Shower and wonky tiles
Discussion
I have to put a glass shower wall up against this wall, which is wonkily tiled. The divergence between minimum and maximum tile protrusion is 13mm. I think the shower shop say that for the vertical metal strip you screw to the wall, they can give me one that is sort of adjusted to the undulations of the wall, but I can't pin them down on that.
My question is - if I get a straight vertical metal frame/holder, and fill in the gaps between that and the wonky wall, is 13mm too much for the flexible filler?
This shower has been the biggest test of my character in many a year...
My question is - if I get a straight vertical metal frame/holder, and fill in the gaps between that and the wonky wall, is 13mm too much for the flexible filler?
This shower has been the biggest test of my character in many a year...
I'm sorry to say but even from the picture that tiling looks pretty shocking.
I take it ripping it all off and starting again isn't going to go down well as a suggestion? I'd also highly recommend using some sort of aquapanel system for a shower enclosure, having a single sheet of material and no grout looks so much better and is much less likely to leak in future. We used Bushboard Nuance panels in our ensuite shower and I must say it's brilliant.
I take it ripping it all off and starting again isn't going to go down well as a suggestion? I'd also highly recommend using some sort of aquapanel system for a shower enclosure, having a single sheet of material and no grout looks so much better and is much less likely to leak in future. We used Bushboard Nuance panels in our ensuite shower and I must say it's brilliant.
You should get a 2 piece profile , one screws to the wall then the one on the glass slips inside it , though the way the wall leans away at the top you'll need to be careful when screwing the wall one on . Start by screwing at the middle then even out the deflection by fixing top to bottom turn by turn . You may just about get it to fit .
It's hugely unlikely a normal shower screen fitting would take up that much undulation.
I've done one recently where the wall curved maybe 5-6mm and I had to cut the screen bracket into a curve so it would sit into the wall bracket. It worked - just.
Chopping out the lot and starting over is likely to be the quick way to fix that.
I've done one recently where the wall curved maybe 5-6mm and I had to cut the screen bracket into a curve so it would sit into the wall bracket. It worked - just.
Chopping out the lot and starting over is likely to be the quick way to fix that.
Only viewing the pic on my phone but not sure I'm fully understanding the problem.
As said above, the door will be 2 parts. The glass door in a frame and 2 strips to attach to the wall that the frame then attaches to.
Are you saying the WALL is too wobbly or the tiles?
As long as the vertical edge of the tiled bit is straight it shouldn't matter. The silicone you apply will be a wobbly line but should end up being the same thickness bead.
As said above, the door will be 2 parts. The glass door in a frame and 2 strips to attach to the wall that the frame then attaches to.
Are you saying the WALL is too wobbly or the tiles?
As long as the vertical edge of the tiled bit is straight it shouldn't matter. The silicone you apply will be a wobbly line but should end up being the same thickness bead.
This side of the shower is not the door side, it's the return/solid glass wall. I have similar problems on the other side though, but with a variance of 7mm.
The walls are wonky (it's a 500 year old house) but the tiling has been done on hardiebacker board, and the shower frame will be screwed through the tiles. So my problem is with the tiles being wonky, not the wall.
It looks like I will have to get the tiling done again. Ugh.
The walls are wonky (it's a 500 year old house) but the tiling has been done on hardiebacker board, and the shower frame will be screwed through the tiles. So my problem is with the tiles being wonky, not the wall.
It looks like I will have to get the tiling done again. Ugh.
samdale said:
Only viewing the pic on my phone but not sure I'm fully understanding the problem.
As said above, the door will be 2 parts. The glass door in a frame and 2 strips to attach to the wall that the frame then attaches to.
Are you saying the WALL is too wobbly or the tiles?
As long as the vertical edge of the tiled bit is straight it shouldn't matter. The silicone you apply will be a wobbly line but should end up being the same thickness bead.
