Cyclocross bike - 3k?

Author
Discussion

BigJonMcQuimm

Original Poster:

975 posts

213 months

Friday 27th May 2016
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jamiebae said:
What chainset is that? Looks like a 46/36 cross one?
I am not sure - it is not on the bike details!

Guess I will find out.

Out of interest - is that unusual?

Bah... still not Wednesday ;-)

anonymous-user

55 months

Friday 27th May 2016
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It is 46/36 its not unusual for a cx bike as the courses are usually quite tight and lumpy and you will never be spinning fast enough to need a 50t chainring, likewise its not hilly enough for you to need anything lower than a 36t and if it is, you'd be off the bike and carrying it in a race.

You may find it a little under geared for road work but 46/11 or 46/12 would still see you hit good top speeds without spinning like a hamster.

jamiebae

6,245 posts

212 months

Friday 27th May 2016
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BigJonMcQuimm said:
I am not sure - it is not on the bike details!

Guess I will find out.

Out of interest - is that unusual?

Bah... still not Wednesday ;-)
Specs say it's a 46/36, with an 11-28 cassette.

Personally I'd ask the shop to swap it for a compact or semi compact (50/34 or 52/36) depending on your fitness, for me a 46 is too small to run as a big ring on the road unless you're riding a cargo bike or something.

It's normal for CX but you'd never find it on a bike designed for road use.

Kermit power

28,663 posts

214 months

Friday 27th May 2016
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ecsrobin said:
BigJonMcQuimm said:
After much deliberation I have heeded advise, reigned in the budget and gone for the Ktm Canic CXC



A snip over £1800.

Di2 compatible. I am sure I will fall back in love with cycling on this machine.

Roll on Wednesday !
That's a lovely looking bike.
It is indeed, but given the OP's original statement that its prime use would be for a daily 30 mile each way commute, my first question would be "does it take mudguards"? Possibly something to regret in the middle of winter if it doesn't!

counterofbeans

1,061 posts

140 months

Friday 27th May 2016
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Kermit power said:
It is indeed, but given the OP's original statement that its prime use would be for a daily 30 mile each way commute, my first question would be "does it take mudguards"? Possibly something to regret in the middle of winter if it doesn't!
You can get full mudguards on a cross bike simply using p-clips and zip ties.

battered

4,088 posts

148 months

Friday 27th May 2016
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I didn't know KTM made bikes of the non motorised variety. That looks great. Great colour scheme. I have an old Kona MTB that I had powder coated in ASBO Orange with a metallic lacquer, it's a great colour but obviously without transfers or other paint it doesn't look as flash.

yellowjack

17,080 posts

167 months

Saturday 28th May 2016
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battered said:
I didn't know KTM made bikes of the non motorised variety. That looks great. Great colour scheme. I have an old Kona MTB that I had powder coated in ASBO Orange with a metallic lacquer, it's a great colour but obviously without transfers or other paint it doesn't look as flash.
Whilst I knew they made bicycles, I didn't know they made anything other than mountain bikes. Some really nice KTM MTBs in a little independent shop called Spokes & Spanners in North Camp, Farnborough.

Barchettaman

6,314 posts

133 months

Monday 30th May 2016
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jamiebae said:
Specs say it's a 46/36, with an 11-28 cassette.

Personally I'd ask the shop to swap it for a compact or semi compact (50/34 or 52/36) depending on your fitness, for me a 46 is too small to run as a big ring on the road unless you're riding a cargo bike or something.

It's normal for CX but you'd never find it on a bike designed for road use.
Jamie, I would disagree with the need to swap it out.

46/11 is the same as 50/12, he's not going to be spinning it out on a regular basis, particularly with CX tyres.
The 10 tooth gap between chainrings makes for a more user friendly jump as opposed to a 50/34.

46/36 makes a LOT of sense for a bike that isn't going to see a huge amount of fast group riding!

