Home wheel builds, worth it not not?

[Kermit power]

Celtic Dragon said:

Just going by my current Hope wheels, but I am a rookie at this so they could be 3 cross.

It's easy to check. Pick a spoke, and then count how many other spokes it crosses over or under between the hub and the rim, and that'll tell you what number you're looking at. Most people tend to go for 3 cross, but it's not obligatory.

[Celtic Dragon]

Just rechecked and there are 2 crosses, in the space between the hub and the rim. Then another "cross" in the hub itself, where the spoke followed goes to the inside of the flange (the spoke is fed through from the outside), and the crossing spoke goes from the flange hole in front on the outside of the hub.

If that makes sense.

[Kermit power]

Celtic Dragon said:

Just rechecked and there are 2 crosses, in the space between the hub and the rim. Then another "cross" in the hub itself, where the spoke followed goes to the inside of the flange (the spoke is fed through from the outside), and the crossing spoke goes from the flange hole in front on the outside of the hub.

If that makes sense.

That sounds like 3 cross. The third crossing point might be right by the flange of the hub, but it's still crossing three other spokes before it reaches the rim?

[Celtic Dragon]

A picture says a thousand words, if you follow the spoke from the top right down, you'll get to 2 crosses. Hopefully you'll be able to see the hub one I'm talking about

Edited by Celtic Dragon on Friday 28th October 22:08

[timnoyce]

Sounds like 3X. Over, over, under.

[Kermit power]

Celtic Dragon said:

A picture says a thousand words, if you follow the spoke from the top right down, you'll get to 2 crosses. Hopefully you'll be able to see the hub one I'm talking about

Hopefully, getting the image tags right says even more?

[Celtic Dragon]

Ok, tablet interface malfunctions

[JustinF]

timnoyce said:

Got this one built last night. I'd forgotten how much I enjoy building them actually so if my comments before sounded a little negative, then perhaps give it a go as it's very much a pleasant way to spend an evening!

built one of these rims with a dynamo hub (front obvs) as my first ever wheel build earlier this year, was immensely satisfying doing it and then riding it for 9 days in the Alps.

Didn't need a stand, just a good dose of research and i used my fingernail in lieu of proper equipment.

Spent £12 in the LBS to true it just for peace of mind and they said it needed just a minor tweak.

[Fastpedeller]

It's simple to make a wheel building jig out of wood, or if you have a welder some angle iron. Another tool worth having (again easily made) is a dishing stick.

[Bobley]

Having to keep my son racing whilst living in the sticks means its a PITA getting to a LBS to straighten wheels so I bought the Planet X jig in the sales for £70 and pretty soon after I bought the Park Tool tension gauge (yeah okay it's not cheap but it's very good).

I managed to straighten a wobbly wheel within minutes of taking the jig out of the box and since then I've built every wheel we've raced in the last 2 years. I've saved a fortune on parts as I buy rims off ebay or from Light Bicycle Company and I get simple Novatech hubs into which I can swap "posh" ceramic bearings. I can swap parts around and all our spokes are now either Sapim CX Ray or Laser so sourcing spares is simple. Our most recent road wheels are a pair of wide carbon clinchers 35mm deep U shaped running 25mm Prop One tubeless Schwalbes and they've been great. Always true, extremely light and the best balanced wheels I've ever seen (no wobble if you hold the axles and spin them).

Sure I could've welded up a truing jig myself but for £70 including the 2 dial gauges I cant see the point - esp when you consider you're building wheels for bikes worth £000s? The tension gauge is at least as important anyway. There's no point in twiddling a few nipples to get a wheel straight if the tensions are all random as the wheel wont "stand" and you'll be re trueing for ever more.


Jig

http://www.planetx.co.uk/i/q/TOJWPWTS/jobsworth-pr...

Tension gauge

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/park-tool-spoke...

[BenGismo]

Celtic Dragon said:

A picture says a thousand words, if you follow the spoke from the top right down, you'll get to 2 crosses. Hopefully you'll be able to see the hub one I'm talking about

Edited by Celtic Dragon on Friday 28th October 22:08

^^^ That IS 3 cross

[Celtic Dragon]

Hub's been ordered.

[PGM]

I have a truing stand already and am keen to build up a set of wheels for my summer bike before spring.

If you had around £300 what hubs, spokes and rims would you use?

I'm around 80kg, bike is a Boardman 9.8 SLS carbon, I do a lot of climbing in my road riding so need to be Aluminium and TT on it in the summer. Tubeless compatible would be useful.

[G321]

PGM said:

I have a truing stand already and am keen to build up a set of wheels for my summer bike before spring.

If you had around £300 what hubs, spokes and rims would you use?

I'm around 80kg, bike is a Boardman 9.8 SLS carbon, I do a lot of climbing in my road riding so need to be Aluminium and TT on it in the summer. Tubeless compatible would be useful.

My option would be to go for H plus son Archetypes with cx Ray spokes and Novatec sl hubs. That'll get you a 1500g wheel set with tubeless compatibility

[PGM]

G321 said:

PGM said:

I have a truing stand already and am keen to build up a set of wheels for my summer bike before spring.

If you had around £300 what hubs, spokes and rims would you use?

I'm around 80kg, bike is a Boardman 9.8 SLS carbon, I do a lot of climbing in my road riding so need to be Aluminium and TT on it in the summer. Tubeless compatible would be useful.

My option would be to go for H plus son Archetypes with cx Ray spokes and Novatec sl hubs. That'll get you a 1500g wheel set with tubeless compatibility

Perfect, thank you.

[upsidedownmark]

Pretty sure the archetypes aren't tubeless, sorry - mine certainly aren't. (could be done with a stanz no-tubes kit I guess, but..)

[JustinF]

DT Swiss r460 are tubeless compatible, cheap and light.

There's a good comparison list here

http://dcrwheels.co.uk/custom-wheelsets/which-rim/

[timnoyce]

JustinF said:

DT Swiss r460 are tubeless compatible, cheap and light.

There's a good comparison list here

http://dcrwheels.co.uk/custom-wheelsets/which-rim/

I just built up a pair of these and they were great. Lovely rim to build with and excellent value for money. My build was DT 460DB rims, Novatec hubs and DT Competition spokes. Cost £170 which is a bargain for a tubeless wheelset that weighs circa 1600g!

[G321]

upsidedownmark said:

Pretty sure the archetypes aren't tubeless, sorry - mine certainly aren't. (could be done with a stanz no-tubes kit I guess, but..)

They are tubeless ready using stans tape. I have been running mine tubeless since I built them 2 years ago

[Celtic Dragon]

Thought I'd give a quick update. After a frustrating then enjoyable 2 hours last night I have a round spinny thing! Its not under tension yet and needs a true up, but I got it to within 1/4 inch of movement just by eye

I'll be taking it apart tonight and redoing it, as I released as I walked past it last night that I have laced it in 2 cross, not the 3 cross that I had planned, so the smug satisfied grin dissapeared of my face.
I'm sure I specced 3 cross when using the website, so either I'm missing something, the website is wrong or I've fluffed up as I'm sure I started trying to lace it 3 cross but the spokes weren't long enough so the hub ended up off centre (counted holes on the hub and rim in relation to the valve hole to get the first few spokes set in)