. If I'm spinning out, have a rest.
Road bike 53/39 (tbh I swap the cranks between the TT and road on a fairly regular basis 'cos they have the vectors on them and it's easier to swap cranks than pedals) Rear 11-28. But I do keep a compact (50/34) lying around and stick that in if I'm heading for the alps/somewhere notably hilly. I'd probably stick in the compact for whitedown for instance, except I rarely ride it and generally can't be bothered with moving the pedals and just suck it up.
Physiologically it's a hell of a lot better to spin up in a low gear seated than to grind, especially when that lets you avoid a massive surge of power. Smaller/lighter you are the more effective the standing approach (and vice versa). Maybe worth stomping out very short ramps, but anything over a minute I'm seated - slower up the hill, faster round the ride.
upsidedownmark said:
LOL at pro-compact. Last I heard it was mid-compact; truth is the 'pro's' will run whatever gearing they need, only in willy measuring contests (and perhaps marketing blurb) do people care about how 'pro' their setup is
Kinda depends in my case: TT bike 53/39, 12-25. If it's too steep for that, roadbike. If I'm spinning out, have a rest.
Road bike 53/39 (tbh I swap the cranks between the TT and road on a fairly regular basis 'cos they have the vectors on them and it's easier to swap cranks than pedals) Rear 11-28. But I do keep a compact (50/34) lying around and stick that in if I'm heading for the alps/somewhere notably hilly. I'd probably stick in the compact for whitedown for instance, except I rarely ride it and generally can't be bothered with moving the pedals and just suck it up.
Physiologically it's a hell of a lot better to spin up in a low gear seated than to grind, especially when that lets you avoid a massive surge of power. Smaller/lighter you are the more effective the standing approach (and vice versa). Maybe worth stomping out very short ramps, but anything over a minute I'm seated - slower up the hill, faster round the ride.
Avg MaxKinda depends in my case: TT bike 53/39, 12-25. If it's too steep for that, roadbike. If I'm spinning out, have a rest.
Road bike 53/39 (tbh I swap the cranks between the TT and road on a fairly regular basis 'cos they have the vectors on them and it's easier to swap cranks than pedals) Rear 11-28. But I do keep a compact (50/34) lying around and stick that in if I'm heading for the alps/somewhere notably hilly. I'd probably stick in the compact for whitedown for instance, except I rarely ride it and generally can't be bothered with moving the pedals and just suck it up.
Physiologically it's a hell of a lot better to spin up in a low gear seated than to grind, especially when that lets you avoid a massive surge of power. Smaller/lighter you are the more effective the standing approach (and vice versa). Maybe worth stomping out very short ramps, but anything over a minute I'm seated - slower up the hill, faster round the ride.
Speed 8.7mi/h 19.7mi/h
Cadence 79 116
Heart Rate
Power 428W 620 W
That was for Whitedown (around 3.30 mins) - so you could argue that really I should ride it with a smaller gear then 39-25 for that, was pushing up there and still sub 80 cadence.
There is a lot of macho rubbish with gearing I think, you ride the gears you need depending on how fit you are and where you live.
yellowjack said:
..and contrary to the belief of some doubters, even the professional riders sometimes reach for a 34 x 28t gear "for a hilly day in the saddle".
Their "hilly day in the saddle" differs in both speed, duration and frequency from the "hilly day in the saddle" of your once-or-twice-a-year sportive chopper...0.94... 
34/50 chainring, 11-speed 11-32 on the back. Does me fine for living in the Lake District (and riding across the edge of it when I cycle to work).
To be honest I don't use the 32 on the back that often, rarely that I go below the 25 at the moment (as that was as low as the old bike went).
34/50 chainring, 11-speed 11-32 on the back. Does me fine for living in the Lake District (and riding across the edge of it when I cycle to work).
To be honest I don't use the 32 on the back that often, rarely that I go below the 25 at the moment (as that was as low as the old bike went).
53/39 and 12-25, 12-27 or 12-30.
Mostly 12-27, although now I've added a couple of links to the chain the 12-30 works fine and I can get away with crossing the chain by accident; I don't climb very well at low cadences, though, so should really go for a compact or semi-compact chainset.
Mostly 12-27, although now I've added a couple of links to the chain the 12-30 works fine and I can get away with crossing the chain by accident; I don't climb very well at low cadences, though, so should really go for a compact or semi-compact chainset.
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