Having said that, I'd swap in a dynamo hub and some decent LED lights for a 30-mile round trip commute sharpish. It's easy to underestimate the benefit of the LEDs being on as daytime running lights, too.

BigJonMcQuimm

Original Poster:

975 posts

213 months

Wednesday 1st June 2016
quotequote all
Finally it is here and built (took way longer than planned as I could not find a piece for the seat post lock) :-







I have a pair of ultegra 6800 pedals coming. Any recommendation on shoes?

For now I have put a spare pair of spds on.

thanks

Edit : Fitting the straight thru wheels. Do I need to grease anything? I have not seen such a setup before!

Edited by BigJonMcQuimm on Wednesday 1st June 20:07

bakerstreet

4,763 posts

166 months

Thursday 2nd June 2016
quotequote all
BigJonMcQuimm said:
Finally it is here and built (took way longer than planned as I could not find a piece for the seat post lock) :-

I have a pair of ultegra 6800 pedals coming. Any recommendation on shoes?

For now I have put a spare pair of spds on.

thanks

Edit : Fitting the straight thru wheels. Do I need to grease anything? I have not seen such a setup before!

Edited by BigJonMcQuimm on Wednesday 1st June 20:07
If you are commuting, I personally would keep the MTB spds. If you want flash ones, you can get Shimano XTs, which are about £45 new.

Shoes. Go to a bike shop and buy what ever is comfortable. For commuting, I would buy MTB shoes to go with SPD pedals. Means you can walk and they will keep you a bit warmer compared to standard road shoes. I have Shimano MO88s (MTB) and RO77s (Road). Both fit my feet fine, but may not be comfortable for you. I tried buyinng shoes online and it was a bit of a pain and sent no less than three pairs back. Ended up paying more and buying from Evans.

Have you commuted by bike before? You don't necessarily buy things for speed. More for convenience.

BigJonMcQuimm

Original Poster:

975 posts

213 months

Thursday 2nd June 2016
quotequote all
bakerstreet said:
If you are commuting, I personally would keep the MTB spds. If you want flash ones, you can get Shimano XTs, which are about £45 new.

Shoes. Go to a bike shop and buy what ever is comfortable. For commuting, I would buy MTB shoes to go with SPD pedals. Means you can walk and they will keep you a bit warmer compared to standard road shoes. I have Shimano MO88s (MTB) and RO77s (Road). Both fit my feet fine, but may not be comfortable for you. I tried buyinng shoes online and it was a bit of a pain and sent no less than three pairs back. Ended up paying more and buying from Evans.

Have you commuted by bike before? You don't necessarily buy things for speed. More for convenience.
Many thanks for your thoughts.

The only reason I was considering swapping the pedal and shoe combination is due to my dodgy knees. (Bad tracking :-( )

I have just come in from a hack around Richmond Park and back (15 miles) - and sure enough, like the 29er, my knees are sore.

I was, mostly likely, wrongly under the impression that it was float that I needed to resolve this. As such I was looking at the yellow 9 degree cleats.

I am doing a test ride to work on Saturday, and again Sunday to see how I fare on consecutive days. Round trip is only 25 miles.

I work from home one/two days a week, so most likely will only commute 3-4 times a week.

I have not commuted since my late teens and early 20's...... some 20 years ago :-( .

Equipment wise I know I am light. Currently I only have cycling shorts :-)

Is there a must-have list of stuff to take on a daily commute?

I really need to learn the new bike - I have never seen a tubular - so better get up to speed pronto - punctures always plague me!

Fitness wise, I am very fit, twice a day gym loon, so I hope that will count for something!

Still trying to determine if the bolt thru spindle needs greasing or not - any ideas anyone?

The bike shop advised to wax the frame before use - is this necessary and what would you use? I see Evans has a bottle of bike wax for ± £15.

thanks

BJM


bakerstreet

4,763 posts

166 months

Friday 3rd June 2016
quotequote all
BigJonMcQuimm said:
Many thanks for your thoughts.

