New Canyon Endurace - love it but....
Discussion
Just about to get an Endurance 9.0. Looking at the new CF 9.0 SL or the older framed CF 9.0 Di2.
Im on an aluminum Fuji at the moment so both will be a lot lighter. I want something to do long rides on with maximum comfort.
Should I go for Di2? a mate has gone back to mechanical due to gears sticking.
What do people think?
Im on an aluminum Fuji at the moment so both will be a lot lighter. I want something to do long rides on with maximum comfort.
Should I go for Di2? a mate has gone back to mechanical due to gears sticking.
What do people think?
Cupra Black said:
Should I go for Di2? a mate has gone back to mechanical due to gears sticking.
What do people think?
Not sure what you mean by sticking? I have had no issues with Di2 apart from putting the bike down on some ice and that wasn't the bikes fault. Gears work smoothly just keep the drive train clean. Oh and make sure it is charged up. It is worth it but if you break stuff its more expensive to repair. What do people think?
ALawson said:
Not sure what you mean by sticking? I have had no issues with Di2 apart from putting the bike down on some ice and that wasn't the bikes fault. Gears work smoothly just keep the drive train clean. Oh and make sure it is charged up. It is worth it but if you break stuff its more expensive to repair.
He said sometimes the cables came loose and it stuck in a gear. TBH it looks like the frame with the DI2 is less aggressive so might be the best choice for me
A one off Strava segment really isn't going to tell you anything! All sorts of variables come into play, and this early in the season it's probably being affected by xmas pies.
If it feels slower, could be that it's not as stiff? Also you have a lot of stack height, will fill slower in sit up and beg mode - can't see your aero set-up assume it's more aggressive.
Even if the measurements are the same, I can't see 2 bikes feeling the same it's hugely subjective. I flip flop my ESX and Madone 9.9. Same set-ups, but totally different feel despite both being "nominally" aero.
If it feels slower, could be that it's not as stiff? Also you have a lot of stack height, will fill slower in sit up and beg mode - can't see your aero set-up assume it's more aggressive.
Even if the measurements are the same, I can't see 2 bikes feeling the same it's hugely subjective. I flip flop my ESX and Madone 9.9. Same set-ups, but totally different feel despite both being "nominally" aero.
Cupra Black said:
Just about to get an Endurance 9.0. Looking at the new CF 9.0 SL or the older framed CF 9.0 Di2.
Im on an aluminum Fuji at the moment so both will be a lot lighter. I want something to do long rides on with maximum comfort.
Should I go for Di2? a mate has gone back to mechanical due to gears sticking.
What do people think?
I've an Endurace SLX 8 with Di2 and the gears are just a world apart - especially the front. To be honest spending a huge chunk of money on another bike I needed just justify it with big upgrades so discs and Di2 ticked those boxes.Im on an aluminum Fuji at the moment so both will be a lot lighter. I want something to do long rides on with maximum comfort.
Should I go for Di2? a mate has gone back to mechanical due to gears sticking.
What do people think?
Not had any problems on 2 Di2 bikes so far. Only charged them up once when first bought and they are still on solid green (75% plus) a few hundred miles and a winter in the garage later.
To the OPs point, I find he bike faster than my old Defy - similar geometry but almost a couple of kilos lighter. Seems to both accelerate and hold its speed more easily, particularly when you get over 20mph.
I have taken a video of me and my position - it's at the bottom of this post.
