Dura Ace R9100

Author
Discussion

Kell

1,708 posts

208 months

Thursday 30th June 2016
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I guess part of the beauty of a system like this is that even if you're a massive geek you're unlikely to know the next ratio up or down - especially if it means a double shift.

This is fine for casual cycling, you make the shift, realise it wasn't quite what you thought and adjust again.

But I guess in racing, where microseconds count if could win or lose races.

Plus, you don't want to shift into too high a gear and burn out the electric motor hidden in your seat tube. biggrin

Sandersports

181 posts

189 months

Thursday 30th June 2016
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End of the race & your sprinting uphill in a bunch Sprint in say 53x15 flat stick pushing 700w+ and you decide to move up a sprocket as the last 30 meters squeeze a touch steeper and the lactic builds ...... You gotta question is it a good time for the drive chain to shift multiple sprockets & drop onto the inside ring . Di2 is as good as shifting gets but can it handle that !

upsidedownmark

2,120 posts

135 months

Thursday 30th June 2016
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Can't tell if there are two so you can go manual, but I rather suspect there are - and for that kind of scenario the 'semi sync' mode would make sense.. just compensating the rear when you move the front. I also read that the sync pattern is programmable (now supports bluetooth, so from your phone I guess...)

I agree, personally I wouldn't want the front shifting of it's own volition - maybe I'm a luddite, but I firmly believe in not moving the front under load, asking for a nutting.

HardtopManual

2,430 posts

166 months

Thursday 30th June 2016
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Matt_N said:
They changed cable pull ratios with the move to 4700, 5800, 6800 and 9000 so I can't see them doing again for 9100?
Thing is, 9100 has a shadow rear mech - when MTB groups moved over to shadow rear mechs, the cable pull changed.

Raven Flyer

1,642 posts

224 months

Friday 1st July 2016
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ALawson said:
Almost like these big race boats, the course is put into a computer which then based upon all sail combinations and wind direction will basically tell you what sails to use, course to sail and when to change direction. You just need to be able to steer the boat and trim the sails properly! Assuming you trust the computer.
We've done better without following Expedition/Tide Tech than we have with it.

I've always used my Di2 in 'paddle shift' format. It makes much more sense and if you have '3 cogs' set for press and hold, you get pretty good transitions on chain ring swaps, when changing both cogsets at the same time. Just press and hold both controls, which is easy on the brain than hold one and tap the other. You can do this without lifting off.

Edited by Raven Flyer on Friday 1st July 16:24