The only reason I was considering swapping the pedal and shoe combination is due to my dodgy knees. (Bad tracking :-( )

I have just come in from a hack around Richmond Park and back (15 miles) - and sure enough, like the 29er, my knees are sore.

I was, mostly likely, wrongly under the impression that it was float that I needed to resolve this. As such I was looking at the yellow 9 degree cleats.

I am doing a test ride to work on Saturday, and again Sunday to see how I fare on consecutive days. Round trip is only 25 miles.

I work from home one/two days a week, so most likely will only commute 3-4 times a week.

I have not commuted since my late teens and early 20's...... some 20 years ago :-( .

Equipment wise I know I am light. Currently I only have cycling shorts :-)

Is there a must-have list of stuff to take on a daily commute?

I really need to learn the new bike - I have never seen a tubular - so better get up to speed pronto - punctures always plague me!

Fitness wise, I am very fit, twice a day gym loon, so I hope that will count for something!

Still trying to determine if the bolt thru spindle needs greasing or not - any ideas anyone?

The bike shop advised to wax the frame before use - is this necessary and what would you use? I see Evans has a bottle of bike wax for ± £15.

thanks

BJM
I would say SPDs probably have more float than the yellow SPD-SL road cleats.

Ive done a variety of bike commutes over the years (7 miles, 17 miles and now 8 miles with train journeys in between)

The fitness will certainly help. However, being organised is actually just as critical.

Are you going to shower at work (At that distance, you should be). If yes, I would advise keeping clothes, towel and wash bag at work. It means you can cycle lighter and not worry about having to pack bags every day and worry about them getting creased on the journey in. I bought a locker for this exact purpose (Keeps everything in one place and its neat)

Make sure the bike is prepped the night before. I put my water bottle on the bike, as well as the computer and the lights (Subject to season). Check the tyres the night before. I gave up checking pressure. Just give them a prod with my thumb.

Keep your bike kit in the same place every day. Keep the shoes by the bike. Wondering around in bike shoes is hardly graceful.

Be origanised for your arrival at your office. I beat numerous people to the shower, because I keep my keys in the same pocket along with my building pass. I leave other people fumbling round numerous pockets and bags.

Keep spare cycling gear at work. I learned that hanging cycling gear round the office isn't socially acceptable. You need spare gear in case you get soaked in the morning ride and you can't find somewhere to dry it.

All this may seem like I'm telling you to suck eggs, but it all makes a lot fo difference and with out doing the above, then you may stop commuting quite quickly.

Know where the bike shops are on your commute and near where you work. There will be times where you don't want to fix that puncture or adjust the brakes.

I carry the following:
Multi Tool
Tyre levers
cable ties
Quick Patch
two tubes
2 c02 cannisters and Ultimate innovations infaltor (Best I've used)
Mini pump
Keep that on the bike in a saddle bag and replace as soon as you loose/use anything from the bag. Mini pump might have to go in a pocket.

If you are commuting in the dark, then carry spare lights or spare batteries. I personally recommend spare lights running the same mounts as you can just swap over rather than fiddling about changing batteries (I speak from experience)

Best of luck with the commute. The money saved has always been a big plus for me smile



numtumfutunch

4,728 posts

139 months

Friday 3rd June 2016
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^^^^^ what he said but I have my main lights helmet mounted, exposure joystick and small rear flasher, so I never worry about putting lights on or off the bike

The bike has cheap decathlon flashers front and rear mounted permanently, I'd be cross if they got nicked but it's not disastrous

In summer and spring I wouldn't use them for months and have unexpectedly had to return home late in darkness after finding them flat, for whatever reason I don't ignore the upkeep of my helmet lights

The joystick is superb in City traffic on strobe and also functions as a main light out of town, it's ££££ but one of my best purchases

I run a similar spares and kit list in a quick release saddle bag