Discussion
FD3Si said:
Best in mind the SRAM stuff you're basing is low end. Low end Shimano isn't that great either. Guides, for instance, are streets ahead. I really like my RSCs, I'd take them over XTs with their random bite point technology any day of the week.
I've not tried the higher end SRAM stuff, but those Level T's (I've no idea where they sit in the range) are not a patch on the low end Shimano M506's (amazing brakes for the price). But they do work, which I guess is the main consideration! AndyWoodall said:
jshell said:
I really liked my Whyte 901.
Since upgrading all the SRAM/Avid shyte to Shimano (bar the forks) - I fecking LOVE my XL 901!
Yeah I'm just waiting to clip the mech on something so I can have a bit of an excuse to bin the lot. The drivetrain is though, perfectly fine, it just feels cheap and nasty. I'm 900 miles in though and nothing that end has faltered so I guess I can't complain. Since upgrading all the SRAM/Avid shyte to Shimano (bar the forks) - I fecking LOVE my XL 901!
The brakes however are not SRAM's finest hour. They worked well at first but have really dropped off, also the lever feel is ghastly. Basic, non-series branched Shimano is far far superior.
I like the RS Recon forks and the Whyte 901 saddle is the comfiest I have ever used!
I appreciate the assistance guys. I've never had sram before and the only experience I've had with Whyte is on the recent demo day. I took the 901 that they had out twice, so about 40 minutes and the brakes and gears felt pretty good to me, certainly no worse than the other bikes that I tried during the day. I'm new to proper mountain biking so I have nothing really to compare it against, I think I might have to order one and see how I get on.
Bungleaio said:
I appreciate the assistance guys. I've never had sram before and the only experience I've had with Whyte is on the recent demo day. I took the 901 that they had out twice, so about 40 minutes and the brakes and gears felt pretty good to me, certainly no worse than the other bikes that I tried during the day. I'm new to proper mountain biking so I have nothing really to compare it against, I think I might have to order one and see how I get on.
It'll be fine, the GX is solid enough for the time being.Enjoy! Been to Llandegla on mine today rather than the full suss and it was a hoot.
Bill said:
What are they like for climbing? The only criticism I've found is the geometry mailing the front light.
(I'm eyeing up the 801 but the geometry is similar...)
Coming from a Kona Process full suss (not the best climber, but certainly not the worst, its just a bit of a plodder), the 905 is a whippet. (I'm eyeing up the 801 but the geometry is similar...)
Its no long stem xc bike, but I'm faster on it in every way compared to my older 29er Kona hard tail (st coil forks, heavy wheels) up hills.
For competition there is probably something in the fact that its more gravity/trail orientated than hardcore whipping up climbs style, but for general trail riding its a happy balance. Given the amount of people I seem to see at trail centres riding massive frames with tent pole stems, bar ends and 500mm bars then I think most people wouldn't be so bad selecting more relaxed, fun bikes than climbing frames where it looks like they are going to pitch off at any minute. But that's just me.
For what its worth, I was keeping pace with a friend on his 160mm enduro bike around Llandegla on Sunday without taking any risks or going out of my comfort zone, not scientific at all, but he mentioned it not me so worth saying. Now Llandegla is pretty smooth, well maintained and has nothing hairy, so perhaps at a more techie location I wouldn't have kept up. So far though I think the 901/905 has a very flattering set up which means it turns a surprising pace. I absolutely love it.
Their entry full suss bikes, the T-130 and the like, must be totally unstoppable. I'm not sure now why I paid over the odds for the Kona Process when they Whyte stuff is cheaper, better and lighter (The Process is fun though, and I love it).
It looks good, although the chain may be a bit long.
I like Continental X Kings (Protection version), but I'm sure others will be along with recommendations. It is well worth going tubeless, although it can be a pain in the arse to set up. Even if you are set up tubeless it is still worth taking spare tubes on a ride, as the sealant can only seal small holes. A tube and tyre boot could save you from a long walk.
I like Continental X Kings (Protection version), but I'm sure others will be along with recommendations. It is well worth going tubeless, although it can be a pain in the arse to set up. Even if you are set up tubeless it is still worth taking spare tubes on a ride, as the sealant can only seal small holes. A tube and tyre boot could save you from a long walk.
Tyres?
For winter slop I used to use Maxxis Beaver. They were pretty good. This time round, because of poor availability of the Beavers when I needed them, I've stuck some Schwalbe Nobby Nic on. They're probably a bit too aggressive though - heaps of confidence and grip, but they really get 'held' in the loose stuff. You can feel your speed being absorbed by the trail surface so it needs more effort to maintain speed.
Whatever you choose, you should consider putting your most aggressive, grippy tyre onto the front. You can afford to have your rear wheel slip sideways on a wet root and actually enjoy the 'tail out' feeling, but if that happens to the front tyre you can swiftly end up on your face in the mud.
For winter slop I used to use Maxxis Beaver. They were pretty good. This time round, because of poor availability of the Beavers when I needed them, I've stuck some Schwalbe Nobby Nic on. They're probably a bit too aggressive though - heaps of confidence and grip, but they really get 'held' in the loose stuff. You can feel your speed being absorbed by the trail surface so it needs more effort to maintain speed.
Whatever you choose, you should consider putting your most aggressive, grippy tyre onto the front. You can afford to have your rear wheel slip sideways on a wet root and actually enjoy the 'tail out' feeling, but if that happens to the front tyre you can swiftly end up on your face in the mud.
Excellent, enjoy!
I wouldn't think twice about going tubeless, just do it, rims and tyres are all ready to go. But carry tubes obviously.
As for replacement tyres, I haven't decided yet, but I run Maxxis High Roller II's on the full suss. I'm tempted to try them on this when these things die or I get sick of them. I used to run High Roller II and Ardent rear which was a bit faster rolling.
I wouldn't think twice about going tubeless, just do it, rims and tyres are all ready to go. But carry tubes obviously.
As for replacement tyres, I haven't decided yet, but I run Maxxis High Roller II's on the full suss. I'm tempted to try them on this when these things die or I get sick of them. I used to run High Roller II and Ardent rear which was a bit faster rolling.
It's worth noting that Whyte insist that any retailer sells the bikes directly to the customer, they don't allow postage. Luckily I was less than an hour from where I bought mine from but it's worth knowing if anyone sees a bargain but it's miles away.
I've still not ridden my bike but I have ordered new tyres for it along with the necessary gubbins to go tubeless. I've gone for Hans damph and nobby nics.
A mate has managed to source a second hand saris bones bike rack for me so I'll soon be able to get it dirty!
I've still not ridden my bike but I have ordered new tyres for it along with the necessary gubbins to go tubeless. I've gone for Hans damph and nobby nics.
A mate has managed to source a second hand saris bones bike rack for me so I'll soon be able to get it dirty!
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