Cadence snobbery?
Discussion
I've no idea what mine is but I think it's very much an individual thing, what works best for each rider. Look at the TdF climbs - you get some people pushing a high gear (low cadence) and others spinning a low gear.
There must be kit out there to allow you to measure your personal "most-efficient" cadence. Probably expensive kit though
Edit for typos.
There must be kit out there to allow you to measure your personal "most-efficient" cadence. Probably expensive kit though
Edit for typos.
Edited by ewenm on Thursday 27th January 13:43
Interesting that there's such a difference between individuals' cadence comfort zones.
IMO ewenm's point about finding ones optimum efficient cadence is a good one. That should be what dictates our cadence...not some cycling magazine expert, or cycling folklore stating that 'high cadence spinning = good'
BTW my Aussie mate who is telling me I need to increase my cadence, is about 5 foot 5 inches in height.
I wonder if leg length is a factor???
IMO ewenm's point about finding ones optimum efficient cadence is a good one. That should be what dictates our cadence...not some cycling magazine expert, or cycling folklore stating that 'high cadence spinning = good'
BTW my Aussie mate who is telling me I need to increase my cadence, is about 5 foot 5 inches in height.
I wonder if leg length is a factor???
Going slightly OT anyone else use Heart & Cadence to determine gear selection, over the winter trying to vary the training on the rollers, I've been trying and keep the HR under 180bpm and the cadence at 90-100 and then drop up or down the cogs as required generally around 165-170 on the BPM.
OneDs said:
Going slightly OT anyone else use Heart & Cadence to determine gear selection, over the winter trying to vary the training on the rollers, I've been trying and keep the HR under 180bpm and the cadence at 90-100 and then drop up or down the cogs as required generally around 165-170 on the BPM.
That is what my Aussie mate does, and is telling me to do in order to increase my cadence. (Yes despite being summer in Oz, he is sitting in the garage on his turbo a lot. Too humid outside you see!)I am disputing the need to increase my cadence, as I feel comfortable and quick with it at 85.
Maybe its because my small chainring is a 42 tooth, and when I last cycled with a club, anyone on not on the big ring was considered a wimp, unless going up a >10% incline.
86, I have been using a blackburn cycle computer, a cycle ops turb trainer and a wristwatch heart monitor thing wrapped round the bars, seems to work ok!.
I am comfortabel at that cadence so use the releavant gears to match it whilst out on the trails and roads, not into the competitive element, just enjoy being out on two wheels and it not costing me a bean!
I am comfortabel at that cadence so use the releavant gears to match it whilst out on the trails and roads, not into the competitive element, just enjoy being out on two wheels and it not costing me a bean!
Get Karter said:
OneDs said:
Going slightly OT anyone else use Heart & Cadence to determine gear selection, over the winter trying to vary the training on the rollers, I've been trying and keep the HR under 180bpm and the cadence at 90-100 and then drop up or down the cogs as required generally around 165-170 on the BPM.
That is what my Aussie mate does, and is telling me to do in order to increase my cadence. (Yes despite being summer in Oz, he is sitting in the garage on his turbo a lot. Too humid outside you see!)I am disputing the need to increase my cadence, as I feel comfortable and quick with it at 85.
Maybe its because my small chainring is a 42 tooth, and when I last cycled with a club, anyone on not on the big ring was considered a wimp, unless going up a >10% incline.
I'm 6' 2" and right with you there but on 170mm cranks, hit 205 back in 2007 Get Karter said:
What is your comfortable cadence?
Aussie mate has been saying he tries to train on turbo at 100 rpm to improve his cycling.
Is this really necessary?
My cadence is comfortable in the low to mid 80s.
What is your genuine cadence (not what you think it ought to be)?
I think it's easier for most riders to use a higher cadence on a turbo than on the road simply because there's no bends, braking or other distractions, you just get on and go. My turbo sessions are generally 90-110 depending on the resistance I set, although the bulk of it is around 100 and although I can do 120+ I don't see any value for me personally other than bragging rights. Aussie mate has been saying he tries to train on turbo at 100 rpm to improve his cycling.
Is this really necessary?
My cadence is comfortable in the low to mid 80s.
What is your genuine cadence (not what you think it ought to be)?
My road cadences vary quite a lot, and discounting steep hills they usually range from 80-110 with most riding in the 85-95 range. It depends on the terrain; if it's twisty roads then it's easier to accelerate with lower gears so I spin more but if it's a long straight then I find tend to drop cadence unless I make a deliberate effort to keep it high.
Everybody's different. The current fashion seems to be to spin, which is less likely to cause strain on unfit muscles. I'm pretty sure I remember reading some lab report which showed that lower cadences (70-80) were more efficient on muscle & oxygen usage, but then you have a peloton spinning away at 100+. Just go with what suits you best.....
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