The tiles nearest the camera, on the 4th and 5th rows down from the top are pitched outward for some reason. It's attaching the wall-mounted strip to the tiles that's the problem because it won't touch most of the tiles. OP wants to plug the gaps with sealant.As said above, the door will be 2 parts. The glass door in a frame and 2 strips to attach to the wall that the frame then attaches to.
Are you saying the WALL is too wobbly or the tiles?
As long as the vertical edge of the tiled bit is straight it shouldn't matter. The silicone you apply will be a wobbly line but should end up being the same thickness bead.
I'd either - a) remove and replace the two worst tiles as a minimum or, b) investigate whether you could scribe the wall-mounted metal strip, which would at least allow the whole length of it to be in contact with the tiles, although it would n't do anything to disguise the fact the tiles are wonky. Given the shower looks to be under construction, I'd guess you have some spare tiles and I'd try option A first.
Risotto said:
The tiles nearest the camera, on the 4th and 5th rows down from the top are pitched outward for some reason. It's attaching the wall-mounted strip to the tiles that's the problem because it won't touch most of the tiles. OP wants to plug the gaps with sealant.
Yes, this.Risotto said:
I'd either - a) remove and replace the two worst tiles as a minimum or, b) investigate whether you could scribe the wall-mounted metal strip, which would at least allow the whole length of it to be in contact with the tiles. Given the shower looks to be under construction, I'd guess you have some spare tiles and I'd try option A first.
Right. And scribing is what the shower shop say they could do, but I suspect redoing the tiles is the better solution.montecristo said:
It looks like I will have to get the tiling done again. Ugh.
I didn't want to offend if you're doing the shower yourself, but if you've paid someone else to do the work I'd be having words with whoever is at fault. Is the problem solely down to wonky tiles, or is the substrate also wonky and the tiler has just tiled over its imperfections regardless? Risotto said:
I didn't want to offend if you're doing the shower yourself, but if you've paid someone else to do the work I'd be having words with whoever is at fault. Is the problem solely down to wonky tiles, or is the substrate also wonky and the tiler has just tiled over its imperfections regardless?
The substrate is a flat board. The problem is caused by the tiler using inconsistent depth of adhesive. I could, as Fawlty says, have a word. But I just want to move on and get the job finished by someone more competent.Risotto said:
The tiles nearest the camera, on the 4th and 5th rows down from the top are pitched outward for some reason. It's attaching the wall-mounted strip to the tiles that's the problem because it won't touch most of the tiles. OP wants to plug the gaps with sealant.
- Bold 1 - outwards as in away from the wall, pushed towards the right of the photo?
- Bold 2 - Why would you do that? Attach strip to the wall in front of but up against the tile edge. Silicone along tile edge/strip.
samdale said:
- Bold 1 - outwards as in away from the wall, pushed towards the right of the photo?
- Bold 2 - Why would you do that? Attach strip to the wall in front of but up against the tile edge. Silicone along tile edge/strip.
.
The usual way they mount is that you fit a U channel to the wall and a smaller U section fits inside it.
I don't think 13mm would be a problem assuming it's essentially straight, just on an angle.
If you mean when you hold a straight edge up to the wall there is a 13mm variance then you have no chance.
Although as others have said - for new work - that's unacceptable.
I don't think 13mm would be a problem assuming it's essentially straight, just on an angle.
If you mean when you hold a straight edge up to the wall there is a 13mm variance then you have no chance.
Although as others have said - for new work - that's unacceptable.
That'll be them new fangled roof style tiles....
Can a u shaped channel not be attached to the wall where the tiles end, then sealed against the edge of the tile with silicon sealer, then your enclosure goes flush into the U channel? (and I agree with the others, thats a pretty shabby tiling job if by a pro and recent).
Can a u shaped channel not be attached to the wall where the tiles end, then sealed against the edge of the tile with silicon sealer, then your enclosure goes flush into the U channel? (and I agree with the others, thats a pretty shabby tiling job if by a pro and recent).
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