Soundproofing an Edwardian semi

Soundproofing an Edwardian semi

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cringle

Original Poster:

397 posts

185 months

Saturday 3rd December 2016
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Just had new neighbours move into the other side of our semi, previous couple had no kids and we never really heard them, but this new family have got two teenagers and we can suddenly hear a lot more, to the extent where we can make out words they're saying. It's an old 1910's building, large with cellars etc and I always thought these buildings had thick walls and never would have thought noise would be an issue but it's winding me right up, it's like living in a bedsit! I'm wondering if the large fireplaces are to blame? Is anyone aware of what kind of soundproofing measures can be taken? I'm quite happy to strip to brick and start again as otherwise seriously thinking of selling up despite being very happy with the house and area, and we've spent a small fortune getting it to how we like it...

RockyBalboa

768 posts

160 months

Saturday 3rd December 2016
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Assuming it's the party walls you want to prevent sound travel from, you could make an independent stud partition against the wall(s) with an air gap and acoustic slab insulation, all covered by two layers of acoustic plasterboard. It would eat a few inches from your room, however.

Blakeatron

2,514 posts

172 months

Sunday 4th December 2016
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^^ what he said - a new stud wall a few inches off the current, however can cause big problems and look rubbish atound fireplaces, cornices, skirtings.

To do properly is not going to be easy, cheap or quick

Sir Lord Poopie

212 posts

89 months

Sunday 4th December 2016
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cringle said:
it's winding me right up, it's like living in a bedsit!
Time to move. That's all there is to it.

Robertj21a

16,475 posts

104 months

Sunday 4th December 2016
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Friend had the same stud wall arrangement mentioned above and it's very effective - loses about 4" of space I reckon. No fireplaces to confuse issues though.

TA14

12,722 posts

257 months

Sunday 4th December 2016
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How many of the fireplaces on the dividing wall do you use?

roofer

5,136 posts

210 months

Sunday 4th December 2016
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TA14 said:
How many of the fireplaces on the dividing wall do you use?
This. We use a product on new build schools called R10 acoustic mat. Its epic

cringle

Original Poster:

397 posts

185 months

Sunday 4th December 2016
quotequote all
The twonks seemed to have calmed down today, hopefully will stay that way. Thanks for all the ideas, i don't really want to start building stud walls as the alcoves will look the wrong depth, but perhaps a membrane and adding a couple of inches will be imperceptible..? Had we not spent so much on the house I would seriously considering moving but we recently spent 23k on our damn kitchen and I'd cry if we had to go and start again with a new house

cptsideways

13,535 posts

251 months

Sunday 4th December 2016
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There is some dense fibreboard you can get, not too thick but very dense & ideal for this type of application I think

Like this http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/181593956277?_trksid=p20...

hyphen

26,262 posts

89 months

Monday 5th December 2016
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cringle said:
adding a couple of inches will be imperceptible..?
The size of the stud wall and the gap between that and the party wall is up to you. More the better, but if you do a 50mm stud, fill it with Rockwool,with a small gap to the party wall with two lots of 12.5" acoustic plasterboard then you are still in the few inches area.

I'm doing bedroom/living rooms in a few weeks. Currently have an older couple with no kids next door who are unlikely to move, but don't want disturb them when watching movies.

If stud wall is still not palatable, have a look at the m20 system, you stick 20mm rubber panels to the wall, then fix on two lots of plasterboard to that.

Cheib

23,112 posts

174 months

Monday 5th December 2016
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There are two types of noise

Building Borne Noise and Airborne Noise...the above solutions will (I think) help with the latter, the former will require more work i.e. If you can hear them walking on floors that will be being transmitted by the joists and the floors that are attached to them. That means that you'll need to isolate your living space from the party wall i.e. the joists need to have insulating material between them and the brick work...it's much,much harder to do.

Speaking from a bit of experience as had a problem with a neighbour (living above me in a conversion in a similar building) we had sound engineers in to try and sort the problem. Whatever solution you go with it's only as good as the contractor that's doing it...you need someone that knows what they're doing.


TA14

12,722 posts

257 months

Monday 5th December 2016
quotequote all
Cheib said:
There are two types of noise

Building Borne Noise and Airborne Noise...the above solutions will (I think) help with the latter, the former will require more work i.e. If you can hear them walking on floors that will be being transmitted by the joists and the floors that are attached to them. That means that you'll need to isolate your living space from the party wall i.e. the joists need to have insulating material between them and the brick work...it's much,much harder to do.

Speaking from a bit of experience as had a problem with a neighbour (living above me in a conversion in a similar building) we had sound engineers in to try and sort the problem. Whatever solution you go with it's only as good as the contractor that's doing it...you need someone that knows what they're doing.
Not too long ago I sat through a training/presentation on this issue. Quite a few people have had (sometimes expensive) work done with poor results because the works were not planned/designed properly and had to be redone frown

The other issue is that you are now sensitive to the issue. For example, if you did the above works and it halved the noise then visitors/house buyers might be happy with the result but you might not be because you're always listening to see how well the sound proofing is working.

Bearing in mind that moving (inc the loss of an expensive kitchen) would be a costly solution I'd get a firm of acoustic engineers to propose the best solutions available. http://www.association-of-noise-consultants.co.uk/... ?

davgar

347 posts

96 months

Monday 5th December 2016
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If building an independent stud wall are resilient bars required.
Would a metal frame be better than a wood frame.

thank you for any help

hyphen

26,262 posts

89 months

Monday 5th December 2016
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From what i've read, it is not strictly required to put in resilient bars, as the wall and stud wall are already decoupled, but I'm tempted to do it anyway so don't end up with 'what if I had' thoughts later. With metal/wood don't think one is better than the other.

Any experts about- your advise appreciated on my plan:

1) Re-block up all holes in the wall (i.e remove sockets)
2) Build a 50mm wood stud wall away from the wall, the small distance to be decided. Not touching the sides, and will be secured to floor and ceiling only.
3) Fill with rock wool, the 60kg/m variety and add resilient bars.
4) 19mm plasterboard (over 15mm as comes in the more manageable width of 600mm), a gap left around the sides and filled with acoustic sealant along with gaps between the boards.. Will cut into the plaster on the walls in each side, so the wall extends brick to brick.
5) 12.5mm acoustic plasterboard, staggered fit so covers the joints of the first. (possibly some Green glue first)
6) Relocate the sockets to surface, probably build alcove cupboards & shelving unit and place in there.

The plasterboard will be finishing lower down, near the joist level rather than at the floorboard level, if ceiling were plasterboard than would also have extended up there, but lathe & plaster so avoiding disturbing it.

I have original Plaster Cornice downstairs which I am going to attempt to remove, but may just have to get that part re-done. I can skim myself so cost other than the cornice will just be materials.

davgar

347 posts

96 months

Monday 5th December 2016
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i have been quoted ~£95 per sq meter for supply and fit of a independent stud wall ( without resiliant bar)
apprx 25 sqm wall. chimney breasts will be removed in advance.

will post spec when i receive written proposal.

how does this sound...