I tweaked it again today, turning the bars up. I have quite a sore lower back which I have had for a couple of days and I suspect it comes from last week when I was riding it overstretched. The soreness is subsiding now, and this is despite me riding the bike each day this week, so I am hoping that by adjusting things I can achieve the desired result. It's a significant deep ache though and not one I have had for a long time. I have double and triple checked the numbers, and they definitely match. If anything the Canyon should now be less aggressive than the Bianchi. I feel more relaxed on it today and certainly less stretched out.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ef-dNeHTDP0
I tweaked it again today, turning the bars up. I have quite a sore lower back which I have had for a couple of days and I suspect it comes from last week when I was riding it overstretched. The soreness is subsiding now, and this is despite me riding the bike each day this week, so I am hoping that by adjusting things I can achieve the desired result. It's a significant deep ache though and not one I have had for a long time. I have double and triple checked the numbers, and they definitely match. If anything the Canyon should now be less aggressive than the Bianchi. I feel more relaxed on it today and certainly less stretched out.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ef-dNeHTDP0
Yup, which is kind of the intention, as remember this is an all year round, endurance long distance bike for me, not something I am going to competitve on.
Believe it or not this is less upright than I used to be, I have relaxed into it a bit as I used to be like a building on the seat but over the last few months comments from other riders have lured me into a more relaxed position.
Believe it or not this is less upright than I used to be, I have relaxed into it a bit as I used to be like a building on the seat but over the last few months comments from other riders have lured me into a more relaxed position.
Probably yes, what I am intending is that as long as this remains comfortable, I will slowly and surely edge the seat back by a few mm at a time and try and get further back over the cranks. I have only adopted this approach short term as I was seemingly too stretched out to start off with and am paying the price a bit now. Once comfy, I will elongate a bit more.
Did 30 miles today with a decent climb chucked in, the actual climb felt ok and over 7 minutes I was only 10 seconds behind my previous time up it and that was on my De Ribble Merak. So perhaps it is just "feel" after all. I maintain it still "feels" heavier than I expected, but maybe it was my expectations that were off the mark.
You shouldn't be adjusting the saddle position to change your reach. It has an important role in overall balance and how much weight ends up on your hands. As long as your sizing is not way off you should be fine tuning the reach with stem length.
If you set up the fit properly you will be able to get a much more aerodynamic position with the same or better comfort as the upright position you have now.
This is well worth a read:
http://www.peterwhitecycles.com/fitting.htm
If you set up the fit properly you will be able to get a much more aerodynamic position with the same or better comfort as the upright position you have now.
This is well worth a read:
http://www.peterwhitecycles.com/fitting.htm
Treb0r said:
You shouldn't be adjusting the saddle position to change your reach. It has an important role in overall balance and how much weight ends up on your hands. As long as your sizing is not way off you should be fine tuning the reach with stem length.
If you set up the fit properly you will be able to get a much more aerodynamic position with the same or better comfort as the upright position you have now.
This is well worth a read:
http://www.peterwhitecycles.com/fitting.htm
What he said.If you set up the fit properly you will be able to get a much more aerodynamic position with the same or better comfort as the upright position you have now.
This is well worth a read:
http://www.peterwhitecycles.com/fitting.htm
You need to set the saddle fore/aft so that when your crank is forward and horizontal the small bone below the right of your knee cap is directly over (or +/- a little bit to personal fit) the pedal axle.
This is known as knee over pedal and can be set easily with a plumb line. Do not deviate too much from that unless you want to start bringing knee issues into the equation.
You also need to set your cleats in a similar manner, the ball off your foot should be over the centre line of the pedal axle (+/-).
Have you got a turbo trainer? It's easier to do on that, plus a side on video on that gives away much more than 1 second of you passing through the frame.
The bike just looks way too short/small for you. Looks like you could go further back saddle wise and also much longer stem wise, but if you had comfort issues and this was the only comfortable position then fair enough and stick with it.
Being in a aerodynamic/lower position shouldn't be any more uncomfortable to be honest as long as you have your set-back setup correctly for you. At the end of the day pro's do some ridiculous hours day in day in some really 'aggressive positions' and I certainly find my longer/lower bikes far more comfortable on my body than my more upright commuter.
Being in a aerodynamic/lower position shouldn't be any more uncomfortable to be honest as long as you have your set-back setup correctly for you. At the end of the day pro's do some ridiculous hours day in day in some really 'aggressive positions' and I certainly find my longer/lower bikes far more comfortable on my body than my more upright commuter.
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